© 2007 Institute of Current World Affairs
The Institute awards long-term fellowships to develop a deep understanding of an issue, country, or region outside the US and to share that understanding with a wider public.
Institute of Current World Affairs - Home Page

Below is a hobbled text version of a PDF document.
In order to read the actual document please click the link below and register if necessary.
(One-time registration is free and very quick.)
Read article

5/1/1990 - Cultural Re-entry by Arthur Getz

NOT FOR PUeLiCATON WITH OUTWRITER CONSENT INSTITUTEOFCURRENTWORLDAFFAIRS AAG Cultural_ Re_ entrF Tokyo May Peter Bird Martin Executive Director Institute Current World Affairs Wheelock House West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 Dear Peter My return Japan There moments cross cultural consternation temptations sweeping assessments Japanese bureaucratic system portentious message spells future US Japanese relations This thrill I resisted I worked The first setback shortly after landing Narita airport I anticipated usual routine getting immigration officer having usual courteous exchange Japanese gentle surprise language facility polite This unexpected snare uncomfortable pause goodbye little become existence Japan gaikokuJin torokucho alien registration booklet In stamped fingerprint civil libertarians photograph respectable professional looking English teacher various statuses statii record struggles I through distinguish myself apart ordinary tourist secure permission extend visits change status evolutionary ascendant splendor include Researcher I attain I enviable special status which spouses Japanese nationals other exclusive categories Aliens qualify My extended visit US forgetful struggle apparently I gotten expired March I precaution getting Japanese embassy Washington I recently acquired Exit Permit multi entry variety I discover airport inspection counter extend limit It might I going start again All medals different status numbers I proud battle scars disappear little booklet holding behind glass seperating Arthur Getz Institute fellow examinlng Issues agriculture human values cross cultural perspective Since theInstituteofCurrentWorldAffairs theCrane Rogers Foundation hasprovidedlong termfellowships enable outstanding young adults outside United States write about international areas issues Endowed bythelateCharlesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations YOU My spinning fought years continuous residence Those waits Tokyo Immigration Bureau rituals hundreds other hapless souls Was nothing Must I start I close Nirvana Visas Permanent Resident status years seven process Had I actually continuity residential status Later Setagaya Ward office primary repository specific details Japanese government required triplicate I wanted appeal Reason I meeting continuity requirements having country I spoke clerk sought understanding matter airport oiciai might fully appreciate No I duplicate whole procedure again erasing sorts links including insurance numbers account references I continue expect other official wisdom views hopes permanent residence which fundamentally wishes being avoid hassle visiting another immigration bureau again My troubles return Tokyo compounded agony several hours after getting Kazari Regina latter recognize worse still looked little scared The former terribly supportive saying I I everything I could think little finally succeeded familiar The morning wereoon train Kyoto Nara order Kazar could attend wedding childhood friend I Regina companion despite serious sight seeing including Daibutsu temple The present structure built though thirds original eighth century temple still largest wooden ucture world houses enormous Great Buddha Nara another world record holder bronze statuary If visual reference farmer philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka message about futility humanity search complete knowledge these dreams scientists mirages nothing dancing Lord Buddha would image I wanted majestic temples Nara while enough compensation cultural I af1icted The exquisite joinery craftsmanship temples heart ancient capital arrow straight central historic uniqueness Japan In temple gardens azaleas bloom May breeze blowing unseen chime completed picture But memorable moment ramen lunch together where Regina stood restaurant chair showed tricks learned noodles slurping wiggling tilted We laughed freedom naughtiness waitresses watch deepened being again In I enough again transported Old Japan Kazari kimono friend formal wedding small sample feels recognized child With unusual dress white powder Regina startled fearful being I temples Nara centuries ritual green harvesting about later What remained modern Tokyo whole process getting household effects motor transport ships through customs The I loaded Rocinante handmade those followed other exploits named Madame Butterfly apparently whole fleet named after famous operas Glad I I missed Faust Madame arrive about necessary papers together I preliminary inquiries about would required I Washington D C given advice official JETRO official Japanese export authority simple He New York belonged automobile section I little cause doubt advice sound I could temporarily export under tourist status special agreement governing motor vehicles abroad would Japanese duties inspection These collectively called shaken annual biannual cycles They notoriously expensive constitute arguably significant tariff trade barrier Because subject Japanese included appears surface But reality retrofitting which vehicles official standards letter expensive course Japanese manufacturers these requirements subsequent changes relatively easily incorporated manufacturing process Foreign manufacturers could endeavor tailor models Japanese market probably large scale demand arises The inspections involve minor details color lights their position involve entire exhaust emissions system The rules engine gross weight vehicle other items For example since vehicle propane stove I would bumped extra expensive category frequent inspections shaken payments Kazari recently advertisement magazine article about recently orted foreign polluting Japan I suspect article deals coming through diesel because Japanese emissions requirements standard vehicles expensive difficult probably cause article attributes trend toward importing diesel models At source comfort I official information about being forgoe shaken business The nightmare would ensue dlscover worked Pacific either commercial mport aency Customs Bureau Ministry Transport US Embasssy Japan Automobile Federation exemption The difference between little known exemption usual treatment order three thousand dollars unpredictable amount weeks months delay Much spent telephonin visitin various persons offices friends connection System experience importin vehicle What probably rustratin aspec consistent account involved could found Kazari patronizingly reprimanded office phone Japanese office JETRO havin better investigation required prior beinnin enterprise Enough twist steel I spare conoundln details because eventually story better A aptly translates island Ministry Transport first official New York talkin about became beacon remainder odyssey Despite tension confusion I began unoldin contact sport learn provided right spirit safety equipment AKainst advice wiser decided handle entire ocess ourselves instead hirin import aKent Besides savin about clear would professional about special exemption would invisible whole subterranean labyrinth rules processes disorder intrigue While I searching wider meaning I happened attend presentation friend recent meeting Tokyo Businessman Club subject Japan US relations Bill Kelly resident Japan lecturer Sanno Junior College Tokyo writes speaks publicly themes inter culttal communications He suggested present level conflict deeper conventional focus trade political issues probed psychological cultural factors Reviewing relationship light proposed pattern recurring episodes America civilizing mission clash Japanese cultural identity building objectives My humble struggle bureacracy wonder whether something operating level beyond factual realm procedure requirement I began utility exploring psychological cultural assumptions behind frustration distress Was individualistic cultural background political socialization leading expect entirely different things bureacrats necessary proper Toward presentation Kelly proposed there Japanese American writers beginning values could involve borrowing other culture offer At least careful comparison might variety current fashion bashing other One author mentioned US Robert BelIah HABITS OF THE HEART written develop sense community supremacy dividualistic ethic rediscover American communitarian tradition His America lacks clear public philosophy which might nation sense direction purpose The corresponding Japanese voices change writers Ohmae Ken demanding there public debate government should rational explanations policies relinquish monopoly information sounds individualism Bill suggested I during import opera I being subjected capricious authority because there obviously contradictory information coming which dramatically different consequences Moreover rational explanations stuff democratic participatory expectations scare commodity But I right assuming these universal cherished values I strain thought unless I sufficiently obsequious bureaucrat I might treatment I deserve Substitute properly respectful sufficiently obsequious another perspective problem Moreover I simplify process rather intermediate steps I detest seems inefficient extraneous numerous visits individual windows stamping filling operations I great patiently waiting lines parts process either But these vital necessary clerks organizationally favorable authorities specialize aspect problem while sending individual after getting favor around counter When there question completely clear accountability resolution other window office independent systematic decision making But consult asstme personal authority oriented values At worst I think process fixed simpletons incapable seeing things wider boxes forms certainly My Way To would treat special because I might typical Here I perceive matter One recurring elements system recourse behind scenes decision making It entered Japanese lexicon keisu keisu Only those elements would successful presentation keisu always apparent clearly explained My expectation bureacracy provides explanations particulars I I comply avoid regulations Theirs I provide necessary information await decision And I understand I sometimes expect fully participate As matter gaijin developed strategy sometimes succeed escaping having comply rules This exceptionalism sometimes explained Gaijln yowai means literally being outsiders foreigners aliens Among friends cultural marriages topic controversy challenged Japanese spouse being abusive customary hospitality gaijln spouse small reward constantly being regarded outsider Most agree doesn within In actuality I suspect pragmatic solution would otherwise result con1ict flare besides saving might dealing those schooled subtleties hierarchical society complete acceptance authority My Latin experiences sometimes expect different things I imagine typical encounter window clerk police officer proceed How Japanese Brazil manage I wonder It impossible moment difficulty overcome appeal common strain under anonymous impersonal Regulation shrugging seeming arbitrariness liberation especially accompanied small reward official sensitivity peculiar conditions How differently sympathy struggles technicality parking meter expired proceed In Japan recipe completely different Having mountain different forms stamped signed various related offices concerned basic relisite And native right attitude either esmanship combination poker mountaineering willingness consequences sheer unquestioning obedience either patience It foreigners reminded minor incident visits customs offices showed natives might As I seated Regina displayed remarkable patience office decor officialdom I watched young Japanese women Customs Inspection Clearance Office When discovered would intermediate customs office another location mistake assuming could somehow short circuit process rather bluntly asked young customs official telephone strong reaction It built minor scene obvious indignation sides counter The following another finally successful visit office I young pried curiously reaction these impudents Some people understand system works Soo indeed Received Hanover