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12/1/1986 - A Dose of Gossip; A Walk Around Cairo by Dirk J. Vandewalle

INSTITUTE OF CURRENTWORLD AFFAIRS DJV American Research Center Egypt Midan Kasr Doubara Sarden City Cairo December I786 A DOSE OF GOSSIP A WALK AROUND CAIRO Mr Peter Martin Institute Current World Af Wheelock House West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 Dear Peter After temporary Egypt itical described previous reports bicker washed unity It month unsubstantiated gossip according whether source gossip perpetrator victim rigorously affirmed contemptuously denied To detail dslinging mudracking taken since wrote would ICWA printing budget firmly rather sketch related incidents brightening normally uneventful breakfats Both extent instrucrive because touch derlying aspects seemingly innocuous events Egypt political The background first incident simple When Hosni Mubarak presidency Anwar Sadat promised continue democratic eperiment predecessor started final years The periment involved emergence opposition parties opposition newspapers hinted several reports there meets As pointed DJV several mechanisms prevent opposition parties having impact It clear Mubarak government pressured democratizing political economi realities prevent Rhetoric almost always outpaces reality So press beneficiary toward democracy With hands mouths editors opposition papers grabbed opportunity thrown Mubarak The result pectedly The opposition newspapers often outrageous often irresponsible charges countr Egypt would serious libel charges court cases Even Egypt unwritten agreement topics presidency military above criticism challenged Dirk Vandewalle North Africa Fellow Institute Current World Affairs His interest political economy Egypt North Africa particular development strategies Egypt Algeria Libya Tunisia Morocco decades Until months overwhelming majority articles abided these informal rules Then about three months A Wafd paper New Wafd party announced would longer agree unofficial censorship government sponsored newspapers persisted attacking leadership A Wafd reasons complain For several years government papers written deflamatory articles Fuad Serag AI Din eader New Wafd party Then mattters Other opposition newspapers seized pportunity stretch acceptable norms plain manners beyond their limits A number articles editorials appeared critical Mubarak himself demanding public information military matters A weeks Mubarak unleashed campaign against called irresponsible journalism And since AI Taliah As Shaab Islamic opposition papers challenging government continue democratic experiment their recent spate articles Mubarak eager preserve image democratic leadership internally external caught horns dilemma To matters worse first incident Wafd party leadership centered paper campaign expose corruption among people close Mubarak The facts straightforward For number weeks A Wafd published series articles exposing illegal dealings Abdu Rahman Al Baydani Baydani Egypt bestknown businessmen whose close connections government Nasser His activities became frontpage scandal erupted Alexandria sewage system After spending several million dollars USA D funds consulting reports found unworkable That summer Alexandria beaches inundated originally planned write separate report growing impact military Egypt economy Egypt increasingly called perform number economic tasks public sector cannot perform The phenomenon commonplace country The Egyptian originally achieved sufficiency other necessities Since branched construction activities spilling commercial ventures It estimated years Egyptian military produce dairy products country There however little information available process No figures released matter though whatever earns their coffers falling outside regular budget procedures Beyond economic impact basic social impact interaction It prompted Muhamad Asfour AI Wafd Egypt itary democracy articles decried transfer civilian society behavior current their military environment manage according those criteria sewage With tourist trade already polluted beaches traditionally Egypt citizens their vacations The articles followed generally caustic little regard minimum decorum ourna usually abide One blander entitled Why Does Dinosaur Baydani Escape Punishment On October weeks after beginning renewed Baydani campaign Al Wafd Assitant Editor other employees arrested charge attempting extract pounds Baydani return promise write further exposes One three defendants Farouk Akl New Wafd Party leader Fuad Serag A Din As mentioned above attacks against New Wafd leader started campaign openly attacking government Said Abdei Kha author daily Birdie section which government public figures repeatedly exposed My initial reaction whole affair carefully orchestrated government intelligence services embarrass New Wafd intimidate other editors against similar critical exposures All evidence seemingly corroborated initial judgment The government released pictures taken Assistant Editor Said Abdel Khaieks office showing briefcase money Would anyone foolish arrange offices newspaper A video materialized purportedly showing whole transaction taking place But leaked press sound track synchronized Fuad Serag Al Din himse responded government action meant divert attention Wafd criticism Shura elections expected New Wafd other opposition papers raise outcry against whole matter But surprise single AI Wafd directly Khalek defense A Wafd instead carefully pointed Farouk Ak other defendants longer Fuad Serag A Dins The silence other opposition papers perhaps easily understandable They would position something might prove embarrassing three indeed proven But suspect there large amount indifference involved Egypt opposition press unites certain selected issues communal interests being seriously threatened Although Baydani could precedent drastic actions against press people talked interpreted Some expressed rather short sighted delight AI Wafd corruption charge contend As responsible veteran opposition reporter attempt disunity among opposition press original reasons government alleged frame Khaiek As I finishing report things murky started waver initial conviction Khalek unsuspecting victim government AI Wafd refusal defense misguided attempt protect Fuad Serag A Din costs leaves uncomfortable But perhaps inviduous effect recent government opposition newspaper battle reinforce among observers myself Egypt indeed riddled corruption If small fraction alleged corruption charges detailed papers still raises number serious questions about MubarakSs ability control corruption courageously tackled assumed presidency So Baydani affair leaves government uneasy dilemma If corruption charges against AI Wafd employess heightens confirms suspicion graft still constitutes routine procedure Egypt If charge trumped shows Mubarak government committed democratic experiment espouses The second incident perhaps illustrative constraints Egyptian government labors under these times economic hardship attempted political liberalization It involves Al Rayyan Muslim fundamentalist businessman For years A1 Rayyan carving niche himself Egyptian economy recycling foreign exchange expatriate Egyptians brought country The reason quite obvious He offers substantially above legally imposed limit government banks Rather getting pounds dollar earned Persian Gulf North Africa A1 Rayyan company attempted match market black market Egyptian would dollars other convertible currencies Within years AI Rayyan became multimillionaire started diversify operations His holding companies inside Egypt increasingly atttracted savings inside country large because could promise large returns money deposited In cases investors earned annually To matters worse government Al Rayyan termed business practices alignment Islamic practices The earned annually example never referred intere since Muslims consider usury A1 Rayyan operations quickly became irritation government His savings schemes diverted badly needed money government coffers They exposed inadequacies Egypt financial system To cloak Islamic greater challenge government For decades attempted resist religious intrusion financial practices In course inquiries about Islamic banking insiders talked agreed sooner later government would The Minister Finance already mentioned several times companies Al Rayyan subjected government scrutiny According government sources offered guarantees investors bankruptcy other financial calamities As could ascertain government argument sound Egypt partly unregulated system resembles US prior Great Depression The country could afford collapse US experienced It almost certainly would major unrest avoid massive government intervention And Egyptian government could handle In weeks leading confrontation small rumors about A1 Rayyan began circulate One companies rumored almost million speculation overseas markets It matter before question about companies ability investors raised The effect sudden powerful Company offices besieged Egyptians demanding millions pounds worths their deposits Ultimately A1 Rayyan forced government operations It widely anticipated incident drastic reforms Undoubted government substantial amount owere egulating market while arger share personal savings So But there remain disturbing questions unanswered Was campaign discredit AI Rayyan deliberately started government If singled Finally anything about Mubaraks government Unfortunately matter resoived while still Egypt But managed least partial answer talking people close contact AI Rayyan government officials According A Rayyan supporters whole affair carefully engineered government They asked company AI Rayyan He refused grounds government willing money official higher market In refusal government started campaign against company sparking investors Government officials course interference claim their innocence But spate earlier articles AI Ahram lqtisadi AI Musawwar usually reflecting government opinions belie their arguments somewhat It seems clear government least motive against A Rayyan To beyond observation seems spurious But since neutral academic observer would venture government whole affair It tactics Mubarak government years allowing maintain least public image continuing democratic experiment while gaining ground achieving goals Furthermore anyone familiar Egyptian politics would astonished government taken opportdnity offered But point earlier To question offer specualtions The government capture personal savings become acute since economic nturn started The capital reached critical stage IMF international lenders poised extract painful concessions Egypt In whole AI Rayyan affair number measures recent months designed avert attention IMF measures The Islamic aspect cannot ignored Discrediting A1 Rayyan meant putting advocated policies disrepute As President Reagan