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11/1/1997 - Colorful Guizhou by Daniel B. Wright

Colorful Guizhou Not three three without family three grams silver centuries Chinese saying about Guizhou Province GUIZHOU China NOVEMBER By Daniel B Wright I always intrigued fickleness perspective Our first month southwest China Guizhou Province again reminds reality Duyun City which seemed uniform first arrived somehow given distinctive shades contrasts Now there carbon black white overcast grease brown sludge orange dirty brick changing mountain Against colorful backdrop occasional wildflowers tender green vegetables chili peppers easily passed first arrived announce their beauty vitality Indeed Guizhou Province beginning better beginning Guizhou So person I encountered There couple their village wedding could their anticipation mayor whose about begin operation Asia phosphorous could voice sunken farmer turned urban laborer earlier century would referred coolie totes others burdens pushcart trembling hands communicated difficulties dignity elderly ethnic minority woman matriarch people posture reflected unusual background cynicism driver abandoned flounder state owned factory driving voice revealed frustrations As stories individual I encountered Guiyang Duyun Yingpan village blended together unique social landscape egins emerge This panorama though painted broadest brush strokes neverthe subtlety dimension Yet overlook complex depth seemingly obvious present Indeed family background personal experience national history shape person walks street hands oranges across stall drives across hosts village While tapping section newsletter computer bright middle fixing plumbing problems apartment arrived Mr Yang Miao ethnic minority village neighboring prefecture With forma influence importance obvious fresh Mr Yang I I Mr Yang I learning about Guizhou recent history He seemed curious I quizzed When replied That beginning Grea Leap Forward Did affect people mountains Yes Is people starved Guizhou period Yes You special Mom helped survive through period especially vulnerable Yes My older brothers I survived father starved death I years My mother never remarried raised herself If Dad I probably wouldn leave village Things would better Mr Yang plumber talented honest working He walked through apartment numerous times before But until today I single dimension coming repair And while struck impact father tragic death I reminded Guizhou century history aggregate sonal experience contains innumerable stories suffering truggle survival pride progress As point departure therefore better understand contours Guizhou present realities better consider China future I compelled beneath surface Guizhou present EARLY CENTURY CHAOS Like rests Guizhou first several decades century stupefied opium under sical reign warlords Not there Guizhou flourished frontier region always known harsh mountain terrain scarce rocky farmland lawlessness But matters worse Guizhou century China existed political vacuum Qing dynasty collapsed competitors vacancy struggle chaos abuse pervasive The warlords fought constantly depended their private armies their ability ontrol armies survival depended could countryside The peasant reality forced Guizhou peasants already bitterly What little bartered support widespread debilitating opium Harrison E Salisbury The Long March The Untold Story recounts This Guizhou opium country Here Peas Zeng observed almost everyone fifteen above smoked opium They outside their puffing their pipes glazed women teenagers The teenag often nothing cloths women The opium piled brown stacks sheds Nothing opium Guizhou saturated It deadened drugged mobilized naked drenched armies The warlord troops Guizhou known rifle other opium Guizhou warlords power opium bilized Guizhou first several decades The havoc oppression resulted excluding ethnic group unimaginable 1940s WAR Through 1930s 1940s warlords opium commingled growing civil multaneously Japanese occupation oppression Japan efforts China colony which seeped northeast China coast inland functioned intermittently battling Communist Kuomintang Nationalist parties united front But whatever alignment Chinese against Japanese Chinese against Chinese again people suffered through The common person became cannon fodder crops often confiscated gunpoint hungry invader In midst turbulent period struggling movement young communist women under constant threat enemy starvation straggled Guizhou Province Just months before their followers encircled assaulted million Kuomintang troops bombed hundred planes Jiangxi Province Kuomintang power The offensive Kuomintang attempt annihilate growing commu