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8/9/2004 - Lost on Rosenthalerstraße: An Introduction to Berlin Through its Architecture by Jill Winder

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Joseph Battat Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler Sharon F Doorasamy William F Foote Peter Geithner Gary Hartshorn Kitty Hempstone Katherine Roth Kono Cheng Li Peter Bird Martin Dasa Obereigner Chandler Rosenberger Edmund Sutton HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A JW ROMANIA Jill Winder Donors Fellow Institute studying reunification Germany through attitudes artists Lost Rosenthalerstra An Introduction Berlin Through Architecture By Jill Winder AUGUST BERLIN In months between being appointed Institute fellow De cember officially beginning fellowship July I interest newsletters current fellows field Peter reports Institute meetings But I admit I received Peter report June meeting Monmouth University excerpts colloquium Communist Russia Central Asia Eastern Europe I particularly ICWA community The topic communism which I place quotes because complexity inadequacy central interest since My fascination subject during first brief visits Berlin Prague which living Central Eastern Europe Thomas J Watson fellow There I explored cultural impacts transition former Eastern exhibitions interviewed artists sident writers politicians theater directors I wanted examine transfor mations previous years discover political engagement could found artistic cultural production fundamentally learn young artists defining political after Shortly after completing Watson fellowship I began working Master degree Curatorial Studies Center Curatorial Studies Bard College New York I wanted connect previous study century political theory contemporary I exposed Central Eastern Europe It New York I discovered quite serendipitously Institute Current World Affairs In months after I began Master course Jane Lombard director Lombard Fried Gallery friend Peter Gregory Feifer newsletters which reported Moscow Art Fair After reading report information about ICWA appears every newsletter I immediately Institute website learn resolved write mysterious Peter Bird Martin letter I finished degree I living Berlin learning German working freelance curatorial assistant editor I appointed ICWA fellow December At however I offered dream I described interviews trustees working curatorial assistant editor cultural program Amsterdam The program focus Cen Eastern Europe would opportunity bring gether research years My friend colleague Maria Hlavajova I Slovakia lives The Nether lands developing program would include seven exhibitions production large catalog reader The program initiated Dutch Ministry Foreign Affairs The author Rosenthalerstra In Jill Winder fellow application East German writer Heiner Muller wrote German Unification signaled socialism German history I become increasingly fascinated statement means young generation Germans those between roughly Their parents lived divided country haunted East West specter National Socialism Confronting political moral implications Nazi regime omnipresent which defined politics cultural production In contrast young generation during early years German Unification events remain seminal political historical event shapes their lives There question initial phase yourself organization revolutionary excitement early 1990s Berlin particular country general Significant transitions expansion European Union Germany participation peace keeping missions Bosnia Afghanistan introduction Euro Germany federal government Bonn Berlin fraying German relations United States architectural transformation capital itself fundamentally altered political landscape country For young generation early years freedom opportunity morphed second coming which often symbolized lining Unem ployment Office Now first decade after unification passed young generation beginning reflect 1990s their childhoods East We Germany In years visual literature music generation begun historicize itself As Institute Current World Affairs Fellow I would continue pursue interest Europe transition exploring cultural discourse about experience unification coming zwischengeneration between generation Germany Ministry Education Culture Science occasion Dutch presidency European Union first presi dency newly expanded member Union Peter trust generously allowed defer beginning fellowship months I could accept position From January June I working visual component program overall title Think Forward The program events Europe found thinkingforward Maria primary vation visual program interpret official politi assignment opportunity appeal modestly European artists thinkers others active political cultural discourse through contemporary The title visual program Who should least imagine future episodes changing Europe functions active engagement participation people tural field generate innovative discussions about meaning Europe within There seven exhibitions program Surfacing Ludwig Museum Budapest Time Again Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam Cordially Invited BAK basis actuele kunst Utrecht Out Shadows Witte With Rotterdam Safety Peace Order Free Moderna Galerija Ljubljana Olandu biuras Vilnius Contem porary Art Centre CAC Vilnius Edward Krasinski Studio Foksal Gallery Foundation Warsaw Organized local curators resent contemporary artists EU member states Czech Republic Cyprus Estonia Hungary Latvia Lithuania Malta Poland Slovakia Slovenia Neth erlands place almost simultaneously My primary responsibility program working editor managing editor produced project which released October It evolved publication serving catalog previewing seven exhibitions reader which includes anthologized texts significant contemporary European losophers thinkers artists including Etienne Balibar Boris Groys artist group IRWIN Slavoj Zizek Working allowed bring together Maria I texts subject communism writings address European cultural identity transatlantic schism after migration borders olitical responsi bility intellectuals Over months working project recently reading excerpts colloquium June ICWA meeting I continually struck Germany special communist discourse expanded European Union The historical burden National Socialism Second World War Holocaust Germany division recent challenge German reunification create complex dynamic political social cultural situation country German politicians since compelled between rebuilding country strong cratic economic entity while remaining conscious aggressions crimes perpetrated Hitler Yet answer German question Ger JW power check European preoccupation certainly dates twentieth century The expansion EU potential impact German economy Germany relations Poland increased immigration Germany widely debated country other member states Union The interesting velopment strong Franco German political alliance based large relationship between Chancellor Gerhard Schr French counterpart Jacques Chirac their opposition US Iraq political commentators whether power EU centrated union these rival tions These political issues great significance Germany Europe tionship between US Europe These issues equal importance cultural field relatively abstract political debates clearly debates reflected cultural social discussions through works themselves My ICWA ellowship allow expand questions communist transition contemporary using Germany particular pressing study In fellowship interview No vember David Hapgood I discussing thorny issue German identity identity general David thought interesting question I might young Germans would How identify yourself In other words would friends I European German might verse order I German European interestingly might respond I European German I former East West Over course years I learn about contemporary Europe trans formations since experience German reunifi cation question German identity coming young generation Germany through cultural discourse generated artists writers between As I returned Berlin July continuing I carried During months Amsterdam I begun grapple I would write first newslet What would introduce Berlin I lived before fellowship since ceased unfamiliar I until first night Berlin I suddenly street I intimately minded dynamism whirlwind change reasons continu encounter Berlin after visits residence startlingly unheimlich Late arrival I friend Ackerstra Mitte Weinmeisterstra U Bahn It July I Berlin three weeks before I taken route friend hundreds times night I U Bahn I completely disori ented I Not recognizing streetscape front I turned walked blocks wrong direction I realized mistake turned around caused confusion unveiling glitzy office complexes sides Rosenthalerstra opening three boutiques changed pearance street I weeks before moment INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS familiar street beyond recognition The rapid going urban transformation Ber since become metaphor political social cultural upheavals reunification Take Mitte where friend located example Mitte central district epitomize Berlin metamorphosis Since 1970s apartment build Mitte which blocks East Ger government ministries foreign embassies Unter Linden gradually emptied East German government turning streets between Oranienberger Tor Invaliden Jewish Quarter Almost immediately after Berlin Wall thousands young students artists others flocked promptly squatting buildings inhabit illegally opening underground clubs galleries hundreds vacant storefronts court yards Mitte Soho perhaps Chelsea Berlin filled boutiques hundreds galleries trendy restaurants Mitte cation Potsdamer Platz which during 1990s distinction being largest construction world The around Potsdamer Platz directly middle totally vacant From Berlin Wall through When Wall there suddenly peared large swath prime estate The German government initially considered space public proposals large multinational corporations Deutsche Bank Deutsche Bahn Sony Europe others develop The construction numerous towers corporate headquarters shopping arcade cinemas theatres casino apartment buildings erected 1990s internationally known architects Renzo Piano Arata Isozaki Potsdamer Platz looks business center sized Ameri The vacant space Potsdamer Platz presented Berlin extraordinary asset large I Berliners Germans opportunity Potsdamer Platz truly public space which would memorial markings Berlin Wall developed Berlin famous construction rebuilding I would focus obvious aspect process infrequently mentioned rebuilding often entails there before In following pages I share impressions about current contro versy raging proposed demolition closure historic buildings center Tempelhof Airport Palast Republik Tempelhof Airport oldest centrally located Berlin three airports Tempelhof Tegel former West Berlin Sch nefeld former East Berlin It located Berlin Kreuzberg district blocks former Fidicinstra airport minute U Bahn Friedrichstra heart downtown By Berlin Senate month airport sched close October Tempelhof complex uildings houses airport erations dozens offices laboratories private firms rented generating additional revenue Operations Tempelhof subsidized nicipal federal governments deficit million Euro million The Berlin which currently budget deficit billion Euro billion longer afford subsidize airport which primarily cargo flights small scale commercial flights serving desti nations within Germany Belgium This withdrawal funds government already committed massive renovation Sch nefeld which JW opened Berlin Brandenburg International Airport though operational until least The problem operations airport spokesperson state owned company three runways Tempelhof enough accommodate sized planes blood discount airlines EasyJet Thus attracting airline business airport nearly impossible Although small German cargo recently Tempelhof ernment decision close airport final The closure which created public outcry recently reported international newspapers The Guardian The New York Times The announcement vigorous protests airport employ customers local residents historians archi tectural community argue extraordinary architectural historical significance building demands preservation In addition these consider ations opponents closure quite rightly logical would build Berlin developers subsequent demolition Germany federal overnment responsibility building traffic ceases clear bankrupt government would pressed resist offers substantial scale devel opers control estimated square meters approx square prime estate center Tempelhof Airport extraordinary history began replaced existing airfield located former Prussian military parade ground The first Lufthansa flights departed arrived Tempelhof 1920s Its current design Ernst Sagebiel Nazi architect famed Modernist architect Erich Mendelssohn during 1920s Mendelssohn Jew forced grate Palestine later US When Sagebiel Mendelssohn studio number years Sagebiel designed Hermann G Air Ministry worked design between airport construction until Second World War The enormous structure remarkable example monumental Nazi architecture includes among other things sentry stair towers obser vation extensive network underground bunkers kilometer amphithe designed spectators would Nazi victory celebrations Albert Speer planning World War II Though I never confirm Speer directed Sagebiel design airport complex buildings would above eagle flight Indeed Tempelhof fully served piece Albert Speer megalomaniacal architec tural capital Third Reich Germania It damaged during Second World War seized Red Army After partition Berlin Tempelhof became American sector Tempelhof claim dates which planes landed during Berlin Air The US Army built damaged airport 1950s interestingly during reconstruction Army followed Sagebiel original architectural plans The decorative eagles perch building Weimar Period survived purge Nazi ornamentation through period Tempelhof US Army 1970s 1990s Last summer I unique chance Tempelhof completely closed public Al though terminal publicly accessible majority building including vacant wings structure My former roommate Tina mother native Berliner father Emory Holmes American G I Berlin Tempelhof early 1970s He worked control tower Tempelhof retirement INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS One night while Tina asked could unofficial visit because I dying building above Emory through hallways traffic control tower which amazing entire complex The vastness Tempelhof grandiosity scale scope structure spectacular terrifying Curiously looked runway glittering strobe lights lanterns colored beams light emanating elaborate though makeshift disco dance floor lines limousines TV camera equipment clicking flash bulbs northern section building The space Emory rented exclusive miere party blockbuster American Pearl Harbor Living Tempelhof building subject fascination place I everyone visits I angered proposed closing airport rather closing would almost certainly eventual demoli building While finances keeping prohibitive there would other ideas usage could building For example commercial tenants could sought building reception Airport could house display historical material about Airlift unique architectural history build The Berlin Senate cavalierly missed historical architectural preservationists arguments about importance building century German history something residents Berlin myself included cannot understand Of course Tempelhof historic build under threat demolition The Palast Republik East German Palace Republic which happens favorite building Berlin center controversy since German reunification recent months debate become publicly visible become topic conversation among young Ger particular Zitty magazine Berlin equivalent Time Out London New York trendy magazine listings exhibi tions concerts clubs movies It recently cover story about Palast Republik entitled Lass Ihn Stehen Warum Palast Republik bleiben Let Why Palast Republik remain February planned beginning Palast demolition project itself approximately million Euro nearly million The article argued building cultural political significance architectural signifi cance should reason enough lobby preserva There certainly Germans ostalgie nostalgia East operating people building Beyond political significance significant GDR building center Palast become object young Germans marily because High Socialist exterior interior which 1970s The Zitty article tained information about Palast vacant years removal asbestos building interior recently cultural activities proving could cultural center adding offerings As Tempelhof Airport there economic alternatives building demolition Indeed according officials quoted article building current state worth million Euro million The central driving force advocating sensible quality cultural Palast Verein Zwischenpalastnutzung Association Int Use Palast The association emerged Urban Catalyst EU research project Technical University Berlin established under direction architecture theorist Phillip Oswalt cooperation variety cultural institutions theaters alternative cultural spaces galleries clubs Berlin including sophiensaele Theater Club WMF State Opera Unter Linden It primarily funded private donations support participating institutions The association organized first event July offering limited public tours Palast interior public Tickets tours within hours available approximately people inside Palast first years The second event musical project called The Wagner Complex which performed audience September This association organized diverse series events August November Projects include miere renowned choreographer Sasha Waltz Dialouge Shrinking Cities Music Festival ganized Kunst Werke significant contemporary space Berlin featuring international artists DJs architectural conference public tours perfor mance Transformation about German reunifica developed years Berlin Hebbel The The complete program found website association zwischenpalastnutzung Like Tempelhof Airport Palast Republik fascinating history The Palast located Unter Linden built JW ruins eighteenth century Prussian Imperial Pal Seriously damaged Allied raids during World War II ruins Royal Schlo Palace cated eastern sector Berlin after In Germany particularly East rejected country imperial legacy origin German militarism nationalism In climate East German government considered Royal Pal aberration demanded erasure Dynamiting Royal Palace ruins began September months remove debris As Brian Ladd notes remarkable The Ghosts Berlin Confronting German History Urban Landscape ideological Walter Ulbricht Socialist Unity Party SED General Secretary clared The center capital Lustgarten palace ruins become grand square demonstrations which people struggle progress expression The Palast Republik opened April Designed architect Heinz Graffunder cated Marx Engels Platz building East German government district Mitte The rectangular structure white marble Belgian bronze colored reflective glass unremarkable ample international modernism What Palast unique designation space public functions keeping utopian cialist program GDR itself In percent activities curred Palast related official political functions The portant official space building torium where East Ger Parliament infrequently A larger assembly Volkskammer frequent party congresses By popular spaces Palast those public dozen restau rants number popular cafes bowling alley In significance Palast Republik GDR provided closest thing truly sphere East Berlin Such accessible public space meeting socializing severely limited finan cially prohibitive untry where Ministry State Security Stasi police surveillance among aggressive Soviet The symbolic historical significance Palast increased after Communist regime It there freely elected East German Par liament voted Federal Republic West Ger August Ironically weeks later official inspection premises West German thorities declared Palast completely contaminated asbestos ordered building closed sealed After almost three vacancy Palast condemned demolition March This raised substantial public outcry among former GDR citizens demonstrated signed petitions formed preser vation coalitions Many resented West overarching influence demolition attempt bolically visually expunge GDR period German history Some remembered building truly communal place remain symbol positive memories vanished The build embody East German identity complexity contradiction The Palast West Germans certainly East Germans traumatic testament divided Germany The Palast became entangled destroyed Royal Palace rival protest group formed early 1990s campaigned rebuild The highly visible activities group strik ingly demonstrated creation scaffold draped painted canvas exactly replicating Royal Palace This edifice stage simulacrum erected adjacent Palast remained there popular tourist attraction In demolish Palast Republik overturned building remained condemned Three years later INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Right Nina Fischer Maroan Sani Palast Republik Nordseite color print mounted Alu Dibond Courtesy Galerie EIGEN ART Leipzig Berlin Bottom Palast Republik interior hallway Photo Verein Zwischenpalastnutzung Bottom right Palast Republik Volkskammer Main Hall Photo Verein Zwischenpalastnutzung asbestos removal began It completed ultimately ernment million Euro Million Nina Fischer Maroan Sani German artists younger generation whose informed emergence Berlin removal remnants future Their large scale installation Palast Republik combines documentary footage Palast GDR television archive photographs building exterior video works filmed condemned interior building It presents surprising evidence stasis suspension hidden within context overwhelm acceleration Perhaps extraordinary aspect Palast story paradox while famous exterior building undergone minor changes since famous interior building classic Social style totally destroyed asbestos removal process In paradox Palast where extraordinary internal change unnoticed hidden familiar famous echoes complex jective upheavals experienced inhabitants Fischer Sani installa offers perspective where erasure representation recollection exist irreconcilable between distant uncertain future Literally building remnant regime power ruled Berlin To West Germans former GDR citizens eyesore represents oppressive police state East Germany grandiose Communist ideology To Palast represents social communal survived thrived under conditions And particu larly young Germans Fischer Sani stands aesthetic document things about GDR nostalgic throwback their childhood sonal history The building symbolically houses these conflicting competing identities By illuminating Palast Republik status doned process being rehabilitated undecided future artists imply uncertain East German legacy After affair Palast Republik I anxiously awaiting August opening cultural program organized Verein Zwischenpalastnutzung I finally interior first As fates these remarkable buildings Berlin shall Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promi They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues Author Winder Jill Title ICWA Letters Europe Russia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions South Asia East Asia The Americas Mideast North Africa Sub Saharan Africa ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc operating foundation incorpo rated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available librar professional researchers subscription Phone Fax E Mail valley Web address Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Administrator Brent Jacobson Publications Design Manage Ellen Kozak 2004Institute Current World Af fairs The Crane Rogers Founda The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission