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5/1/2000 - Initial Impressions of Chile by Peter Keller

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Carole Beaulieu Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler William F Foote Pramila Jayapal Peter Bird Martin Ann Mische Dorothy S Patterson Paul A Rahe Carol Rose Chandler Rosenberger John Spencer Edmund Sutton Dirk J Vandewalle Sally Wriggins HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A PK THE AMERICAS Peter Keller Forest Society Fellow Institute studying writing about national private parks Chile Argentina Initial Impressions Chile By Peter Keller May PUERTO VARAS Chile I living world three months fully understanding others being fully understood Such process cultural immersion This subject majority ICWA members I experienced feelings How first And during process I think about observe surroundings Therefore newsletter dedicated collection thoughts initial impressions Chile including language people where I general culture Language Yo become favorite expressions Spanish It literally means I neither J translated I thing I often Jota Spanish pronunciation letter Some think deprecating great breaker opens further conversation others Spanish practice Prior fellowship I Spanish except course Guatemala March night classes Washing DC nearly years Thus order deficit I spent three months studying Spanish countries Peru Chile prior official start fellowship This newsletter focus spent Chile Learning language different I imagined I thought would matter learning words Spanish directly translating words English phrase But simple For computer where right access level I figuring learning language teaching about English This English equivalent present perfect indicative tense teacher would pointing example textbook I would respond tense I finding I never learned English first So seems I learning languages years This personal challenge perhaps greater achieve ments Chileans anxious foreigners gringos think their language manner which speak In Chile gringo considered impolite There seems definitions The first anybody North America second explained Marta language school administrator anyone blond She insisted I gringo because I others would differ definition Chileans quick point speak poorly speakers As comparison Chileans Pe ruvians speak Spanish cleanly fully enunciate words I agree There common practice dropping letter certain words breez letter these letters appear toward For example phrase meaning sound A Chilean comment about slang their everyday communications There slang Chilenismos could written about subject And matter edition The How Survive Chilean Jungle popular among arrivals myself I second dictionary primary I I looking authentic tionary Here short Chilenismos conversations Buena sweet Positive vibrations Cach understand Chao Cuico upper class Guagua Guat overweight Que bummer Qu Oye Mira These words start interrupt conversation Carrete party A humorous Chilenismo Andar gringo which means underwear The interesting phrase insinuation gringos derwear But I think really indication factor pants country compared North America The language school I attended Puc resort munity people Chile region better described hostel first restaurant second school The country divided regions including Santiago Region numbered north south The table chairs served classroom months This where I spent three hours professors Paty Karin Usually I Spanish conversation classes Karin grammar classes P Books expensive Chile For example I cently local bookstore Chilean Con stitution It I decided rather sections I wanted Internet It story books result textbook classes We worked photocopies textbooks Karin Paty attended University Moreover books printed Spain German guage students learning Spanish Although I three years German school years since little comprehension guage It frustrating process times because I couldn understand German introductory sentences explaining lesson words different Spanish Spanish Chilean Spanish After I would finish reading paragraph textbook Karin would usually through which words different Chile Ma someday I Spain llanta instead rueda wheel I figure I limited space brain duplicative words complicate ation There seems fascina Chile Re gions anything German Germany The settled Germans influences central Europe remained Professor Karin school Germany lived there afterwards years Paty always seemed enjoy telling German equivalent newest Span I learned And where I lived Puc house would intro others person United States rather person whose German Did German language words I Chilean newspaper recently article about influence English other languages El Mercurio A2 April It compared number words other major anguages English nearly million words Spanish almost words When I introduce piece trivia conversation usually received conversation quickly changes direction Chileans proud diversity Spanish speak What realize include permutations created Chileans everyday words By I diminutives known chiquititos pancito tecito cafecito abuelita These refer little small bread water coffee grandmother respectively Perhaps diminutives multitude conjugations added count language would several hundred thousand words One efficiency I noticed language method addressing children family For stance parents their address daughter Carlos Amapola Carolina whatever their first names In U S family I siblings I nique would parents embarrassment probably addressing wrong which happens quite often Chileans general speak little intona differentiate between words I cannot reason speak I because hurry The people I always conversations anywhere encounter their friends The style relaxed there always tomorrow finish project business transac This applies driving styles crosswalk This works small towns I lived I wouldn advise Santiago because I speak faster capital maybe truly hurry When I advice learning language common answer patience And I minding myself because times I become frustrated I conversation whatever detailed question I discovering learning language process always continues My Companions Don Arturo waiting I strolled school third class He smelled garlic looked driving distinction He anxious which where I would staying months I luggage drove kilometers family Fundo Los Chilcos Fundo describe piece property In south central Chile range acres As reference Parcela smaller Estancia larger Wild fuchsia Fuchsia magellanica Spanish Los Chilcos chosen plant represent their Fundo At house showed bedroom introduced Olivia business Temuco about hours In I could voices television volume turned maximum level blasting morning Across someone shouting LISTO again frequent intervals The cupant appeared before nodded moved toward bathroom He looked beyond guessing abilities stock heavy jacket I beginning think I should stayed hostel these thoughts would until later because I Span class minutes needed catch After class I returned Fundo lunch I employees Se Maria Jose Anto while prepared attended other chores collecting chicken feeding dozen picking vegetables greenhouse When lunch ready I morning Don Francisco appeared kitchen appointed dinner table It lunch Don Francisco Olivia father proceeded story after proudly He years amazing memory about details He hacienda Concepci spending riding horses around ranch El mejor ejercicio existe repeatedly described favorite activity adolescent years He worked Chilean Telephone Company years parts Chile He developed almost mantra philosophy during these years Telephone Company The words still ringing Saber Hacer Bien Algo Rap If knowledge anything asked rapidly succeed according Don Francisco After I about That night again I heard voice across blare LISTO repeatedly It seemed within person across hallway Finally stopped I heard I heard dragging extremely slowly sharp whacks against This lasted minutes returned The I finally encountered source voice It Abuelita Chris mother Don Arturo Se Maria I should because grandmother little crazy As months I began believe Almost every night grandma Christina would LISTO which meant ready bathroom Then would meter distance pounded floor I enjoyed I I needed people other teachers folks Usually afternoon I would after lunch seeking partners conversation After while I developed routine going tourism agency coffee shops where I Don Francisco patriarch family gaged daily discussion about weather I learned classes Everyone I pleas antly eager learn native tongue After months routine I ready Puerto Varas Here Puerto Varas I moved group house situation where I seven other people place overlooking Lake Llanquihue Osorno Vol The owner house Arnt Norwegian years vacation decided Everyone house Chile including sisters Andrea Bianca Anita professional local restaurant Carlos works adventure travel store The others include Geraldo works salmon industry Sergio north Chile spends making furniture Sergio speaks quickly I sometimes wonder making words confuse I Roman sometimes Gitano because reminds character Chilean television program called Roman Amor Gitano It based style Gypsies northern parts country They their language noticeable higher pitch their speech What gypsy usually unshaven Sergio Like other created nickname vulgar placed within these pages Puerto Varas population larger Puc population lives surrounding tryside still small atmosphere Puc Everybody knows other others doing One I plans language study partner later friend Andrea Bianca Gabi stopped video person Gabi about request meeting knowledge reported local newspaper She confirm I these plans which somewhat unusual because there casual attitude about setting appointments plans evolve change quickly without worry The Food Andrea older sisters three minutes returned evening recently announced house would hosting party night There prior planning because Chileans adapt moment opportun ities The reason party Jazz Pop group Joe Vasconcello Santiago river rafting housemates Now wanted party their honor The preparation began versions Chilean salads I encountered sliced tomatoes onions chopped lettuce topped fresh lemon juice The barbecue known Asado hunks would cooked throughout night During Asados I especially hanging around grill because I smell smoke because Chileans become excited thought Asado alone thing The procedure Asado simple Prepare An Asado Fundo Los Chilcos until burns enough become glowing embers Take large hunks Carne Vaca skewer place embers Horizontal supports skewers opposite rectangular shaped The chunks small pebbles While cooking usually gather around about Asados their favorite whether tongue stomach lining The excitement builds darkens initial satisfy their The leader ceremony generally serve morsels directly barbecue hands those gathered around This continues while until nearly barbecued consumed remains brought house The Asado night started around eaten around In between nibbling steaks Jazz group played range their favorites Chuck Mangione John Coltrane At Puc adopted family repared several Asados These weekends celebrate birthday sometimes reason I enjoyed these occasions because usually meant their friends nearby towns Villarrica Temuco would coming visit When friends family visit brought drinks celebrate occasion interesting connected Chilean culture One Easter important holiday Don Arturo family Se Maria prepared range cialties seafood empanadas Curanto Postre Casta A empanada consisted filling salmon abalone onions pepper cumin cooked together placed rolled dough folded pinched together prior final stage frying Curanto hearty various types seafood chicken vegetables During Easter Sunday juice almost thick gravy Thanksgiving dinner served glasses drinking The thought drinking gravy itself excite family delicacy seemed waiting I eventually tried drink acquired habit The Postre Casta Chest desert appetizing because looks eyeballs taste highlight These collected chestnut trees They prepared shell boiling mixture Cognac sugar Served heavy cream desert sinful completing extremely cious During weekdays usual routine meals Lunch salmon redwine light breakfast large lunch optional dinner Each breakfast consisted banana bread topped favorite spread Manjar thick choco flavored topping Lunch place around thirty included several courses My Don Arturo I slack nudging shoulder whenever noticed We started salad The ranged chicken broth thicker Cazuela which potatoes carrots pumpkin chicken The course varied savory salmon fillet cooked white sauce pasta sauce mashed potatoes several fried The dessert coffee course included variety cakes puddings fruits All delicious Afterwards would return rooms enjoy ternoon siesta Later afternoon would start stirring around house continuing schedules studying Spanish At sharp Se Maria would enter house detached kitchen announce Onces The origin Once meaning eleven Spanish several different versions prominent comes people drink aguardiente letters strong brewed alcohol Rather saying aguardiente would vamos tomar perhaps family would derstand their intention Most ingredients Fundo Los Chilcos trade other products A ingredients originating included chicken lettuce carrots spinach apples chestnuts moscata berries marmalade cilantro peppers garlic sional sheep Some included animals passing through One Jose Antonio I kitchen discussing chickens heard flock Loro birds large Oak house He grabbed rifle behind refrigerator swiftly quietly walked There least Loros quickly aimed missed He reloaded while bright green birds continued chirp apparently unconcerned danger With Jose Antonio ground We Loro still alive injured enough While Jose Antonio reloaded again other birds alarmed commotion beneath Jose Antonio wanted shoot though satisfied He picked burst excitement would dinner later night In Chile tastes people anywhere Popular Culture While I lived I nightly habit watching I determined there three major stories country The Pinochet sports unexplained phenomena The proceed General Augusto Pinochet obvious story I leave subject major outlets reporting The second subject sports there major sports country soccer tennis The World Cup soccer still years Korea Japan wouldn think The elimi nation rounds selecting teams within continent taking place intensity grows match played The prior soccer against Argentina coaches players during practice sessions Still I could pressure building actually started compassion players Chile super stars sports world Both first Marcelo Salas soccer player Rios tennis player Marcelo Rios number ranked tennis player world several months number Marcelo Salas plays professional soccer Eu Italian regularly comes Chile World Cup elimination round When either sports arrives airport abroad there reporters waiting their dozens questions answered Recently Santiago during Davis Cup tennis match between Argentina Chile umpire decision favor Argentine player whether landed inside outside court The already riding emotions victory earlier first match began shout umpire He warned crowd quiet became aggressive He filled capacity tennis stadium another warning threat Argentine would ceive point quiet They became louder He awarded point Argentina reacted throwing plastic court The court chairs trash raining stands The match canceled Afterwards Davis Cup official ruled Chilean Team banned Davis Cup matches played Chile Sports serious business I afraid cheer about future because soccer doing poorly having Argentina Uruguay tying Peru Davis Cup returning Chile years The third notable story UFO sightings reports unseen creatures called Chupacabras They always aired together there suspicion building there between Chupacabras creatures according sketches computer mations cross between large goyle They night blood goats leaving carcasses owner morning Many people believe Chupacabras UFOs The level attention given these subjects often surprises The nightly stories inter views witnesses specialists field phenom police investigating these incidents serious voice It would imagine Tom Brokaw giving pitch story without One trend I noticed during radio television programs nearly interviews accompanied background music This includes radio shows longer interviews popular personalities similar Tonight Show David Letterman As I cerned music distracting I trying centrate understanding words spoken interview Perhaps music usually something evator muzak soothing general audience interviewer Someday perform function One favorite evision programs called Patiperros This program travels around world search Chileans other countries These depth stories about abroad places Mali France Florida Las Vegas Although Chile large country longest world stretching kilometers north south population million I really sense small practice taking interest others It uncommon social gathering where people other their families It surprising leaders country other famous people casually passing during daily routine One during Spanish class I through restaurant former President Chile Patricio Alywin They lunch He first president after General Pinochet If I ognized pictures I I would known There service forces scanning building limousines waiting front Recently Chile conducted third presidential election since departure Pinochet It clean process Ricardo Lagos elected after second round percent He represents So cialist party Socialista opposition Joaquin Lavin represented Independent Party Union Democrata Independencia The election place weeks prior arrival Chile signs campaign still prevalent I noticed return three lakes district Huerquehue National Park painted LAGOS lakes I thought myself interesting marking route there three lakes painted In I slogan painted walls shelters roofs barns roads One I LAVIN painted roads finally I figured these campaign advertisements number related ballot number voting presidential didate Very ingenious cheap I think seeing GORE BUSH painted concrete asphalt Interstate The enforcement agency patrols highways investigates crimes maintains border crossings Argentina Bolivia Peru organization throughout Chile These Carabineros highly respected centralized branch federal govern conducts enforcement activities within country When I arrived Chile Urbano husband sister brother connections important Chile another story picked airport Santiago Urbano first piece advice I should bribe Carabineros W I planning right trustworthy dependable In system United States multi tiered framework enforcement agencies levels police county sheriffs state highway patrols federal agencies various jurisdictions I often wondered Chilean system applied United States would avoid confusion overlapping jurisdic tions But perhaps difference scale population million verses million corre sponding structure would prove bureaucratic The Huerquehue National Park toward Lago Tinquilco Volc Villarrica current system United States Although Chile centralized state primary still family Family always comes first before state before before friends In everyday conversa tions after greetings topic usually migrates question family On Saturday Sun afternoons I often families strolling along streets talking window shopping eating cream This surprise young children given great latitude I express through examples My weekend Puc I invited professor Paty husband Carlos their daughter Amapola house lunch During lunch Amapola years never joined kitchen table rather played She would crawl after nooks crannies kitchen including behind burning stove Seeing I became nervous because stove Amapola focused where going Neither parents anyone concerned about rampaging Amapola engaged conversation watching accident waiting happen tormenting I asked Paty think Amapola stove A barely glanc opposite direction towards daughter Oh worry alright The second example comes recent visit Puerto Montt nearby people I walking along street right before family crossing about block The parents child easily navigated obstacle headed furniture store their children still trying traffic across street The between years neither parents children behind seemed express possibility danger lurking moment Eventually across street joined family In cases I surprised carefree attitude Per I surrounded protective society United States adapted differences between cultures My transition between cultur still process I expect noticeable months Just sition between languages still difficult Usually after spending computer writing segments newsletters I putting together smooth sentence Spanish My housemates probably wondering wrong I piece together simple sentence asking about their But I trust transition between languages cultures become smoother And probably I think different about Chilean culture become dramatic customary during years But I answers questions I remind myself about trait I often which become mantra patience FELLOWS AND THEIR ACTIVITIES Institute Current World Affairs EUROPE RUSSIA Adam Smith Albion Uzbekistan A former research associate Institute EastWest Stud Prague Czech Republic Adam studying about republics Central Asia their importance actors within without former Soviet A Harvard gradu History Adam completed first M Litt Degree Russian East European history guages Oxford University Gregory Feifer Russia With fluent Russian Master Harvard Gregory worked Moscow political editor Agence France Presse weekly Russia Journal Greg Russia latest failures economic political reform continuation failed attempts Westernization began Peter Great failures succession behind scenes elites Russia behind mythic facade strong rulers centuries He plans assess continuation these cultural underpinnings Russian governance Gorbachev Yeltsin succession Whitney Mason Turkey A freelance print television journalist Whit began founding newspaper called The Siberian Review Novosibirsk worked editor Vladivostok News wrote Asiaweek magazine Hong Kong In switched radio video journalism working Bosnia Korea CBS As ICWA Fellow studying writing about Turkey nexus between East West tween traditional secular Islam Jean Beno Nadeau France A French Canadian journalist playwright Jean Beno drama National Theater School Montreal ceived B A McGill University Political Science His The holder several Canadian magazine investigative journalism awards spending ICWA fellowship years France studying resistance French trend nomic cultural globalization SOUTH ASIA Shelly Renae Browning Australia A surgeon specializing hearing Dr Browning studying approaches traditional healers among Aborigi Australia indigenous peoples Vanuatu problems She B S Chemistry University South studied physician patient relationships China Australia Thomas J Watson Fellowship M D Emory University Atlanta Before ICWA fellow Fellow Skull Base Surgery Montreal McGill University Department Otolaryngology SAHARA Marc Michaelson Ethiopia A program manager Save Children The Gambia Marc moved across Africa Horn there assess nation build Eritrea Ethiopia conditions permitting availing unavailing humanitarian efforts northern Somalia south Sudan With B A political science Tufts degree study London School Economics Master International Peace Studies Notre Dame scribes postgraduate years seven years experience international development programming peace research THE AMERICAS Wendy Call Mexico A Healthy Societies Fellow Wendy spending years Mexico Isthmus Tehuantepec immersed contradic trends attempt industrialize develop along proposed Caribbean Pacific containerized railway desire indigenous peoples preserve their Mexico remaining growth forests With B A Biology Oberlin Wendy worked munications coordinator Grassroots International national campaign director Infact corporate accountability organiza Paige Evans Cuba A playwright former Literary Manager Manhattan Theatre Club New York City Paige looking Cuba through performing With History Literature B A Harvard served counselor Buckhorn Children Center Buckhorn Kentucky Arts Editor International Courier Rome Italy adjunct essor teaching course Contemporary American Play wrights New York University She joined Manhattan The Club Peter Keller Chile Public affairs officer Redwood National Park Yosemite National Park before fellowship Peter holds B S Recreation Resource Management University Montana Masters Environmental Law Ver Law School As John Miller Musser Memorial Forest Society Fellow spending years Chile Argentina comparing operations parks forest reserves controlled Chilean Argentine governments those controlled private persons governmental organizations Susan Sterner Brazil A staff photographer Associated Press Los Angeles Susan received B A International Studies Cultural An thropology Emory University Master Latin American Studies Vanderbilt AP ranging signments Haiti Mexico along U S Mexican border Her fellowship topic lives status Brazilian women Tyrone Turner Brazil A photojournalist Black Star whose appeared U S newspapers magazines Tyrone holds Master degree Government Latin American politics Georgetown University produced photo essays youth violence New Orleans genocide Rwanda mining In donesia As Institute Fellow photographing writing about Brazilian youth S Paulo industrial South Recife Salvador Northeast ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries professional researchers subscription Phone E Mail ICWA valley Fax Web Site Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Assistant Brent Jacobson Publications Manager Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation The information contained publication reproduced without writer permission PK Author Keller Peter Title ICWA Letters The Americas ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia South Asia Mideast North Africa Europe Russia Sub Saharan Africa Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique orting analysis periodic assessment international events issues Institute Current World Affairs THE CRANE ROGERS FOUNDATION Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 USA