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5/1/1993 - Untitled by Katherine L. Roth

N O I FORPIBI IC ATION KLR wrmouVan S CONSENT INSTITUTEOFCURRENTWORLDAFFAIRS May Cairo Egypt Mr Peter B Martin Institute ofCurrent World Affairs WestWheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 USA Dear Peter I Algeria knowing things would tough after talking Algerians France I started thinking I purchased ticket They called Beirut themselves afraid Don EAT people Algerian jokingly I dismissed inauspicious comments Orly brighter An Algerian woman waiting check asked surprise I going situati When I replied affirmative warned anyone airplane waiting You In waiting silent No smiled Most people chose least their neighbor possible The people spoke conversed little hushed tones A group French security guards strolled around trying conversation Theyjdidn The flight similar going morose I beginning serious doubts northern coast Africa sight As frown sitting across from_me deepened edged toward green Algerian mountains Mediterranean Hell couldn looked better Security airport seemed slightly tighter I Cairo several months earlier It tight considering situation country which Katherine Roth Fellow Institute studying tradition modernity Arab world Since theInstituteofCurrentWorldffairs theCrane RogersFoundation hasprovidedlong termfellowships outstandingyoungadultstoliveoutsidetheUnitedSatesandwriteaboutinternationalareasandissues Endowed bythelateCharlesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations KLR coined ntensity civil Western diplomats The thing customs official asked about Qor I brought He asked gruffly I Muslim Strange I thought Muslim country But I responded negative waved I expected worst seemed I arrived paradise Within moments leaving airport I cruising through impressive Algerian landscape undulating rhythms Rai music I already heard played New York Cairo Paris Far hellish milieu I prepared I found instead which aside curfew roadblocks searches doors public buildings seemed going normal surprising given daily reports licemen alleged terrorists killed previous Restaurants still brisk business Officehours usual There discos which remain although clients forbidden leave until curfew lifted Despite tenuous situation residents vaguely refer current struggle possible Synthesis French culture imposed during colonial their Muslim roots country definite appeal It dynamism change commitment previously thought impossible Algerians determined create modern authentiC Algerian state although disagree bitterly about those terms The debate about possible solutions heated healthy It discussed every every dinner table In initial fascination Algeria I wondering Algeria I seeing utterly different which I about It taken understand everyone flight silent The pressures difficulties Algeria slowly quietly They unspoken beneath surface But there There frustrationwas I couldn istop tears flooding cheeks There nights insomnia I police military prowl deserted streets awakened gunshots night Like Algerians theflight country I I become conservative about I I conclusions toward haltingly Two weeks I local grocer asked coffee None Sugar None Tea None In principle those things there happen Try again KLR later smile I tried numerous shops different areas capital before I final found coffee again Now I begun buying larger quantities Algerians I learning without things I thought basic things I granted close friendships confidences become infinitely meaningful Algeria country intense extremes contradictions It sleek It perhaps Westernized deeply traditional Arab countries In evening available TV channels French In women streets generally dresses their Many women It difficult country I I privileged witnessing pivotal history I imagine anywhere I rather It going interesting couple years Best regards Received Hanover May