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5/1/2006 - Face-Off: Peacock Nationalism on the Pakistan-India Border by Nicholas Schmidle

Face Off Peacock Nationalism Pakistan India Border By Nicholas Schmidle May IT S THE START OF mango season already connoisseurs about species appears every other during third July If lucky enough which means knowing someone connected enough mango snobs really mango But I there other eties mango grown Pakistan Sweet Big Small Orange Green Just people going This usually I mention I India years somewhat familiar Subcontinental mango craze No comes typically dismissive response Our mangoes better India Of course neither India Pakistan officially challenged other country mango growing contest This competitiveness rstood product cricket nuclear weaponry decades rivalry between neighboring countries But regardless whether talking about mango season cricket match nuclear certain throw Pakistanis nationalist frenzy This nationalism itself event perhaps unlikely visitor sampling prized biannual mango species Pakistanis place identity themselves first foremost Pakistanis their passport Otherwise Baluchis Shias Waziris Sindhis before prepared profess their loyalty Pakistan But there always thing whole country rally against India Culturally India Pakistan common The people after lived together hundreds thousands years Hindi Urdu countries respective languages almost exactly alike difference script Urdu script similar Arabic Persian Dari Pashto Hindi Davanagari script common Nepali several North Indian tongues The cuisines similar regardless whether Lucknow Lahore order plate lentil based lassi yogurt drink The differences start considering religion history Pakistan created August homeland Indian Muslims It drawn English lawyer named Cyrus Radcliffe Radcliffe qualification according British Governor General India never spent India anyone there So unbiased arrived Delhi July On August submitted report The Pakistan India divided declared independent Hindus India Muslims Pakistan Hundreds thousands people slaughtered migrated their homelands The Line Partition other arbitrary borders olonial times contentious since Since I missed hyped Indo Pak cricket matches Photo Rikki Schmidle Swimming canal Pakistan earlier spring I decided Indian border probably place exhibition genuine Pakistani nationalism For stoking national sentiments wrong cross border stares Besides memorial Islamabad modeled craggy mountain Balu chistan where Pakistan tested first nuclear weapon May Wagah Border crossing might celebrated Pakistan comes generatingpatriotism Every afternoon border closing ceremony Pakistani Indian border guards lower their respective flags goose other One second television advertisement upcoming hockey match between India Pakistan features seconds Pakistani border guards drilling Wagah seconds actual field field hockey highlights When I mention Wagah Pakistani friends attempts It totally awesome You yourself ON A FRIDAY AFTERNOON middle April I hired fellow named Nadeem drive Lahore Wagah Border The Over course previous night Lahore summer suddenly temperatures exceeded degrees Fahrenheit before lunchtime In center cloud motorized automobile exhaust hovered germaphobe truck toilet While traffic sweating vinyl seats Nadeem pointed brand Hyundai pumping A C windows rolled planned himself Most Wagah Border parallels canal there banks strewn clothes taking Most adolescence there playful splashing Some flips overpass The youngest around naked trying without towel Farther farmers allowed their water buffaloes enjoy Nadeem giggled passed naked water buffaloes I pledged avoid water costs Just miles before border Batapur small color burlap It before India The buildings faded disrepair streets crumbled piles brick resembled giant coarse anthills The times consistency powder vehicle passed through behind puffy Women colorful scarves around their faces Except welcome these scarves thing disrupting Batapur monochromatic landsca The welcome billboard gateway It arched Shinto style street mostly At white lettering Batapur The distinct Alien corporate familiarity I counting painted Pepsi logos spelled P E S P I Coke logos Coke Every shopping center Pakistan least three Bata stores conglomerate thousands retail stores around world Some company history Czech named Tomas Bata visited Partition India enterprising shoemaker would noticed hordes people walking barefoot Almost immediately NES began orchestrating Bata pansion Subcontinent within months construction teams broke ground perfect piece equidistant between major urban centers Lahore Amritsar By manufactur plant finished Batapur which Hindi means place Bata Today Lahore Amritsar separated dozen miles Radcliffe Line Partition placed sister cities different countries ensuing territorial disputes turned boundary fiercely guarded borders world Shuttling shoeboxes almost unthinkable Since independence India Pakistan fought three blown several mishes In instance military strategists heaped significance Wagah Border because proximity critical urban centers On September during second Indo Pak War Indian Army Infantry Division marched Pakistan determined Lahore They passed Photo Rikki Schmidle Bicycling Batapur INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS diplomats intervened mediated ceasefire Not U S citizens enough scoot country slowed General Chaudry advance preven Indian Army taking Lahore Ceasefire ceasefire India Pakistan brand brinkmanship since totally unmatched Where sworn enemies living armed teeth nuclear weapons infused antagonizing religious sentiments comprising almost fifth world population What makes rivalry truly unique however every evening sundown performed paying customers rupees ON THE ROAD FROM Batapur border followed school close enough considered drafting patch Suddenly pillowcase thrown windows I couldn anything outside I presume neither could Nadeem He wheel hands otherwise laughter refusal suggested inclement challenges It about senses compensat another failure The windows rolled tight vents closed We engulfed khaki Yet mouth working overtime tasted uncooked couscous smelled burning rocks trash brewed And I still close Nadeem acted nonchalant perhaps concern seconds decapitation school bumper seemed reveling blind navigation I trusted husband father taking unnecessary chances His dodging motorized rickshaws donkeys fruit carts other stoplights police officers admittedly superb This something altogether different Nadeem where going I asked No problem Mr Nicholas responded smile revealed mouthful teeth dripping maroon juice local tobacco product chewing When cloud dissipated minutes later wrong pointed toward field Directly front brick homes piles water buffalo front Nadeem steered straight I woman reach shape handful feculence patty The patties dried cooking An entire covered stamped knuckle print presumably prevent family confusing their fecal discuses another Behind buffalo buffaloes themselves phallic shaped kilns making bricks The bricks stacked ramparts across southern horizon You could identity successful brick makers because their chimneys chalked labor giant candles covered sooty candle Clouds black smoke waited breeze burning smelled carcinogenic The before Wagah Border small Nadeem mention brother trained Camouflage barracks contraptions dangling ropes without stepladder likely obstacle course The whole complex surrounded unimposing barbed fence keeping stray water buffaloes A PARKING ATTENDANT GREETED pointed patch grass Even though hours later blocked sides attendant nothing event organized entertainment Like international boundaries Wagah Bor several layers defense Everyone waiting outside initial Some standing bunched under cloth tarps tended front snack stands signs stamped Mountain Dew logos The stands liter bottles assortments fried chips specta A smaller crowd clogged window cupied ticket booth While waiting booth I named Ahmad He medium height skinny rapidly receding hairline Ahmad resident Faisalabad roughly hours Wagah visit friends Unfortunately wanted So alone We spoke mixture English Urdu This important Pakistanis Ahmad pointing toward border India I asked No replied through sucked teeth emony There signals ticket booth about opening throng jumped usual pushing shoving Just watching distance makes anxious about losing place Ahmad insisted buying ticket about front The ticket rupees around cents Minutes later couple school buses honked their through throng drove first closed Then Indian painted passed writing Delhi Lahore Delhi A Bridge Between Two Nations The Delhi Lahore route resumed after NES Ahmad glasses holding place trying avoid being burned cigarette suspension following terrorist attack Indian parliament December Islamic militants jihadi groups Pakistan Islamabad New Delhi route newly christened Kashmir wider dialogue peace between countries The escorted pickup truck brimming gunmen When finally opened women separated different lines their tickets We merged walked security checks The snaked forth I seeing people again again You develop weird unspoken relationships people lines Then metal detectors Everyone frisked An usher uniform security front amphitheater pointing people their seats Men women other For eigners singled front I usher Ahmad friend sitting The usher nodded waved through There other Pakistanis front plenty Japanese tourists scattered throughout Most Japanese carried still camera video camera other Fanny packs Their wives floppy sandals heels Everyone filed phitheater brick least three stories The fresh brick reminded Camden Yards Baltimore Music Pakistan primary subcultures Baluchi Sindhi Mohajir Punjabi Pathan speakers people singing along Near amphitheater portrait Mohammad Ali Jinnah father Pakista underneath Urdu characters writing Freedom Gate The whole setup Sea World quality except instead attraction being acrobatic whale soldiers paced around topped cloth fronds A single split female sections Schoolchildren women other A young tried father anArmy Ranger machine short beard Just behind family couple picnic tables another snacking kebabs Cokes brought outside Likewise someone sitting beside bleachers poured Ahmad When Indians started coming bleach their mostly smiles They bright colors women sitting beside their bands brothers boyfriends ASikh turban pointed Camcorder Pakistan waved other One woman pushed stroller while blowing kisses I We Love You Pakistan Ahmad other Photo Rikki Schmidle I raise higher schoolchildren majority women waved He informed family after still India Some these people could cousins In response goodwill though Pakistani sitting amphitheater getting nervous How could their sworn enemies There response times these That someone cried Allahu Akbar God great satisfaction ONCE THE FIRST PERSON screamed Allahu Akbar whole changed The lyrics Our Flag More Beautiful Your Flag The schoolchildren minutes laughing another their innocent uniforms leading chants Pakistan Zindabad LongLive Pakistan Allahu Akbar favorites Slo makers learn their trade young The actual ceremony lasted about It sisted elite Rangers marching elevated platform amphitheater border Each Rangers exceptionally wearing stood peacock their heads They march briskly straight steps while waving their appropriately straight The crowd cheered applauded presumably march faster Just before reaching turned began goose stepping stomping their ground The Pakistanis mascot He white beard single Jurassic tooth looked Pink Eraser He entirely green outfit looked The shirt Urdu Pakistan Zindabad He waved He slogan stood akimbo fists clenched Whenever other specta cheered louder chanted cried Allahu Akbar The event involved India Pakistan lowering their respective flags This every other aspect afternoon complete coordination other country They would pressed reographer could improve these steps At soldiers exchanged stack local newspapers another handshake Congratulations another without After around marched toward amphitheater gates locked border closed Ahmad looked satisfied almost point haustion No doubted those rupees rupees spent Perhaps welcome Batapur Mountain Dew bossed snack stands weren commercial around after NES INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Current Fellows their Activities Richard D Connerney January INDIA A lecturer Philosophy Asian Religions Philosophy Rutgers Iona College University Hawaii Manoa Rick Connerney spending years Phillips Talbot Fellow studying writing about intertwining religion culture politics India described former U S Ambassador John Kenneth Galbraith functioning anarchy Rick B A M A religion Wheaton College University Hawaii respectively Kay Dilday October FRANCE MOROCCO An editor New York Times Op Ed years Kay holds M A Comparative International Politics Theory Graduate Center City University New York Bachelor degree English Literature Tufts University graduate Universiteit Amsterdam Netherlands Cours Civilisation Sorbonne She traveled written Haiti began jouralistic council reporter Somerville This Week Somerville MA Cristina Merrill June ROMANIA Born Bucharest Cristina moved Romania United States mother father Learning English retaining Romanian majored American History Harvard College there became captain women tennis She received Master degree Journalism New York University worked several U S publications Adweek New York Times spending years Romania watching emerge darkness Ceauscescu regime presumed light membership European Union NATO Nicholas Schmidle October PAKISTAN Nicholas freelance writer interested intersection culture religion politics Asia He spending Pakistan writing issues ethnic sectarian national identity Previously reported Central Asia Iran published Washington Post Weekly Standard Foreign Policy Christian Science Monitor others Nick received M A International Affairs Regional Studies American University December He lives Rikki Andrew J Tabler February SYRIA LEBANON Andrew lived studied worked Middle East since Rotary Foundation Ambassadorial Fellowship enabled begin Arabic language studies toward Master degree American University Cairo Following Master editorships Middle East Times Cairo Times before moving Turkey Lebanon Syria working Senior Editor Oxford Business Group correspondent Economist Intelligence Unit His ICWA fellowship bases Beirut Damascus where report Lebanese affairs Syrian reform Jill Winder July GERMANY With B A politics Whitman College Walla Walla WA Master degree Art Curating Bard College Annandale Hudson NY Jill ICWA Donors Fellow looking Germany through ideas viewpoints contemporary artists Before months intensive study German language Berlin Thomas J Watson Fellow looking communist practice cultural politics transition former Soviet Czech Republic Slovakia Poland Croatia Hungary Latvia Romania Slovenia Ukraine Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum twoyears carrying designedprograms study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiencesfrom field month They write subject formally informally asthey The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues Author Schmidle NicholasTitle ICWA Letters South Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NHMaterial Type Serial Language EnglishFrequency MonthlyOther Regions East Asia The Americas Mideast North Africa Sub Saharan Africa Europe Russia ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Phone Fax E Mail valley Web address Executive Director Steven Butler Program Assistant Brent Jacobson Administrative Publications Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current WorldAffairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The Information contained publication reprinted republished without express consent Institute Current World Affairs