Harrison E Salisbury The Long March The Untold Story London Macmillan THE LONG MARCH The Long March Red Army strategic retreat grueling southeast China desolate caves Yan northwest China Sha Province Eighty ninety percent those began march deserted perished along The Long March significant Guizhou because though Kuomintang would control Guizhou until their final defeat China future leadership became familiar Guizhou terrain people Guizhou people became acquainted goals values Communist Party The result Guizhou fully integrated Chinese national movement In October survivors broke through enemy lines scattering escape Chiang Kai planes forth strategic retreat Long March through China interior When Red Army entered Guizhou however eventual success means parent In Red Army arrived Guizhou narrowly escaped total defeat In Zunyi Red Army leaders meeting later referred Zunyi Conference Janu debate their steps Some partici pants advocated Kuomintang engage decisive battle Mao Zedong however clearly persuasively articulated guerrilla tactics strategic retreat Kuomintang further interior The decision follow Mao Zedong proved means survival Red Army Mao emerged decisively Zunyi leader Communist Revolution Edgar Snow Ameri journalist whose classic Red Star Over China based interviews movement leaders describes magnitude accomplishment Altogether Reds crossed mountain ranges which perennially capped crossed rivers They passed through difference provinces occupied cities broke through enveloping armies different provincial warlords besides defeating eluding outmaneuvering various forces Central Government troops against They entered successfully crossed different aboriginal districts etrated areas through which Chinese scores years However about Reds represent politi cally impossible recognition their Long March great exploits military history Just grass began trail Long March however effort Japanese 1930s complete colonize China drove Edgar Snow Red Star China New York Grove dreds thousands coastal Chinese refuge China interior Precedent Kuomintang Party which relocated headquarters Nanjing Chongqing Sichuan Province Communist Party which settled Yan An internal migration extraordinary Com munist Long March ensued For continuous people carrying goods children coast interior Entire classes coastal university students trudged cross country relocate campuses hopefully beyond reach Japanese Key factories disassembled workers packed crates dragged cross country One account reports entire textile packed junks transported Yangtze River A third boats Yangtze rapids raised repacked started their again In winter after Japanese surge Guizhou Province enemy advance Guizhou frozen mountain roads Overextended across Asia Japanese discovered finally begun against They withdrew completely China later Thereafter Guizhou scene protracted civil which greatest menace Guizhou people besides hunger became bandits In sence order bands marauders ganized others politically motivated others material reward plundered little throughout Guizhou POST LIBERATION Two weeks I elderly woman early fought these bandits effort store order justice southern Guizhou Meng Shihua stout tough woman stood inches adventures guerrilla warfare against bandits after Communist Party victory establishment People Republic China after liberation Caught guard woman guerrilla warrior I stumbled Wow tough Difficult slapped smile It ruthless gradually eliminated In Ms Meng became mayor county Sandu Shui Minority Autonomous County southeastern Qiannan Prefecture She served position until Sandu autonomous Shui county country Shui people Sandu County Over dinner evening Mayor Meng shared occasion perhaps greatest moment In invitation China State Council selected represent Shui people China ethnic groups attend three Meng Shihua matriarch Shui people author family during visit Ms Meng served mayor Guizhou Sandu County Labor Day celebration Beijing This first country capital As people government leaders bottles Sandu County specialty Jiuqian tujiu grown Jiuqian District A after arrival organizers heard young Shui minority woman brought He arranged young woman dressed traditional costume offer toast Chairman Mao Zedong celebration important banquet final evening Zhongnanhai Communist Party primary office compound senior Party leaders China equivalent White House She described encounter vividly I I grand chair waiting through called offer toast I asked nervous during She grinned No I brave And organizer reviewed advance shown respectfully table after presenting toast I prepared waited patiently Those seated around I about probably wondered though I quiet I beforehand about honor I given When moment attendant tapped shoulder I stood walked toward front crowded toward table where Chairman Mao Zedong President Liu Shaoqi Premier Zhou Enlai other leaders seated The waiter poured Chairs table According Shui custom women their toasts So standing there Chairman Mao towered above taller I tradi tional toast native language something I I really offer sweat As recalled experience picked celain glass dinner table weathered continued Normally toast would climbed crescendo hooray celebration mouth But I pleted Chairman Mao suddenly raised stopping motion Instead inhaling drink first sipped asked I replied grown county Guizhou He paused tastes sweet raising glass tilted drank The ballroom erupted applause entire place seemed shake As I shown I light I floating I asked Ms Meng there picture taken encounter She replied Yes there I taken excitement there tears large kernels streaming cheeks could photograph But Red Guards confiscated picture during Cultural Revolution It things For Ms Meng profound event moment incredible affirmation bandit fighting country turned mayor mountains southwest China suddenly toasting important Meng Shihua Labor Day celebration Beijing second Mao Zedong outfit clapping looking towardsMao Ms Meng standing immediately Mao Zedong front President Liu Shaoqi behind Meng photo suddenly before photographer snapped camera young Mongolian burst through second almost knocking Chairman I restrained myself The others picture representatives other ethnic minority groups dressed traditional costume Note Zhu De standing Zhu De Mao Zedong chief military advisor Comm ander Chief People Liberation Army person entire country After liberation establishment People Republic China Guizhou Province became fully integrated national When I asked former county level mayor experi paralleled country after sponded experienced reform Great Leap Forward Cultural Revolution reform In probably enthusiastic other areas China carrying these policies Perhaps referring radical cataclysmic policies Great Leap Forward subsequent famine during which between people nationwide likely largest famine human history History shows Guizhou leaders though cautious beginning Great Leap For accelerated their implementation Great Leap policies became provinces country This demonstrated implementation eating touchstone communal living during Great Leap period By percent Guizhou people eating halls Guizhou exemplary pursuit these dining halls noticed Mao Zedong called entire nation emulate Guizhou Province Unfortunately devastating results Great Leap policy reached national extremes Guizhou Ac cording Dali Yang Calamity Reform China Guizhou mortality population respec tively among highest country Compared The Great Leap Forward attempt launched Mao Zedong raise economic productivity dramatically through organization revolutionary fervor For extensive study Great Leap Forward subsequent famine effect peasant leadership attitud Dali L Yang Calamity Reform Stanford Stanford University Press Ibid DBW Beijing Shanghai coastal Jiangsu Province demonstrate Great Leap Famine first foremost rural calamity Yet again rural Guizhou Province which meant about every suffered tragically 1970S THIRD FRONT AND CULTURAL REVOLUTION As China hobbled 1960s Mao Zedong increasingly concerned China vulnerable attack foreign forces China relationship Soviet Union turned broken United States increasingly involved Viet Chairman Mao concerned Taiwan might advantage Great Leap Forward crisis launch attack mainland coastal cities In August weeks after United States escalated bombing raids North Vietnam Mao Zedong convened special meeting which called rapid development Third Front industrial structure inland China including reloca coastal industries chine building factories development electric power construction railroads through Sichuan Guizhou Yunnan The objective therefore Third Front construction tinguished first lines defense China coast create entire system within country remote strategically secure region China mountainous hinterland Mao ordered implemented maximum speed It As China seethed turmoil Cultural Revolution average percent annum China national investment during those years poured accelerated development strategic industrial network aggressive trally planned investment programs For Guizhou Province addition intellectuals countryside Guizhou during Cultural Revolution Third Front construction brought infusion infrastructure immigrants skilled engineers factories I countered numerous individuals migrated Guizhou their families during period I heard there factories where Beijing Shanghai accent common local Guizhou accent The significant contribution