© 2007 Institute of Current World Affairs
The Institute awards long-term fellowships to develop a deep understanding of an issue, country, or region outside the US and to share that understanding with a wider public.
Institute of Current World Affairs - Home Page

Below is a hobbled text version of a PDF document.
In order to read the actual document please click the link below and register if necessary.
(One-time registration is free and very quick.)
Read article

7/25/1964 - India: Holiday by Granville S. Austin

NOT FOR PUBLICATION INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS A Nizamuddin West Indi Holiday New Delhi July Mr Richard H No1te Executive Director Institute Current World Affairs Madison Avenue New York New Dear Dick I British summer husbandi steaming plains Punjab children station rather heartless character somewhat lacking affection Preconceived notions almost always dispelled knowledge however Red spent June sarong Delhi while children I wearing woolens sleeping under three blankets Himalayas My original aversion leaving Red month search moderate climes becne weaker weaker temperature Non political newspaper articles May concentrate exodus capital avoid summer political conver centers around controvers Which month worst temperatures hovering around relatively humidity storms little relief night postmonseen temperature humidity close together particularly disliked Delhi Augus miserable people because sticky force hungry September month evacuate Delhi because intensity either ohumidity extremely enervating The whole subject summed English friend lived Delhi years There really agument months absolute After unanimity point conversation turns cooling systems There basically three Delhi adcates seems particularly reliable The ancient Indian system three dimensional frames covered matting Khas pungent smelling built outside house doors windows In small would employed throw water Khas every minutes during hottest bourse plastic piping holes constant water flowing through across Khas frame When there breeze truly amazing I myself house faint cious aroma Khas where thermometer window framed Khas registered 80while temperature outside shade Efficacious system useful during season completely dependent rarity breeze Another reducing temperature install desert cooler whereby blown through matting modern mechanized odorless version Khas I never cooler heard lukewarm praise efficacy owners several definite criticisms One major complaints effect_ negligible close proximity concen trated produce chills My personal feeling desert cooler particularly effective would widespread price conditioner The dehumidifying conditioner entire season general amongst foreign population wealthier Indians Foreign their firms conditioning necessity maintain reasonable level exertion With Indians lived centuries growing advocacy conditioning perhaps Indians comfort anyone conditioner expensive therefore prestige But conditioner limitations The ctricity supply Delhi erratic mendous surges current extremely wearing appliances During summer months electricity supply particularly taxed electricity several hours unusual The palliative lengthy absorbing problem cooling systems becomes unavoidable leave Delhi hills The approach school summer holidays May July coupled shade therefore useless garden limited planned indoors hyper active children seemed dictate action Ve telegrams easily accessible stations northern India received replies Fully booked month June The explanation situation instability political situation Kashmir frightened majority Kashmir habitual tourist trade refuge summer other hills The solution perhaps obvious feasible until friend husband senior official Government suggested forces camping tents village Pahalgam hills thirty miles Srinagar avoid crowd would Kashmir Camping Pahalgain courtesy Peter Jackson My initial reaction usila uncertain mingled pleasure I never inside cmpin experience consists nights Appalchian Mountain Club college Then Susila showed Tourist Office brochure listin prices rental wooden floorin ttresses dinin ables dressin tables wardrobes chairs Cenpin Kashmir ane3ous Appalchians Hopes soared Kashmiri could evidentl fitted style inexpensively We started As third class round ticket Delhi rinaar miles approximately decided The charge trans trunks large knapsack containin household essentials month Our supplies included sheets blankets towels napkins cutlery cookin kitchen utensils plastic containers water bottles bucket wretched bucket stove assortment canned goods ranging powdered tinned salmon cater until established Susila I discussed aesthetic necessities Our whittled minimum Red scathing looks included coppex Mongolian Hot Pot kettle built firebox double brass candlesticks bronze Gnesh Hindu elephant brings fortune homes large packets sndalwood sticks pepper I hasten single proved indispensable during month The morning first June children I Delhi Srinagar flight Viscount The flight smooth there excepting introvert fascinated transition parched plains faintly snowcapped mountain range magnificent green valley From cloistered New Delhi doesn realize extensive Plains North India really After about suddenly flying range mountains eight thousand In matter minutes looking fabled Yale Kashmir valley above level miles miles dotted lakes encircled mountains One fully understand ancient Sanskrit literature Kashmir described jewel mountains It judge whether impressive first particular I vouch being truly breathtaking sight This beginning series novel experiences always structive usually pleasing often frustrating The three possible support Red calls phenomenon framing Indian Constitutions seemingly incompatible views exist simultaneously complete harmony Our entire entourage spent first evening Delhi Tourist Reception Center Srinagar Any number niwar woven supplied mattresses produced after sheets blankets obviously problem unpacked trunk I understand value Indian bedroll A bedroll exactly martress sheets desired blankets bedcover rolled It extremely important equipment traveller India I never again anything organized travel without It assures relative cleanliness comfort matter circumstances The morning ultimate destination Pahalgam Our party adults children eleven major pieces luggage finally seats ordinary These buses strongly resemble Geoffrey Matchbox spent several years being pushed uneven flagstone floor They small square vehic seats about twenty people often slight As expected serve their purpose admirably The either driven sprung journey sprayed hummocky mountain neither jerky slithery The fortunately inexplicably ventilated It quite obviously modern refinements respect reason never stale I particularly sensitive aspect since children prone sickness started upset stomach smugly smiling American boatman A1 Capone cigars beginni None windows wouldn others visible fresh frequent flash stops Yet circulated The hours miles straight through paddies willow banked streams valley hours miles following rushing river Lidder mountains Pahalgam Pahalgam described guidebooks small village which stands Lidder valley To descriptio sis1eading Paha buiIt Lidder spots along river course where there gentle slope between river hills The village consists tarmac street about lined universally uninspiring story buildings Without exception ground floor occupied business establishment office office office restaurants cater Gujeratis Maharashtrians Punjabis Bengalis everyone Kashmiris seemed small shops catering souvenir searchers turesque sellers fruits Pahalgam Ponyback vegetables One innnediately sruck shoddy colorless nestled midst superb forests peaks At northern village Lidder River forks attraction camping foothills Himalayas begins After frustrating afternoon searching expected night hotel trunR sheets blankets proving vital finally installed tents almost hours later planned Our chosen Susila excellent In front tents almost meadow where children could wander sight chaperon Around sloping woods Best mountain torrents either hilly peninsula minutes It fifteen minutes village through grove rocky covered buttercmps daisies roses We three tents pitched close together possible In themiddletentswithwoodenflooring sleptbbinplaypen onechild ayaho Susila children myself other Off stove Army The large tents delightful expectation T This included porte cochere front portion square partitioned flaps conical curtained portion attached latrine There layers outer exremelv tarpaulin inner heavy canvas section The inner verandah lined cotton bright yellow speckled modernistic flowers Our rented furnishings consisted misshapen niwar disconcerting between tapes mattresses thick shorter narrower dressing table mirror three tables straight wooden chairs cotton commodes basins In kitchen along stove rented niwar Primus cupboard screen table Beside kitchen prize possession hamam water heaters funnel diameter center The filled water funnel within there gallons boiling water To complete Spartan household those mixed bless Eastz electricity servants There ceiling lights everytime slightly pitch black The hated constant irritant Kashmiri trades supplied water rides unfailing cheer We discover Himalayas little little When Sun Morning Pony Ride superb rains everything everyone miserable Craig Hilary Hassan It started moved weeks rained varying degrees intensity several hours We finally settled routine based skies Mornings lovely after watching children rides would short Pahalgam particularly abode there satisfying setting these excursions because variety environs within minutes meadows forests rivers We could collect flowers cones smooth pastel stones depending Afternoons spent completely fashion shopping complaining electricity failed AGAIN renting Suspenseful Bridge quilts After these chores which could would respective tents prepare evening Rains every during period between continued little respite until night We eventually evolved system children The charge their while Susila I organized other three Our people insulating Susila would start Eongolian Ho Po which works principle hamam pajamas while I hastily splashed child standing basin water Then would prayers Ganesh Ganesh surrounded flowers lovingly garden corner We would electric light occasion working light candle sandlewood sticks think sunny could After minutes children equipped water bottle would Susila I would settle toddy Kashmir Slightly warmed would peaceful supper collect water bottles tents All flaps checked sides weighted every large rocks chairs trunks suitcases chained locked poles Finally clutching nocturnal blackjack pepper I could Bed sleep however A street Delhi peaceful midnight compared meadow Pahalgam Dogs howled fought crawled Grazing tangled ropes 3hrilly whistling police sleeping undisturbed Wind rains pounde rivers roared This quiet holiday maddening crowd village making nervous Dytimes I previous night exitement wakefulness waiting involved domestic minutia I began wonder holiday would start The final insult hours heavy monsoon The tents proved themselves waterproof The kitchen dripped places The ground became muddy children I slept middle beloved wooden floor The between Srinagar Pahalgam closed because landslide supplies village becoming exhausted Desperation beginning sared abate As Susila pointed Ganesh extra attention Kashmiri fortunes changed On June rains stopped Jacksons arrived Adrienne Peter Jackson Reuters correspondents Delhi They exceptionally intelligent people delightful children almost The children happily occupied hours their contempon companions The older ranging eight years given extensive boundaries including meadow woods ivulet slopes They would trundle picnics equipped small knapsack toilet paper pencil paper writing notes The front section middle became clubhouse The eldest children started journalistic venture Adrienne I attempted institute morning riding school ponies c_ould hired equivalent convinced single principle equita tionas could applied these ponies reverted laissez faire morning rides treks We joint family occasions bonfires cones omnipresent strawberries ripen birds hidin trilled happily walks aimless unhurried Ih short Jac ksons combined holiday great success Psychologically liberated Susila I ourselves through magni ficent forests occasion pasture dotted large meadow where rushing mountain river suddenly became still Dudes Kashmir shallow There washed unsuccessfully tried poach trout world removed mgngey jumping children salaam inefficiency Another followed other river narrow gorge mountain village The track canyon It magnificent terrifying To inches rocky below dangerous glacial torrent quality turquoise studded boulders T right blinder rocky precipice sprinkled mountain goats cattle Eyes glued searching slipping hoofs refrain through This Ladakh being maintained miles further these beautiful treacherous peaks small wonder people India could believ China Tould launch attack Himalayas Warfare Himalayas inconceivable experience proved impossible Personal experience given slight insight India problem defending northern border It helped understand Nehru perceptive words Like supremely beautiful women whose beauty almost impersonal above human Kashmir feminine beaut river valley lakes graceful trees another aspect magic beauty would masculine mountains precipices capped peaks glaciers fierce torrents rushing valley below It hundred faces innumerable aspects Changing sometimes smiling sometimes sorrow One evening happier faces showing aspect touched clear sunset Red Atmar Susilas husband appeared We overjoyed relieved delighted unpredictable member Himalayan family Himalayas behaving Ganesh serred The Edge World NMA GSA I From Nizamuddin Wes Phalga miles eighteen hours driving And Nancy trunk elephan grasped hands which usually rides seated Ganesh brass inches capaci Lord Obstacles watched Atmar I surmounted obstacles didntt Our driving Pahalgam divided neatly periods During first crossed miles plains between Delhi Jamu during second wended miles through ountains From Delhi Jullundur followed Grand Trunk Road familiar devotees Kipling passing fields famous history their produce fields sained blood exalted At Panipat example fifty miles Delhi fought three crucial battles In April Baburs defeated 100000 Ibrahim Lodi toppling Afghan dynasty opening Mogul Thirty years later Akbar Baburts andson defeated Hindu general Hemu momentarily recaptured Delhi Pahans firmly establishing Moguls rulers North India Yet years third battle Panipat stage comin British Delhi subse quently remainder North India By oguls Delhi Afghans enlisted powerful Marathas backagain BuinJanuarythatyear onatablelandthatin1964rew green winter Afghans roued Maratha horde eliminatin Mog contenders power Unstable conditions their beyond Indus prevented Afghans consolidating their vicory however years later British entered Delhi More familiar Indians coNmon breathe battlefield Kurukshetra where between opposing lines Kaurava Pandava armies Pandava conauder Arjuna Krishna conversed about place universe Their conversation forms known Hindu Mahabaratta called Bhagavad Gita__ Gandhi derived inspiration Gitaa perhaps other countless Indians today Sir Edwin Arnold famous translator described Gita unfolding philosophical system which remains prevailin Brahamanic Hindu belief To Arjuna loathe attack Kauravas because relations among Krishna Mour those those Nor I these spirit mattersz Never spirit spiri shall cease never Because Kshatriya birth warrior Arjuna fight