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12/18/1984 - Antiquities by Paul A. Rahe

NOT FOR PUBLICATION WITHOUT WRITER S CONSENT INSTITUTE OF CURRENTWORLD AFFAIRS PAR American Research Institute Turkey Citlembik Sokak Serencebe Bei Istanbul TURKEY December Mr Peter Bird Martin Institute Current World Affairs Wheelock House West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 USA Dear Peter Eleven years brief foray Turkey ancient sites along Aegean coast distinct impression first entered Wherever looked streets Izmir there Chevrolets Fords Pontiacs Oldsmobiles P1ymouths mention older In August Anatolia graveyard aging American automobiles presume European Turkey remember asking someone about problem spare parts When these impossible replied Turks simply fashioned In added automobiles eryear sturdier difficult repair technological marvels which assembly lines today In decade regret report jalopies replaced American makes The streets filled Fiats Renaults Volkswagens Datsuns Toyotas recent manufacture Turks produce small called Anadolou least partially their To sightseer strolling along cobblestone streets Istanbul still encounter relic great Detroit resting sidewalk against building lumbering along tired antediluvian giant But these memorable beasts dinosaur Horses pulling carts bulging produce flowers hardly common Of American remain quite number taxis Among these survivors originally built serve limousines generally outlast their fellows These travel established routes fashion multitude minibuses which scurry about For ancient limousines still Turks aptly meaning employ dolmu which derivative stuff After travelling goodly distance vehicle comes Paul A Rahe fellow Institute Current World Affairs studying Contemporary culture social development politics Eastern Mediteranean earlier history region PAR understand evocative coined first place stuck The dolmus rarely departs before there passenger snugly ensconced every confess watching along sometimes twinge sadness These reminders bygone yearm themselvesL In meantime however there bonanza waiting Turkey American interested purchasing antique abroad market homer When spoke driver about possibility offered ancient DeSoto eight hundred thousand which under thousand dollars The American courser ancient buildings finds parked against Some Turkish baths example built right after Mehmet Conquer Constantinople Byzantine Greeks continuous since Embedded walls hamam sadly fallen disuse disrepair fragments marble sculpture triumphal erected early Byzantine times commemorate conquests victories Emperor Theodosius These remnants Theodosian useful reminders great history before Turks They cause alert passer recall there public baths elsewhere Mediteranean region early times In Turkish peculiarly Turkish In architecture practices associated social function hamam differs ancient Roman If archaeologist sounding older baths might discover operation centuries before Turks considered threat Before became common plumbing houses apartments there baths Istanbul there today The aqueducts brought water Belgrade Forest Bosphorus water piped Taksim Square Beyoglu every hamam within In Ottoman times Islamic stricture cleanliness godliness taken great seriousness Stambouli Turks women alike quite often stopped neighborhood The Turks concerned cleanliness today shower bathe their neighbors West So haman institution longer central Turkish But In Istanbul alone seventy eighty baths survive brisk business The expensive which quite often oldest baths thrive tourist trade But there splendid places which depend almost entirely local support visited hamam invitation Turkish friend brought another American along After experience understood PAR appeal The place located Stamboul outside Covered Bazaar Upon entering particular hamam client invited exchange shoes plastic slippers towel enter cbicle equipped There removes clothes drapes towel about waist He exchanges plastic slippers wooden clogs before entering steam rooms Each steam circular affair equipped marble basins which filled water center gObe__k_ navel circular stone platform heated below After stretched client loses sense The atmosphere languid muscles gradually relax Then wishes visitor massage forget At least cheaper places masseurs professionals Generally burly extremely strong Anatolian peasants three months supplement income working During their sojourn Istanbul actually dormitories upstairs They theirmeals there common rarely Often morning until night If client requests these sturdy fellows thoroughgoing At session complete But there When massage finished bathman conducts charge marble basins splashes water rubber glove called With instrument client nearly rolling which emerged pores removing whatever there In meantime renews massage jerking visitor eliminating whatever tension remain Finally lathers slops water until leaves inert flesh intent little regaining consciousness composure At point client betakes himself corridor cubic where locked clothes On exchanges towel completely soaked three towels second shoulders third waist Ensconced cubicle sahleE slightly sweet beverage roots certain mysterious plants consumed great quantities Turks winter months relax before slipping clothes returning completely refreshed hustle bustle outside The regimen women rigorous least Turkish baths attendants bring oranges other citrus fruits women reclining The mixture sweet smell fruit steam wafting below informant claims added inducement hamam The attendants women section sometimes bawdy songs belly dancel their clients themselve In urbane environments young about marry female relatives friends celebratory h_amam As institution hamam clearly decline doubt whether relic ancient Rome follow Chevrolets Fords Pontiacs Oldsmobiles Plymouths Turkey oblivion Even uncommon middle class Turk baths every At least regard American contribution modern civilization Anatolia immediate neighborhood ephemeral inheritance ancient world Sincerely Paul A Rahe Received Hanover