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6/1/2000 - A Final Trip Around the Horn by Marc Michaelson

A Final Trip Around Horn ByMarc Michaelson Transcript speech delivered theMembers Trustees meeting Ofthe InstituteofCurrentWorldAffairs Monmouth NJ June In Ethiopia Eritrea Africa newest country there sfinallypeace Democracyis ingroot Poverty isonthedecline andtheagri cultural sector blossoming Trade expand ingandinvestment ispouringinasonce leery investors piece African Renais sance That showIhadhopedto startthis report Sorry I llbegivingtoday When I arrived Ethiopia January country That applied foranICWAfellowship learn about exciting progress EthiopiaandEritrea Unfortunately things again turned disas proneHornofAfrica Asnapshotshows theregionriddledwithallthefamiliartrag Theauthor edies famine forced displacement floods fires droughts plague ofAIDS Tocomplete biblicalcycle fcalamity I vebeenexpectingthe custs arrive It tasteless swhatwe expatriates reduced badhumor isacopingmechanismforthoseofuswhoarefrustrated standing helplesslybyasourhostnation destructsbeforeourveryeyes Today I share observations stories ICWA travels Like fellowship thiswillbeawhirlwindtourofsorts jumpingfromtopictotopic andplace place So ifyouhaven talreadydoneso buckleyourseatbelts We going Let start atmyhouse inAddisAbaba capital ofEthiopia Afewweeks Ihostedaparty ItWasachancetosharesomelastgoodtimeswithfriends Thebeerflowed Ethiopian delicaciesweremunchedandI bypopulardemand atemyhat Actually itwasacake intheshapeofahat Thathat eatingdaredatedbacktoFebruary Iconfidentlypro claimed group colleagues Eritreawould never accept Organiza tionofAfricanUnity OAU peaceproposal IunderstoodtheEritreanpsyche stubbornness strength vision unwavering mitmentto fightonifneedbe Well Thenextmorning Ethiopia captured disputedhamlet ofBadime within48 hours Eritrea accepted peace My friends started calling demandIdevourmyhat I story illustrate humbling unpredictability ofthisregionanditspeoples Themind logic world incredibly different fromourown Tomymind itisinconceivable uncon scionable Ethiopian Eritrean governments should choose possibility peace close athand andwhenmillionsoftheirpeople arehun thousands actually starving USAmbassadortotheUNRichardHolbrooke experienced mediating stubborn leaders thornyconflicts wasshockedbythis senselesswar I amtoo To border seems foolish leaders hearted arrogant But Ethiopia Eritrea historical maintainloftyideals ofsovereigntyandideas ofnational greatnessandgrandeur Peoplecanstarve theeconomy collapse fires control never NEVERwill territorybeusurpedbyaninvader I dispute right ofany government national sovereignty Butthis conflictwaseminently resolvablebypeace fulmeans Thetwo governments callouslychosen towageanextremelyexpensivewarandignorethewel SAUDI ARABIA YEMEN DJIBO Djibo O Addis Ababa AFRICAN SUDAN ETHIOPIA KENYA DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF oNairobi CONGO RWAI BI TANZANIA their populations Both nations firmly bottom United Nations Development Program UNDP HumanDevelopmentIndex Eritrea isnum 167and Ethiopia isnumber Andyetthe governments together squandered upwards ofabillion dollarsonthiswar AsEthiopia sPrimeMin ister recently We stomachs protectour sovereignty Fair enough should Ethiopia expect inter nationalcommunityto people Thiswar likemanyofthe scomplexconflicts raisestroublingquestionsforhumanitarianaction When andwhereshouldweact Whenshouldwerefrain How suffering people simultaneously embolden leadership I found answers Asbrutalasthiswarhasbeen simportantnotto forget themanyconnections thatbind peoples WhenI visited Eritrean trenches I story about radio operatorwhohadbeenmonitoring Ethio piancommunications HeheardanEthiopiansoldieron thefrontlinesontheradiowitha friend We rehungry Send All roasted barley snack His colleague replied Don worry whenwewinthe llhave plenty ofmeat At point Eritrean soldier breaks radio silence interjects Buddy afewdays llbeeating The Ethiopian calls laughing My brother I thinkwe llbothbeeating Meles Isaias leaders drinking whiskey On front lines I young female Eritrean soldier named Zebib Zebib Addis Ababa speaks Amharic officiallanguage Ethiopia Forthisreason shewas putin charge ofprisoners ofwar Zebib about experiences battle Geza Gerlassie During battle I recognized P O W surrendered platoon His Habtom andhewas ofmyneighbors MM inAddisAbaba Iwasshockedtoseehimthereandhe frightened death I worry would After battle ended wegavethemwaterandmilk andwashedtheirclothes Zebib Habtom encounter front lines showsagainhowpeopleare tiedtogether bothasneigh borsand enemies As walked along trenches Major Tewolde guide warnedus tokeep quiet Thefrontlineswere frighteningly close point about meters If Ethiopians heard voices activity might grenade trench Despite tensi Tewolde Sometimes night bring trenches music other That right duringthedaytheyshoot ateachotherand atnightthey share theircommoncultural heritage These three anecdotes simple reminders these bitter rivals actually siblings albeit lingsengaged deadlyfamilysquabble I started fairly disturbing snapshot But aside gloom present moment andtakealookatthelonger termtrends Ethiopia ispro gressing althoughslowly unsteadily infitsandstarts muchliketheoldRussianLadacars thattransportEthio pians around Addis Ababa Despite current Iremainguardedlyoptimistic Thisisprobablyin partdueto aflawed butit alsodueto afewposi signs ofincremental change Afewexamples Inmid MayEthiopiaheldtheseconddemocratic election history Tono surprise ingpartydominate Someopposition candidateswere harassed andjailed there proved access media relatively transparent votingprocedures Ethiopia press freer beeninthepast Privatenewspapersareflourishingand criticizing government policy Journalists still sionallythrowninprison buttheycontinue tospeakup speak Since previous Derg government political violence diminished oppressive measures curfews Nolonger people turning street murdered political cadres expressing government sentiment Have illusionS remains inEthiopia Thebureaucracy forinstance lremainsim penetrableandinefficient Iexperiencedthisinefficiency WhenI firstarrivedinEthiopia Iwenttoopenaninternet Institute Current World Affairs accountandwastold Ihadtopaywithacheck Noprob I account bankwouldn topenanaccountunless Ihadaresident permit SoIwentto getaresidentpermitandtheyasked foraworkpermit Itri edtogetaworkpermitandthey ICWAhad memorandum under standing MOU government Around around around I finally asked friend writemethe darned check The bottom Ethiopian government still loves micro manage economic Internalizing culture democracy opening economy takemanydecades Butin assessing political social change continent important realistic Ethiopia feudal monarchy dreds years It magically transform liberaldemocracyovernight What simportantisthe directionofthemotion War ishamperingthe efforts butEthiopia continues forward Nowlet shoponboardDaaloAirlines foratrip northern Somalia Daalo Somali owned airline leasesoldSovietAeroflotplanesfromAirTajikistan This airline doesn IATA approval quent flyerprogram soholdontight Wearrive inHargeisa ofSomaliland Muchof world givenup Somalia In coined concept failed state tinues associated chaos violence But thenorth twofledglingnationshavesproutedfromthe rubble Somalia civil Somaliland Puntland To sense changes taking place northern Somalia downtown Hargeisa Thecityistemperateanddusty bullet pocked buildings potent reminders destructive ofthe 80sand Rightontheside ofthe street moneychangershawk stacks currency unarmed unprotected Pri vatebankstransfermoneymoreefficientlythanCitibank funds deposited Toronto NewYork LosAnge delivered toSomalirelativesinlessthan24hours Phone companies offer crystal clear distance nections anywhere world minute cents Fridays evenings These lowestrates inAfricaand competitivewithother gions ofthe world Econo growth development Somaliland harvest critical lessons reliance As unrecog nized political entity Somaliland slipped through thecracksoftheclubofnations Ithasthusbeenignored World Bank USAID other major funders Somaliland lobbying international diplo matic recognition since unilaterally declaring indepen dencein Butdiplomatsridingaroundinfancy andsocializing atcocktailreceptionswilladdlittlevalue towhatthe people ofSomalilandhave accomplished their accord Granted government poorly poorly motivated Many bureaucrats rarely evenbothercomingtowork Butin spite ofthis thegov ernmenthasrestoredandmaintainedpeace They vecre ateda stableenvironmentinwhichSomaliscandowhat theydobest business More percent budget spent curity Somalis government meddling utilities orlevyingheavytaxesorpassingrestrictive islation Much Americans government stripped ebone staying theirway UnlikethesouthofSomalia Somalilandmadepeace established government without holding fancy peace conferences inthe glitzyhotels ofdistant capitals Therewerenowarlordshuggingandfeigningstatesman return their fiefdoms their peacefulpromises Somaliland undertaken indigenous ganic process Melding together modern tradi tional government leadersworkhard thepeace anddoingsodemandscontinuousattention That whytheMinisterofCivilAviationisrarelyfoundinthe muchless atthe airport He susuallyoutinhishome townofErigavo mediating conflicts When I visited Burao devastated Hargeisa I stumbled major peace Afewmonthsearlier threemenfromtheHabrJa clanwerekilledbymembers oftheHabrYonis InSomalitraditionallaw offender andhis mustpay camels aggrieved family repara tionsforthecrime Isatinonam eetingof20eldersfrom clans hashed arrangements paymentoftheblood price After Muslimprayer elders gathered meeting They hours lounging large drinking sugarymilk andchewing cotic Theylistenedpatientlytoeachother slengthy speeches They talked talked until theycame resolu Thatishowlocal levelpeace continues tobemain tained north ofSomalia Nowlet sflyovertoSudan Thetwomainpolitical actors President Omar Hassan Bashir rebel leaderJohnGarang oftheSPLA theSudanese Peoples Liberation Army These human rights shredding brutesmaintaintheir gripsonpowerbydividingpeople instigating fight Northerners southerners Christians Muslimsdon ttrusteachother pitted against another ravaging civilwarthathas leftabouttwomillionpeopledeadand sixmillionmoredisplaced Taking sides astheUShas donein supportfor theSPLA hasdonelittle tOmake peace Infact ithasperpetuatedandfueledtheconflict MostSudanese Ispoke toonmyshort tired vehadenoughofthe vehadenough their government But helpless unable effectpoliticalchange EnterthePeople sLegalAidCen PLACE Placeisasmallbutrevolutionaryor ganization thatprovides legal services displaced people It founded Rifaat Osman Sudanese humanrights lawyer What remarkable about PLACE arefearlesslyrepresentinga9 oldgirlwhowas legedly raped policeman defend ingacouple sentenced death stoning adultery Theseareimportantlegalchallenges butwhatisremark ableaboutPLACEisthesimplecompositionofits staff PLACE lawyers regions diverse ethnicities different religions It microcosm SudananditsmembersareshowingtheSudanesepeople together together This countersthemessages ofthegovernmentandSPLA messages siveness hatred mistrust PLACE chopping these barriers It already under attack The government brought several PLACE lawyers aggressive interrogation Anticipating trouble arrangements other families should theybe detained evenworse PLACEhaschosenthe turtle itsmascotanditsmem bersexpecttheirlaborstotakemanyyearstobearfruit Thusfar I vebeendraggingyouaround fromEthio piaandEritrea Somaliaand thenSudan NowI shift gears mention theme impacts every country theHorn forced displacement The droughts politics Horn pushed people around uprooted ripped their homes families possessions Some refugees others displaced theirowncountry I spent considerable amount talking rootedpeople InAsmara capitalofEritrea Icouldn street coffee outdoor withoutmeetingadeportee Iinterviewedseve cludingHarnetKidane tomboy bornand raised inAddisAbabato Eritrean bornparents Wefirst arrival Eritrea after grueling tense crossing middle night Eritrean troops MM highalert shotatthemuntiltheyheardwomenandchil cryingand realized theywere civilians The group warned stray because areawasmined Harnet initial anger subsided second meeting later couldn incident outofhermind Whileshewasdetained inAddisAbaba herbrothercametosaygoodbye buttheguard stopped herfromseeinghimandslappedher She llneverforget treatment received thehands ofthe Ethiopian authorities Thousands deported youths Harnet willgrowup harboring angerand resentment SudaneserefugeeslivingincampsinWesternEthio piaface differentproblems Materially theyarerelatively cared But refugees thantenyears Anentire generationofchildren isgrow ingupinthepurgatory likewelfareworldofthecamps They learnhowto surviveonthe fruits theirownlabor They knowonlythateverymonthsome bigtruckswillbringsacks offood aidandmornanddad their share Someday these children resettled theywillnodoubthaveproblems functioning realworld Asyoucan tripwejust theHorn ofAfrica remains fraughtwithproblems I learned tremendousamountonthisfellowship justnotwhat I hadexpected I dplannedto lookatpost conflictnation buildingbutinsteadfoundmyselfinvestigatingpost flictconflict building Ah theirony Ichosethisregionto study peace months after arrival brutal border broke And ultimate irony TODAY I report Ethiopia Eritrea signing apeace agreement toend thatwar Assomeofthe stories I sharedtodayshow there small bubblings peace progress If I teaseouton ebiglessonfromthepasttwoyears itwould importance constructive engagement But needs smarter constructive gagementthan itistoday Americamaybethe soleremainingsuperpower theHornofAfricaisahumblingplace Ourforeignpolicy disaster pitfalls taking sides conflicts In Sudan support SPLAhas little civil And result taking sides against Mohamed Farah Aideed humanitarian intervention Somalia civil As Ethiopia Eritrea tries fight their matterwhatwe We wastefulness throwingmoney Mostaid toAfricahasnotresultedindevelopment Ithascreateddependencyanddebtanddiscouragedself Institute Current World Affairs reliance Thisdoesn tmeanweshouldn Itjustmeanswe needto actsmarter Todoso weneedabetterinformedand moreconsistentforeignpolicy Onethatismore humble doesn arrogantly control events But which encourages peace democracy development If leaders their countries ground sadly their prerogative We But wecan certainlynudgethemin right direction If Ethiopian government ownresponsi bility fighting border ternational community responsibility feeding starvingpeopleinthe south there ssomethingseriously wrong We promote accountability avoid encouraginglousygovernance Asasuperpower ample resources incentives disincen tives carrotsand sticks Wejustneedtousethemmore consistentlyandmoreintelligently I tomake finalcommentontheICWAexpe rienceandfamilyandwhat smeanttomeoverthese pastfewyears Asmuchas I vevalued opportunity learn about Horn Africa I equally thankful ICWA another Just months after I awarded fellowship otherMarilynwas nosed cancer It devastating shockingnewsI deverreceived Mymotherwasthecen family She taught other people andthatwaswhatsentmetoAfricainthe first place AsI velearned anICWAfellowship isaboutboth professionalandpersonalgrowth TheInstitute notjust factory international professionals It supports odyssey learn about world ourselves ICWA force employers would choose betweenmycareerandmyfamily IstillrememberPe tertellingme Youwonthisfellowship Itwillbethere whenyouare ready Whata AndsoIwasable towatchasSomalieldersresolved athorny conflict I spend Christmas Millennium southern Sudanese refugees I chase camels pastoralists visit active Eritrean trenches AndmostimportantlIwasable tobewithmymom during final months share andgivebacksomeoftheloveshehadsh oweredonme thirty years For these opportunities I deeply grateful ICWAto Peter Trustees Institute family Thankyou A HistoryofEthiopia AbaAre AbdeI Aziz Abdi Araleh Abdi Ali Bayr Mohamoud Abdulkarim Abebaye Dad Aboker Aboker Musse Abraham Kinfe AdamAbdillahi Adaytu AddisAbaba AddisAbabaCivilServiceCollege Addis Pharmaceutical Factory Aden Hiis Adi Murug Bada Adigrat Adow Mohammed Hussein Adua adult literacy adultery Aeroflot Afa assey Afabet Afar Afar Region Afar conflict Afar peace meeting Afeworki Isaias African Renaissance Afwerki Isaias Agence France Presse Agere Maryam Agew endency Aideed Hussein Aideed Mohamed Farah Air Tajikistan Akli Mohamed Al ltihad Al ltihad Islamic fundamentalists Alaybede Albania Alemayu ALF Afar Liberation Front Alga Aliteina Ali Osman Hassan Aliteina Allemitu Ambesete Geleba Amhara Amharic amnesty ancestors Andemichael Wereda Annan Kofi Anuak Anuaks appropriate technology Aptidon Hassan Gouled Arab producing countries Arap Moi Daniel ArbaMinch ardah sleeping guests Ark Covenant ARRA Administration Refugee Returnee Affairs Arsi Province Ask Your Doctor Asmara Asmara airport Asmara airport bombing Asmerom Girma Assab Assab economy Assab Oil Refinery Assab Port Assab Salt Works assembly Ato Gebre Egziabehr Ato Osman Auberay Awasa Awash Awash Meeting Awash River Aweke Aster Awel Dewalle Axumite empire Axumite Kingdom Ayder Primary School azmari beyts traditional dance baboons Bada SeealsoAdi Murug Badime Badime front Badime trenches Bagoweini village Bahir Dar Gojjam Region Bakool Bale National Park Bale Province banking barabaso rubber sandals Barakaat barefoot doctors Barentu Baro River Barre Mohamed Siad Bashuka Bay BBC begging Belgium Benishangul Berbera berked cement lined water reservoir Bichiok Changkuoth blood prices BM rocket launchers Bole Bole airport Boqole Borama Bosasso Britain British Council library British Somaliland Protectorate Bulgaria Burao bureaucracy Burie Burkina Faso C camels Camtuk casualties battle casualty reports cattle children China Christianity Citizens Peace Eriti CPE civil 197491 differences history Clinton Bill CNN coffee coffee ceremony Colobus monkeys colonial COMESA Economic Community East Southern African States communications conflict management conspiracy theories constitution Constitution construction contracts contraband contraceptives Entries refertoICWALetters MM andpage iwithLetternumbergiven beforeeachpageentry corruption counterfeit currency detector courts crocodile CRS Catholic Relief Services culture currency currency values customary customs duties Daalo Airlines Dabayl Dallol Airlines Debre Zeyit Deda Dekamhare Deliberative Chambers Dembe Jefecke village democratic election Denakil Desert Denden mountain Deng William deportation deportees Derg dictatorship Derg government Derg Dhu Nwas Dinka Dinkas diplomatic recognition Dire Dawa Dire Dawa Conference Dire Dawa Regional Customs Director General Marine Depart Ministry Transporta Communication Djibouti DKTEthiopia doctors J3olo Mena spicy chicken drought drunkenness Dubai Duftir Durexcondoms F_ EC European Community economic development economy education Education Bureau Egal MohammedIbrahim Egypt Eidagelleh EPDM Ethiopian Peoples Democratic Movement Ephrem Isaac Ephrem Sebhat EPLF Eritrean People Liberation Front EPRDF Ethiopian People Revolution Democratic Front Erde Mattios Erigavo Eritrea Eritrea Profile Eritrean Defense Force Eritrean military Eritrean Pride Eritrean Public Health Program Eritrean women Eritrean Women sAssociation Eritrean Youth Association ERREC Eritrean Relief Refugee Commission Ethiopia Ethiopia Eritrea border conflict Ethiopia Somalia border Ethiopian Airlines Ethiopian Enterprise Petroleum Ethiopian mobilization Ethiopian Orthodox Church Ethiopian Somali Democratic League ESDL Ethiopian Telecommunications Authority Ethiopian Telecommunications Corpora ethnic cleansing Ethnic Federalism ethnic groups Amhara Banar Gamo Gedeo Gofa Guji Hamer Karo Konso Mursi Nara Oromo Sidama Expo Ezana famine Fatzi Federalism Ethnic female soldiers ferenji foreigner Fessehai Habteab feuds Yemeni style Follina forced displacement France fraud mismanagement Freedom Junior Secondary School Freemen Montana French East Africa Djibouti Fugnido Camp Central Committee Funge Gadamaytu Galab Hassan Galkayo Gambela District Gambela Gamo Gofa Province Garowe Gash Barka Region Gawane Gebremariam Berhane genital mutilation geography Geza Gerlassie Ghebray Tekeste Ghebretnsae Woldemichael Ginir Goba Gode Gojjam Gojjam Province gomen spinach Gonder Province GouledAptidon Hassan Grassroots International Greater Hanish Greater Tigray green rainy season Gudoon Abdi Araleh Guelleh Ismael Omar Guinea Bissau Gullele Gurage Gurage Region guurti elders conferences Guurti House Elders H Habr Ja Habr Yonis Habtekere Gebreneguse Hamdalla Nursabo Entries refer toICWALetters MM andpage withLetternumbergiven beforeeachpageentry Institute Current World Affairs Hamud Fille Hanish Islands Harar Haraz Harmaz Hargeisa hartebeest Hartisheikh Hashi Abdillahi Khalif Hassan Bashir Omar Hawiye health facilities Health professionals Heret village highland peoples HiwotTrustcondoms Holbrooke Richard Hubi Hamadu Ali Human Development Index human rights human attacks Hussein Yamat hydroelectric power hyenas ICRC International Committee Red Cross idleness infrastructure injera bread fermented batter Inter Governmental Authority Development IGAD intermarriage International Committee Red Cross International Court Justice Italian colonization Italian Somalia Italy lyasu Lijj J Janmeda Japan Jijiga Jijiga Customs Office Jijiga Nurse Training school Jinka Jubaland K Kagame Paul kaiwot inpeppersauce Kallala bridge Karchally prison Kazanchis kebele local government Kebre Beyih Kebre Dehar Kenya KeyAfer Khartoum kickbacks Kidane Harnet King Caleb King Ezana Kismayu kitfo groundbeefwithspicedbutter KokaDam Kolmay village Kombolcha Konso Kosovo Koytobia L labor supply Lake Anthony lakes Abaya Bishoftu Chamo Lalita Humud Land Latvia Legesse Asmarom Libya lifestyles livestock livestock thefts livestock trade LosAnood lowland peoples Luwin Pipi Mabane machiato espresso Maduk Mach Mago National Park Mahdi Ali market mamitay little Marcus Harold Mariam Mengistu Haile marriage dowries marriages masinko traditional string violin Massawa media Megennanya Mehare Zait Meisso Mekelle M ekonnen Yigzaw Menelik Menelik II Mengist Saba Mengisteab Dawit Mereb River Meretab merkato Mig helicopters Mig interceptors Minister Civil Aviation Ministry Defense Ministry Foreign Affairs Ministry Information Mire Osman Haji missir lentils Mitchell Leslie Mituku Aboosh Mogadishu Mohamed Ige Mohammed Ali Mahdi Mombasa Morgan Mohamed Hersi Moyale Mubarak Hosni Mudug peace accord Mudug Region Mulki Museveni Yoweri N nakfa Nakfa National Committee Somali Region Trade Promotion NCSRTP national parks ndemin adderu morning ndemin nachu Nebiyou Hanna Miss Ethiopia Nechisar National Park nepotism NETCO NGOs governmental organiza tions Nige Nile River Nuers O OAU Organization African Unity OAU initiative OAU peace Odeweini OgaAli Afar Ogaden Region Ogaden War ogaden Welfare Society OWS ONLF Odaden National Liberation Front OPDO Oromo People Democratic Organization Operation Restore Hope Entries refertoICWALetters MM andpage withLetternumbergiven beforeeachpageentry Operation Sunset Oromiya National Regional State Oromiya Region Oromo Liberation Front OLF Orotta Osman Rifaat PACT Pan Somali project parliament pastoralism pastoralists peace plans People Legal Aid Center PLACE Petros Col Bezabieh PFDJ People Front Democracy Justice Piazza pickpockets police political violence population Djibouti Port Sudan school press press censorship press restrictions primary schools propaganda prostitution Prudence brand family planning pills Puntland Puntland Development Research Center Puntland State Somalia Purdy Chris Qaddafi Muammar Qatar radio advertising Ras Hailu Gojjam Ras Mikhael Seul Red Sea Red SeaAirline refugee camps Bonga Fugnido Itang Sherkole refugee jealousy refugee repatriation Regassa Taddesse Region Regional Health Bureau Regional Parliament Regional Planning Bureau registration fraud religion remittances Republic Somaliland Resolution spect elders Reuters Revolutionary School Rice Susan Rift Valley Fever Robinson Mary Romania Ruba Hadai Rubattino Shipping Company Russia Rwanda Saha Battle Sahnoun Mohammed Said Hussein Islamic charity Salaaliy sales incentives Sanaag Saneti Plateau Saudi Arabia Savannah Hotel Save Children Save Children UK Sawa national military training secondary school security Ethiopian govern sedentary refugees Selassie Haile SEPDF Southern Ethiopian Peoples Democratic Front Setit Sewa Province Shabiya Shahid Abdirahman Mohammed Shakur Abdi Shambuco Shashemene Sheba Sherkole Central Committee Shewa Shinn David traditional Somali congress shiro crushed chickpea sauce Shuke Abdirahman Abdulle Sidamo Province Sidist Kilo Sierra Leone Sifreye Genet Silte village Simien smuggling Solomon Solomonic descent Solomonic Dynasty Soltelco Somali Somali budget Somali clans Abgal Darod Dulbahante Gadabursi HabrAwal Habr Ja HabrYonis Habr Gedir Harti Hawiye Isaaq Majerteen Warsengeli Somali language Somali National Movement SNM Somali national reconciliation confer Somali oratory Somali People Democratic Party SPDP Somali Region Somali Salvation Democratic Front SSDF Somali Salvation Front SSF Somal women Somalia Somalia Ethiopia border Somaliland Somaliland Republic constitution elections government history independence NGO private sector Protectorate secession Somtel Sool Southern Nations Nationalities Peoples Region sovereignty Soyama SPLA Southern Peoples Liberation Army STC stealing Sudan Sudanese refugees Sukhoi SU fighter planes SultanAbsalam Sultan Mohamoud Institute Current World Affairs T tabot traditional barley collection Teacher Training Institute TTI honeywine telecommunications yistillinf health terror Tesfaye Mikael Worku Tesfazion Afeworki third world development sauteed Tigray National Regional State Tigray Province Tigrayan nationalism Tigrinya Tilahun Ato Tilahun Mekbib Timket epiphany Timket Ethiopian Orthodox Church celebration Tiravolo Togdheer Region Togochale TPLF Tigray People Liberation Front tradition training transportation trenches truck robberies Tsabra Tsegaye Ato Tsorona Tuur Abdirahman TV advertising Twenty First Century Trading Company U S Embassy travel warning U S Marines U S Rwanda facilitation process U S Rwanda initiative U S Rwanda Peace Plan U S U N interventions Uduk Uduks Uganda Ukraine UN Cartographic Office UN Cartographic Unit UN Commissioner Human Rights See Robinson Mary Undufo UNHCR United Nations High Commis sioner Refugees UNICEF United Nations United Nations Development Program UNDP United Nations General Assembly UnitedNationsOCHA Office forthe Coordination Humanitarian Assistance United Nations Security Council United Nations Task Force UNITAF United Somali Congress USC United States Upper Nile Region USAID UnitedStatesAgencyfor International Development USAIDOFDA Office ofForeign DisasterAssistance Value added recycling Village Voice violence vocational school training VoiceofAmerica VOA warlords warrior tradition Warsama Abdi Ibrahim Warsame Ali Warsame Ismael water Waugh Evelyn weapons Welo Province Western Somali Liberation Front WSLF WFP World Food Program wheat White Horse Whiskey winter season jillaal women women peace envoys Worku Ato Melaku Woyane Y Ya abelo yehabesha Ethiopian bread Yemen Yilma Teshome Yirga triangle Yohannes IV youth Yusuf Abdillahi Z Zagwe dynasty Zaire Congo Zake Habil Zalanbessa Zayid Dafallah Eissa zebra Zenawi Meles Zimbabwe Institute CurrentWorld Affairs FELLOWSANDTHEIRACTIVITIES EUROPE RUSSIA Adam Smith Albion Uzbekistan Aformer research associate Institute EastWest Studies Prague Czech Republic Adam studying writing about republicsofCentralAsia andtheirimportanceasactorswithinandwithouttheformerSovietbloc AHarvardgraduate History Adamhas completed first M Litt Degree Russian East European history languages Oxford University Gregory Feifer Russia With fluent Russian Master Harvard Gregory worked Moscow political editor Agence France Presse weekly RussiaJournalin GregseesRussia slatestfailuresateconomicand politicalreformasacontinuationoffailedattemptsatWesternization began Peter Great failures succession behind scenes elites Russia behind mythic facade strong rulers centuries He plans assess continuation these cultural underpinnings Russian governance Gorbachev Yeltsin succession Whitney Mason Turkey Afreelance print television journalist Whit began career founding newspaper called The Siberian Reviewin Novosibirsk worked Vladivostok News wrote Asiaweek magazine Hong Kong In switched radio video journalism working Bosnia Korea CBS As ICWAFellow studying writing about Turkey nexus between East West between traditional secular Islam Jean Beno Nadeau France AFrench Canadianjournalistandplaywright JeanBenotstudieddramaattheNationalTheaterSchool inMontreal thenreceivedaB A McGill University Political Science History The holder several Canadian magazine investigative journalism awards spending ICWA fellowship years France studying resistance French trend economic cultural globalization SOUTHASIA Shelly Renae Browning Australia Asurgeon specializing hearing Dr Browning studying approaches traditional healers among Aborigines Australia indigenous peoples Vanuatu hearing problems She B S Chemistry University South studied physician patientrelationships inChinaandAustraliaonaThomasJ Watson FellowshipandwonherM D atEmoryUniversity inAtlanta Before herICWAfellowship shewasaFellow inSkull BaseSurgery Montreal McGill University sDepartment ofOtolaryngology SAHARA Marc Michaelson Ethiopia AprogrammanagerforSavetheChildren inTheGambia MarchasmovedacrossAfricatotheHorn theretoassessnation building Eritrea Ethiopia conditions permitting availing unavailing humanitarian efforts northern Somalia southern Sudan With B A political science Tufts degree study London School Economics Master International Peace Studies Notre Dame describes postgraduate years seven years experience international development programming peace research THEAMERICAS Wendy Call Mexico A Healthy Societies Fellow Wendy spending years Mexico Isthmus Tehuantepec immersed contradictory trends attempt industrialize develop along proposed Caribbean Pacific containerized railway desire indigenous peoples preserve their Mexico remaining growth forests With B A Biology Oberlin Wendy worked communications coordinator Grassroots International national campaign director Infact corporate accountability organi zation Paige Evans Cuba A playwright former Literary Manager Manhattan Theatre Club New York City Paige looking Cuba through performing With History Literature B A Harvard served counselor Buckhorn Children Center Buckhorn Ken tucky asArts Editor International Courier Rome Italy adjunct professor teaching course Contempo raryAmerican Playwrights atNewYork University ShejoinedtheManhattanTheatreClub Peter KellermChile Public affairs officer Redwood National Park planner Yosemite National Park before fellowship Peter holds B S RecreationResourceManagementfromthe UniversityofMontanaandaMasters inEnvironmentalLawfromtheVermontLawSchool AsaJohn Miller Musser Memorial Forest Society Fellow spending years Chile Argentina comparing operations parks forest reserves controlled Chilean Argentine governments those controlled private persons governmental organizations Susan Sterner Brazil Astaff photographer Associated Press Los Angeles Susan received B A International Studies Cultural Anthropology EmoryUniversityandaMaster sinLatinAmericanStudiesatVanderbilt APgaveherawide rangingbeat withassignmentsin Haiti Mexicoand alongtheU S Mexican border Herfellowship topic livesandstatus Brazilianwomen Tyrone TurnermBrazil Aphotojournalist BlackStar whoseworkhasappeared inmanyU S newspapersandmagazines TyroneholdsaMaster sdegree inGov Latin American politics Georgetown University produced photo essays youth violence New Orleans genocide Rwanda mining Indonesia As Institute Fellow photographing writing about Brazilian youth fromSo Paulo industrial South Recife Salvador Northeast Institute Current World Affairs Institute CurrentWorldAffairs THE CRANE ROGERS FOUNDATION FourWestWheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755USA