massive influx skill capital Guizhou development undeni Guizhou experienced positive growth since The years REFORM Guizhou history For Guizhou masses matter entire country urban rural pragmatic peace reform minded Deng Xiaoping Deng prosperous least dramatic increase years standard living investment program Yet nomic decisions based perceived external threat little consideration given profitability sustain ability planted seeds eventual problems When political atmosphere China changed rationale Third Front construction disappeared central government modified 1970s abandoned 1970s early 1980s inland development strategy Instead precedence under Deng Xiaoping given coast based growth strategy approach looked outward inward Though inland industries creatively found coastal factories economic irrationality extension Third Front capital construction continue create tremendous In ticular enterprises become unsustain welfare institutions destined without inexhaustible supply funds through province Today legacy Third Front factories Guizhou major reform dilemma LATE 1970S TO PRESENT Without basic understanding chaos bitterness Guizhou century history however impossible appreciate relative peace prosperity joyed The years Guizhou history matter entire country peaceful prosperous least years This however minimize problems persist Guizhou tragedy abuse misplaced scars Add floundering state owned enterprises which cannot their workers salaries benefits intractable rural poverty enlarging wealth disparity urban rural inland coastal growing corruption crime gnawing vacuum belief Guizhou Province country plate challenges enters century But midst Guizhou going drama Mr Yang lumber continue leaks farmer turned laborer strain front loaded pushcart mayor utmost through prepara phosphorous driver continue sidewalks customers For depth discussion China Third Front construction Barry Naughton The Third Front Defence Industrialization Chinese Interior The China Quarterly September Institute Current World Affairs NING FAMILY PORTRAIT The wedding grand occasion entire Ning family Our Jon somehow I slipped family portrait sitting woman front couples continue married The layers memory experience shaped these people others across province require understanding going begin compre present An appreciation which below surface their lives moreover necessary accurately consider future Guizhou region Of events I witnessed I enjoyed village DBW WEDDING COUPLE Singing continues through ceremony couple clothes their clothes represent their lives Bundles bride groom shoulder above threshold background family portrait hanging doorway wedding beginning couple shaking feasting village families enjoyed slaughtered crackers gifts As I congratulated parents grand parents I could recall would experienced warlords bandits Great Leap famine Cultural Revolution reform As thoughts hardship hunger entered gaiety laughter plentiful filled appreciation peace occasion better tomorrow FAMILY PICTURE Parents bride seated youngest daughter newlywed daughter The wearing Miao headdress arrived before cultural wedding after legal wedding An older brother oldest three children village China coast search money China floating population PROUD GRANDPARENTS Familiarity events shaped groom grandparents lives appreciate opportunity speak This elderly couple eight still living Index ICWA Letters Daniel Wright Entries refer ICWA Letter DBW Letter number given before entry B Bank China baozi Chinese breakfast dumpling Barnett Doak Beijing Bund Buyi C Calamity Reform China Chiang Kai China So uthwest Airlines Chongqing Communist CPPCC Chinese People Political Consultative Conference Cultural Revolution D Dali Yang Deng Xiaoping Duyun E economic conditions trends Education Economic Development Ethnic Minorities ethnic groups See Buyi Han Miao Shui F Fifteenth Party Congress Fuquan City G Gao Gang Harbor geography Grand Canal Great Leap Forward Guangxi Guangzhou guerrilla warfare Guiyang Guizhou Province H Han Hong Kong history J Japanese occupation Jiang Zemin Jiangsu Province Jiangxi Province Jiaotong University Jiuqian tujiu grown K Kou Kuomintang party L Laos Li Cheng lifestyles Liu Ji Liu Shaoqi M Mao jackets Mao Zedong Mekong River Meng Shihua eating Miao micro credit micro enterprises migrant labor mortality Myanmar N Nanjing National Day celebration New Pudong Area Ninth Five Year Plan North Vietnam O opium Oriental Pearl TV Tower P parties People Liberation Army capita GDP population provinces China See Guangxi Guizhou Jiangsu Jiangxi Sha Sichuan Tibet Yunnan Q Qiannan Qiannan Education College Qiannan Miao Buyi Autonomous Prefecture Qing dynasty R Red Army Red Guards Red Star Over China rivers See Mekong Yangtze S Salisbury Harrison E Sandu Shui Minority Autonomous County Sha Province Shanghai Shenzhen Shihua Meng Shui Sichuan Province Snow Edgar South China Sea Southwest Airlines Soviet Union T Taiwan Taizhou City The Long March The Long March The Untold Story Third Front industrial structure Tianjin Tibet V Vietnam Vinzani Debbie Tim W warlords White Swan hotel Y Yan Yangtze river Yingpan village Yunnan Province Z Zemin Jiang Zhangjiagang Zhongnanhai Zhou Enlai Zhu De Zunyi Zunyi Conference Institute Current World Affairs FOUR WEST WHEELOCK STREET HANOVER NEW HAMPSHIRE 03755 ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED Institute Current World Affairs Fellows their Activities Adam Smith Albion A former research associate Institute EastWest Studies Prague Czech Repub Adam studying writing about republics Central Asia their importance actors within without former Soviet A Harvard graduate History Adam completed first M Litt Degree Russian East European history languages Oxford University EUROPE RUSSIA Christopher P Ball An economist Chris Ball holds B A University Alabama Huntsville attended International Summer School London School Economics He studied Hungarian years Budapest while serving Project Director Hungarian Atlantic Council As Institute Fel studying writing about Hungarian minori former Soviet nations East Central Europe EUROPE RUSSIA Chenoa Egawa An enrolled member Lummi In Nation Chenoa spending years living among mesoAmerican Indians studying successful successful cooperative organizations designed Indians market their manufactures agricultural crafts without relying middlemen A former trade specialist American Indian Trade De velopment Counci Pacific Northwest Chenoa B A International Business Spanish University Washington Seattle THE AMERICAS Marc Michaelson A program manager Save Children The Gambia Marc moved across Africa Horn there assess nation building Eritrea Ethiopia conditions permitting availing unavailing humanitarian efforts northern Somalia southern Sudan With B A political science Tufts degree study London School Economics Master International Peace Studies Notre Dame describes postgradu years seven years experience international development programming peace research SAHARA Randi Movich The current John Miller Musser Memorial Forest Society Fellow Randi spending years Guinea West Africa studying writing about which indigenous women forest resources reproductive health With B A biology University California Santa Cruz Master Science degree Forest Resources University Idaho Randi building years experience Peace Corps agroforestry extension agent region Guinea where living Fellow husband Jeff Fields holder Idaho Master Forest Resources SAHARA John B Robinson A Harvard graduate tificate proficiency Institute KiSwahili Zanzibar John spent years English teacher Tanzania He received Master degree Creative Writing Brown University He Delphine French oceanographer spending years Madagascar their young Nicolas Rowland where writing about varied pects island nation struggle survive industrial natural resource exploitation effects swelling population SAHARA Daniel B Wright A sinologist Master Degree Inter national Relations Nitze School Advanced International Studies Johns Hopkins University Dan fellowship immerses southwest China Guizhou Province where journalist Shou Guowei their children Margaret Jon themselves years Duyun Previously specialist Asian Chinese affairs Washington consulting Andreae Vick Associates Dan studied Chinese literature Beijing University holds Master Divinity degree Fuller Theological Seminary Pasadena California East Asia Teresa C Yates A former member American Civil Liberties Union national force workplace Teresa spending years South Africa observing reporting efforts Mandela government reform national tenure system A Vassar graduate juris doctor University Cin cinnati College Law Teresa internship Centre Applied Legal Studies Johannesburg studying feasibility including social economic rights South African constitution SAHARA Chosen basis character previous experience promise Institute Fellows young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment international events issues Author Wright Daniel B Title ICWA Letters East Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions Sub Saharan Africa South Asia Mideast North Africa Europe Russia The Americas ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current Wor Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Phone Program Administrator Gary L Hansen Fax Publications Manager Ellen Kozak E Mail ICWA valley Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission