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11/21/1984 - Istanbul Diary by Paul A. Rahe

NOT FOR PUBLICATION WITHOUT WRITER S CONSENT INSTITUTE OF CURRENTWORLD AAIRS PAR I American Research Institute Turkey itlembik Sokak Istanbul Diary Serencebey Beikta Istanbul TURKEY November Mr Peter Bird Martin Institute Current World Affairs Wheelock House West Wheel Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 USA Dear Peter Had known nothing recent events Turkey would still senled outset As departed IFK Swissair evening October The following morning shifted New York Istanbul flight faced precautionary procedure never encountered before lined fellow passengers Zurich airport lounge thereafter whisked plane There found baggage spread tarmac No piece luggage which identified passenger would loaded plane A terrorist intent blowing Swissair Flight October would willing process later procedure followed every flight Turkey abroad The sense reinforced Yeilky airport Customs relatively simple quickly loaded couple taxis journey Our destination Beyolu There Istikll Caddesi istanbul headquarters Dutch East India Company Palail Hollande splendid century structure constructed serve Dutch embassy Sublime Porte Istanbul longer capital great empire history passed Accordingly Palais Hollande houses Dutch consulate Dutch Archaeological Institute where months before booked Along airport major intersections there military policemen armed rifles submachine lounging others standing statues moving breathe My arrival Palais Hollande caused considerable consternation written ahead specifying would probably there before early evening director archaeological institute consul Paul A Rahe fellow Institute Current World Affairs studying contemporary culture social development politics Eastern Mediteranean earlier history region general terms latter leave Holland In short expected occasioned trouble In Ankara before someone linked shadowy terrorist groups which inhabit region threatened American embassy Military guards submachine subse quently placed gates every consulate Istanbul The Dutch likely target willing unnecessary chances Fortunately foreseen arrival might occasion difficulties letter proper authoriti confirming would ready And wander afield evening By liugged flights stairs exhaustion Eventuallyi stumbled across Istikll wolfed placed front returned haven collapse Betweeh packing travelling slept quite But though tired sufficiently attuned happening around sense something strange possibly amiss regarding crowds walking Istikll Caddesi The Bosphorus American Research Institute Turkey where collected secured addresse acquaintances Istanbul weeks before Early evening located correct street purchased first couples hopelessly rabbit warren streets neighborhood Cihangir Our rendezvous delayed until morning darkness given eerie feeling night before The cobblestone streets Cihangir packed there woman lived New York border between Harlem Spanish Harlem learned crowded cities night groups young unaccompanied women spell danger unwary The weeks followed first Istanbul considerably reduced softened forebodings which initial wanderings given eliminate those fears altogether which should The Jews White Russians Chaldaeans Greeks Armenians Iranians Turks among reside Cihangir other districts Istanbul dwellers urban villagers To citizens Istanbul manner Athenians Hellenes But nonetheless rarely trick They Americans strangers wherever They almost never homes outside neighborhoods which As consequence familiar those about their knowledge their neighbors great deterrent against crime All handful streets night quickly recognized nearly every person encounter Only outsiders mischief those easily recognized potential sources trouble watched suspicious PAR I The phenomenon known detailed discussion Where social geographical mobility limited social controls distinc village survive prevent emergence anonymity which makes violence crime But course regime amiliarity cannot eliminate crime violence altogether Oust weeks friend Cihangir A scuffle broke front someone stumbled tried wallet It might New York Naples Rome The third night violent potential these throngs similarly brought The event happened shortly after I0 It Saturday evening rushing dinner party intent reaching Palais Hollande before witching crazed 8reek gateman abandons watch takes As approached street which Istikll Caddesi small crowd fifty sixty burst scene The angry That clear their shouts And heading coffee house kiraathanesi built embankment overlooking bottom street At least carrying chairs started reverse course after reminding myself route turned again plunged through crowd As glanced happening young chair hands embankment through plate glass windows kir_aat_hami above watch companion throw second chair rapid steps steep incline towards temporary heard strike shatter other window house Had event taken place weeks later would stopped learn cause quarrel Did politics enter dispute Did owner kiraathanesi caught cheating cards Or coffee served simply still wonder never At ignorance pleaded caution avoided The local neighborhood which witnessed first Saturday evening disturbing reminder years dozens Turks being streets every single night As write these words military police combing searching gunmen building building apartment apartment Even there terrorists bands robbers abroad hardly passes without there being somewhere Turkey robbed At least national television carries story another arrested displays photographs their More often weapons their owners found Istanbul Sincerely Paul A Rahe