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2/10/1999
- Something Has Changed
by Jean Benoît Nadeau
JBN EUROPE RUSSIA Jean Beno Nadeau Fellow Institute studying resistance French trend economic cultural globalization ICWA Something Has Changed LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Carole Beaulieu Mary Lynne Bird Peter Geithner Thomas Hughes Stephen Maly Peter Bird Martin Judith Mayer Dorothy S Patterson Paul A Rahe Carol Rose John Spencer Edmund Sutton Dirk J Vandewalle Sally Wriggins HONORARY TRUSTEES A Doak Barnett David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A PARIS France February By Jean Beno Nadeau We coming office rental agent I opened window light famous French ethos attitude It unknowingly studying improve career spares words He appointment shook hands hurriedly sidewalk But I Bonjour rental agent stopped almost dropped cellular phone I piece advice monsieur Nadeau Yes monsieur Mugnier Don Bonjour Au revoir People think idiot Au revoir Bonjou revoir monsieur Mugnier I descended M smile Thus perils traps fellowship France I thought Neither dysentery humiliation My I ample occasions reflect incident similar During first stayed breakfast school teacher She sweet advice could correcting about wrong auxiliary verbs participles using peinturer instead faire peinture meant paint The French France funny expression someone speaks refined language They Bien A chastised French Scolding custom something It superiority sometimes ignorance To French people Bonjour especially maple syrup accent But other French people noticeable France times between Niagara Falls Gasp peninsula This precisely attitude Quebecker I always To frank attitude evolved about significance Bonjour Au revoir episode episodes scolding since seeing Le D Cons The Dinner Idiots popular picture million viewers The comedy revolves around cruel albeit factual Some aristocrats compete finding perfect idiot They elected winner course dinner attended contestant unknowing candidate spell idiocy This lasted until winner found proclaimed champion unwittingly One variation consisted inviting women After viewing Jean Beno Nadeau I asking myself difficult questions years about impact language culture individual personally professionally wrote Jean Beno Nadeau fellowship appli cation I these questions answered living outside culture Most Quebeckers thems elves French people living America I always rather American speaking French The fellowship I pertains studying France seems resisting present trend toward balization Indeed society considered light Europe seems profound state withdrawal refusing challenge Internet necessity putting financial house order My theory there similarities differences between Americans French Like Americans vision their country embodiment universal ciples This explains resist exter influences My hypothesis French resist trend globalization because promotion Anglo American France stance found expression assertiveness military economic willingness challenge American interests encountered Iraq United Na tions World Trade Organization During effort understand France Jean Beno French Canadian journaliste novelist playwright ported English Canadian journalist spouse Julie Barlow As considers quest Jean Beno reminded former philosophy profes McGill University Charles Taylor A Montrealer raised French mother English father Taylor Rhodes scholar specialist Hegel cient Greek philosophy After lectures Plato Aristotle I chance glimpse notes They typed classical Greek classical Greek typewriter thing exists And consisted essentially words sentences One Period Next Period I understand essence Taylor translating concepts foreign terms could understand later Reaching across cultures communicate ideas I think journalism about discussing friends I conclu rental agent meant remark The French proverb Qui spare spoil children Therefore qualify remark superiority scolding meant superiority If rental agent wanted miliate would nothing introduced friends But maybe I twice A fellowship France minefield cially conscious scolding But Bonjour Au revoir anecdote shows indeed I ready debate hottest political literary salons I fluent guage without understanding codes culture Acquiring those where I discovered during first France prior fellowship occasion honeymoon Owing political propaganda Quebeckers believe French people living America This belief holds until their first matic France This honeymoon cover things about Aside language certain culinary literary artistic I virgin terms Frenchness But taste spoiled cheese French loving sauerkraut makes German Know JBN streets Paris reading Victor Hugo Zola During honeymoon nobody opened conversation during entire weeks addressed English reproach undertone parent correcting scold child Nobody yelled I screaming Having barely weeks everything packed stone tempts normal things phoning paying credit often frustrating since nothing Canada Can I quarter phone No I dollar smart I Sure stone I weeks later disappointed myself having realized obvious I Frenchman living America American speak French I consquently San Francisco New York Paris Yet fellowship began first three weeks complete pleasure I concluded intially after discussing issue people something changed changing R publique Fran People welcoming closed minded about other One scholar versed American Canadian history insisted France undergoing quiet revolution within quiet revolution ernized Quebec within generation 1960s The rationale there longer French resist globalization transforming But I cannot write substantiation besides measure skepti required before jumping conclusions Some sights I collected sharp problem French adept formulating opinion Having opinion viewed Only idiots opinion In fairness humility obvious planation observer changed France First foremost coming nontourist world capital tourism makes immense difference There I Part reporter student dilettante I years observe learn sense I Anything tourist calls annoyance simply window misunderstanding This I shoul passive transformation there active process called interviewing But thing I modify intellectual approach minute Afew hours before leaving Montreal I atypical taking plane elaborate clippings notes I painstak ingly together Rather being shipped follow sometime February This approach forced first impressions rather topics contacts thorough strung freelance reporter I years Another thing I preparation assume French Canadian I would access French culture On contrary I considered France foreign Mexico India Finding Eiffel tower I focused customs etiquette questions readings I greatly helped brilliant little simply titled France lished Graphic Arts Centre Publishing Company Portland Oregon collection under telling Culture Shock This where I found I badly kingdom Don smile The French North Americans crowd their smile We developed powerful smiling muscles because accepted In France brief smile engaging broad smile considered idiotic phony Smiles served friends narrower defini Be sorry Being sorry France cannot matic response learn North Americans You Conversely I information I Excusez ranger Excuse ering strong emphasis ranger cause I bother That should given I these stereotypical stereotypes truth Using since arrival I found French becom rather cordial congenial I magic I outrageous advice notoriously unfriendly Post Office employees positive reaction One Post Office employee exactly where cheaper price These tricks allow impromptu conversations topic In conversation Hav broken I mother tongue This found comprehension allows I being Canadian Boy Canada How belle province Some people engage conversation simply accent I experiment dropping quarter while waiting cinema Upon seeing moosehead picked began telling cousin snowmobiling Harricana River northern Quebec In their little Cana story British My landlord miles Niagara Falls Gasp Peninsula The country doing snowmobile winner dinner My newsseller pieds noirs descendents French colonialists Algeria flabbergasted accent which rarely heard before He blames weather Three after rival ominous three inches provoking record traffic kilometers Sorry That I natural advantage colonial moosehead Better while winter lasts Paris being Paris received visitors weeks after arrival They Julie pregnant sister husband living Brussels cousin Daniel Meriden Connecticut assimi lated Franco American branch family This American weekend I occasion experiment comparative tourism which guests played unwitting guinea We weekend visit Paris Montmartre Eiffel Tower Notre Dame Cathedral P Lachaise Cemetery Hi Jim Morrisson Catacombs We sipped feasted cheese But around speaking English clear group blond brown women short The point I mediately noticed changes mannerism crowd conversations would subway train other guests La Cr perie would place their chairs people would reply English I addressed French Half dozen girls JBN coming street exclaimed What Girl Let those people Girl You They American Then I spontaneous reaction giving French started mocking Quebec accent which first nearly weeks Rudeness being therefore particular feeling primarily reserved foreigners English perceived Julie I changed language system A native Hamilton Ontario English I French As learning French Montreal decided speak month English French This approach which since modified Paris We speak English French public The times forgot ourselves again Three weeks after arrival during supper acquaintance company three people southern France surprised discover French thought English Quebec They twice English accent The camouflage perfect Although I begun accumulating notes quotes variety topics looking apartment activity nontourist supplied sight social physical makeup It dwelling Paris difficulty availability which abundant requirements legal lease report The housing question brought first moral dilemma fellow This happened solved With Quebec Delegation Paris I located square meter apartment pristine arrondissement district which there Paris within hours This expemplary someone typical expatriate circuit apartment occupied Quebecker working UNESCO belonged Frenchman whose German employee Delegation Quebecophile addition being Francophile The apartment perfect first floor opened furnished ready easily habitable writers writing Theprice right taking But somehow somewhere I feeling taking would untrue fellowship Indeed would quickly functional ductive would surely record fellow But understanding fellowship looking purpose getting So I called owner revoir Another consideration sociological The arrondissement right Clothes shops After walking around Paris ready preferred downscale arrondissements East Side In nowadays Paris distinction between right almost disappeared favor East West East being arrondissements The districts Paris gentrified They perfect blend stock French immigrants working class professionals techies beggars They socialist Mem National Assembly ethnic strong styles The particular little chunk Africa especially around Barb Goutte Sahara North Finally technical consideration decided against In order obtain carte which resident permit Canadian grants which fixed address confirmed lease In carte necessary account These requirements pushed quickly outside expat market Expatriates often sublet apartments other expats without lease gentlema agreement often themselves power phone Fortunately friend friend living happened leave France Rwanda weeks arrived offered place Institute Current World Affairs This allowed luxury while looking leisurely permanent address experience Paris lifestyle minuscule equipped kitchens phone showers heating noisy neighbors intrusive concierge elevators yelling stairway There nothing doing laundry automatic Laudromat company group Malian women naked under their booboos sporting ritual scars their Or discussing merit sponge versus vendors Ibrahim Ahmed Mohammed Mr Bricolage Or chatting Arab convenience store owner while downs celebrate Ramadan Immigration transforming France France change immigrants On first visit I noticed extent urban France Mediterranean character Not cause social there Muslims living France But north Paris architecture fresh contrary London where housing nordic although cities enjoy similar climate For instance shops street whatever temperature It never freezes And evening snowed Taqueria Biju opened people their fajitas tacos their coats mitts Houses middle which typical South after lying degree latitude Montreal Paris being Timbuktu fellow France particular professional problem wealth formation available True fluency brings access wealth detail observations multiplicity topics But France democracy French particularly adept producing contradictory argument The number newsstands number publications right centre boggling Amongst dailies fellow choice between morning evening papers There about major weeklies notwithstanding month special editions sorts In described unemployed editors commonly peddle franc letters social commentary Because everything contrary available judgment required opinion Since I authored employment I pleased detect number publications topic France indication something brewing entrepreurial front But those I could publications titled Profession Fonctionnaire profession Civil servant Fonctions Publiques Civil Ser providing questions advertising creation assistant darme cover Next those lated special issue Vie Ouvri magazine communist union CGT giving evade taxes Could French reluctant cialists Too early judge But brings problem French fellow Do I consider France terms strictly exterior Maybe answer another formation abundant Paris which often provide indication where society going The quantity shows exhibitions presenta tions vernissages astonishing In cinema alone films shown simultaneously including American French productions On arrived festival named Les Belles nuits Ramadan Beau tiful Nights Ramadan began which showcased dozen shows perfo rming artists coming Mediterranean Where watch concert featuring instruments zither The played French Greek origin learned improb sounds Iranian master living Paris years We La Com Fran actor Fabrice Luchini reading Baudelaire La Fontaine C Nietsche The point reached Luchini Jean La Fontaine known Century fabulist brillantly adapted Aesop fables verse La Fontaine triumph circumcision remains relevant years after Luchini dozen fables memorable certainly Le Corbeau Renard Raven Fox fable every Francophone learns heart school The raven JBN perched holding piece cheese The hungry wants cheese plays raven T raven decides drops cheese loses However Luchin fable Verlan rather French Verlan slang suburbs invented 1970s young Beurs Arabs encrypted language It consists simply reversing syllables within phrase monosyllabic words The Verlan comes verlanisation envers reverse becomes Hence first strophe Fable Maitre Corbeau arbre perch Tenait fromage Master Raven perched cheese becomes Treme Beaucor Naite machefro Termas Venra shteper treena cheesesome The jampacked Bon Chic Bon Genre heeled Parisians Luchini Le Corbeau twice Oddly linguists predicted disapperance Verlan within years creation dured influencing nstream C French Verlan I doubt I become fluent Verlan I explore suburbs months I quickly No doubt Author Nadeau Jean Beno Title ICWA Letters Europe Russia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions Sub Saharan Africa East Asia South Asia Mideast North Africa The Americas ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Cur World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incor porated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional searchers subscription Phone E Mail ICWA valley Fax Web Site Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Administrator Gary L Hansen Pu blications Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment international events issues Institute Current World Affairs