© 2007 Institute of Current World Affairs
The Institute awards long-term fellowships to develop a deep understanding of an issue, country, or region outside the US and to share that understanding with a wider public.
Institute of Current World Affairs - Home Page

Below is a hobbled text version of a PDF document.
In order to read the actual document please click the link below and register if necessary.
(One-time registration is free and very quick.)
Read article

4/19/1983 - Leftovers by Bryn E. Barnard

INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS BEB Jalan Seno IV Tebet Barat Leftovers Jakarta Selatan Indonesia Peter Bird Martin April Institute Current World Affairs Wheel House West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 Dear Peter The descends lying clouds along narrow thread asphalt tortuous slopes North Sumatran hills It snaking switchbacking journey waterfalls hovels Batak woodsellers through narrow tunnels barely enough single Vehicle passage The brakes squeal The engine protests The groans hillside This Mercedes Sumatran buses gaudy polychromed affair The bumpers black green chrome chromed striped With multi running lights tinted windows On thewindshield pronouncement Full Video reflective Folk wheels Inside tattered vinyl passengers Jammed together cordwood Usual practice twenty aisle remainder filling doorways Here decoration lively batik patterned fomica walls baroque heavily molded teakwood ceiling features The still close Few small vents The passengers sweat clutching their tickets asuransi chits insurance should brakes plunge through guardrail ravine below Most passengers Batak Minangkabau dominant ethnic groups Indonesia In however behind lumber cotton huddle pronounced foreigners On front bulkhead above tassled window decals bolted video monitor This Hindustani movie playing popping jerking potholes below burdened speakers ackling hissing through succession musical numbers style fight scenes romantic interludes The audience entralled The ignore entertainment among themselves Their speakers silent wires Outside streaked carmine violet Soon sunset When roadside vegetation thins those passengers looking catch glimpse sweep below The water studded Bryn Barnard Institute Fellow studying visual communication Southeast tacILt Asia His current interest impact cmltmze islands myriad traps It glitters reflection waning In hours In minutes reach Sibolga The vehicle creaks amidst clammering throng vendors porters becak pedicab drivers Downtown Sibolga No taxicab plies these streets private Motorcycles motorized becak mesin Though capital Tapanuli Tengah regency Sibolga resounds rrely engines More common jingle becak bicycle bells horse drawn bendi padding slippered The arrival Major Event Passengers disembark quickly heading Bukitinggi fifteen hours south Baggage Indonesians hustled gathering darkness The their backpacks dufflebags surfboards cameras remain harangued persistent circle becak drivers Eventually straggle winners The prize extra three hundred rupiah foreigner usually coerced unnecessary rounds about No remain Sibolga night Eventually herded docks waiting Sumber Makmur Source Prosperity hundred passenger vessel evening Their destination small island kilometers kilometers miles kilometers miles Sumatran coastline Nias Hilly stony fertile Nias pleasant enough place carpeted mantle forest coconut fringed mangrove swamps white beaches coral reefs The island inhabitants number mixed Ipt imported Batak Minangkabau Chinese Achenese indigenous Niah The outsiders concentrated mainly island towns Gunungsitoli capital Nias regency north Telukdalam south small quiet provincial ports peBceful relatives Sibolga They serve traders businessmen hotel petty government officials Though Niah represented towns majority scattered across small villages ranging hundred thousand residents The Niah docile agricultural people Christian Muslim They spend their growing rubber coconuts patchouli This aromatic shrub valued West perfumes medicines coconuts island important export crops Called niilam Indonesian plant cultivated villages throughout island leaves dried their rendered distilled urban traders mostly Bataks product Medan Singapore export USA Europe Few Niah matter traders understand nilam outside world They During period resea Nias rupiah officially valued US exchange throughout report Since April however rupiah devalued US BEB BEB smells helps small wounds quickly requires little takes months harvest fetches Rp By trader stimate I00 ograms exported Nias month That European Australian Small wonder Nias travelers Hotel Wisata import these Everyone Gunungsitoli awaiting their growing nilam Telukdalam But though fragrance permeate every corner island nilam brings foreign tourists occasional plane Nias Nor oddly European styled churches their congregations singing profunis tropical Certainly coconuts No tourists Nias reasons surfing reputed Southeast Asia villages remnants unique megalithic headhunting culture flourished century today Iittle memory Foreigners visiting Nias The Chinese Persians mentioned Nias their records So Portuguese evidence their passage relief galleons Niah carving tipped shoulder plates Niah armor The Dutch however conquer When first Dutch finally Nas century found stratified martial society steeped internecine warfare The island newcomers began conqueor really society north south distinct architectural customs dialects The northerners their villages scattered homes proved conquest conversion This atter Watching entertainment process speeded German Lutheran Hotel Wisata Gunungsitoli missionaries early years century converted Niah provided unique Romanized system writing Only region umlaut phonetically comparable English schwa scholars unsurpassed corpus literature Niah custom culture Germany finest collections Niah sculpture world Within little century northern Nias incorporated administrative structure Netherlands East Indies residents ranks Christiandom Achenese Muslim missionaries start consequently managed convert handful island populace Islam The Hotel Gomo Gunung truculent southerners their fortress sitoli northern hilltop villages proved harder subdue style Southern heads still being gathered traditional local rajas remained effect until Indonesian independence Even Japanese occupied Indonesia during Second World War treated gloves The south remains feisty today barely years Villagers Botohilitan enraged forgotten slight neighboring Lagundri burning portion settlement ground Today southern Nias island window magnet tourists researchers alike The foreigners aboard Sumber Makmur heading south after brief stopover Gunungsitoli would eight Telukdalam Also twice monthly cruise liners M S Mahsuri M S Scandanavia exclusively south The Nias segmeni Of David Attenborough BBC television program The Spirit Asia filmed primarily south And southern village boast anthropologist visit All visitors anxious Nias yesterday alive before shutters modernity close forever No quite whence Niah The doyen Nias researchers Dr G M Thomsen A northern style Niah Sifalete discovered region Of village Gunungsitoli Niah Christians Protestant Cathol BEB A southern Nias beach Jamborae Telukdalam T Niah their theories Some their ancient legends claim island first inhabitants formed elements earth Others intimate But popular sligh variations throughout sland story Gomo Long princess somewhere China ostracized father realm shipwrecked island rivermouth She their upriver search inhabitants found their within sight coast Tibet inhabitants still speak language practice social customs similar those Nias Other anthropologists however insist islanders related hilltribes Burma having migrated there seven thousand years Linguists point Madagascar citing similarities Malagasy Niah langu Contentious historians point striking arities between Niah carving sculpture NagBs Himilayan Assam Moses parting Red Sea walls Niah Gunung sitoli An imported Western print rescue vessel appeared could signaled And Io another China appear The princess signaled Low rations A chalk written record family deaths Births recorded opposite I Baw6 gosali Te ukdalam seeing signal shore intent raiding islanders their stores Upon arrival princess beach welcome newcomers A terrible battle ensued Many Finally helmsman princess called helmsman raiding shipo Let carnage You I fight The loser become slaves winner That better field So fought But evenly matched neither could other Finally exhausted helmsmen called truce vowed cooperate Overjoyed outcome princess whose surname Go asked helmsmen raiding party surname which turned Mo Thus first village Nias Gomo In settlement prospered The inhabi tants their descendents spread across building other villages inter marrying peoples neighboring islands Sumatran mainland Today though coatl Niah exhibit Malayo Polynesian features Gomo other villages interior descen dants those first ships retain epicanthic folds light their forebears Perhaps Dr Thomsen Tibetan connection outlandish after That first battle Gomo portent things Soon village rajas sending warriors adult males battle their neighbors prestige booty slaves heads The prestige booty necessary rajas power The slaves trade items Achenese provided island multi tiered caste system The heads number placed under massive support posts Niah homes others gathered funeral their owner souls serve slaves afterlife Victims Niah rites passage headtaking important adulthood Human blood important paint white pigments decorate homes Frederic Lontcho describes acceptable Niah headhunting technique In general ambush preferable method The hunter would himself remote pathway If woman passed perhaps fetch water would A southern Nias beach Jamborae Telukdalam View Jamborae across Lagundri Telukdalam A Niah warrior battle dress father current headman assistant HiIisimaetan Telukdalam A takulatefad under tunic attacked behind killed decapitated hunter would quickly No scruples shown against perfectly acceptable helped guarantee safety attackers heads children women warriors value To protect themsel sport warriors iunic multi colored cloth mported homespun crocodile armor zealous hunting however produced decline local population By century corrugated roofing become popular though durable substitute Head protection afforded helmet estooned crocodile spikes takulatefa To their heads their shoulders warriors employed thick bronze coconut shell neckpiece kalabubu The costume completed single earring right fonduru loincloth dndora Worn hanging length ndora indication weaFer status longer higher Warriors weapons course Niah equipped Swords called favorite sidearms Knives spears Most fashioned shafts hilts carved occasionally Sheath decoration another indicator status Upon attainment manhood warrior entitled rattan sheath After taking first crocodile teeth added rattan Wooden shields strictly protective relatively unadorned Though women headhunting participate festivities consequently their clothing gentler aspect Applique sarongs blouses complimented female versions kalabubu kalabagi awikaba Both leather multiple tegira seeds Gold recent brass jewelry sialu earrings popular The lives women short neighbor marked ritualized stages birth circumcision women piercing marriage death marked prayers ancestors sacrifice Males adulthood other steps learning sword shield taking first unique virility fahombo stone In center village stood hombo trapezoidal block stones meters flanked other pointed bamboo stakes among paving stones To qualify marriage young warriors attempted running hombo The successful could altar agile impaled attempt Once married Niah personal rituals forward until death Those entered village ruling hierarchy however steps surmount their climb through ranks requiring prayers multiple sacrifices At highest levels Niah society hundreds porkers knife greater glory single Niah kalabagi awikaba fonduru sialu Hilisimaetand Ni obawalaw sword rattan sheath Hili simaetani Ni obawalasara sword rattan crocodile teeth Hilisimaetan Spear walking stick Hi isimaetan Kalabubu fonduru Baw 6mata southern Nias If rites passage important Nias stone moreso especially south Pigs butchered stone slabs kings ruled stone thrones casionally shaded stone umbrellas rested stone couches Their reigns memorialized giQantic monolithic stone telai tablesand obelisks Wars fought village streets paved massive stone tiles Travellers village village paths roadways stone Pillows stone So jewelry And every village hombo Wood played major southern Nias architectural building material Southern Niah villages consisted tightly placed stylistically identical homes along central stone street Homes built vague imitation ships Portugal China smooth planed harcwood planks slanting outwards their support pillars forecastles A decorative ornament either added nautical image Multi colored rosettes unlike Pennsylvania Dutch signs decorated window shutters eaves Visitors entered through among central house pillars easily closed unwanted intruders Towering above house proper thatch thirds total house height Ventilation daytime illumination achieved moveable thatch skylight Inside decoration austere planks occasionally interrupted decorated beams finials However every richly carved altar miniature thrones postory family wooden ancestral statues Propitiated times illness crisis statues resemble Niah warriors fancy headdresses distended right earlobe fonduru other weapon pointed beard Inevitably torsos elongated Heads small Penises erect Bawmataluo village Raja throne Hilisimaetan village Window shutters headman house Hilisimaetan