© 2007 Institute of Current World Affairs
The Institute awards long-term fellowships to develop a deep understanding of an issue, country, or region outside the US and to share that understanding with a wider public.
Institute of Current World Affairs - Home Page

Below is a hobbled text version of a PDF document.
In order to read the actual document please click the link below and register if necessary.
(One-time registration is free and very quick.)
Read article

10/5/2001 - Spaceship to Argentina: Observations Upon Landing II by Martha J. Farmelo

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Joseph Battat Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler William F Foote Kitty Hempstone Pramila Jayapal Peter Bird Martin Ann Mische Dasa Obereigner Paul A Rahe Carol Rose Chandler Rosenberger John Spencer Edmund Sutton Dirk J Vandewalle HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A MJF THE AMERICAS Martha Farmelo Institute Suzanne Ecke McColl Fellow tudying gender issues Argentina Her email georgetown Spaceship Argentina Observations Upon Landing II By Martha Farmelo OCTOBER BUENOS AIRES In first newsletter I described three viction fellowship spaceship shared initial impressions first Argentina described contradictions first jumped The purpose second newsletter share additional first impressions about Argentine society about diversity homogeneity So Who More Italian Anglo Argentine Italian American I drawn Argentina similarity between culture Italian American heritage When teenager I first traveled Italy I myself literally So I I I standing close traffic Rome Piazza Barberini surrounded people looked greeted other kisse opined emphatic gesticulation I sometimes ribbed lings speaking I vindicated My paternal grandparents southern Italy My middle Alessandro after grandfather eleven orphaned uncle joined friendly family Naples sailed Ellis Island Years later worked tannery north Pennsylvania where clean hides imported Argentina At returned province Caserta marry first Philomena eldest eight children They before He returned again marry youngest sister Pasqualina grandmother They three first father On mother I qualify Daughters American Revolution trace lineage President William H Taft However Italian tends dominate stronger siblings because spent Latin America several years Central Americans ticular expressed surprise I violated stereotype light haired light skinned North American spoke Spanish decent accent routinely inquired about ethnic background They inevita replied sponse Italian explained everything On first Buenos Aires I stunned strength Italian influence language people physical appearance archi tecture utterly I Over month I gotten Italian names everywhere I publics named Badaloni Marconi feminists quoted article women peacemakers named Magui Bellotti Mabel Bellucci former Minister Foreign Relations Guido Tella political scien friend Marcela Natalicchio judge appellate court Buenos Ai named Carlos Pizzatelli known leader Madres Plaza Mayo named Hebe Pastor Bonafini Argentines speak Spanish which castellano Castillian striking Italian Over increased Spanish speed light Salvadoran accent picked providers Washington given marked Argentine accent English Qu lindo paaarque beautiful playground And after Daaaddy I iiiice cream Beyond accent Argentine Spanish replete Italian vocabulary idioms Argentines exclaim ecole ecolecua direct imports Italian Left I astounded stand cavernous where Ferraiuolo perhaps relatives Argentina their first meals Buenos Aires Immigrants Hotel Below Here dining looked roughly there I heard mangia Italian And I sneezed someone actually replied Salute Garibaldi health Guiseppe Garibaldi father modern Italy liant soldier Risorgimento In early 1800s mastered techniques guerrilla warfare while fight Uruguay R Grande Sul southern section Brazilian empire seeking tablish itself independent republic But favorite Argentine gnocchi delectable little round pasta tatoes Here oquis ghost employees people payroll never often family members politicians In Argentina there tradition families together month gnocchis money under their plates which supposed attract wealth Hence other gnocchis collect their paychecks Candi dates October MJF elections agree latter gnocchi They speaking press public formal terminology there congressional payroll The Italian influence traced directly massive immigration spanning 1800s early 1990s According Carlos D Alejandro Essays Economic History Argentine Republic between there immigration about million country whose population million In every other resident Buenos Aires foreign Out every immigrants would Italy three Spain northwestern Europe Balkans Europe The percentage Buenos Aires increased significantly among foreign comprised majority Furthermore today dreadful levels under unemployment Argentina employment economy which temporary joblessness resolved going country labor countries United States According Argentine sociologist Ronaldo Munck nearly workers Buenos Aires belonged Mutual Benefit Societies dominated vehicles mutual worker solidarity political protagonism The Italian societies numerous organized They often schools anarchism social other thinking played considerable building class solidarity early trade unions Many Argentines today descendents Italians Spaniards others consider themselves Argentines would never dream hyphen ating their identity Italian Americans African Americans Nonetheless I noticed Ar gentines often refer others Tano Italian whose daughter migrated Gallego Galician refer Spaniards sells fruits vegetables corner When seeking pediatrician Camilo I referred Brit German French Hospitals originally built Mutual Ben Societies their respective migrant communities When activities Columbus Day weekend I puppet offered Asociaci Italiana Belgrano neighborhood north And effort build mutual understanding Federaci Arabe Jabad Lubavitch Jewish community organization participated soccer match their teams The Federaci Arabe Actually strength ethnic identity seems family family person person As I sipped espresso something woman grated Spain thrilled about traveling adult homeland But after Hey Argentina highly consolidated Argentine identity At This Italian citizenship reflects today reverse emigration largely result Argentina profound economic crisis Argentina recently rated risky country foreign investment entire world surpassing Pakistan Nigeria A recent editorial London Financial Times argued longer worth investing Argentina INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS sister Buenos Aires siders herself indisputably Spanish Argentine My partner Alan I other about which Italian percent Italian blood Buffalo New York Italian blood outskirts Buenos Aires In event moving Buenos Aires produced profound sense homecoming Mysteriously holds I understand woman cleaner think train platform Locutorio indicates station oddly actually place several public phones station African American Argentina For Day The Sore Thumb Effect In almost weeks since I arrived I often ticed Buenos Aires similar New York The buildings bustles New York It magnificent nightlife packed people taxis buses businesses small ground level above But course New York hallmarks diversity people Indi viduals there world about anything terms clothing behavior appear That Argentina cosmo politan Buenos Aires The words flash brain I around homogeneity conformity People dress similarly their fairly behave perfectly ceptable relatively narrow range conduct women supposed cross their fashion upper ankle resting above entire upper touching other And while basic fashion doesn change Men still sweaters under their blazers women fitting pants skirts relatively subdued colors Even purple leather shoes jackets surprisingly understated Perhaps apparent homogeneity strikes ticular because I spent years Wash ington DC enormous racial cultural diver When I changed I anxious women health mindful Dorothy Roberts inquiry Killing Black Body Race Reproduction Mean Liberty How possibly about repro ductive health policy without addressing gender I fortunate Religious Coaliti Reproductive Choice where staff roughly Af rican American Black Church Latino Initia tives involve hundreds clergy addressing nancy related issues How those experiences serve Argentina At first blush I I leaving issues behind Since I I count people African descent I heard there racism Argentina unlike neighboring Brazil Uruguay there handful Blacks Argentina actually Argentine Fortunately brought George Reid Andrews The Afro Ar gentines Buenos Aires which excellent recon structing Black history Argentina especially social economic political roles Afro Argentines abolition Afro Argentines constituted percent popula Buenos Aires percent However Andrews demonstrates Afro Argentines disappear rather erased awareness As gotten Three weeks after arrival freshman college roommate Monica about hours These matrons members Afro Argentine middle class photographed dance Photograph Argentine National Archive recruit students Georgetown business school Al though other African American Euro American roommates floor split within months shared wonderfully harmonious closet sized space Just months Monica previous Buenos Aires pleasant walked replica Big Ben jacent Retiro train station I asked share experiences detail First representatives other versities travels about Buenos Aires because European making clear things people European white their minds inher ently superior Inside I thought positive about Buenos Aires racist She glaring stares people She understands curiosity people sometimes Many called negra Monica understands Spanish though about anyone translate If group things gener OK But alone often service For example stood black marble concierge Sheraton Buenos Aires swankiest hotels Numerous white guests dered after attended before Shortly after I P leftist daily about brought against Facundo Mazzini Uriburu Elisa Souza Melgarejo Afro Uruguayan lived Buenos Aires since On March while groceries Ma zzini Uriburu All Blacks should killed little month grandson I telling Black Black slumdweller whore birthed A negros matarlos todos desde chiquitos negra mierda negra villera Perhaps surprising though I suspect Alan friends African ancestors I would offense inquire On other Argentine sister Cristina Negra affection which uncommon Argentines refer fondness public figures legendary folksinger Mercedes Sosa Negra Sosa Before taking legal action Melgarejo consulted National Institute Against Discrimination Xenophobia Racism agency Ministry Interior The Institute investigates violations hibits discrimination based religion national ideology political opinion economic position social class physical characteristics carries educational programs promote social cultural ralism combat discriminatory attitudes The judge decided trial He reaffirmed right speech ruled Mazzini Uriburu aggressive intimidating lated prohibition behavior encourages perse cution hatred against person group because their I firsthand people African descent experience Saturday Monica I spent together To celebrate anniversary friend This Plaza Italia subway platform wishes Jews Happy New Year urges celebrate High Holy Days traveled neighboring Colonia Uruguay minute across R Plata massive white ferry While sitting small square black table termina Buquebus company could waiter As I lifted right And after airplane seats return haired gentleman strik ingly obvious staring Monica I decided stare equally obviously separated inches After minute apparently became uncomfortable enough justify staring Yup really windy This really going bounce around today Monica decided experiences trips Still I Buenos Aires would directly Lima Per I visit artisan markets there prefer somewhere where stare Also would I Latin America country European I Europe I Latin America I Latin American country Clea Blacks still novelty Argentina In press other reference I someone African descent Argentina profile Sep tember magazine La Naci inter racial couple journalists Eliana Patricia Melgarejo Souza daughter Elisa Souza Melgarejo tioned above Horacio Emb Jewish Both describe experiences racism For example Horacio quoted being Russians incapable falling Jews often referred Rusos because emigrated Argentina Russia Religious Cultural Diversity More Than Meets Eye Although I people different races I Washington Argentina means mogeneous society While population Buenos Aires white Catholic I already sense fabric Argentine society complex perceives first glance The Jewish community which ominantly Ashkenazi illustrates point Jews number about Argentina Buenos Aires prominent music journalism certain economy At Argentina harboring Nazi criminals highly Semitic Nazi elements armed forces Each Camilo school advertisement platform subway Plaza Italia activities related Jewish holidays Over weeks Jewish community highly visible first trial opened deadly bombing AMIA Asociaci Mutual Israelita Argentina Buenos Aires Jew Community Center On trial several Buenos Aires police officers accused securing vehicle MJF transport explosives The extremely complex investigation fraught malfeasance investigating judge including negligence destroyed evidence negotiations purchase testimony which himself illegally videotaped Just presiding judge announced intention subpoena former President Carlos Menem testify early apparently solid leads Iranian nection provided Argentine embassy Teheran investigated administration Given AMIA trial September attacks U S difficult people Arab descent Argentina Also attention given newly heightened security measures rounding triple border Argentina Paraguay Brazil Tourism nearby majestic Iguaz falls This sieve illegal entrants Argentina apparently center groups Islamic fundamentalists suspected planning terrorist activities Amazingly combination events reopened question whether armed forces should involved internal urity Like others I thought debate closed given their ghastly repression dictatorship Beyond Jewish community there considerable religious diversity Argentina This weekend there prayer service world peace obelisk organized youth Catholic Jewish Mus Orthodox Evangelical Pentecostal Hindu other communities During I surprised little I notice presence Catho church First seems there fewer churches Buenos Aires Washington DC Also I scattered Catholic imagery Virgen Mary Plaza Italia Catholic medallions around women necks With images seductive women bodies display every supremely sexual condoms health plans TV environment means sexually repressed I expected Last The Vagina Monologues fiction bestseller Librer Fausto chain bookstores An article recently presented normalize unions mentioned opposition Catholic church toward On other Catholic church INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Many Catholic churches contemporary unremarkable buildings Nuestra Se Loreto parish Coronel D Juncal about block where Palermo neighborhood Argentine politics society legendary Last I church squashed possibility sexuality education schools It succeeded defining beginning conception within stitution controls several municipal leaders Buenos Aires other provinces behind scenes Until constitution rewritten President Roman Catholic though witness former President Carlos Menem simply converted Islam Ca tholicism Also entitled President godfather Catholic ritual And couple seventh daughter The answer I received I expecting worse My reside Burzaco suburb south Buenos Aires given troduction growing evangelical movement Ar gentina One Sunday I attended local Brethren church Alan mother I wondered I would Alan mother called Let Me Be Woman Notes My Daughter Meaning Wom anhood The author Elisabeth Elliott asserts learn means woman start Drawing Genesis states God created female forth initiate female spond follow adapt submit woman cepts limitations womanhood finds those limitations gifts special calling wings perfect freedom God My mother apologized having something herself dislikes tolerates As black I afraid purple light flowers would offend But I pastor black scarf silver pattern throughout I relaxed The walls simple chapel combination paint exposed brick Solo Cristo Salva Only Christ Saves painted above yellow windows We joined about others including several humbly dressed young wooden benches straight planks backs The pulpit lovely modest wooden enormous fresh lilies front there altar I startled pastor dressed suddenly behind touched elbow Do another church whispered No I replied Are baptized inquired I clutched paused answered No Although I baptized Presbyte church I imagined wanted I baptized adult therefore I would large bread extra sweet alcohol smelling Betty leaned I daughter Norteam silently appeared disappeared again Except sermon being close Christ times soothing service reminded Quaker meeting periods silent prayer inter rupted occasionally stood prayed first verse organist congregation would The refrain asked repeatedly If God works thusly earth heaven Si Dios tierras cielo After service I nected Alan mother walked along broken sidewalk Betty leaning enough support ailing Ra Ethnic Class Diversity The Fabric Takes Bumpy Texture In addition variety religious groups looks closely there racial ethnic diversity Buenos Aires originally meets I heard frequent references Bolivian Peruvian Para guayan immigrants search miserable conditions slums Argentines MJF villas miserias outskirts Buenos Aires I certain haired golden skinned women their vegetables shirts women underwear small plastic sheets along streets apartment Bolivian But I equally Emilio mainte nance apartment building Bolivian Peruvian until northwestern province Salta which borders Chile Bolivia Paraguay At first I suspected afraid admit being illegal immigrant However truth I never Salta known anyone there I about region since conver sation indicates native Argentine In I learned indigenous groups numerous including example Atacamas Ava Guaran Cochinocas Diaguito Calchaqu Huarpe Kolla Mapuche Mocov Ocloya Omaguacas Pilag Purmamarca Qom Toba Ranquel Tehuelche Wich I learned several campaigns under protect expand rights native Argentine indig enous groups opposed indigenous groups other countries Since least generations Argentines avidly followed adventures Teheulche comic superhero Patoruz This defender noble causes superpowers relies great fortune father hidden temple Patagonia I heard cabecitas negras erally little black heads refer Argentines interior noticeably Ind cases African ancestry At I street called Thames Camilo school English reference eclipsed presence handful Asian businesses Not there I caught glimpse Chinese Christian Church Argentina quite frankly stereotypical Argentine calls Asian people chinos Chinese I Asians I China Korea somewhere One medium sized Asian owned supermarket along Thames called Supermercado Bendici Blessing In addition Asian characters which I guess Chi letters Bendici squarish Chinese restaurants U S On first Sundays Palermo neighborhood strolled storefront advertised Chinese Food Rotiser rotisserie chicken Although market decided something seemed strange Argen rotisserie Chinese establishment I heard residents Once Eleven neighborhood Buenos Aires formerly Jewish ghetto indignant number Koreans sweatshops other businesses there Of course Alan family exposed members Anglo Argentine community especially their habit having scones evening So Satur sunbathing towering trees Hurlingham suburb where Katrina North Ameri mother speaks almost Spanish feels quite En glish speaking community The English fluence around Buenos Aires INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS When train Burzaco stations Banfield Temperley Although travel right Argentina trains posite tracks compared United States subways I learn about Argentina complexities course intersect today critical class divides which themselves middle class continues slide faster faster below poverty The class issue visible ridden transportation especially those trains Burzaco Camilo loves rectangular windows anticipates seeing cargo Avellaneda stables horses Lanus As I daydream passed fathers children walking slowly along paths parallel tracks white trucks deliveries other goods young women platforms sitting across their boyfriends clusters white backs stickers bedroom windows graffiti about leftist politics gypsy women breastfeeding their My daydreaming stantly interrupted stream people hawking kinds products About percent different percent small women These vendors almost invariably visibly working class lower class given their clothing shoes their darker There indeed notice connection between class color Argentina generally darker toward indigenous features rather African lower socio economic class These vendors goods ranging price pesos including things cigarette lighters plastic table cloths phones alfajores Argentine treats dulce leche extra sweet version These sellers extremely elaborate speeches given their wares The first appeared train I thought selling computer which laughable He actually selling plastic covers personal computer pitch volved I assumed product sophis ticated A typical sales pitch something Ladies Gentlemen please forgive inter rupting lovely afternoon I goodness listen minutes while I about offer special I boxes matches likes which stayed Actually there I assure Camilo totally overwhelmed hired remember Holding match These matches Alan presence might freed elaborated finest break spend getting other parents light gliding along They The overwhelmed I abundant solid light instant shocked Casandra birthday strip lighting simply appeared length princess outfit In store would least child exchange their matches I offer party favors amazing boxes matches matches matches I delighted found indoor swimming right grimy heart again relearn rules Instead people sharing I would never picked Alan individual circling around three mented their sophisticated vocabulary swimmers present detailed sales pitches clashes their accent going cross under nylon things dropping final words which divider other I gives lower class particularly ervous about prospect crowded space I It exhausting along trains I noticed morning trains vendors quite energetic their speeches shorter punch On Being Foreign Yet At Home With I foreigner Buenos Aires Argentine I careful about I speak Strangely I often foreign oddly I delighted I longer spell In U S invariably That Frank Mary I comfortable traveling small Honda Civic looks using washing The tiled Julio subway depict scenes colonial chine hanging clothes On Ar gentin This mural shows workers stacking grains other I often clueless about Buenos Aires basic cultural norms For example I baffled I movies A Favorite Moment Day gloriously theater massive screen A evening The Buenos Aires subway extremely convenient Sta asked ticket tions still elaborately tiled scenes depicting themes I purchased 1830s Buenos Aires Cuzco majestic pected natural wonders Iguaz falls colonial provinces Spain The trains refurbished The first Camilo school invited classmate system privatized On school birthday party Sunday afternoon I Camilo insists riding caboose Upon disembark waves rators spend Fortunately another Nine times flash mother called invite lights train disappears station group mothers I If I invariably respond disappoint understanding Camilo I sometimes women attend these parties Alan INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS interestingly nothing respectful deferential Even young showed mostly horsed around entirely quite cordially stayed Ironically times I truly condescended involve Marlo Thomas alike named Fabiana works optical beautiful building She insists which feels little So I noticed flirtatious remarks piropos bothered videographer Casandra party The first planted against I crouched Camilo I assumed I simply The second third times however I began suspect choice angles coincidence Camilo entry school opened doors getting families small children At little presence sometimes causes strangers strike conversation One haired older woman grocery store wearing brown skirt printed smiled I lifted Camilo child shopping later spied deciding between strawberries produce She blurted always wished affectionate little girls stereotype little In check I could barely handsome something woman sheveled teenage ahead They stood close other chatting heads looking until fetch something forgotten Upon return laughed together about their respective plans Like I spent years families neighboring Uruguay moment captures overriding idealized vision relation between mothers Southern Cone I young Argentines supposedly direction I certain teens fight their parents I rarely observed angst alienation tension parents afflict North American teens I clutch vision mother future Camilo I would learn about makes relationship meaning potential holds machista society After several women smoking Marlboros commented workshop human rights mothers responsible transmitting their machista values dominate Ar gentina today In identified feminist activist sitting behind large wooden confessed arrived Saturday night failed about responsibility coming reasonable Instead accosted asking What wrong girlfriend mother control daughter I mother I reflected Life Buenos Aires vides thought ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Phone E Mail ICWA valley Fax Web Site Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Assistant Brent Jacobson Publications Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Af fairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The information contained lication reproduced writer permission Author Farmelo Martha J Title ICWA Letters The Americas ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia Sub Saharan Africa Mideast North Africa South Asia Europe Russia Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experi promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues