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10/30/2005 - Lebanon’s Twilight Zone by Andrew J. Tabler

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Joseph Battat Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler Sharon F Doorasamy Peter Geithner Gary Hartshorn Katherine Roth Kono Cheng Li Peter Bird Martin Dasa Obereigner David Z Robinson Carol Rose John Spencer Edmund Sutton HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A AJT MIDDLE EAST Andrew Tabler Institute Fellow based Damascus Beirut studying Lebanese affairs Syrian reform Lebanon Twilight Zone By Andrew Tabler OCTOBER BEKAA VALLEY Lebanon They asleep I whispered climbed rocky trail toward Popular Front Liberation Palestine General Command PFLP GC Bekaa Valley village Sul Yacoub It I Ahead front consisting metal turnpike flags Lebanon other variant Palestine Liberation Organization PLO That Then right armed fighters appeared sharp stone ridge about meters above Then seconds later We journalists colleague Reuters blurted hands cupped around mouth project voice We Mamnouh Forbidden fighter exclaimed ridge Get We quickly turned around darted toward vehicle wheel drive Nissan The before Lebanese contractor hills another Palestinian group Fatah Intifada We weren taking chances What asked another colleague Times London pointing black running along ground toward thing pointed sticking rocks My God IED Improvised Explosive Device Times correspon exclaimed precisely I thing myself I pulled snapshot How I thought Don photos correspondent exclaimed We happy We piled Nissan nervously reversed About later I looked This however about front green Kefraya Wine Chateau while glasses Le Nouveau tucking Filet Mignon This Bekaa Valley breadbasket Roman Empire considered Washington hornets terrorists destroy Israel rolling American influence Levant world A visit Bekaa seems confirm reputation The Shiite resistance group political party Hizbollah Palestinian militant groups Fatah Intifadah PFLP GC The Bekaa produces world choice nabis increasingly wines regional centre counterfeiting smugglers would given Pierre Jean Lafitte their money Bizarrely visit entirely different picture Following tumultuous period during Lebanese Civil War which bloody battles between Syrian Israeli forces Bekaa internationally famous valley seemed revert paradise vineyards chateaux Roman ruins stunning views could easily double Garde Eden Today matter largely ignored Lebanon bearing brunt change Syria forced withdrawal troops security personnel following February assassination former Lebanese Prime Minister Rafik Hariri As summer Syrian trade blockade AJT enough Bekaa economic depression international community pressuring govern current Prime Minister Fouad Siniora imple Security Council Resolution which demands disarming militias Lebanon The Lebanese Army which during Syria occupation Lebanon virtually absent Bekaa surrounded Pal estinian militia camps valley force compliance While crisis seems avoided being these tough times Bekaa people noticeably tightlipped making valley another unknown factor changing power equations tween Lebanon Syria bears closer attention months years ahead To valley unknown I several trips there months variety companions attitudes motives behind tight lippedness assassination atmosphere affected business there Geography demographics politics Getting around Valley issues faces starts contoured Some kilometers ranging kilometers Bekaa plural Arabic bukaah which means place stagnant water swamp bordered Lebanon Mountain range West Anti Lebanon Mountains East It bottom since Great Rift Val extends Mozambique southern Turkey But northern border largely considered Lebanese Syrian frontier south Bekaa kilometers south Lake Qaraoun The largest Lebanon governorates adminis trative zones Bekaa roughly portioned three parts The first includes governorate capital Zahle Damascus Road Chtaura which collec tively serve commercial centre Valley All points north cluster considered Upper Bekaa while points south considered lower West Bekaa It might surprise Bekaa Lebanon diverse areas villages Shiites Sunni Muslims Druze Maronite Greek Orthodox Ar menian minority Christians spotting guably beautiful areas Arab World A drive through Bekaa gives testament Not could Shiite village located stone throw Sunni Christian something common throughout Lebanon inside villages themselves common Mus women fully veiled walking alongside dresse bright habits white The capital Zahle overwhelmingly Christian while valley whole Muslim majority During Ottoman times Bekaa considered Bilad Sham The Lands Damascus administered today Syrian capital Following First World War French Mandate thorities controlled Syria decided attach Bekaa formerly Mutassarifate Mount Leba privileged administrative region Ottoman Empire aside Christians Druze entity Greater