sifehandraul esigno Old Hi inawal mazin6 traditional Niah homes south Stone table Bawmataluo village Stone crocodile smooth Hilisimaetan southern Ni Drying freshly harvested H imaetani To scare birds bamboo poles arranged pivot other sweep across A string pulled watchful attendant motion Another string pivot point spring sorts pulling place This method employed Threshold headman house Bawmataluo sifehandrauli motif Inter village ivalry fierce Nias exploited Dutch their conquest island As where Indonesia played against another tually vanquishing Orahili example southern villages resist European invaders They overcome their traditional rival Hilisimaetand obligingly offered their villag staging Dutch attack Orahili decimated villagers forced Hilinawal mazind kilometers miles north Months later returned rebuild Orahili under Dutch course their neighbors With conquest north south Nias entry estern relinion consequent passage headhunting ancestor worship tradition passed large chunk Niah culture War costumes statuary ritual weaponry became anachronisms their manufacture veritable Nor models available future generations craftsmen those statues ordered destroyed Western iconoclasts Rows jawbones remnants rites feasts rafters Bawmataluo Such An ancestral statue shrine former Bawmataluo village jawbones common sight traditional Niah homes formerely status carted display Europe along weapons musical uments clothing other examples traditional Niah culture Traditional dances centered conquest performed frequently altogether preserved memories elder Niah Though traditional building remained vital eventually conventional materials became expensive obtain imported plywood corrugated roofing became popular substitutes hardwood thatch Less elaborate architectural styles imported mainland towns began their appearance villages The integration Nias bureaucratic political economic framework colonial Indonesian Republic processes along Traditional tottered toward extinction Then tourists Though Nias dribble oreign travelers these adventuresome souls rarely stayed briefly ervice Nias hegular accomodatio_n sparse Gunngi hotels Telukdalambut losmen hardly facilities attract money tourism Youthful Western drifter tourists usual Even construction airstrip assumption weekly Merpati Ai rlines flights charters little crease tourist traffic Nias promoted major Indonesian attraction Most agencies remained ignorant island existence Even Indonesian consulates embassies Southeast Asian region could little point Nias All changed however agents Holland America Lines cruise company arrived Nias looking their Singapore based tours A survey island convin agents Baw6mataluo village kilometers miles Telukdalam suitable tourist destinatlionon island The illage Indonesian traveler hostel preserved traditional southern Nias architecture island including impressive house traditionally every southern large especially magnificent demise monarchy system these tures reduced oversized family looms handed through generations headmen chosen royal families occupy their homes collection Niah weapons artifacts The village impressive stone monuments More importantly Baw mataluo accessible reached asphalt roads island But houses megaliths weren enough tourists would entertainment How about those legendary Niah dances The villagers considered dances performed since Nevertheless elderly villagers remained remembered steps In villagers their dance costumes Given enough young villagers could taught dances It could The villagers BawSmataluo their headman agreed produce dance leaps hombo Rp I00 those about US Thus January MS Prinsendam docked Telukdalam disgorged passengers Every available vehicle rented local Nitour tourist personnel ferry tourists Telukdalam steep bumpy Baw6mataluo The village performance proved success The Prinsendam called total times times thereafter until coast Alaska Ship service resumed vsits MS Scandanavia later MS Mahsuri Other ships Eropa visited island occasional basis Cruise tourism proved Bawmataluo Today performance visit fetche Rp today exchange This divided between eighty dancers Rp hombo jumpers Rp village government Nias government special restoration improvement village traditional homes Negotiations cruise companies handled village headman disburses payment Local transportation other arrangements taken nephew Baw6mataluo representative Nitour These Baw Smataluo prosperous looking villages south The houses repair Many rooftops glitter brand corrugated The village store stocked imported tinned sardines vinyl table cloths other relatively expensive items One entrepeneur installed generator wired village electricity villagers revel luxury lightbulbs except cities Indonesia agency Tourism partially responsible affluence however prime reason Village thriving souvenir business Villagers manufacture variety miniature reproductions Niah weaponry spears knives shields A variety wooden statues similar style Niah carvings either reproduced remaining oiginals photographs villagers fertile Setting souvenir tables imaginations Other items include stone Bawmata statuettes necklaces rings opium scales duridanga resonated bamboo tubes struck other surface produce buzzing sound unlike Australian aborigone didjeridoo Kalabubu popular tourist manufactured heighboring Lausa illage imported Bawmataluo twice monthly cruise visits A typical visit something On morning cruise arrival tables junction intersection BawSmataluo streets departure usual street village tradition village looks cross Souvenirs neatly arranged tables vendor specializing different craft When arrival imminent headman decked safari climbs megalith admonishe villagers polite tables Order lasts until first tourists puffing hundred steps Bawmataluo Chi armful souvenirs tables themselves unfortunate hoping quick Other tourists arrive other vendors orderly market quickly transformed shouting pleading cajoling Niah there bewildered harassed tourist trying shake those children insist hanging othes camera The arrival tourist BawSmataluo Though particular woman MS Scandanavia costume typical those Westerners attempt native their visits Indonesia Unfortunately attire sarung under armpits usually bathe sleep certainly never visit The Niah occasionally throw rocks Western women dressed A typical cruise tourist minutes after arriva Bawmata A Niah dance Bawmatal A Bawmataluo dancer differently costumed dance teams perform village battles A semblance order restored headman nephew Nitour uniform mounts stone tableand bullhorn tongue lashes villagers their aggresiveness The tourists eventually herded edges junction hombo jumpers perform jumps Then dancers their dances explained Nitour guide using bullhorn The latter warriors ranging through series battle dances shaking their spears shields leaping shouting moving generalized circles The overall effect unlike Hollywood interpretation Sioux dance The women agenda perform quite different manner stately dances welcome celebration Eyes downcast Expressions immobile The tourists become bored slower choreography begin consider souvenirs Throughout dances vendors knowing hours their wares pressure Eventually always tourists succumb perhaps purchasing kalabubu statues necklaces Thus vindicated repeated weeks hence When selling cruise tourist vendors beaches surfers loose their docks daily passengers these jumpers contend hombo bamboo stakes longer Niah dancer Bawmataluo Niah dancer Bawmataluo Gunungsitoli occasional Sibolga Padang Most however their souvenirs weeks return their nilam coconuts rubber until cruise pulls Telukdalam BawOmataluo prosperity aroused jealousy other villages speak missed Says Samasai Laoli elder nearby Hilisimaetan In BawOmataluo renowned village Nias In battle always Baw6matluo always They copied their customs We still dancers We still Orbba kalabubu fonduru What house burned fifty years rebuilt But tourists should coming BEB Fahombo stone jumping Bawbmataluo But tourists Hilisaematan6 Occasionally small group foreigners touring southern villages dances But other heirlooms headman assistant extensive collection Hilisimaetan6 little offer casual foreign tourist Thi rLyfive kilometers miles inland jarring motorcycle along Nias stone tracks village HilinawalOmazind biggest homes island inhabitants Orahili their village decimated Dutch earlier century The current owner Ondalita Buul bitter Ten years representative Indonesian government village declared national treasure other villages Indonesia The government restore house other village houses The would paved Tourists could Come So I feast sacrificed custom The government official It years nothing happened No No At tourists We crafts wonder tourists Why carve statues going Bawmataluo while houses Hardly starter Mr Ondalita attitude uncommon among Niah dislike Bawmataluo material success insistence craft production requires existing market Though visitors Bawmataluo might impressions crafts Nias thriving opposite The souvenir versions produced Baw6 mataluo surrounding villages versions The originals since disappeared Outside Baw6mataluo llages occasional jacket knife basket these nants villagers eagerly offer When asked still being produced invariable answer longer Perhaps without tourist traffic Baw6mataluo southern Nias might crafts Bawmatal eminence unchallenged When David Attenborough BBC Spirit Asia production Nias dances fahombo Bawmataluo villagers nearby Hilinawalb decided steal limelight themselves Attenborough arrived weeks before preliminary shots negotiated headman Bawmataluo Then returned Britain When arrived without Attenborough police officers Teluk dalam native Hillinawal directed Bawmataluo their village The spread Hillinawal concerned Baw mataluo Since southern Nias villages similar appearance spoke Niah little Indonesian enough While headman Baw mataluo waited fumed villagers Hillinawali performed their dances fahombo rusty however practice Bewildered these amateur antics packed after three though planned Still until arrived London compared their Attenborough photos unaware filmed wrong village The first inkling earlier however Radio Republik Indonesia which announced departure after filming dances Baw6mataluo This headman Baw mataluo still waiting He fired letter Attenborough damage Hillinawal Hillinawal Victory underdogs Not Baw6mataluo other center south Nias tourism Lagundri Here however emphasis cultural environmental The tourists visit Lagundri beach coral reefs palms inexpensive accomodation Mostly surfing Surfing Jamborae beach Lagundri southern Nias Few tourists Lagundri visit villages interior Their intere culture peripheral backdrop their seaside activities anything A souvenir beachside peddlers usually sufficient evidence their visit bring adventurous photograph front Botohili traditional village Lagundri A former Lagundri traditional homes The Lagundri bound tourists trickle throughout Australians Europeans Japanese occasional American In June July however waves break Nias island innundated Aussies T traveler grapevine shoestring guides Indonesia Handbook articles surfing magazines spread Lagundri Kuta Beach Bali great surfing spots Southeast Asia Lagundri suffered Once southern Nias small Muslim village wiped tidal caused explosion Krakatoa Shipping moved Telukdalam Lagundri rebuilt smaller quieter place Almost century later portion village burnt ground Botohili AgBin Ivillage rebuilt Throughout trials remained tightly community Muslim island Christian This latest attack proven harder resist The surfers money spend freely The villagers Lagundri those Baw6mataluo eager source eagerly accomodated tourist demands Four years Lagundri osmens Today village Just beach owned villagers ofBotohili thatch roofed Waikiki sprng This Jamborae village virtually losmens barely apart names Honest No Problem Ya Niah greeting meaning strength Jamborae Villas More being built month Australian Japanese surfers enroute Gunungsitoli Lagundri Jamborae beach Lagundri southern Nias Losmen Ama Yanti Lagundri Losmen Ama Soni Jamborae BEB Jamborae beach Lagundri southern Nias A losmen costs about Rp build including A Niah farmer perhaps twenty hectares coconut palms Those nilam gather necessary capital faster And Lagundri Botohili quite number villagers already requisite beachfront property They knock their coconut palms build Most losmens split bamboo thatch A Lagundri plank corrugated The Government losmen under construction concrete corrugated steamy tropical climate Ama Ji Muslim hotelier Lagundri already three losmens Lagundri property bought Jamborae Like losmen owners Ina Ji Area Ina father mother All Niah children referred parents their firstborn Ji charge Rp night their three double occupancy losmen Food usual Indonesian tourist route fruit salads fried noodles omelettes coconut cookies other delicacies designed please finicky Western palates Seafood Lagundri speciality Ina Ji often steamed snapper lobster Rp plate A double cupancy meals easily losmen owner Rp Niah Littl wonder Lagundri residents expect total losmen years Outsiders Telukdalam Gunungsitol foreigners trying_to Lagundri Jamborae build hotels A Bd rumors abound about international airport Indonesian government planning south Nias Lagundri potential Kuta Beach money hotels social change implies Niah figure happen Nias spared because Of island inaccessibility tourist infrastructure Given airport capable handling modern traffic international standard hotels serious promotion Indonesian government ituation change Rapidly Though tourism could bring Nias Indonesian government quite healthy chunk foreign exchange social cultural costs seriously considered beforehand The Niah culture resiliant certainly strong Balinese after thirty years intensive tourism finally beginning collapse The Niah already decline culture quite moribund Though elders glory preserve remnants The young youth everywhere Indonesia attracted exotica West Lagundri already growing cadre surfers trying adopt casual permissive beach culture Australia Hawaii California their Instead Ya greet foreigners cheery G paddle outside breaks Even Bawmataluo prime village marketer traditional youth Jakarta educated urban sophisticate headman nephew The concern Niah elsewhere would prefer village change modernize remain mired Before future comes Nias island desperately needs museum other cultural repository preserve record island culture foreigners future generations Niah No institution exists The houses Bawomataluo Hilisimaetano could provide foundation Artifacts remaining other Niah villages could purchased museum displayed there souvenir hunters Better Nias Indonesian government could carry their delayed create showcase village Hilinawalmazin elsewhere living museum Such display villages already north Sumatra among Karo Batak But museums require money culture priority Nias these The Niah roads build bridges repair coconut groves harbors deepen nilam plant churches mosques BEB airports The Niah would however consider their island unique hermitage before tourism overtakes Afterwards little choice Sincerely arnard The boots Australian tourist List lllustrations I0 Map Nias Mendr W S Fondrak6 Ono Niha Inkultra Foundation Jakarta north Sumatra Dalton Bill Indonesia Handbook Moon Publications Chico travelers BEB entertainment BEB Hotel Gomo BEB Northern Niah house courtesy J S Pe correspondent Medan daily Waspada Southern Nias beach BEB Moses parting religious print possibly American Death record BEB The pepatah proverb reads which sweet should quickly swallowed which bitter should quickly discarded Southern Nias beach BEB View Jamborae BEB Niah warrior black white family Samasa Laoli Hi I isimaetan J Takulatefa ba_and under tunic BEB collection Samasa Laoli Kalabagi awikaba fonduru sialu BEB collection Samasa Laoli Ni obawalaw61d BEB collection Samasa Laoli Ni obawalasama BEB collection Samasa Laoli Spear walking stick BEB collection Samasa Laoli Kalabubu fonduru BEB collection Samasa Laoli Bawimataluo BEB Botohili BEB Bawmataluo steps BEB Hilisimaetan shutters BEB The si6fehandruli pattern found traditional homes throughout Nias eight sixteen petaled rosettes I received differing explanations significance Some informants claimed represented basic petaled corners village square whemeail royal decisions implication power Others insisted pattern represented branches branches Nias royal families Whatever signifi cance siifehandrauli found utters fonduru figure stone carving figure under tunic patterning Hilinawalimazin BEB Hi I isimaetani throne BEB Baw6matal BEB Hilisimaetan crocodile BEB Though crocodiles obvious importance Niah stone representation I observed villages visited southern Nias Hilisimaetan6 protector BEB Baw6mataluo threshold BEB Rows jawbones courtesy J S Pelawi Ancestral shrine courtesy J S Pelawi Bawmataluo souvenir tables BEB Hip tourist BEB sarongs under armpits costumes Niah rocks insults Shorts tanktops other sleeveless women considered immodest reprimand Typical tourist BEB Niah dance BEB Baw6mataluo dancer BEB Bawmataluo dancer BEB Baw6mataluo dancer BEB Bawmatal dancers BEB Fahombo BEB Surfing Jamborae BEB Surfers pencil sketch bristol board BEB Jamborae sketch bristol board BEB Losmen Ama Yanti BEB Losmen Ama Soni BEB Jamborae Beach pencil sketch bristol board BEB Australian tourist boots pencil sketch bristol board BEB Acknowledgements This report based information gathered during visit Nias Two spent Gunungsitoli Wisma Soliga losmen The proprietor Ama Phil Chinese Niah original source Story Gomo provided wealth information Niah magic He introduced Ama Rojama island premier scholars Niah culture source Niah symbology ritesof passage rituals From Gunungsitoli I traveled Telukdalam Losmen Ama Yanti Lagundri Ama Yanti Islamic religious teacher dukun shaman member Baw mataluo royal family He another version Gomo story loads historical religious information Magic Samasa Laoli Hilisimaetan5 information source Niah clothing weapons All generous their information hospitality Also important realization newsletter Scott Paauw produced Swanny R Gunadharma typed American Language Training Jakarta Thanks Produced Received Hanover