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11/1/1990 - Berlin: In Search of History. by Carol V. Rose

NOT FOR PUBLICATION WITHOUTWRITER SCONSENT CVR INSTITUTEOFCURRENTWORLDAFFAIRS BERLIN IN SEARCH OF HISTORY The Berlin Wall demise November Bath Street Oxford OX4 England Mr Peter Bird Martin director Institute Current World Affairs West Wheelock Street Hanover N H 03755 U S A November Dear Peter friends I returned international intrigue Berlin The purpose investigate German policy toward refugees But I realized discussion German social policies possible without first considering anxious Berlin German reunification Carol Rose ICWA fellow writing cultures South Central Asia visiting fellow Oxford University Refugee Studies Programme Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young adults United States write about international areas issues Endowed bythelateCharlesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations CVI Although almost entirely destroyed World War II Berlin bustling million people heart former German Democratic Republic unified Federal Republic Germany As Berlin occupied years divided until month Before Soviet Union controlled East while United States France Britain dominated West These West Berlin entirely rebuilt restored Bismarck classical buildings cafes modern galleries Indeed sense design thoughout Germany planned border artifice Said Berliner We Germans unique ability erase history Whether unique Germans peoples disapp earing history became recurring theme throughout journey Anyone visits Berlin stroll along Kurfurstendamm street downtown Berlin Here litter sidewalks decorated large showcases display latest German jewelry china leather handbags Prices sight pants blouse shoes leather gloves Before nification strictly forbidden East Germamy decorate automobiles artistic masterpiece topped pieces Berlin Wall In middle Emperor William Memorial Church bombed remains which supposed reminder But sense unreal floodlights during night dominated ultra modern cathedral during The Jewish community center Kurfurstendamm gives surprisingly little istory The community marble archway salvaged temple placed against modern facade present building An armed guard stands entrance evidence continuing Nazi activities Berlin Inside display menorahs talmud other religious objects This remains strong Jewish community thrived pollcema mile8 Zrom Berlin before Today dpost Omce somez police Zzeely Zozelgm vlSltO around Jews remain Berlin Still largest Jewish community Germany I decided visit East Berlin November first anniversary collapse after division November Significance German history other reasons On first attempt reunify princely states Germany collapsed leaders imprisoned On Nove first German Republic proclaimed Reichstag building In November Kristolnacht night Nazi thugs streets looting Jewish shops homes presaging horrors follow This strangely quiet I arrived Reichstag building eager witness first meeting united German Upper House Senate House Lords since Hitler dissolved Parliament burned Reichstag Yet I fanfare surrounding meeting CVR Ithen walked behind Reichstag where Berlin Wall stood months I expected gaping wound Some But there nothing Where there stood impregnable there paved The indication existed eight small graves marked With white crosses monuments people trying escape Walking across field between East West I struck again human ability history Later I learned future apartment buildings At Brandenburg Gate where Crowds gathered celebrate reunification street vendors history tourists East German military uniforms Russian pieces freshly painted There great irony become ultimate commodity capitalist consumer culture I succumbed pressure paying East German Berlin On writing Russian German West blank white space History obliterated Crossing grassy field East I stopped abandoned East German guard An bottle It looked someone stepped moment never returned Physical evidence Cameras mounted posts outside evidence economic situation aandomed Berllm gvernmemt East On avenue oZfIce The wlzes pulled zendezlng cameras Unter Linden Shops government useless consumer items CVR Staats I there Stadtc S Bat still Umst Fe fewer cheaper U Bat quality Autol West Shops Haupt Zwei things Blumbeq Anlec owned East Germans foreign Intert companies Toshiba LeCoste which advertises expensive clothing New Man Apparently shops dealers biggest business after opened With freedom comes exploitation In contrast West still signs World War II East Berlin Buildings remain pocked bullet shell marks A buildings restored their condition But buildings enormous Berlin Information monstrosities similar those amFernsehturm Moscow I suspectedthesetypesof Mowdeun_ctmapolastBer1 I showJ ngblankspace buildings designed azeai bureaucrats rather architects At famous Neu Wacht New Watch monument Germans fighting fascism militarism goose stepping soldiers stood guard steps In their place someone placedtelevi screens videos Here artifice prevails Government buildings abandoned because there East German government Signs proclaim buildings Closed because asbestos I CVR Surveillance cameras mounted posts outside entrance abandoned government building pointing toward shuttered doors The wires ulled rendering cameras useless East German restaurants stayopen West But I different places before I found anyfood serve scrambled In plaza East Berlin American evangelical singing group The Kelly Family Ma Pop children entertaining large crowd gospel tunes Peeking beneath their portable stage I discovered synching recorded The East Berliners Facades seemed Unification profound implications German refugee policy West Germany accepted ethnic Germans East Europe another settlers East Germany In addition Germany recorded requests asylum highest history according United Nations High Commission Refugees These refugees Turkish guest workers invited menial West Berlin Vendors selling history Berlin Wall November ThereisanationalisticmoodemerginginGerman andwithitamovetotighten asylum Roll Bindemann director AfghanistanlCommunications Cultural center Berlin CV 1970s targets foreign sentiment The coming means funds channeled East Germany situation turns worse because labor office refugees German person explains Rolf Bindemann director theentitled Afghanistan Communications Cultural Center Afghanisches Kommunikations Kulturze ntrum Berlin Whether deserved East Germans reputation racism right politics To matters worse Turkish quarter which outskirts West Berlin become prime estate heart since collapse There nationalistic emerging Germany tighten asylum Bindemann You stuff They breathe occupy apartments should throw White crosses where Berlin Wall stooa tribute those trying escape CVR Other concerns about unification voiced during discussions smokey cafes talking scholars Free University Berlin Most express wariness about political unification Some predict German Russian economic military alliance Said The French along They always Already German universities hosting conferences which German speakers excluded One argued U S Persian Gulf attempt U S defensive military position future Soviet German alliance This theory seems fetched since doesn explain U S pulling troops Germany putting Saudi Arabia Overall I cannot predict reunification going Germany Europe refugees there But seems certain history being Germany almost quickly being erased Regards Page photograph purchased anonymous East German woman All others taken C V Rose Received Hanover