Therefore Krishna preaches Thy prescribed With spirit unattached gladly perform Since performance plain Mouns highest bliss Proceeding onward passed through Amballao And drove orderly quarters tents neatly lined trucks cantonemnt I remembered Kim delivere pedigree white sallion Creighon It imagine cruised toward sunset Partition Sikhs Hindus butchered Muslims indiscriminatelr while Muslims Sikhs Hindus westward Nor conjure picture bazar Ludhiana wreckage communal riots early Shah Shuja lived there exile Afghanistan Colonel 0chterlony occupied political agent SiIh states I remember Ludhiana woman She evidently blind squatted where narrowed railway crossing Trucks buses pushcarts bullock carts occasional camel cycle rickshaws scooters pedestrians within inches Through wailed beggars unceasingly I watched while waited train I anyone anything The Grand Trunk Road built fifem above plain through trunks spreading trees lined ehoulders could Punjab fieldss mostly newly ploughed after harvest winter wheat waiting rains summer crops grain lentils other beans The Punjab Delhi westwards depende uncertain winter rains July October monsoon water The water table wells artesian wells provide certain large scale irrigation patient fields under plough brings Beyond Amballa however wells effective become increasingly travels northwestwards Above Amballa irrigation river water crossed major irrigation canals Sirhind BaSra running their banks although bones major river Sutlej shining As drove passed green fields paddies This June On familyls return later fields everywhere soaked water frogs sounded ditches peepers Vermont spring Sutlej Phillaur beginning flood So sudden force monsoon strikes force three unusual The countryside Punjab restful exciting Not towns which exceptions industrially unlovely belie music their names Their crowded filthy unkemp noise bedlam The importance economic sociological their industry catal traditional society presumably outweighs ugliness factories junIheaps slums But these cities Atmar I Grand Trunk Jullundur where turns Amritsar headed north We arrived Pathankot night drove through shuttered bazar railway station where served retiring rooms night The airconditioned station relief hundred degree The hairs indicated either Sikhs women previous occupants turned sheets presentable sleep Except cities major tourist centers India hotels overly attractive propositions Instead travellers retiring rooms railways towns bungalows other governmen houses found along roads Da bungalows institution India travellers Many rupees chicken baclryard The other resthouses inspection bungalows government pamtmens public works forests canals there rcuit houses circuit judges Few these cooks bring Technically permission should obtained relative government department before using according travelled friends watchman usually opens doomo After decent breakfast station restaurant Atmar I Jammu hills Soon after leaving Pathankot crossed Ravi river third Punjab rivers crossed Sutlej before Ludhiana Beas before Pathankot entered state Jamnu Kashmir I check asked produce passport When I police locked Delhi allowed myself state On I signed again Within miles state border countryside changed abruptlv plains The undulated across alternating rises gullies fifty slope where rivers hills plains The gravelly rounvater washed boulders sizes T river bridged generally dipped bottom gullies nullahs where season water across Going Kashmir nullahs The return however local storms filled after fording several successfully stalled deeper The torrent rattling stones across against water creeping before group urged officer pushed danger We waited drinking eating cookies officer house until stopped floods subsided resumed The skyline Jammu prickly spires Hindu temples The people district predominantly Dogra caste Dogra laharajas ruled better misruled state until after accession India autumn Few Muslims Janmm those uneasy memor friends relations killed Partition They happen again Kashmir dispute grows intense climb Vale Kashmir begins streets Jammu route stead climb descent climb again ceaseless corkscre turns From elevation Jammu ascends Tikri Udmpur first through tortured limestone crops heavily eroded valleso A Udampur starts thirty thousand climb Patnitopo Leaving scrub timber grass about point ascends western valley which steep gouged Just before crossing ridge enters forest spruce deodar needled variei3r somewhat New England white Stately fores immediate tired senses wants brown cnshioned floor forever listening watching white clouds drift Descending forest below Btote winds where crosses gorge Chenab fourth Punjab rivers Rembano From ttote downwards Atmar I first Muslim Kshmiri slender hooked noses deter mined From Rambn bridge climbs miles tunnel under Banih Pass This amazing mountain I Frequentlyonlyonecgrwide itswhittledndslicedintoslopesofcon sistentlymorethan45degrees Itsnakeditsyrossthemiddleof thousand cliffs ducked every vlley followed contour All might remarkable except geology mounteins loose rotten Atmar I stopped nearlyn slide blocked We while bulldozers purred grumbled gorge We constantly dodging loose rocks lying rolled above In places buttresses holding began hundred vlley other places ashouts heavy before notches width The previous portion route lmost equally susceptible biocking From Ibote Rambn drove through debris remaining twelve slides brought storm These slides closed This which Indi depends supply Kshmir which depends supply troops fcing Chinese Ldkh This convoys grind common route miles longer infinitely through Amritsar Ihore Pwlpindi Sringr c1osed Prtition tence Pkistn This pssble jeeps Forties Twenties considered Maharajs private during Thirties widened after Pakistan inspired attack Kashmir Srinagar saved attackers lifted troops India begin money making major access route Kashmir Even round weather until December Jawahar Tunnel after Nehru completed Today remains Goatherds usable through expenditure large money through constant attention battalions military workers Border Roads Force Border Roads Commission autonomous organization under direct command Cabinet Secre Since capacity Banihal nearly doubled observers believe And addition Indian Government increasingly using aircraft supply forward areas Leh supply aircraft_ faster cheaper least compact cargoes A Member Parliament other cement takes three weeks Delhi Leh truck costs about In contrast flight several hours cement flown about An American engineer characterized India border situation Banihal Srinagar Leh roads North East Frontier Agency difficult expensive construction world Not daily threaten normal civil commerce military transport hostilities would vulnerable attack according military authori A bombs above could cause landslides would clear The Banihal considering terrain negotiates remarkably Yet realize between India Kashmir uncomfortably frail Having encountered little traffic fortunately convoy pulled Banihal village Atmar I reached tunnel drove through Kashmir proper below The Vale Kashmir celebrated about everybody stretched northwestwards undeD flank jagged sight comparable wonder lookinff Bekaa valley after having crossed Lebanon Young painted Vale brilliant green Lombardy poplars marched through marble Columns As closer valley floor could mountains reflected water paddy fields We could water rushing irrigation canals beside Because evening coming fields although continued backed their trans planting The women passed earrings clusters silver bells smiled The children saluted shouted Salaam On mounds above paddies villages clustered under shade plane trees And villages close beside could shopkeepers seated cross legged among their wares puffing present hookah whisks keeping flies hanging haunches At Khanabal where forked Srinagar turned right Lidder Valley toward Pahalgam passing Ganesh which flowed blood Home Alexander Great smote sword This impressed Alexander turned journey Amarnath where intended desecrate Shiva Ganeshs father We reached Pahalgam sunset Nancy JacksOns Susila their tents meadow which timbered slopes peaks fields It Jackson Hole Tenons hanging above And against chill sliding valley toddies There distin advantages sending holiday early By Amar I joined group organized scouted reliable All follow along One walked through woods pastures watched wagtails catch along glacial river One The there I three fried lunch Another whole encampment minus Jackson Austin babies hours picnic T ponies managed steep Rainbow Brown amazing stamina sidering walked worst pitches One afternoon I drove sixty miles repairs punctures nails shoes Gujar herdsmen faced nomads their sheep goats valley pastures surner The reason Hindustan otors equip their tubeless tires though garages So I place where I could tubes tires That evening another Nancy I goatherds bistro fingers Kashmiri mutton curry delicious sauce leathery heaps Dessert local greengages plums spiced Our greatest adVen night Speaking urgently Peter Jackson roused blankets robbed Had thing We except later found Nancy purse inadvertently Jackson during dinner evening Peter Gujar Herdsmen Hut village routed police arrived noisily bearing lanterns The affair turned better could hoped Because Peter discovered thieves yelled ettisoning flight The morning thanks largely sharp everhing recovered barring Nancy Peter transistor radio Indicative local sentiment villagers though police robbery Several later Rams Jacksons leave Then packed drove Srinagar On noticed first unique architecture Valets mosques There onion domes minarets triple arches The lower story mosques simple square rectangle ordinary doors The roofs three steps Buddhist pagodas rising spire New England Congregational Church The contras between ruggedness Pahalgam scenery serenity Negean Lake great between tents means crude houseboat Panelled spruce Persian carpets floors living dining bedrooms fully equipped bathrooms cutlery shining tablecloth itself Cost Austins cluded dollar shikara water ferry shore The New Royal Palace We stayed resting swimming spending Srinagar result copper On July arriving night Ganesh surrounded hibiscus piece Pahalgam driftwood And second aspect For addition being Lord Obstacles interested literary educational activities patron grammarians manuscripts books Yours sincerely Nancy Granville Austin Received New York August