Lebanon Syria Leba struggling control Bekaa since While Beirut nominal political control valley Syria economic cultural influence every where Today Chtaura still dominates Syrian finance trade people Bekaa speak thing closer Syrian dialect Arabic Lebanese During 1970s Bekaa suddenly thrust politi storm virtually detached Beirut coast Following PLO defeat King Hussein Jordan during called Black September where Yasser Arafat tried overthrow Hussein Syrian assistance organization militant wings established camps Lebanon tinue fight against Israel When Palestinians their muscle throughout Lebanon including setting checkpoints other activities virtually created state within state Lebanon Christians strike Civil quickly ensued lasted bloody years without clear victor In Lebanese President Sulieman Franjieh Maronite Christian invited Syrian Leba hostilities In Lebanon Christians looked Sunni Muslim dominated Syria something should contained avoided costs But November Syrian Defense Minister Hafez Assad carried ousting Salah Jadid Now Syria ruled Alawite Mus minority fringe Shiite Islam there could trusted serve counterweight Palestinians For years Syria essentially annexed Bekaa Valley Its established headquarters Riyaq former French military intelligence services Armenian Christian nated Bekaa Anjar When Israel invaded Leba sleepy Bekaa suddenly became world attention bloody battles ensued between Syrian Israeli forces In July Syria MIG aircraft Israel three aircraft latter destroy Syria Surface Air SAM missile batter valley The Syrian repel Israeli advance ground however After civil Syria occupied Mount Lebanon Shuf Mountains points south Sidon Anjar became Syria occupation western neighb While ended Damascus struggle Israel Israel meter occupation along border Leba touched West Bekaa To resistance south Damascus sponsored Hizbollah proxy militia drive Israelis Lebanon Palestinian militant groups allowed bases eastern West Central Bekaa which theoretically guarded historical invasion route south Damascus Despite Israel pulled Lebanon May Syria permitted groups continuing resistance their A border dispute Sheba Farms square Israel insists Syrian terri therefore still occupies Syria Leba insist Lebanese territory resistance groups based Bekaa business This situation completely changed follow assassination Rafik Hariri Valentine Day Internationa pressure forced Syria withdraw forces April creating power vacuum filled Resistance concept those carrying resistance activi Hizbollah example Lebanon Prime Minster Siniora government first holds isterial position Its activities touched Palestinian groups another however Their camps Sheba Farms region PFLP GC chief Ahmed Jabril based Damascus suddenly placed group tivities Lebanon question The international community coals confrontation In annual report UN Security Council October UN Special Representative Terje Roed Larsen praised Lebanon carrying elections AJT Syria drawing forces Lebanon slammed Siniora government doing enough disband militias Hizbollah Palestin extend government authority entire country The Bekaa Valley Southern Lebanon In report Larsen highlighted intelligence reports outlining influx weaponry personnel Syria these groups In response Beirut Hizbollah through national dialogue including various schemes include militia Lebanese Army lated contingent For Palestinians different story Beirut Lebanese Army Bekaa force surround camps investigate issue encourage Palestinians return their refugee camps According local residents security analysts Palestinians tunnels hillsides created bunkers house hundreds fighters large weapons caches Given camps close proximity Syria easily supplied Damascus Caught Middle Today people Bekaa caught middle three political crises likely continue foreseeable future Beirut efforts extend security control Valley Syria blockade Leba earlier stringent border inspec tions between Bekaa Syria proper They expect fallout possible sanctions Syria result UN inquiry death Rafik Hariri investigator Devlet Mehlis AJT So sults positive Bekaa farmers lions dollars their produce rotting Syrian border summer AJT Trade merce Syria shops banks Chatura decimated Tourism Lebanon including visits famous Roman ruins Baalbek percent figures clude Syrians Palestinians Last least revenue producing smuggling northern Bekaa Syria reported interrupted overzealous Syrian security agents All these things discovered means Google search nothing beats personal I traveled assortment companions several reasons First basic security concerns environment buddy system Second I wanted select colleagues either Lebanese could somehow subtract attention American poking around Bekaa specialized certain movements Bekaa notably Hizbollah Pal estinians What I found earth shattering firmed media reports But I learned lives simple people affected politics hunker little storms Just Washington plans handle these folks deeper concerns tually intend anyone guess The Damascus Road Adventures always start something familiar branch unknown Years covering Damascus Beirut Oxford Business Group Economist Intelligence Unit meant I mately acquainted Damascus Road including shops drivers moneychangers beggars So I expedition grape harvest Lebanese companion venturesome sociology student Lebanese University She I follow noses Wild East Lebanon Descending Chtaura Dar Baydar point Beirut Damascus Road decided cheese pizza Chtaurama Chtaura known stops doubles super market supplies Syrian customers basement As general Christian villages Bekaa often small hamlets hanging sides The applied environs Chtaura Zahle Chtaurama market Chris owned often members other gious sects As I stepped counter cashier usual weekend between Beirut Damascus Syrian driver looked prised middle Ahleen Welcome You early Yep Just going drive round It beautiful during harvest I noticed usual driver along others sitting nearby table Ahleen How I asked Very driver I forth Lebanon every Damascus Now I lucky three times What problem Are Lebanese afraid Syria No other around Ali regular driver Syrians afraid being attacked Plus goods available Syria people buying instead It Ali statement confirmed Syrian trade reforms beginning impact Over months Syrian government started lifting import restrictions thousands goods formerly obtained smuggled Lebanon The attributed assassination external pressure Syria still pending Association Agreement EU I ordered sandwich drink compan receipt walked counter Above Dewar whiskey accented I order through sliding I hungry noticed wondered where Five minutes later sandwich could looking pizza sandwich But I The opened window below Where asked America I answered taking How these Its depressed around months answered It started assassination better again Not riders How I asked About months I nearby There these I I unemployment economic opportunities would dominate conversations I going Bekaa The always considered something backwater brightest migrating Leba cities coast But Hariri assassination dealt heavy valley econo families Lebanon Syria where political instability resulting UN investigation implicating ranking Syrians perhaps ranking Lebanese could arise If America comes Lebanon bring grams asked I I answered It could But could linked disarming Hizbollah Oh furrowing And popped through window What I thought referring recent reports Lebanon would receive considerable sistance repaying massive billion return fully complying Security Council Resolution But I I companion started When decided another table avoid beaming through window I suddenly noticed standing behind leaning against As I caught sight someone called Ali blink Seemed someone another sandwich order Damn I thought Maybe wanted When Ali popped started chatting customer front lunch counter I couldn resist snapping photo For reason despite light flash Ali friend looked quizzical expressions I pretended I taking photo companion As leave Ali looked signal about The movement looks something holding imaginary softball turning outward around wrist Ma Nothing I answered smiling I watch taking photos I thought Next I wanted Masnaa Lebanese border village immigration gateway Syria I reports business result Hariri affair I thought would interesting looking gifts route Syria We first entered store selling linen still their shipping boxes All Far East The bright Chinese characters boxes impression Chinese restaurant without course pagodas As attendant I stroll through essentially warehouse After minutes dialogue companion about sheets would owner suddenly appeared carrying masbaha prayer beads He pered something attendant turned companion retail sales As walked I dered wholesale around first place I started realize going harder I thought In stores Masnaa attendant would mobile phone puter openly admitted business decimated Syrian customs strict They allow computers mobile phone boxes As I exited wearing light derby yellow shirt holding fistful Syrian Pounds U S Dollars Euros approached Saraf change asked What I asked Fifty point I meant Syrian pounds dollar Wow I The Syrian pound depreciat pretty quickly Where customers I months Yeah replied Suddenly shadow beard appeared whispered moneychanger Then turned Inta sahafi Are journalist I I Shuf See moneychanger quick smile walked So I stopped number Lebanese banks Chtaura managers service Syria Despite being pleasantly received banks BLOM BEMO Soci G three managers refused about Syrian business More silence Later I phoned banker friend manages joint venture Syrian banks Lebanese volvement going Banks Chtaura suffering banking foreign exchange reforms Syria friend People their deposits major banks switched private branches Syria This started before political crises between countries since Hariri killed business Damascus Chtaura polar opposite Viticulture Smuggling I sharp right Chtaura check reports Syrian laborers being prevented taking annual grape harvest Lebanon ancient industry booming which Bekaa grape growers years Well known Bekaa labels Chateau Musar Ksara Kefraya being challenged chateaux Most these enterprises central West Bekaa I decided visit Lebanon vineyards Massaya Working known Tanail Property north Damascus Road disbanded Palestinian Fatah Intifada bases Massaya owners Ghosn family become regional mavericks Starting Arak grape based anise vored drink rough equivalent Greek Uzo Ghosns produce arguably Lebanon through slick marketing known wines Some percent their bottles destined I stopped recommendation photogra friend Norbert Schiller another friend author Michael Karam together table Wines Lebanon first cated entirely Lebanese When I asked Norbert which vintner could quick unscheduled visit Ramzi Ghosn In Ramzi typical Lebanese business polyglot stylish macho But after conversation glass office impression quickly It harvest after testing grapejuice first floor Massaya Chateau He agreed siness I began asking questions about Syrian migrant pickers Ramzi quickly known politics Our sales linked political ation We affected slump local market since exports focusing international gional market The countries Syria Egypt But I Damascus I Really asked Right shelf Yes restaurants There customs stamps bottles I surprised someone living close Syria obviously Damascus What about pickers I asked Has politi situation affected their availability Not I answered looking riously They seasons throughout Tur Lebanon Syria What affecting harvest anything Ram We change schedule accommodate their schedules It something I totally missed The month Ramadan follows lunar calendar moves backwards Gregorian calendar Could I I asked It would difficult answered If I something about minutes Would planting North Bekaa Ras Baalbek Sure I We going anyway After about quarter chateau following Ramzi optioned colored Dodge Ram pickup As might expected Ramzi drove small Peugeot keeping The drive Ras Baalbek I never In I north Baalbek during Lebanon Along trucks packed Syrian pickers their kuffayeh headscarves flapping could going They working after When arrived called vineyard I surprised hectares planted cuttings years As Ramzi truck cigar The reminded moneychanger Masnaa As walked through small vines I struck breathtaking around Hermel predominately Shiite Muslim nearly sight distance Closer Ras Baalbek predominately Greek Catholic Christian Maronites Shiite Muslims mixed Around countryside mixture barren earth mixed tumbleweeds Ramzi began acting scene straight The Godfa without course violence You I coming walking along cigar When I stopped photo I sense wanted photos along These fields perimental I anyone about Then bring I thought If Roman times covered vines But climate changed Look earth With metal ground It wouldn budge So plant I asked Surely there other places Bekaa closer chateau Because answered Just woman I wanted heavenward I Nietzsche saying What destroy makes stronger My Lebanese colleague blushed You plant vines anywhere They average But suffers special takes around And really It sounded being oenologist I guessed proof pudding speak would bottle sometime distant future As goodbyes I asked Ramzi about people living around these parts Orchards smuggling They float goods Assi River Syria But I doubt about Driving I began frustrated How could beautiful place light vistas human endeavors Descending mountain Ras Baalbek field running toward Hermel After about minutes strange monument appeared nearby As closer looked pencil buried earth sharpened stick about meters above ground This Pyramid Hermel ancient unknown origin which Hermel famous Compared Lebanon Roman ruins nothing But lacks makes character It Greco Roman believed Syrian perhaps monument hunting On faces jagged reliefs being attacked wolves lions bears All rounded spears arrows It estimated years seems Whatever unknown origin subject matter creeps remind always From pyramid possible Bekaa Valley northern mouth which Syrian frontier Homs It monument looking relief Lebanon becomes understand smuggling route For exception Maysalun Anti Lebanon mountain range which today features Beirut Damascus there other passages Syria patrolled either government As monument companion thirsty So I We spotted Assi River below around waterside restaurants umbrel advertising Laziza Beer We stopped Two colas please I asked atten The restaurant deserted When drinks while companion I asked people living Hermel Farming trade I there smuggling I Just looking A second later walked Yet again I getting shoul A before Lebanese paper reported Rahbe village about kilometers northwest Hermel Syrian Is lamist