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5/1/1994 - Bhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon by Cynthia M. Caron

NOT FOR PUBLICATION CMC WRITER SCONSENT INSTITUTEOFCURRF NTWORLDAFFAIRS Bhuta Land ofthe Thunder Dragon May25 Thimphu Bhutan Mr PeterB Martin Institute ofCurrent World Affairs West Wheelock Street Hanover NewHampshire 03755USA Dear Peter On first morning Bhutan hearty shouts hhhhaaaa hhhhooo hhhhaaa floated through window It clock Immediately I associated exuberance religious morning ritual perhaps morning prayers While expert Tantric Buddhism Bhutan national religion I thought rhythm quick connected peaceful sounds Buddhist monks I heard chanting Nepal I pulled drapery commotion first I heard religious ceremony ritual archery Specifically final match three contest between Ministry Agricultureand theRBG theRoyalBody Guards The earlier shouts ofjoyaccompanya viotorydancemadewhenateammatehassmckabull Fiveor sixteammembersgatherina circle their bamboo extend their hands Each member aroundinhisowncircleononeleHisotherlegbentattheknee isextendedoutacrossthe turning In hopping unison member turns inside circle changes andturnsbackagainintheopposite direction Thisdancecontinuedforfiveorsixfullrams There dancing sidelines While women allowed actively participate archery tournaments Equivalent cheerleaders women dance sidelines support while distract break concentration membersoftheopposingteamwith tauntsand teasing Monks likewise areforbidden toengage archery matches butwere amongthe hundred spectators Archery thenationalsportofBhutan isplayednearlyyearroundbothforgeneralfunandserious competition On before important matches teams consult trologers offerings local deities The bamboo species local zhushing traditionM isprotectedintheZhoshingReservedForestthatwas specificallydesignedforthispurpose My window balcony overlook Changlimithang Sports Ground The footpaths leading sporting complex follow Thimphu meaning river The CynthiaCaron isaJohnM MusserMemorialFellowofthe Institutestudyingforestconservation South Asia Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young adults outside United States write about international areas issues Endowed bythelateC hadesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations bushesinthegardens separatingthepedestrianandvehicle avenues alongthe riverarenowinft bloom Bhutan small kingdom nestled Eastern Himalaya called Land Thunder Dragon The mountainous nation relatively isolated outside world until landlockedbetweenIndiaandtheTibetAutonomousRegionofChina InDzongkha thelanguage ofBhutan country known Druk citizens Drukpa Drukpa meaning dragon meaning Buddhist religious school founded century Tsangpa Gyare Yeshe Dorje Central Tibet Religious political influenced Drukpa migrated Bhutan Central Eastern Tibet between centuries By century first Drukpa monasteries founded Western Bhutan The Dmkpa school continued power other Buddhist schools WesternBhutan Inthe 17thcentury ShabdrungNgawangNamgyelunifiedBhutanunderDrukpa authority At country conglomeration valley settlements different language variations Buddhist tradition separated other mountain passes The Bhutan likely originates Indian Bhotanta which refers regions bordering Tibet I L AFGHANISTAN JAMMUAND C H N A KASHMIR L L PRADESH Y UTTAR Z PAKISTAN PRADESH T BET V CE SK KtM G EAST jBHUTAN I L BURMA BANGLADESH Figure I MapofBhutaninrelationtosurroundingcommunitiesintheHimalaya From Stainton A Flowers ofthe Himalaya supplement Oxford Univ Press True historical roots country continues strongly religious The government maintainsreli giousand culturaltraditionsoverwhatmightbe consideredmodemanddevelopedto peoplefrom distantlands With strongBuddhistcomervation ethic roughly60 ofthe country forested habitat under protection All buildings constructed traditional style often without nails W mdows distinct trefoil shape EachBhutanesehomehasaworshiproom called achhosho includingan alterlined religious statues Thetraditionaldressformenisarobecalledakho pronouncedgho Itlookslikeabathrobe The loosely criss crosses chest blouses called kerey This frontal forms pocket traditionally carrying sword contemporary office serves ahandy place wallet daily planner Underneath menwear shirt shorts colder cotton trousers sweatpants The touches The fabric vertically striped cotton woolen check S tockings interesting contrast crisply pressed present probable information about status anddestinationofthewearer Prominentgovernmentofficialsandofficeworkersfavortheknee cotton blend solid colored dress wingtips sturdy leather shoes For causal around market argyle socks casual shoes appear popular choice For sports athletic socks sneakers practical Knee socks required monastery visits Footwear spans spectrum flops hiking boots While encouraged Bhutanesemen wearwestern clothing I women western dress Nepali Bhutanese women alike pronounced rectangular piece floor length horizontally striped cotton draped pinned shoulders Most silver coral turquoise other precious stones The itself feels wearing heavy compared wearing which feels being wrapped sheet When trying I surprised discover clasps The themselves aresturdy andmustoffsettheweightofthe hanging fabric The bound waist cotton kerey woven multicolored geometric designs Underneath women petticoat kimono style blouse called wartgju The wangju sleeves extending beyond thefinger Awaistlongjacketofcotton style blouse called tyoko The sleeves blouse folded jackettoformfourtofiveinch cuffs On official visits Dzong government administration offices monasteries attending official functions women For large muslin colored kamney edged fringe wraps shoulder hangs around Women double slender scarf called rachu shoulder Like women kerey woven bright geometric designs While women sashes holds importance denoting Ordinary citizens muslin colored Menwith standing unfringed varieties called honorific namza Blue namzas court officials orange ministers knighted officials His Majesty King wears yellow indicating supreme authority I enjoy wandering about Thimphu It difficult become Myinvestigations routes often places I before There street Thimphu called Norzim Lain It length Without stopping shops imported Indian goods approximately thirty minute There three police roundabouts One Lungten Zampa Bridge entrance Thimphu Norzim Lam first intersection northern street markingtheedgeoftown Bhutan isacountrywithout traffic lights Eachroundabout staffed withawhiteglovedpoliceofficerwhodirectstrafficbygracefullybendinghisarms attheelbow There about another dozen paved roads proper For country started building roads built finest roads I ridded walked along South Asia The roads suitably enough often prohibited overtaking I impressed sidewalks stretches width There plenty space friends without inconveniencing others passing Likewise gutters enough while still early monsoon season I Perusingthiscityisajoy Ifeelanabsolutesenseoffreedom privacyandpersonalspace There beggars Children skirt demanding rupee Noneoftheshopperkeepers followmedownthe streetand toconvinceme visittheirshop I alone where I please People friendly often smiling nodding I gesture I return The streets nation capital quiet Honking horns heard mostly duskto alertpedestriansoftheirapproach Onnarrowwindyroadshemsareessentialaroundthe bends frequently enough vehicle There video shops shops Thimphu pitched Hindi songs cannot heard Video shops arerecent Iamtoldthat istheIndianinfluence Thimphu ispopularspotforIndiantourist atthistimeofthe Atapproximately7 feetthe valley surrounded rolling covered hills refuge burning Indian plains early morning after turtlenecks light sweater appropriate The weather during unpredictable Some bright cotton shaped clouds Other itisdownrightgrey harbingeroftheannualmonsoonseason Themonsoonoriginatesin southwest abian Sea The system travels across Indian subcontinent creatingsuddenburstsofrainas itmovesalongandpicksupmoistureagainintheBayofBengal Fromthere itstrikestheArkancoastofMyanmar formerlyBurma andmovesbackwestintothe EasternHimalaya Regularlyinthe earlyafternoonwe experienceshowers thatdevelop intoheavy downpours These showers become frequent fierce June approaches From through September pmdictabl regularity daily afternoonandintoth night Thingsb gintodryoutinOctober I asthough Iamlivinginahomeyyet exclusive hillresortcommunity In certainway Iam Current figures Bhutan population range million In official government documents population always cited million A consultant United Nations toldme thatmanyinternationaldonors onlygive assistance tonationswithapopulationofat million All estimates Thimphu population converge On first Saturday Iencounteredfouroutofthefivepersons IknowwellontheThimphu streets Iusethetermexclusivebecause ifyoudonothaveafortune tospend isvery ditiicultto visit country There three foreigners except Indians enjoy privilege border mayvisit Bhutan The first through employment There foreign international organizations The second gaining entry Bhutan receive invitation WhenI I shared airport passenger Paro Thimphu older German couple invitation officer Ministry Agriculture The German gentleman agricultural mission Bhutan Afew months wrote Bhutanese colleague about organizing holiday If purpose Bhutanese visit vacation there receiving invitation third enter country through organized These tours expensive TwoAmericanwomenImetarepaying 00adayforseven Daily range between Tours include trekking longerwithalowerdailyfee Icombinedthefirsttwooptions SangayWangchuck headofthe Nature Conservation Section ofthe Forestry Services Division I classmates forestry school He WWF Bhutan Programme sponsoring fieldwork Jigme Dorji National Parkmmmgementplan The country strictly controls tourism since The Royal Government takes careful approach development activities It intends using experience neighbors avoid misfortunes unregulated unplanned economic growth The nation sprimarygeneratorsofforeign capital electricitygeneratedbyhydropower forest agrictdtural products While recognizing potential foreign exchan tourism government opted regulate tourism minimize possible adverse effects culture heritage natural environment Due small population Buddhist ethics strong government commitment conserving biological resources Bhutan unique offeringofpristine environments fornature basedtourism Butthe presentKingonce saidthathe concerned GNP Gross National Product Gross National Happiness people When Jeremy Bemstekn mountaineer United States visited Bhman spoke Karchung Wangchuck manager trekking mountaineering government operatedBhutanTourismCorporation WangchucktoldBemsteinthathewould toreduce number oftrekkers about there approximately To provide wilderness experience trekking party should allowed route In attheendoftheRoyalGovernment ssixthfiveyearplantheBhutanTourismC orporation privatized Since several independent travel operaters marketing nttmber cultural trips trekking expeditions sprung Even atization tourism carefully implemented government regulations For seventh ceilingontouristsperyear TheweekendmarketinThimphuisanopportunitytoviewavarietyoflocalproductsanddiscover diversity within local population Only Saturday Sunday Thimphu residents alarge selectionoffresh fnfitsandvegetables Shoppers stockupfortheweek Theproduce reveals sellers travel distances villages north south Thimphu Many deeply creased supple leather Apples products primarily cheeses longhairbrushesarefromregionsnorthofThimphu Jakfnait ArtocarpusheterophyllusL litchis Litchi chinensis tropical products southern foothills Jakfi happens tobeoneofmyfavoritesnacks The frtfi largerandheavierthanafootball greenincolorand covered small bumps branches jakfnfit grows Insidetheendocarparesmallbrightyellowfruitshavingarubberytexture Tearingoffone endofthefruitcarefullywithyourteeth thepitinthemiddleslidesoutandtheflesh isfinishedin Jak sweet delicious sprinkled water Unfortunately every jakfrtfit I inspected Saturday morning sickly overripe smell The litchis frequent desert fruit fetchagoodpriceofNu 35forasmallbunch Nu standsfortheBhutanesecurrencyngultnnn which value Indian rupee The currencies interchangeable Bhutan ThecurrentrateisNu Ibuyabunchofbananas Inmyattempttobuytwomangoes Iendupwithtwokilosthatwill lastmewellthroughtheweek Bright green chilis onions ginger garlic essential ingredients spicy readily available Sugarcane potatoes tomatoes cabbage cucumbers carrots beans arejustsomeoftheproduce available Fiddleheadfernsandasparagusareinseasononlyduring May June Cheese products little shapes sizes The popular variety dasti necessaryformakingBhutan snationaldishhemmadasti Madefromcow smilk itcomesas small white paddy easily cnnnbling first touch The cheese carefully wrapped carried moistened banana I first about hemmadasti young Bhutanese I Kathmandu He delicious chili peppers cheese sauce served withalocalvarietyredrice HewarnedmethatIwouldneed leasttwohankiesduringmymeal One watering other runny He right about hemmadasti being delicious caught guard first I visuafized chili peppers creamy cheese sauce maybe something chili peppers gratin Instead I sliced green chilisandonionsinaclearsaucevcithsmalllumpsofwhitecheeseresembling Nevertheles savory blend I could distinctly taste fiery peppers complemented cheesesauce Andmyinformantwaswrong onehankywassufficient TodaywasagovernmentholidayinhonorofLordBuddha sconception Iac companiedMingma Sherpa WWF country representative paying their respects deity Our first Memorial Chorten Thimphu A chorten often called stupa religious monument representing Buddha Every I chorten golden spire sparkling afternoon The Memorial Chorten built honor His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuclg third King Bhutan I often wander clockwise along square chorten never inside One enters chorten walled compound south Immediately inside whitewashed tremendous enclosure shelteringashinyredcylindricalprayerwheel Continuingclockwisearoundthestonebaseofthe chorten themainentrance isonth enorth Weclimbthreethickcement stairsandremoveour shoes The rounded ground floor larger looks outside The paintings walls commemorating events Buddha maroon forest green outlined Ascending narrow spiral staircase reach first floor In center taking theroom isalargeand unfriendlylookingstatuethatismadeupofnearly1000smallerstatues There masks protruding horns pointed canines The craftsmanship magnificent followingdelicatelinesandnarrowcreases Wewaitatthebottomofthenextstaircase There barely enough adults other Children advantage passing easily underneath adult holding The second floor relatively emptywithalightandairyfeeling There isabalconynamingaroundtheoutside allowing sunlight penetratethe interior The staircase leadsus thetopofthe chorten From theviews ofthevalleyarespec tacular Wetoweroverrooftopsandtheweepingcypresstreesliningthe streets The chorten tapers ascend within small circular confines rooftop beneath spire devout prostrate themselves three times Lord Buddha Pressingtheirpalmstogetherinaprayer likefashion lifttheirhandsupinfrontoftheirface their front oftheir chest before descend their knees their palms infrontofthemandpress theirforeheadtotheground Eventhe elderlyflowthrough thisprocess exceptional grace WhenweleavetheChortenwewindourwayupwestwardto theChangangkLhakhang situated knoll overlooking valley Built century oldest temples Thimphu Plastic sheeting provides protective cover statues The painted thankas masked bysheets Boththeresultofrenovations Today ritualinvolvesfightingbutterlampswith sticksof incense The lamps Changangkha l_tmkhane shape ofchalices lined along series tiers front photograph current King His Majesty Jigme Singye Wartgchuck The lamps light stand waist bowls diameter We light individual sticks incensefromanadjacentlamp Thelamps filledwithglobsofvaryingshapesofmelting butter Anelderlymonkcomesbyandpoursaoneliterbottleofsunfloweroil intooneofthelamps As weleavethetemplewehearnmaorsthatHisMajesty isonhiswaythere Weend ourpilgrimagewithan excursion toDechenfourkilometersnorthofThimphu Anhour forest there exists monastery caves meditating carved hills overhead Thegentlyslopingpathinto forest iswornwithuse The foreston either sideofthe distinct structure Conifers overstory story shrubby bushes understory Pairs birds glide through With distance grade gradually increases Aswepassthroughaclearingweencounteranearverticalrockface Whiteprayerflagswithaged tatterededgesmarktheopeningofar Atthenext slope wehaveour firstglimpseofthe monasterybeyondrollingfieldsofripeningwheatand squareplotsofvegetables Alongthe trailI counted several shades green Ripening crops ferns bushes pines mosses theirownhue Inthismonastery Iamnotallowedto enterthesame sanctuary asmyNepalesecompanions With sharp twist wrist young motions follow We ascend solid wooden staircasecarvedoutofthetrunkofa single Inaroomwithwindowsonthree sides alter cloudedby burning incense smoking butter candles Themonk stands tomyfight instructs individual position taken during prostration We through exercise three times Fromtheinsideofhissaffron coloredrobehepullsoutanote ItakeacrispNu 5noteoutofmy pocketandpress ittomyforeheadwithmyrighthand Ilowermyeyes sayashortprayerand placethebillonabrassplatterwiththeofferingsoftheday previousworshippers Best regards Corresponding address Mingrna Norbu Sherpa WWF Bh utanProgramme P O Box Thimphu Bhutan Literature cited Dorji Rigzin Abriefreligious culturalandsecularhistoryofBhutan NewYork The Asia Society Galleries Pomrnaret F IntroductiontoBhutan Geneva EditionsOlizane Dorji C T HistoryofBhutanbasedonBuddhism NewDelhi ProminentPublish Bemstein J IntheHimalayas JourneysthroughNepal TibetandBhutan NewYork Simon SchusterInc 333pp Planning Commission Royal Government Bhutan Seventh Five Year Plan Vol Main Plan Document Thedesignsofaonengulmxmnote Nu isworthapproximately