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8/21/1981 - Down the Li River: Seagrass from the Desert and Other Tall Tales from the Chinese by Camilla J. Wilson

NOT FOR PUBLICATION CJW WITHOUT WRITER S CONSENT INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS DOWN THE LI RIVER SEAGRASS FRO THE DESERT AND OTHER TALL TALES FRO THE CHINESE By Cammy Wilson A sense absurd asset vsitor China Sometimes fantasy foreigner sense inexplicable For example I decided Chinese their impressions western world CHINESE NATIONAL INQUIRER Not I actually The Chinese funny about I think under counter foreigners But I there How would understand decadent western society Take common western practice young marryin wealthy elderly women their money The Chinese about This Wong Chinese confided stuation German painter other passengers What asked Lynn Thomas advertising executive practically fallin chair where sunnin herself decadent western fashion What talkin about You Wong persisted Young marry woman money That happen country That husband She least dismissed matter Mr Won nothin moments Maybe finally That happen though My people uides joined several other roups excursion aboard plied Li Jian River A luxury cruise Essentially aboard sizeable tugboat lower outfitted tables chairs The upper except chairs canopy Cammy Wilson formerly staff writer INNEAPOLIS TRIBUNE Overseas Journalism Fellow Institute Current World Affairs CJW Ir Wong keeps western From vantage point I several other passengers settled enjoy river Somehow seems river Li exception Here there roups small apparently chared tendin water buffaloes hobbled animals taken river There splashed played diving underneath other pullin another shrieks whoops laughter Further a4ult women blsck pajamas walloped clothes sticks looked shortened paddles No seemed necessary They chattered laughed themselves brinin paddles resolutely clothina A paddle large clothes reduce tension The current boats rapidly beside The ommon craft eight bamboo lashed toether typically single fisherman large basket slender bamboo steering The simple A bamboo CJW What sight watch fishermen there opened silver parasols shimmerin sunlight dapplin water The fisherman catch became visible lided close skimmin surface secured strin attached While adults banks seemed appeared A explained people enjoyn slack period rowin season Black pajamaed women level water along reaching water greens In shoals numerous large Baskets bicycles waiting carry produce On previous evening dinner salty across slithered narrow blades grass It thegrassfrom guides explained Are gathering seaweed night I asked No Wong They gather grass buffalo Otherwise buffalo young crops He looked puzzled Last night seagrass grass desert We thought being Seaweed desert Oh seagrass esert nodding vigorously We expensive No doubt The Hong Kong people Hong Kong guide interjected The similar happy Hong Kong Chinese Seagrass desert remin4ed esterners buying elixirs revitalize Many large Hong Kong department stores literally ginseng antler departments where shopper purchase various potions Americans Geritol Chinese ginseng antlers seagrass desert While I concentrated along river tourists around snapped pictures famous Guilin scenery The peaks crags sometimes sheared abruptly river itself mostly towered grandly distance CJW The limestone formations beneath three million years accordin eoraphers Eventually hills mountains forced through earth crust water strange loomin figures before Few described aptly Han Yu Tan period The river forms green gauze wrote The mountains hairpins Blue airpins landscape place Regardless river resembling green gauze mouth began cotton after hours aboard There nothing_ No drinks Lunch offered relief members brought steaming bowls tables passenger Inside beansprouts greens undetermined origin pieces derivation unknown single shelled darkened purplish sheen I recalled Hong Kong travel agent called Guilin worst China After bites I pulled small saved breakfast This quite palatable peanut candies filled small every table sufficed Other members group One woman still trying something other drink Do mineral water Yes mineral water Wong That CJW Not incredulously But somewhere China there mineral water Lynn Thomas American advertising executive She asked mineral water When bowls nearly arrived I returned Like parade small boats filed On skiff mother poled cautiously small child squatting behind motionless narrow There hollowed passengers indeed total bamboo lashed together One slight start child would other poling river CJW Comin rapidly larer small space which bicycle rested boats carryin bicycles common Occasionally would One passenger would water someone would sacks pedal A bicycle bamboo maximum mobility Roundin corner I dozen members intent their Lunch apparently passengers Women large which washin remains lunch On bowls recently brought tables inside Rather dumpin contents women painstakingly separated contents beansprouts reens another In third pieces purplish coloured Water dousin small brought water river Why waste perfectly Inside I encountered uides What going washin6 there lunch The guide began giggle He something CJW Cantonese other English Maybe animals But would He laughed harder They might animals Apparently I looke4 unconvinced Joke Then added soberly You Yes He turned I Our attention turned abruptly A sharp scrapin sound filled around The uides dashed returned The river shallow The passengers inerly their craft shallow water where small crowd begun ather The people poorer those streets Guilin These people tattered black pajamas often patched patched until resembled monochromatic quilt Apparently patchin black The uides embarrassed roundin which seemed embarrassin lapse their rather caprice river Today special program guides joked Indeed opportunity China included I group shore walked fields Here there workers planted ploughed woman carefully pulling watermelon seeds small black pouch about waist dropped seeds furrow swished She shuffled making movements swish Pull swish A study efficiency An later after several additional boats pulled craft sandbar aboard By blazing looked looked forward Lasheudi river where conditioned waited transport CJW High above river farmer plants seeds closes furrows fifty kilometres Guilin anything Lasheuti someone asked Oh Wong beamed Coca Cola I whether Chinese National Inquirer carries Coca Cola I reasonably certain carry articles discomania Our Guilin travel guide instance seized advertising executive chance learn John Travolta dance steps apparently beloved People Republic You disco Oooh I learn disco guide exclaimed You teach disco At point literally hanging thirds front which bouncing along ridiculously speed The driver apparently intent running every bicycler fifty stretch between Lasheuti Guilin Well I Guilin again countered Sure problem replied Then CJW disco One amenities Chinese provide their foreign uests hotel disco The Inquirer impression Americahs frequent discos often drink Coca Cola Regardless after final shoppin visited Hotel Jai Shah disco Gold tinsel streamers suitable American Leion Hut New Year Eve Party ceilin cavernous Western music blared stereo system volume right anyway Several overly solicitous staff members started direction poorly concealed mafiosi surroundin Brothers movie But there Won Had there Won That would question Brothers movie But China movie Won apparently otten So Chinese patrons place completely deserted Clearly enough advertising perhaps Chinese National Inquirer Received Hanover