extremist group Jund Sham Soldiers Dam ascus distributed leaflets saying anyone erating United States Lebanon would slaughtered Hermel medium sized predominately Shiite Muslim scattering Sunnis Maronite Christians While looks agricultural surface cording legend Leb Syria through these areas television washing machine chased Lebanon smuggled Syria The works involves little After product contact smugglers After looking invoice product smuggler gives exactly The product taken A later shows Damascus where smuggler Lebanon freight charges By reached Hermel sundown night rapidly running I stopped rections alongside Two Maronite walking along hillside Ahleen How I asked Just going straight right How these I asked Slow answered walked I shouldn asked No talking pecially foreigners Everywhere Hermel people could strolling along roads sitting front shops Not getting could I mental resolution another ICWA Let Bekaa ritory cover Baalbek Hizbollah Hashish Here I should moment about Baalbek Hizbollah A majority Shiite Sunnis Maronite Chrtistians Greek Catholics Baalbek spectacular Roman ruins region Until 1990s place tourist track since served major center Hizbollah It according telligence reports American hostages during Lebanon Civil War imprisoned often horrid condi tions Iranian Pasdaran external intelligence While tensions lessened considerably tourists flock droves large posters Ayatollah Khomeini still landscape alongside murals Hasan Nasrallah Hizbollah charismatic chief Hizbollah sprang various Shiite groups ported Iran during Lebanese Civil War Some those groups carried terrorism kidnapping paigns against Americans during It history quite blurry According Hizbollah those factions carried hijackings kidnappings other attacks American targets marginalized According Washington which argues party fruit poisoned Hizbollah remains terrorist organization What Washington question Baalbek ruins stupendous The Phoenician temple dedicated Baal later renamed Heliopolis Greeks Ro Following Alexander Great conquest frequented Roman emperors Pompey Julius Ceasar latter founded colony named Julius It became premier Roman province Syria Today Baalbek known massive columns remain Temple Jupiter which stands original Baal Temple Adjacent temple West Temple Bacchus which misnomer since archeologists determined temple actually dedicated Venus Astarte Built second century AD arguably beautiful Roman temples world Lebanon viticulturalists claim Baachus Dionysos Greeks Thracian represents intoxicating power social benefi influences Supposedly promoter civilization The breathtaking Roman ruins Baalbek arguably Middle East peace Baachus fertility volving around resurrection According Baachus chapter Wines Lebanon resurrection expressed initially through cultural sowing growing harvesting feast idolize Bacchus introducing sibly opiates ritual Certainly poppy grape carvings around temple certainly Bacchic cults sought emulate total though sexual spite Bacchus apparent bisexuality release advocating destruction social order property casting inhibitions In visit Baalbek wonderful example quickly religious norms currency Today cafes serve Westerners coming going In Baalbek other tourist tination Middle East apart Hizbollah charity boxes adorn access roads Shops selling tourist goods streets residents markedly friendly going If there opportunities Bekaa valley could reputation I decided stroll through Baalbek usually business tourist market While doors every could count number tourists Somewhat refreshingly owners afraid about their economic Visitors surviving owner We Syrian visitors since Hariri death blockade mostly Western Arab visitors The problem there Westerners around there Syrians I going expand early another owner Now plans It Lebanon Just think OK something something happens On another journalist colleague Times London I journeyed Yamouneh Lebanon premier hashish growing regions During Bekaa hashish various factions raised processed smuggled lucrative narcotic their activities Over decade Lebanese government considerable efforts crack hashish plowing under fields building bonfires The occurred summer Finding Yamouneh As descended Yamouneh I could these fields would planted hashish The essentially hillside easily spotted anyone According reports climate ideal growing It after harvest fields below exception gardens adjacent houses At entrance Yamouneh became clear charge Hizbollah flags minarets Hizbollah murals adorned walls Yamouneh famous grotto according legend extended through hillside Afqa Ro rimage where Adonis killed In spring waters flowing grotto Afqa which blood On mountain Roman ruins temple locals large tower Not anyone could Over Lebanese government constructed gation system ruined To temple large cement diverts water channels valley below My journalist companion there years before looked different place altogether Hungry stopped appeared restaurant below stream running through An Roman ruins Yamouneh recently destroyed irrigation project providing water hashish field below woman daughter working making white cheese other cleaning apples stream Ahleen woman Sit We seats front woman She talking daughter Some children appeared Where asked accent I could barely America Britain I pointing friend Would something daughter asked Definitely I answered Out plate makdus pickled eggplant stuffed lebneh sharp yogurt bread butter A minutes later plate white cheese woman making showed Thus began relaxed conversation little deciphering latin The woman accent strong I think words classical Arabic matched parlance We small until appeared their house His short sported equally short beard Ahleen Where The daughter chimed where friendly reserved What asked Journalists companion answered With things quiet Determined frozen again I pushed little where I could How around I asked It OK We visitors summer answered We raise trout He pointed small cement house behind I walked surprise rainbow trout As Pennsylvania I spent hours fishing trying I getting Their skins glistened indeed autumn Coming seats I asked about economy specifically about tourists We built irrigation system woman They ruined needed water below Growing hashish takes water seems demand coming smokers trout connoisseurs Soon another showed His normal length tanned It dawned looked farmer while owner place looked someone Hizbollah I Soon woman daughter brought dressed white terry cloth He close together Aloush woman exclaimed I Alawites Syria Aloush endearment named Ali The daughter walker allowed Ali speed along assisted harness wheels The short Ali father walked Ali black bandana around niscent those Hizbollah fighters Al Muqawamah The resistance companion exclaimed The father looked grinned I waited other questions about But anything In anything other watch female relatives After minutes small order I asked woman everyone lived Yamouneh Shiite Yes We Christians moved Jounieh Beirut twenty years There economic opportunity there That during Civil War I thought It friendly Here Hizbollah country middle Lebanon hashish growing region seemed concerned But others saying We about Lebanese Lira thanked everyone The father walked Come again longer sleep house Next I smile drove As drove through gardens hashish plants could growing everywhere alongside roads Hizbollah banners between alongside electricity poles The My companion looked laughed A years might stopped ourselves Looking ahead Finding going Bekaa Valley might something should policymakers agendas Washington After Wilsonian right national determination means local people better understanding local problems Charles Crane believed spent considerable amount Arab World understanding might When Washington pressures country Lebanon which arguably still intermediate stage nation building enforce sovereignty expense historical commercial trade patterns disarm militias ruled areas longer national would money would spent United States better regions crisis So people Bekaa surviving It seems obvious Syria stringent border customs proce dures efforts combat smuggling designed strangle those parts Lebanon dependent Syria government Beirut economic headache Damascus knows eventually cause political crisis If Washington clean lawless places national security going Currently United States Agency Interna tional Development USAID other NGOs programs Bekaa concerning yields promoting exports They probably export success Lebanon industry example orient economy toward West West political goals After US diplomats Lebanon visit chateaux I although I fortunate enough travel armed escort sched advance U S diplomats Syria allowed visit L ebanon What United States realistically offer people Bekaa absence provided Syria Can hundreds years family mercial political Many Lebanon elsewhere believe possible UN economic sanctions Syria would Lebanon finally alone While might window opportunity political tensions reign preme areas where illicit activity Washington needs think about carrots solely about sticks If something tells Bekaa places remain Twilight Zone Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues Author Tabler Andrew J Title ICWA Letters Middle East North Africa ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia South Asia The Americas Europe Russia Sub Saharan Africa ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Phone Fax E Mail valley Web address Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Administrator Brent Jacobson Administrative Publicati Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Af fairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The Information contained lication reprinted repub lished without express written consent Institute Current World Affairs