present predicament Iran weapons matter clearly shows means achieve certain policies often become confused unexpected results This conusion reasons cited above explain recent debacle Egypt In terms nature blundering place falls nicely governments world But flavor accusations being handled uniquely Egyptian It holds promises staving those entful breakfasts weeks And nothing draws attention fu__l_ sandwich these except mudracking marvelous cartoons accompany articles For while Peter asking write impresionistically about experiences Egypt In reports therefore would include couple stories culled pages personal diary diskette while country The recounted below describes walks through Islamic Cairo interrupted customary events bearing little connection avowed purpose visiting Islamic monuments Yesterday Friday spent afternoon around Bab Zuwayla taking number pictures taking porch Muayyad mosque small closely cropped dressed leather jacket approached He looked little style popular where galabayas black milayas His alive questioning hawkers approach tourists street For moment thought security wanted taking pictures Muhammad another Muhammad introduced himself carpet maker We chatted while while reloaded cameras He France while spoke words badly pronounced french Most waited until translated english before answering questions From platform mosque steady procession merchants goods piled donkeys lapanese pickup trucks small handcarts could observed Built mosque itself small electricity repair where wrapped dirty innards radio A horse passed loaded least twenty women children frame newly repainted geometric patterns green All dressed black returning funeral But their children bantering exchanged normal pleasantries drove toward Al Azhar street where driver voice cacaphony sounds Arab street Earsplitting horns stilled conversation narrow street built several hundred years accommodate horse carriage traffic Entry Muayyid Mosque vendor Alley Bab Zuwayla Muayyad mosque I3V GOSSIP WALK AROUND CAIRO Merchant alley tentmakers Selling front Muayyad Mosque Slightly ahead above soared minarets Muayyad mosque built Bab Zuwayla entry medieval Cairo climbed several occasions after having wandered throught mosque itself The Muayyad mosque itself splendid affair almost square building dates beginning fifteenth century With little imagination reconstructed looked Mamluk buildings their soaring minarets massive portals dominated landscape consisted essentially three story buildings The minarets punctuated urban landscape serving orientation points timekeepers divided several periods announced muadhin minaret The entry steps mosque polished innumerable worshippers shiny patina reflects light outside visited mosque often entrykeeper vigorous roans watches number children taking religious lessons ceilinged entry After shoes rickety beside massive normally minutes In entry earthen filled water available congrega always offered drink before proceeding building minaret My normal bakshish special treatment pound It money spent discovered afternoon found myself entry among number German tourists righteously demanded access mosque It guide visit mosque prayer asked translate allowed least The Germans muttering among themself about arrogance Arabs unpredictability whole society Barely rounded corner doorkeeper rushed forward greeted effusively invited visit mosque again inquired about prayers He smiled maliciously I donat tourists mosque And Germans bakshish As climbed minaret afternoon heard muadhin announcing afternoon prayers below Allahu Akbar allahu Akbar Ashada Allahu illalah G great God great testify there God Soon noise bustle receeded stayed until prayers watching sunlight golden Behind Muhammad All mosque turned lightblue streaks amber brown The muadhin voice amplified modern convenience powerful loudspeaker floated perch minaret The Muayyad mosque muadhin first His voice strong powerful To uninitiated there little difference between muadhins voicem Westerners often dismiss noise admit first trips Tunisia rather cavalier fashion astonishment enraged friend After while starts discover nuances Soon follow intonation different which muadhin eongates certain syllables different interpretations should sound The voice seems almost harsh always nasal glottal stops catch listerner unexpectedly Just think should chanted muadhin slightly reinterpret sentence elaborate Alley Ai Azhar mosque The words never change Koran divinely inspired But pected twists slight rephrasing melody allow creativity That evening descended mosque already The street activity slowed completely stopped Outside Bab Zuwayla fruitsellers sellers assorted knicknacks powerful kerosene lamps casting light their assorted wares The policeman normally guards horse along Darb Ahmar Across street couple coffeeshops neihgborhood started gather A young running forth trying guttering bubbling shishas waterpipes supplied honey laced tobacco The green white lights strung along minarets Between three single lightbulbs strung above other With light inside minaret descend rather It pitchdark inside passing small doorways balconies The safest against outside feeling along steps Luckily steps Muayyad minarets evenly descend predictable Once believe Barquqs mausoleum City Dead lulled false sense security regularity steps Suddenly deeper appeared almost found myself pitched forward shaft emerged ground level covered yellow minaret carefully skirted praying lined faced direction Mecca The leading prayers talking microphone muadhin minutes earlier Dus myself courtyard minutes The Muayyad mosque completely surrounded prayer courtyard Around ornate ablution fountain several still preparing prayer Seated marble blocks before faucet carefully cleaned their hands mouth ritual dates beginning Islam The fountain itself large largely neglected garden A rustling frond trees As minaret feeling almost solitude The heavy walls building keeping remaining From darkness garden could observe bending kneeling harsh light strong electric lights Before prayer ended quietly slipped The doorkeeper performing prayers entry stepped quietly behind rustling money pocket He continued prayers following motioned toward shoerack message pound under Korans Muhammad proposed Bab Khala Darb Ahmar densely populated warren lower class artisans As medieval Cairo narrow streets enough through As Darb Ahmar street sense direction walked succession alleys narrow streets In tried locate mosques fountain walked Soon sense direction dodged children playing soccer dusty alleys riding their bicycles speed The contains marvelous collection house elaborate mashrabeyya scrolled woodwork screens No longer forced watch street through screens women freely passerby below For seconds gossip shared woman alley comes A couple sentences dedicated appearance khawaga foreigner neighborhood gossip continues As Cairo street functions extension overcrowded homes Furniture makers assemble elaborate benches inlaid decorations again pulling donkeycart Women washing clothes spill houses streets One neighborhoods specialties Muhammad tells inlaid Most tourists visit Cairo small boxes plates little tables prices western standards quite reasonable Muhammad alley where outstretched hands could easily touched houses either Almost another furniture copper ushered narrow courtyard Muhammad score middleman scour streets search tourists They living earning commission these tourists shops contracts witho smiled mistake should known better baited Muhammad offer monuments Darb Ahmar Very Cairenes history their fewer rudimentary knowledge Islamic monuments certain admiration cleverness which cloaked professed shared interest And ready another display salesmanship ritual predictable performing prayers mosque The courtyard crammed finished benches tables Beside staircase house number women squatted preparing evening Muhammad introduced owner house famous mother boxes We exchanged pleasantries invited three couches lined small reception Since space emium these populated quarters rooms serve functions The reception contained stove undoubtedly functioned bedroom evening The women outside cleaned washed vegetables which prepared little stove corner where young brewed visitor It afternoon vests heavy sweaters their milayas The owner returned cardboard plates little jewelry cases famous mother To prove authenticity product produced couple shells which these boxes It decent I Cairo better nevertheless pretended admire When walked noticed large identical boxes stacked against courtyard varnished If mother pearl owner would needed piles shells solitary produced convince authenticity product Still looked closely around those Muhammad handed thumbnail where hinge fastened It almost putty It particularly imitation Muhammad course declared interest whether bought anything friend could accept commission something purchased friend smiled appreciatively asked dismissed cheap imitation Thirteen pounds replied The expensive A couple weeks earlier purchased similar friend When addressed salesman arabic tried convince mother pearl purchased pounds He would better anyway wants mother pearl Now would factory empty glass reluctant since afternoon light softens picture taking Oust around corner Muhammad reassured anything found myself alleys children bicycles furniture piled against walls Around corner turned brisk minute The carpet factory cramped first floor dingy story building large number snoozing courtyard My specialty pharaonic Muhammads business partner waved Against antique wooden weaving manned young woman Taped against frame stylized picture Tutanchamons deathmask always popular tourists On small complete copies knotted green colors They kitch souvenirs during entire Cairo Judging stacked table middle large demand these artifacts seemingly exists The young woman asked liked preferred classical designs would undoubted another Muhammad So quite those shocking colors She agreed saying tourists A sitting table smiled tobacco stained teeth continued errant strings garrishly colored finished As leave young woman threw front Fantastic scenes which queen Nefertiti Tutanchamon figured prominently unimaginable colors house followed Muhammad thousand thanks cutting carpet threads seemingly unaware purchased almost walked silence toward Bab Zuwayla Light spilled alleys bulbs hanging doorways The smelled cooked beans stewed mutton varnish leather roasting kebab turmeric Half finished furniture covered dropcloth evening As reached archway Bab Zuwayla where musicians announced sultan entry where Mamluk ruler suffered indignity having scaffold thrice breaking Muhammad shook Goodbye friend again Maybe something In Allah God willing Within seconds disappeared alleys The doorkeeper Muayyad mosque waved across street beckoned walked however waved headed A Azhar street still thinking those Tutanchamon reached Midan Tahrir A I Received Hanover