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10/1/1997 - Along the Way to Guizhou: Impressions from Shanghai to Southwest China by Daniel B. Wright

Along Way Guizhou Impressions Shanghai Southwest China GUIZHOU China OCTOBER Mr Peter Bird Martin Executive Director Institute Current World Affairs West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 USA Dear Peter For multitudes streamed passed strolled along Shanghai Bund evening October China National Day issues their country backward interior regions their minds Why should their minds anyway For I however wandered through celebrants young children strapped backs backpacks could think nothing China hinterland dominated thoughts mountainous Guizhou Province Southwest China country poorest regions final destination The Shanghai celebration festive Like block party along Zhong Shan Road which parallels river front Shanghainese appeared masse enjoy merriment school raced through crowds batting other inflatable oversized hammers beachballs young couples their child around candy plastic strips elderly couples walked content seemingly oblivious entire commotion under flash lights which street Times Square New York City What thinking about I continued wonder activity continued swarm around For I suspect enjoyment school preeminent I mused actually contemplating important National Day celebration marked Deng Xiaoping finally Marx Hong Kong returned Chinese sovereignty Fifteenth Party Congress which convenes every years evaluate deter policy leadership direction concluded Jiang Zemin would first Chinese state visit United States dozen years History already shown further prove crucial China states Liu Ji advisor President Jiang Zemin president Chinese Academy Social Sciences preface recently published entitled Crucial Moment Twenty seven Greatest Problems China Today This seller intended think piece China leadership prehensive survey problems China today Of twenty seven issues presented Crucial Moment China regional development floating population unemployment state owned enterprises peasant problems Listen Dan Wright description highlights years student Chinese language literature Shang Beijing There relationships juncture professors patiently taught intricacies language opened doors Chinese society culture government officials confidence their homes express challenges ership farmers allowed participate their farmwork refreshment evening swims their ponds level managers state owned enterprise included participant honorary member their factory fishing association friendships norities helped better cated scribbling Chinese forth tattered insights intellectuals through colleagues I worked translator Foreign Language Bureau Beijing During years family living impoverished Duyun remote Guizhou Prov Dan these others local reality And though I among report grassroots Duyun I intend travel widely government officials local provincial central In doing I report servations context derstand difficulties small tucked Han dominated society young misty hills Guizhou woman missing larger context China interior begged route I China interior quented I communi force China complex reality which directly involve China interior occupy conspicuous position China decision makers their advisors begun realize address downside statement Deng Xiaoping rationalize coastal growth strategy Certain areas certain groups people should encouraged prosper first The leadership apparently cannot longer attention pressing needs longings comparisons those prosper majority country interior Indeed China interior continues rapidly poorer relative coast leading Chi economists predict expanding narrow until between remain tremendously important overall development future country lurks enlarging shadow rather policy priority So whether aware I thought I observed masses flowed around future Shanghai China coast inextricably bound evolving realities China hinterland Before evening celebration settled I boarded riverboat departure would hours Yangtze River small northern Yangtze called Kou translated mouth central Jiangsu Province thirds Shanghai Nanjing The Shanghai night lights powered night striking river solid downtown New York style buildings which front Bund appeared serene embarrassed dressed flashing lights other river ominous meter Oriental Pearl TV Tower landmark New Pudong Area combines giant something Star Trek stood erect night colorful lights racing The spent derful family reunion especially because allowed little Margaret years Jon months their grandparents The visit important portunity reflect growth Jiangsu Prov Since summer I married I traveled Kou numerous times Like Jiangsu Province China coast economic growth little exploded I particularly impressed strategic economic planning denced continued development infra structure telecommunication transportation energy supply primary bottlenecks further growth Improvements transpor tation obvious recently completed super highways bridges widened roads supplement traditional canal networks Yangtze River where Grand Canal joins Yangtze The people I spoke Kou proud their accomplishments An official Gao Gang Harbor which links Kou river explained since Gao Gang Kou under China interior refers China central western provinces shaded those areas people China among those Deng Xiaoping encouraged prosper first Leading Chinese economists predict relative wealth coastal interior China begin narrow until between administrative umbrella Taizhou City within their sights surpass nearby Zhangjiagang China model urban Our known model known garden harbor official boasted The prospects Taizhou surpassing Zhangjiagang aspect extremely doubtful thought however significant flects drive pride patch China The Jiangsu Province stopovers Shanghai provided important opportunity obser vation reflection status China coast Throughout visit coast though question Why interior China matter anyway question years filtered everything I observed flavored conversations Though previously convinced China interior region essential accurate understanding China until I began prepare departure U S I began appreciate backward China hinterland consid especially Chinese themselves At going dinner behalf Chinese diplomat friends Washington DC friend Northeast China I Guizhou Terrible You better yourself mentally prepared Poor backward hopeless others moaned I began think actly because China hinterland relatively backward understand Relative wealth uneven development bustible dynamics particularly society change frenetic population large China In China increased mobility access television which increased dramatically during reform period especially since 1980s agitated perception regional differences A natural result therefore potential friction stability minimum country Though average person coast dismiss interior discussions among China decision makers demonstrated Crucial Moment recent policies specifically target interior Ninth Five Year Plan demonstrate interior better understood China future addressed The domestic international implications profound Gone privilege interior could ignored without consequence In United States guilty misjudging China through simplistic analysis generalizations history U S China relations three recent years Washington DC convince The complexity contradiction magnitude China culturally linguistically I often think China verse Europe under require thoughtful consideration How quickly ample reality impact China million farmers every people world lives rural China So China interior In deliberations about China develop capacity think beyond Beijing Shanghai Guangzhou considering challenges opportunities enormous evolving country Understanding ignorance power The results however drastically different How relationship China The morning before family I Shanghai Guiyang capital Guizhou Province breakfast visit Cheng Li friend former Institute Current World Affairs Fel It encouragement sense camaraderie passing ICWA baton quest deeply understand China dimensions As gether savoring espresso nibbling toasted bagels Cheng Li indicator Shanghai veloped I choice Duyun confirmed consistent response I ceived fellowship preparation When I Chinese friends relatives diplomats planned years inevitable reply Come again again write haven heard They heard their country population Knoxville Portland Tulsa Granted population dissimilarity between U S China skews comparison about everyone I spoke heard Duyun people unusual pleasure The flight China Southwest Airlines Shang Guiyang surprised because I accus tomed transportation China filled people flight about percent The flight attendants Sichuan based confirmed flights Guiyang Interesting As approach Guiyang airport raced fields which steep mountains stair cases reminded indeed different China The rainy weather greeted precious The recently completed international airport currently services charter flights Hong Kong every negotiations foreign countries pleted vastly improved transportation Guizhou Province The impressive facility embellished glossy brown marble floors though empty illustrates specific measures taken enhance Guizhou contacts outside It demonstrates enormous bringing capital improvements Guizhou The which slices through kilometers hills airport downtown Guiyang million approximately U S million twice amount needed relatively Guangdong Prov without investment return incen Unlike urrounding provinces Southwest China Guizhou completely locked disadvantaged access interna tional other domestic markets Yunnan Province Mekong River borders Myanmar Laos Vietnam Si chuan Province north Yangtze River Guangxi Province south borders Vietnam South China Sea Even Tibet benefit border trade Nepal Guizhou isolation tainous terrain percent province arable create extremely difficult conditions nomic growth As result province consistently ranks among poorest provinces China lowest capita GDP country At airport greeted friendly Mr Chen general manager hotel Guiy I hosted visit Washing DC As entered airport memory airline attendants lipstick outfits airplane interior powder seats suddenly seemed bright especially clean It color television watching hours earlier colors Shanghai crackled sizzled popped black white I tempted window I could bring color Drizzle portion Guiyang drove through looked slums Guiyang those other areas province little Hong Kong If little Hong Kong I thought I wonder Duyun I later found Duyun called little Guiyang those surrounding counties It after matter perspective right Our general manager friend hosted evening hotel His hospitality strange Dinner revolving restau floor Guiyang replete flavor dishes plenty chili pepper Guizhou Sichuan Hunan share these pungent little vegetables Mr Chen excited hotel years apprentice relationship White Swan Guang luxury hotel located around corner U S consulate Much hotel physical design management training under guidance White Swan The morning break before boarded train Duyun Mr Chen twinkle baozi Chinese breakfast dumpling restaurant hotel ground floor through relationship baozi company coastal Tianjin Here again airport intentional links outside China coast designed stimulate Guizhou growth development After since arriving Duyun I Qiannan Miao Buyi Autonomous Prefecture which Duyun cooperative relationship Shen economic Hong Kong averaged dizzying percent growth since 1980s The train Guiyang Duyun threaded steep expansive mountains river valleys farmers plows water buffalo After hours train slowed arrived destination Tim Debbie Vinzani their children friends America lived Duyun years greeted They introduced school officials helped luggage towards college After climbing steps apartment which perched mountain looks school build My greatest impression Duyun short three weeks intriguing contrast diversity In Duyun reminds Institute Current World Affairs China coastal during 1970s early 1980s foreigners still gawked citizens still green Mao jackets there foreign shops foreign advertising lunch break still lasts Bank China Duyun Branch American Express In other aspects Duyun everything China 1990s private enterprise karaoke video arcades mahjong VCR rental shops fashions Shanghai Hong Kong platform shoes moment I suspect peoples attitudes values reflect interesting these periods Though Duyun considered urban shoulder poles horse carts common bicycles Sunday still market which folks tryside Duyun their wares roosters through streets their owners Duyun small small sandwiched between mountains along river basin As capital autonomous prefecture Duyun melting ethnicity Of people Duyun percent ethnic minority predominantly Buyi Miao Shui The remaining percent Han Although ethnic minority peoples Han diversity appearance dress fascinating On surface least Duyun seems quite content diversity Despite backward status compared China coast Duyun economy improved greatly although country plagued state enterprise quandary Those biggest changes since consistent China Like people tendency however comparisons often horizon provincial capital Guiyang coastal areas Guangzhou Shenzhen Shanghai rather verti where themselves People Duyun outlying areas Qiann speak casually about traveling coast China massive internal migration Most people I least family member coast search greater opportunity Duyun provides intriguing perspective which goings China interior above provincial regional levels launching point realities hopes struggles Qiannan towns villages Our years Qiannan Education College teacher training college vides three education programs young people college graduates already force number years The college leadership graciously welcomed spend years student researching economic development related policy issues The college itself microcosm province student population represents minorities prefecture counties I begun those outside school student A acquaintance Mr Weng contractor renovated apartment A gifted skilled individual Mr Weng described Shui minority family lives Duyun Mr Weng village expression Duyun risking secure albeit paying money anything coastal provinces He spent construc Jiangsu Province money As sometimes travel coast aimlessly other words wander there floating popula suggests A friend already Jiangsu opportunity Mr Weng estimates friends travel coast after three years Mr Weng stayed coast young called He learned coast practice improvement company Duyun He rents Duyun travels family village weekends While apartment I describe thing wanted Oh I I coast Certainly China migrant labor which received press academic attention should million people strong potential threat social stability From perspective those I Duyun traveling coast search necessity however phenomenon important upside those travel return knowl drive determination Some I never Lao Wen sixties Shui ethnic nority group He village grown years become college janitor strong extra hands around campus Despite lowly position around college returns village three mountains respected valued leader Father daughter family trying their 1990s On second Duyun I witnessed literally I signed witness signing loans provided Lao Wen The loans approved Education Economic Development Ethnic Minorities registered cooperative venture under local ernment start capital traditional family building business ethnic minority privilege Shui required incinerate their funds raise ground floor their custom When friend Tim director simple contract front young father quickly stood right Fifteen minutes later Lao Wen reappeared reading glasses The father document began himself Because never lived outside village could I forward following young progress spend village during course I anticipate active involvement advising significant micro program Tim Debbie Vinzani profit develop organization bustles activity serving Duyun mountain communities Qiannan The provide small loans people money making unable unwilling exorbitant interest rates sharks Similar principle Grameen Bank Bangladesh other credit organizations endeavors provide financial assistance credit training support services operate their small businesses micro enterprises In vides practical opportunities trapped cycle bitter poverty Tim recounts three years began vision provide small loans fully preciated politely ignored local government officials The concept micro loans patiently introduced sympathetic leaders willing permission begin operation In three years grown matured organization count October reached directly involving people their families Furthermore loans successfully repaid interest profit dignity recipient The Qiannan Duyun governments strongly Some officia doubted viability fully recognize organization At recent banquet visiting U S foundation executives former governor serves Qiannan CPPCC Chinese People Political Consultative Conference governmental sultative enthusiastically proclaimed actly doing Qiannan It represents model helping mountain families Qiannan Education College students author background holding daughter Margaret watching attempt school annual sports The school students represent minorities prefecture counties As Duyun contrast diversity grows changes Tim Debbie center trusted people their creatively providing opportunities those never otherwise given prayer The Vinzanis their fulfilling though needs outweigh their resources Their gratifying since I serving consultant since their organization dream stage Tim paper I wrote entitled Lun Pinkun jingji fazhan Paths Economic De velopment China Impoverished Regions present micro concept local authorities To return Duyun after first visit Lao Wen oldest father seated right shakes hands Director Tim Vinzani successful completion application brother launch traditional Shui coffin building business raise first floor their mountain village This others provide appropriate economic assistance urban rural Guizhou Province Qiannan Miao Buyi Autonomous Prefecture healthy progress pleasing indeed I Duyun And I learne instant experts those trips return sorts thoritative pronouncements Nevertheless impres sions beginnings personal journey wisdom understanding about China interior It exactly these lesser known cities similar Duyun throughout Southwest China country hinterland understand going connect create clearer picture China country enters century My fellowship Institute Current World Affairs began exactly years month after former ICWA Fellow Doak Barnett began across China communist revolution To before departing U S summer privilege inspiration My fellowship begins within months death Deng Xiaoping return Hong Kong Chinese sovereignty decisions Party Congress state owned enterprise reform particular significance China interior first visit Chinese state United States twelve years My fellowship conclude China anniversary October The weightiness these dates feels immense China poorly understood hinterland weighs heavily important China country internal development place international order These three weeks impressions appetite delve deeply realities struggles longings people Southwest China As Insti Current World Affairs Fellow China south quite journey Sincerely Index ICWA Letters Daniel Wright Entries refer ICWA Letter DBW Letter number given before entry B Bank China baozi Chinese breakfast dumpling Barnett Doak Bund Buyi C China Southwest Airlines CPPCC Chinese People Political Consultative Conference D Deng Xiaoping Duyun E economic conditions trends Education Economic Development Ethnic Minorities ethnic groups See Buyi Han Miao Shui F Fifteenth Party Congress G Gao Gang Harbor geography Grand Canal Guangxi Guangzhou Guiyang Guizhou H Han Hong Kong J Jiang Zemin Jiangsu K Kou L Laos Li Cheng lifestyles Liu Ji M Mao jackets Mekong River Miao micro credit micro enterprises migrant labor Myanmar N Nanjing National Day celebration New Pudong Area Ninth Five Year Plan O Oriental Pearl TV Tower P capita GDP population provinces China See Guangxi Guizhou Jiangsu Sichuan Tibet Yunnan Q Qiannan Qiannan Education College Qiannan Miao Buyi Autonomous Prefecture R rivers See Mekong Yangtze S Shanghai Shenzhen Shui Sichuan South China Sea Southwest Airlines T Taizhou City Tianjin Tibet V Vietnam Vinzani Debbie Tim W White Swan hotel Y Yangtze River Yunnan Z Zhangjiagang Institute Current World Affairs Fellows their Activities Adam Smith Albion A former research associate Institute EastWest Studies Prague Czech Republic Adam studying writing about republics Central Asia their impor tance actors within without former Soviet A Harvard graduate History Adam completed first M Litt Degree Russian East European history guages Oxford University EUROPE RUSSIA Christopher P Ball An economist Chr Ball holds B A University Alabama Huntsville attended International Summer School London School Economics He studied Hungarian years Budapest while serving Project Director Hun garian Atlantic Council As Institute Fel studying writing about Hungarian minorities former Soviet nations East Central Europe EUROPE RUSSIA Chenoa Egawa An enrolled member Lummi Indian Nation Chenoa spending years living among mesoAmerican Indians studying cessful successful cooperative organizations designed Indi market their manufactures agricul tural products crafts without relying middlemen A former trade specialist American Indian Trade Devel opment Council Pacific Northwest Chenoa B A International Business Spanish University Wash ington Seattle THE AMERICAS Marc Michaelson A program manager Save Children The Gambia Marc moved across Africa Horn there assess nation building Eritrea Ethiopia conditions permitting availing unavailing manitarian efforts northern Somalia southern Sudan With B A political science Tufts degree study London School Econom Master International Peace Studies Notre Dame describes postgraduate years seven years experience international development programming peace research SAHARA Randi Movich The current John Miller Musser Memorial Forest Society Fellow Randi spending years Guinea West Africa studying writing about which indigenous women forest resources reproductive health With B A biology University California Santa Cruz Master Science degree Forest Resources University Idaho Randi building years experience Peace Corps agroforestry extension agent region Guinea where living Fellow husband Jeff Fields holder Idaho Master Forest Resources SAHARA John B Robinson A Harvard graduate certificate proficiency Institute KiSwahili Zanzibar John spent years English teacher Tanzania He received Master degree Creative Writing Brown University He Delphine French oceanographer spending years Madagascar their young Nicolas Rowland where writing about varied aspects island nation struggle survive industrial natural resource exploitation effects rapidly swelling population SA HARA Daniel B Wright A sinologist Master Degree International Relations Nitze School Advanced International Studies Johns Hopkins University Dan fellowship immerses southwest China Guizhou Province where journalist Shou Guowei their children Margaret Jon themselves years Duyun Previously specialist Asian Chinese affairs Washington consulting Andreae Vick Associates Dan studied Chinese literature Beijing University holds Master Divinity degree Fuller Theological Seminary Pasadena California East Asia Teresa C Yates A former member American Civil Liberties Union national force workplace Teresa spending years South Africa serving reporting efforts Mandela government reform tional tenure system A Vassar gradu juris doctor University Cincinnati College Law Teresa internship Centre Applied Legal Studies Johannesburg studying feasibility including social economic rights South African constitution SAHARA Institute Current World Affairs FOUR WEST WHEELOC K STREET HANOVER NEW HAMPSHIRE 03755 ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED Chosen basis character previous experience promise Institute Fellows young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment international events issues Author Wright Daniel B Title ICWA Letters East Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions Sub Saharan Africa South Asia Mideast North Africa Europe Russia The Americas ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York S offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Phone Program Administrator Gary L Hansen Fax Publications Manager Ellen Kozak E Mail ICWA valley Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission