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5/15/2001 - Glimpses of a City by the Sea by Leena Z. Khan

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Joseph Battat Carole Beaulieu Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler William F Foote Pramila Jayapal Peter Bird Martin Ann Mische Dagmar Obereigner Paul A Rahe Carol Rose Chandler Rosenberger John Spencer Edmund Sutton Dirk J Vandewalle HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A LZK SOUTH ASIA Leena Z Khan Institute Fellow studying intersection culture women lives Pakistan Glimpses City Sea By Leena Z Khan No nation heart glory unless women We victims customs It crime against humanity women within walls houses prisoners There sanction anywhere plorable condition which women You should women along comrades every sphere Speech given Mohammad Ali Jinnah Aligarh University MAY KARACHI Pakistan Since Pakistan creation status women hotly debated political legal social context among scholars jurists lawyers politicians sociologists maulvis Islamic clerics The current status women Pakistan means uniform conditions pending educational background class geographical location I explore study women movement Pakistan various angles early women participation independent Pakistan current social legal hardships suffered Pakistani women individuals community velopment groups NGOs areas women economic legal social development For third since indepen dence martial reinstated Pakistan General Zia Haq military General Zia introduced Hudood Ordinances Qanun Shahadat Law Evidence Order Islamization Pakistan Zia Islamic values legitimize regime consolidate power These Ordinances amended existing Pakistan Penal Code enforced traditional Islamic Shariah punishments adultery titution theft alcohol consumption bearing false testimony These undermined women status curtailed their ability protect selves charges adultery Over course several newsletters I Ayesha Khan Women Pakistan Government Gender Unit UNDP Islamabad July providing detailed political overview Pakistan history collusive military impact present status women After reading about Hudood Ordinances I became interested exploring living realities Pakistani women today years after passage these I discovered readings discussion activists women movement early 1980s largely result these Over years I place current women within larger context culture customs inclination things perspective people everyday lives I landed Karachi Pakistan mercial center middle April which beginning humid I visited country years before month family reunion I Pakistan grown speaking English Urdu2 family emigrated U S early I still extended family members living Paki I Karachi international I times several years during three visits States She warmly received whisked where I greeted relatives I years After large breakfast endless questions about family States asked about brought Pakistan As I given details about fellowship understandably puzzled about choice leave immigration lawyer States Pakistan years She jokingly remarked Most Pakis tanis desperately trying leave America decided I explained I Pakistan explore issues surrounding gender inequality forts being women groups NGOs viduals toward improvement status women My follows Pakistani politics carefully served Pakistan government Deputy Con troller Civil Defense Sindh province agreed there problems women Pakistan including dowry deaths police timidation domestic violence She cautioned these difficult issues I should careful conducting research I assured I thought preparation fellow I would judgment these sensitive issues My pointed there other issues importance facing Pakistan today She about severe water scarcity Sindh4 province resulting protests Karachi She plained about shedding where electricity turned municipality various parts Karachi anywhere minutes hours power shortage There menacing problem sectarian religious violence She ethnic sectarian clashes plagued Karachi 1990s people being killed every month Although political ethnic tensions eased recent years weeks after arrival sectarian violence resurfaced again Karachi Urdu Pakistan national language sounds Hindi spoken North India Urdu written modified Persian script Karo refers honor killings where victims accused illicit sexual relationships being being woman A schism Islam occurred after death Prophet Mohammad When Prophe Ali assassi nated followers descendants formed Shia In chance reconciliation Ali surviving prophet grandson Husain relatives killed Battle Karbala Iraq Sunni partisans Today about Muslims Pakistan Shia Sunni Ismaili smaller sects Sindh province southernmost province Pakistan Sindh cultural heritage especially music visual Sufism pervades cultural throughout province Abdullah Shah Ghazi revered Sufic Sindhi saints buried ziarat Karachi Sindh capital LZK Leena I working Ellen between intra Sunni groups based Deobandi Bralevi schools thought6 provoked killing Maulana Qadri leader Sunni Tehrik bearing organization Sunni Bralevis Pakistan My Sunni groups which previously carried armed strikes against Shia targeting rival Sunni organizations The capped months tension between Bralevi Deobandis issues ranging control mosques collection donations Karachi While killing Maulana Qadri first profile intra Sunni sectarian tension between Sunnis Shias country least people killed least cases religious terrorism since military Pakistan I asked about influx Afghan refugees Pakistan Pakistanis thought about Taliban During Afghanistan occupation So Union Pakistan refuge three million refugees Presently million Afghans living Pakistan according Interior Minister Moinuddin Haider My explained Pakistan trying rising refugees western neighbor citing security esource constraints I later learned UN Islamabad refugee issue latter insisting camps opened Afghani those displaced worst drought years With international community closely watching Pakistan recently denied giving Taliban I asked whether believed Taliban threat Pakistan security She think never knows anything possible Pakistan Most educated urban Pakistanis support Taliban thinking I personally agrees their position women minorities Such oppressive government confining women their homes would never survive Pakistan Religious political ideologies generally Pakistanis There would protest movement would place country Karachi still standing despite years sectarian lence litary takeovers refugee crisis rainfall three years constant power shortages severe water scarcity Although public morale seems Deoband Bareilly cities India where these groups trace their origins The News Jihad veterans violence intra Sunni Monday May Dawn Newspaper Entry Points For Refugees To Remain Closed May INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS generally Karachiites found partmentalizing these problems order carry everyday This understandable people learned these daily frustrations police government turning blind local problems Each Karachi starts moment I hearing blaring cries horns Hindi music riding multi colored motor rickshaw three wheeled contraptions slowly asphyxiating Karachiites Though bumpy uncomfortable buzzing motor rickshaw experience worth having cheaper traveling The first Sunday after arrival I hailed rickshaw wallah asked Atwar9 Bazaar Khyaban Ittehad oughfares Karachi known Defense At bazaar covered color shamianas cloth canopies sprawl several acres I found fresh fruits spices pottery traditional handi crafts household items beautifully played fabrics cotton clothes vendors selling nimbu paani10 ganay11 Every conceivable found Atwar Bazaar tireless explorer Prices items shalwar kameez12 lower those regular shops bargaining still expected experience great finds themselves Feeling after successfully bargaining prices household items shalwar kameez light weight cotton I hopped another rickshaw headed Botal Gali Bottle Lane which famous vendors selling items recycled bottles perfumes This culiar little driver difficulty locat Nonetheless worth bumpy I spent delightful afternoon wandering through shops filled bottles every shape imaginable After exploring Karachi I still faced Atwar Bazaars translated Sunday Bazaars every Originally Juma Friday Bazaars every Friday which weekly holiday I friend became popular Atwar Bazaars followed Nimbu paani fresh thirst quencher crushed juice fresh limes sugar water Sugar juice Shalwar kameez traditional Pakistani clothing women It loose length shirt baggy trousers gathered waist LZK monumental finding place It doesn figure Pakistan about everything needed survival hinges connections opening account Pakistani banks needs current customer recommendation customer account buying refrigerator custom bargaining price signifi cantly finding driver finding place In people easier Within weeks after arrival thanks familial connections I found lovely annex cated property owner PECH Society Pakistan Employees Co operative Housing Society oldest historical neighborhoods Karachi Most homes includ chowkidaar caretaker watchman premises intains guards Finding place battle Being Pakistani origin I added dimension dealing cultural aspect being single Pakistani woman living alone Even fairly progressive minded somewhat alarmed puzzled I I would living Why would alone What people think single Pakistani female living alone Won scared I ready these questions carefully prepared swers I appreciated understood concerns It indeed unusual single Pakistani woman alone Pakistan based extended family I explained nature fellowship schedule traveling having place essential I reassured place I found fully secure belonged family friend After ising visit regularly finally around Nearly everyone I reaction hearing I living raised eyebrows individuals questioning decision concern people might finally friend reassuring I first woman alone Karachi I would It latter viewpoint I drawn strength I plunge challenge single Karachi Living alone something normal States But Pakistan social constraints I through period doubt questioned choice turally inappropriate I clear answers followed instinct which forward decision despite others advising I found myself peculiar position defending justifying choice I laugh myself I think point I philosophically explaining family friends there element nearly everythi encounters I hopeful would minimized I publicize living arrangement After settling annex I visited Mazaar Quaid Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah Mausoleum The monument erected honor country founder Mohammad Ali Jinnah called Quaid Azam Great Leader shaped structure white marble Over years I heard grandfather speak reverence Mohammad Ali Jinnah lieved Pakistan should homeland Muslims government should remain secular This shared Sir Syed Ahmad Khan urged Muslims India espouse modern education belief there contradiction tween Islam selective adoption Western order modernize The Muslim awareness initiated Sir Syed espoused grandfather INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS recited touched their heads cloths laiden garlands covering Saint On female mazaar women meditating prayer beads reading chapters Qur I asked watchful sitting trance mazaar could about history place He Sindhi Urdu which I could follow Urdu Abdullah Shah Ghazi first people bring Islam Sindh could perform miracles healing blind He pointed direction freshwater spring located below shrine itself which Saint discov Today hundreds pilgrims drink water spring which faithful lieve cures ailing As I leaving mazaar I approached under small various gious relics stones nearby His Javaid Akhtar offered In spirit Palm reader Javaid Akhtar temporaries formation All Indian Mus League This movement eventually Mohammad Ali Jinnah vision theocratic Pa kistan emphasized Islamic principles freedom conscience speech emancipation women human tolerance At Mazaar Quaid I recalled grandfather telling Jinnah envisioned nation espousing Islamic rather spirit Islam The following I visited another mazaar pilgrimage political figure rather revered spiritual leaders Sindh Abdullah Shah Ghazi The Mazaar Abdullah Shah Ghazi located hillock above Clifton Beach Karachi burial Sufi saint The green domed monument miles dreds devotees flocking every offer fateha prayers At mazaar I struck evout Islam local superstition South Asian culture I visited mazaar Thursday evening entire comes alive sound qawwali14 highly popular devotional poetry music Many pilgrims seemed Sufism described mystical Islam Sufi Islamic mystic The original Sufis purists seeking unity God through direct experience means music dance poetry The early Sufis Indo subcontinent successful missionaries managed convert large number Hindus Islam partly because their tolerance other beflief systems It largely result Sufis Arab armies Islam spread South Central Asia Qawwali mystical devotional music roots Indo Pak subcontinent which often produces trance state listeners The qawwali introduced early Sufi Hindu preachers played active converting locals I ninth tenth centuries LZK being mazaar I decided rupees As I leave handed small stone called aqeek carnelian which brings protects travelers Indeed striking aspects about Paki stani culture society religion mixed local culture plays lives people Religious events their rituals ceremo structure I arrived Karachi during Islamic month Muharram which revered served Shia Muslims Shortly after rival invited ladies majlis prayer service where followers Shia faith gather mourn martyrdom Imam Husain grandson Prophet Muhammad which place Battle Karbala Iraq years A central aspect ladies majlis participatory aspect women attendance Women reenact Battle Karbala through narrative storytelling recitation nauha marsiya lyrical dirges lamenting death Imam Husain The majlis although deeply religious event bridges realm social spiritual The social inter action majlis provides often unattainable other Shia women My expressed coming imambara allow break daily routines chores giving space which completely At majlis experienced sense sukoon peace munion Each majlis I attended focused family Prophet The zakira15 reminded listeners follow example Prophet family particular Hazrat Zainab Hazrat Fatima Zehra granddaughter daughter Prophet respectively She reminded gathering about importance women Islamic After majlis I asked zakira about signifi cance these women Islamic istory Pakistani women She offered drive became animated began explain significance these historical figures women today Women today continue follow their footsteps demand rights years The Prophet continued elevated status women giving rights given women West hundred years These women important political decisions fought battles Our society corrupt today problems because religion Did Prophet child A daughter If God disliked women would believe He would given Him But He Women sense But women educate themselves areas particular Islam They cannot advance society until their rights Many women confidence because given chance She promised literature rights women Islamic perspective I She asked where I lived When I about living arrangement You brave bravery comes because educated This strength She wished success endeavors Allah bless drove I found sentiment echoed several women I Nearly every Muslim woman I encountered believed Islam given women rights added those rights misinterpreted patriarchal thinking religious clerics political leaders I spoke Nighat Taufiq program officer legal training depart Shirkat Gah women resource support Karachi about women positioning Is lamic context She women Pakistan disadvantaged history politics religion All these problems women today started General Zia Karachi safest cities women scious For example before Zia light Karachi confined place Men exactly where After Zia tried bring Islam Pakistan All prostitutes light forced scatter various parts This other women women uncomfortable about going anywhere selves I saying having light district thing perception women changed worse I asked Nighat considered herself Muslim Yes definitely replied Islam religion women Unfortunately Islam country fulfill their agendas So conve nient Islam control women A zakira refers women recites majlis INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS She continued In dition Islam I practice Bud dhism She laughed I because peace religion Islam teaches peace gotten I believe Buddha Prophet And After should prophets Arabia The Qu states there thousands prophets Neither women I reject their religiosity Both zakira Nighat wardly focused relationship religion Neither woman attributed disadvantages being woman being ordained stemming Islam religious dictates Both women emphatically defended their believed religion central their lives The confluence culture customs direct implications women realities often resulting ironies women defending Islam religion liberating women using Islam force existing patriarchal structures These accounts women exper iences religion suggest religion interwoven cultural tradition plays multi layered women lives deserves further exploration Faith indeed people where power hours where water running where people cross roads without looking oncoming trucks rickshaws buses where entire oughfares whole creating traffic religious procession place With occurrences considered prising Pakistanis Allah malik God looking after Author Khan Leena Z Title ICWA Letters South Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia South America Europe Russia Mideast North Africa Sub Saharan Africa ICWA Letters ISSN publis Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating founda incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Phone E Mail ICWA valley Fax Web Site Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Assistant Brent Jacobson Publications Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foun dation The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Fellows their Activities Shelly Renae Browning March AUSTRALIA A surgeon specializing hearing Dr Browning studying approaches traditional healers among Aborigines Australia hearing problems She B S Chemis University South studied physician patient relationships China Australia Thomas J Watson Fellowship M D Emory University Atlanta Before ICWAfellowship Fellow Skull Base Surgery Montreal McGill University Department Otolaryngology Wendy Call May MEXICO A Healthy Societies Fellow Wendy spending years Mexico Isthmus Tehuantepec immersed contradictory trends attempt industrialize develop along proposed Caribbean Pacific containerized railway desire indigenous peoples preserve their Mexico remaining growth forests With B A Biology Oberlin Wendy worked communications coordinator Grassroots International national campaign director Infact corporate accountability organization Martha Farmelo April ARGENTINA A Georgetown graduate major psychology minor Spanish Maste Public Affairs Woodrow Wilson School Princeton Martha Institute Suzanne Ecke McColl Fellow studying gender issues Argentina Married Argentine doctoral candidate mother small focusing genders which immensely important Italo Latino machismo Martha involved Latin America professional having worked Catholic Relief Services Inter American Development Bank Costa Rica Human Rights Watch Ecuador Inter American Foundation El Salvador Uruguay UN World Conference Women Beijing Gregory Feifer January RUSSIA With fluent Russian Master Harvard Gregory worked Moscow political editor Agence France Presse weekly Russia Journal He Russia latest failures economic political reform continuation failed attempts Westernization began Peter Great failures succession behind scenes elites Russia behind mythic facade strong rulers centuries He plans assess continuation these cultural underpinnings Russian governance Gorbachev Yeltsin succession Curt Gabrielson December EAST TIMOR With Missouri background MIT degree physics Curt spending years East Timor watching nation create education system ashes Indonesian system Since finishing M I T Curt focused delivering inexpensive culturally relevant hands science education minority income students Based Teacher Institute Exploratorium San Francisco worked youth teachers Beijing Tibet Mexican American agricultural Watsonville California Peter Keller March CHILE Public affairs officer Redwood National Park planner Yosemite National Park fellowship Peter holds B S Recre ation Resource Management University Montana Mas Environmental Law Vermont Law School As John Miller Musser Memorial Forest Society Fellow spending years Chile Argentina comparing operations parks forest reserves trolled Chilean Argentine governments those controlled private persons governmental organizations Leena Khan April PAKISTAN A U S lawyer previously focused immigration international business Leena studying status women under Islamization Pakistani began 1980s Born Pakistan immersed Persian Urdu literature grandfather Muslim holds B A North Carolina State University J D University San Diego