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12/21/1965 - Impressions of six days in Rio by Fanny Mitchell

NOT FOR PUBLICATION INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Reci Pernambuco FM December Impressions Rio Dear Mr Nolte Ordem Progresso ironical Brazil country world words national should inscription They words spring readily after spending Rio To stranger there certainly striking aspects material progresso ordem difficult locate As European Latin first I would hasten admit probably mistaken impressions We sailed Rio early morning before clouds lifted Corcovado The whole skyscrapers mountains different shades white extraordinarily beautiful looked Japanese water colour Unlike great places familiar innumerable descriptions pictures Rio physicall lived expectations The sailed slowly Bay merchant ships Minas Gerais Brazil single notorious aircraft carrier called Carlocas their characteristic Bel Antonio The chairs decks looked surrealist She appeared rather forlorn The peace tranquillity rapidly dispelled however disembarked never return One things struck early Brazilians genuinely noise m_o_vimento silence unnatural state Our introduction jeito manipulation immediately forcefully We warned England Brazil country graft connexlons I underestimated extent We arrived customs would large valuable items In European customs would complied unquestloningly demands nowing argument pointless Rio things different We lucky enough individuals espachante professional middle between bureaucracy traveller After wheedling coaxing tactful pauses great patience claim goods needed research personal finally accepted nothing Throughout entire procedure personal element clearly greatest importance finally tipped balance I suspect friendship between customs espachante Bribery parently almost entirely eliminated customs customs officials given taken bribery financially unrewarding alternative These needs jeito connexlons retrospect strongest causes feelings culture shock We faced getting ourselves Reclfe miles quickly FM cheaply possible There service North East which takes warned there outbreak bubonic plague route somewhere south Bahia werealso could afford It became apparent feasible equally clear cheap flights Brazilian Air Force could arranged through official channels owing Christmas holiday Therefore spent using nexions could learning manoeuvre around officialdom While accusations levelled politicians industrialists England other connexlons large their decisions became clear bureaucratic Brazil absolutely essential large number friends relatives attain ctive At infinite patience optimism needed going The racial problem rather situation Brazil analysed length people Some Brazilians I talked subject Brazil Americans other foreigners failed distinguish finer characteristics situation During Rio three points struck Firstly there extraordinary variety facial types colours This marked I found impossible picture stereotyped Brazilian There seemed overt signs whatever intolerance tension between those different colour travelled worked played football together Secondly however closer observation could predict after menial likely skinned person I black people expensive restaurants light skins favelas slums Although course partially explained vicious ircle poverty little education I whole answer appeared A third aspect situation which struck typified following story A relatively highly educated Carioca pointed pride arrived Brazil racial problem racial prejudice Yet couple hours later discussing without solicitation facial features family great detail ended pulling trousers nephew saying But white really This paradox strong awareness facial characteristics colour coupled comparative tolerance brought vividly State politics frequent topic conversation aroused strong feelings Conversation inevitably centred around activ ities Governor Carlos Lacerda controversial governor Guanabara Opinions ranged those thought achieved great those wasted state money succeeded leaving heavily My first impressions least terms material construction great FM almost every street there hoarding building recently completed building governor Moreover highway public recreation Flamengo together numer other major engineering feats carried under The follow incident illustrates personal control exercised public services shows continuity prevalent Brazil administration A friend clambered already fullo He asked conductor standing passengers meant carry The condu pointed number written replied Oh fixed Lacerda longer This attitude evident general disregard traffic regulations Crs beginning disregard traffic lights speed limits ignored Rio struck flashy materialistic At certain level extremely sophisticated The number skyscrapers avenues flashing advertisements among first things noticed ceased dazzled ultra modernity forest favelas covering urban mountainsides gradually revealed themselves until became aware almost eating gardens large villas integral Rio flats blocks ground The beaches magnificent important social focal points Cariocas seemed peculiarly beach orientated enormous pride justifiably taken pointing their beauties Clearly spent beaches people classes We professional young spent every beach eight consecutive months maintained others generation likewiseo Another social phenomenon Rio I noticed prestige importance attached belonging clube These basically sports clubs swimming baths tennis courts other facilities restaurant which entertainment night Membership clubs cheap visited membership However membership regarded investment since value increases later either profit handed children The seemed present towards future rather Its handsome colonial buildings except sadly neglected already pulled The palace example seventeenth century building become office headquarters It covered With thick telephone wires courtyard painted hideous bright green while conditionlng units destroyed symmetry elevations On other great modern architecture impressive The skyscrapers commercial quarter extremely varied exciting The Carlocas seemed inward looking their interests centred almost exclusively Rio Remarkably little knowledge enthusiasm expressed country those I surprisingly north Bahia intention going there Newspapers devoted space European North American affairs continent I attempted about other countries Latin America interest could aroused Not unsurprlslngly I still reactions mannerisms attitudes character Brazilians extraordinarily enigmatic extremely ficult understand To paper present impressions would dangerously harden still highly confused jumble ideas I tentatively forward following observations I Carlocas I encountered common English stereotyped Irishman They indirect tendency thought would They seemed enjoy words rhetoric often extremely superficial plausible explanation They extrovert liked holding stage disliked listen others I Carloca indeed Brazilian confess answer confronted particular question The process making friends matter I whether close friendships easilyo The years promise immensely interesting least because I aJlong before I shall sense integrated Brazilian llfeo Yours sincerely Fanny H H Mitchell Received New York January