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1/15/2006 - I’m Going on a Trip: Tourism in South Asia by Richard D. Connerney

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Joseph Battat Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler Sharon F Doorasamy Peter Geithner Gary Hartshorn Katherine Roth Kono Cheng Li Peter Bird Martin Dasa Obereigner David Z Robinson Carol Rose John Spencer Edmund Sutton HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A RDC SOUTH ASIA Richard Connerney Phillips Talbot Fellow studying influen impact religion Indian society I Going Trip Tourism South Asia By Richard D Connerney JANUARY Anthropologists sometimes describe phenomenon called going native which affects those extended stays foreign countries It causes travelers their cultural bearings world their subjects In other cases however experience going native problematic In 1950s example New Yorker named Tobias Schneebaum cultural immersion Living among isolated group hunter gatherers Peru Schneebaum participated tribal dined tribe cannibalistic feasts While I anything extreme I sometimes I danger going native For instance these I tourists wholly different fellow wanderers Indians bizarre vagabonds blundering through distant Over I traveled popular tourist spots South Asia Benares Khajuraho Kathmandu enlightenment visitors As I along I began notice strange behavior average Indian Nepali Throughout I tourism Asia indus unrehearsed interface between radically different worlds Tourism experts meeting experts Delhi shopkeepers meeting retired attorneys Pittsburgh Nepali rickshaw drivers encountering vacationing instruc Colorado housewives Kansas conversation orthodox Mus imams It confluence populations marketplace across bargaining table without script without The results sometimes humorous sometimes tragic often exasperating Bleeding Hearts My first intimation I native occurs downtown Delhi while arguing rickshaw driver behalf European friends In India price Rs about rickshaw subject impassioned debate The driver children three naked complain I larger heavier average Indian If rickshaw gripe about price gasoline unfair traffic ticket required I respond I white I crorepati millionaire distance quite short gasoline prices inevitably tomorrow I large actually quite light These exchanges simply everyday India there malice intended either rickshaw driver myself To European friends cannot follow Hindi looks shouting match I worry For Schneebaum adventures memoir Keep River Your Right recent released tempered tight fisted Westerners accustomed arguing market place often consider bargaining distasteful Many tourists arrive Asia given currency exchange there reason should argue about prices Most times going transportation venirs museum admissions raise their voice Over I catch Euro friends handing excessive amounts rickshaw drivers storeowners without complaint Perhaps imagined Indians perceived their compensations generosity They would dismayed their rickshaw driver owner about earshot Giv rupees rupee rickshaw sidered generosity derided idiocy Excessive erality makes prices further equent travelers reinforces impression Westerners little ATM machines When traveling India contribute toward worthy causes Scattering money indiscriminately drivers beggars little effect poverty however makes foolish In certain circumstances misplaced lanthropy disturbing results A weeks later while walking popular hiking outside Nepali village Tolka I woman carrying small child As I approached bared child which displayed series discolora tions Holding Look child disease She needs medicine I looked child The marks seemed bruises abrasions infection disease I smiled young smiled I asked feeling sponded laughing gleefully spectacle while speaking Nepali She seemed happy normal child somebody suffering serious infection I mother I doctor could offer neither advice medicine Then money Everybody gives money Of I doubt I guessed woman probably modest income asking trekkers donate money whose wounds I purposely inflicted Judith Yoga Pants I Judith conceptual artist Switzerland hotel outside Benares Like thousands other European Americans India twist herself pretzel poses Benares myriad ashrams Equally important Judith opportunity visit offered chase particular pants demand Switzer She explained class Zurich wearing pants India distinction Yoga classical darshana schools Hindu hiloso complex religio philosophi school seeks human atman unending cycle birth death samsara through series ascetic mental physi practices Judith reasons ticing She claimed massaged inner organs When asked which organs particular answered distinct kidneys worked better class As strange sounds alone holding beliefs Although dence health benefits scant millions Westerners Judith remain convinced RDC accomplish anything curing baldness increasing IQ This Western obsession often strikes Indi comical For their religious connotations devotion ceticism Until recently Western practitioners outward postures asana alone bring health little terest religious philosophical foundations puzzling traditional Indians It would similarly Indians arrived America began praying rosary because believed their fingers The Naked European If Judith obsessed pants however least wanted something Oddly while tourists fixated certain contextualized practices Hindu religion oblivious contempo social mores Many women usually European women I traveling India remained particu larly stubborn about their wardrobe On occasions I foreign ladies miniskirts remote rural areas India At hotel Rajasthan French woman showed This embarrassing hotel staff tempted themselves rather caught Watching brother Jim equally discon certing although interesting In Delhi Jim I Jama Masjid large Mughal mosque section Jim unfortunately elected shorts doormen mosque insisted cover himself skirt garment called lungi The sight white wearing lungi cause curiosity snickering Jim umbrage attention I wondered really fault Arriv under dressed place worship particularly sacred religion major I wanted would Indian arrived Christmas wearing Speedo Every guidebook I Indian continent contains section appropriate dress state governments recently published recommen dations traveler attire Thus tourists cannot claim ignorance about proper wardrobe India Most realize their appearance occasion embar rassment mirth For probably realiza country weeks drives their behavior Others probably absolutist clothing ethics appropriate Milan Paris Berlin India Some Western women I skimpy clothing right freedom speech regard compromise local custom trayal feminist ideals As their misplaced donatives rickshaw however inappropriate dress makes diffi those It reinforces Indian people persistent about Westerners sexual libertines Moreover flaunt approach female apparel simply sense Many Indians sugges tively dressed tourists liberated women sexual objects deliberately seeking amorous atten tions young In country where rampant sexual crime widesp letting culturally insensitive dangerous No News Good News In India Western tourists remain willfully aware country visiting In Nepal other locals pitch visitors about their country political realities This May trekked along popular Singalila ridge West Bengal crossed Nepali border Tumling Kala Pakhora The under effective control Maoist insurgency evidence Royal Nepali Army Nepali government In villages hammer sickle graced almost household In places found Maoist American graffiti There electricity Nepali village The still supposed health benefits Some extravagant claims complexion boosts immune system receive support medical science Other benefits weight muscle toning could expected regular aerobic exercise calisthenics Yoga reduce stress Then again listening music moderate drinking See myhealthsense F040629_yoga Times India Lucknow Edition Decent Exposure INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Tumling elevation guests Shikar Guest House gathered around burning stove dropped behind hills temperature dropped below freezing While warming ourselves glowing embers Nira owner guesthouse local schoolteacher When asked Nira denied there Maoist activity Tumling What about graffiti communist flags I asked Surely there reason Still Nira would admit Maoist presence village All along Singalila ridge people I spoke denied violence occurred result Maoist insurgency At Indian border I member SSB Shastra Sena Bal Indian Border Security Forces assured there conflicts along Indo Nepali border Darjeeling district The innkeeper became incensed I asked about trouble Maoists along Singalila ridge Lies It None The innkeeper response reflected dearly local business owners Maoist insurgency remain closely guarded secret The truth however April Maoists attacked Nepali village Pashupatinagar about kilometers Darjeeling Several Nepali policemen shops village bazaar burned ground The violence since incident result Nepali Royal Army apparent withdrawal district Thus violence affected Nepali police security force Even single stray bullet strik foreign backpacker could disastrous tourist industry North Singalila ridge Sikkim Tourist Ministry already drawn plans alter hiking routes stray Nepali border The Darjeeling district similar changes future This would tenuous recovery tourism Nepal which precipitously Thus reluctance people along Singalila ridge openly about current civil understandable The tourists better The Great Himalayan Shakedown In Kathmandu I found opposite attitude At government office where I applied entrance Annapurna Mountain region woman matter factly If Maoists mountains money When I expressed surprise would advice government office replied Well It better right As Deborah brother Jim I Pokhara along traveled Annapurna range I I agreed I heard stories about tourists being robbed beaten Maoist rebels thought running gloom expedition As entered tains however hikers The Statesman North Bengal Sikkim Plus Section New routes Nepal border See expresstravelandtourism 200509 spotlight04 shtml RDC Left Sunrise Annapurna range central Nepal Right European tourists enjoy unaware being watched reported problems robberies Our porter San learned local villagers Royal Nepalese Army patrolling large numbers I hoped could complete trouble insurgents O village Ghorepani eleva Ghorepani trail popular among foreign travelers nicknamed The Apple Pie Trail because village innkeepers learned approximation apple their customers When climbed nearby Poon Hill elevation morning watch Annapurna range Western tourists joined After enjoying spectacu scenery everybody descended Poon Hill break We unpleasant surprise At three dressed Army fatigues They Maoavaadi Maoists collecting taxes People War The tourists stunned There three I overheard people Couldn Or overpower In prudence valor Most heard stories about violent confrontations between Maoists tourists Although displaying weapons their leader several suspicious bulges under He point periodically speaking walkie talkie The clear there Maoists close In almost everyone reached their pockets Nepali rupees about In exchange One Israeli couple seeing Maoists underbrush They later emerged village unharmed robbed INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS ceived Maoist receipt theory would prevent other groups Maoists collecting taxes second I going easily however Think donation violent group Maoists ICWA funds I approached their leader Asim I I writer working article about Nepal asked I could interview You journalist asked Sort I answered I writin about Nepal I showed ICWA identification He glanced moment apparent could English words Where asked When I answered America looked moment You there pointed nearby As I there waiting I wondered I mistake The American government offered military advice training funds Royal Nepalese Army America particular target Maoist anger I afraid I placed Deborah Jim myself danger After collected taxes Asim He He American government labeled organization atankavaadi terrorists under orders journalists cially American He explained ticularly because Royal Nepalese Army captured comrade If going insisted You truth print Eventually voice I questions Asim years A grade school dropout joined Maoists fight against Nepal derer King His views politics mostly rehash Maoist ideology brightened I asked armed He pulled small pistol pocket Mauser It Ger What proud however pistol comrades welded together village He Deborah photo graph It looked school project wrong I wondered danger weapon Asim himself After speaking short Asim repeated request I American people truth about Nepali Maoists I agreed asked expected taxes He smiled shook No matter people country about Tell terrorists Before I Poon Hill I noticed lingering arguing Asim assistant They money yelling waving their Unfortunately French Maoists language common Even insurgents willing listen their tests could understand their heavily accented English Asim assistant remained imperturbable simply repeated request Rupees which Frenchmen apoplectic I afraid confron tation would badly I offered translate tourists By point however beyond interested delivering dramatic perfor mance communication I their In tired gesticulating their taxes I Going Trip I Bringing Some Cultural Sensitivity This young Maoists culturally tourists rampant miscommunication disaster happen How I wondered until raised Sylvester Stallone movies attempts thing foolish How until young fanatical Maoist Asim finally tires listening indignant Europeans Nepal mountains remain willfully ignorant civil rages beneath Af experience I I admired Asim tourists victimized Without Asim would return Nepal series postcard photo graphs towering Himalayan peaks little conception nation suffering Those India often create caste minds We tourists because unlike researchers relief workers doing anything important Maybe wrong assump Asim homemade pistol however Tourists The American government issued warnings about travel Nepal American tourists today about Nepal tourists compared Europeans See welcomenepal arrivalstat RDC important unaware sometimes badly Indians their first impression Europe America Air travel Indians West erners neighbors But culturally insensitive tourists dressed overflowing wallets every other Om bargain store keepers which perfectly acceptable armed insur gents instead jarringly annoying neighbors Lately I tourists I strong I actually Indian disease Then I reproach myself Stop I think becom Tobias Schneebaum engrossed alien culture guratively eating After tourism neither itself individual travelers It bring alien peoples closer together foster understanding ternatively erode cultures engender xenopho What differentiates tourism tourism simple taking library about local customs It small world cultural least Future India please shrunken needs INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Current Fellows their Activities INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Richard D Connerney January INDIA A lecturer Philosophy Asian Religions Logic Rutgers University Rick Connerney spending years Phillips Talbot Fellow studying writing about intertwining religion culture politics India described former U S Ambassador John Ke nneth Galbraith functioning anarchy Rick B A M A religion Wheaton College University Hawaii respectively Kay Dilday October FRANCE MOROCCO An editor New York Times Op Ed years Kay holds M A Comparative International Politics Theory Graduate Center City University New York Bachelor degree English Literature Tufts University graduate Universiteit Amsterdam Netherlands Cours Civilisation Sorbonne She traveled written Haiti began journalistic council reporter Somerville This Week Somerville MA Cristina Merrill June ROMANIA Born Bucharest Cristina moved Romania United States mother father Learning English retaining Romanian majored American History Harvard College there became captain women tennis She received Master degree Journalism New York University worked several U S publications Adweek New York Times spending years Romania watching emerge darkness Ceauscescu regime presumed light membership European Union NATO Nicholas Schmidle October IRAN A journalist researcher Pew Forum Religious Public Life Nick finishing Master program Comparative Regional Studies Middle East Central Asia American University Washington DC He studying intensive Persian fiancee Rikki Bohan anticipation departure Iran after marriage autumn Andrew J Tabler February SYRIA LEBANON Andrew lived studied worked Middle East since Rotary Foundation Ambassadorial Fellowship enabled begin Arabic language studies toward Master degree American University Cairo Following Master editorships Middle East Times Cairo Times before moving Turkey Lebanon Syria working Senior Editor Oxford Business Group correspondent Economist Intelligence Unit His ICWA fellowship bases Beirut Damascus where report Lebanese affairs Syrian reform Jill Winder July GERMANY With B A politics Whitman College Walla Walla WA Master degree Art Curating Bard College Annandale Hudson NY Jill ICWA Donors Fellow looking Germany through ideas viewpoints contemporary artists Before months intensive study German language Berlin Thomas J Watson Fellow looking communist practice cultural politics transition former Soviet Czech Republic Slovakia Poland Croatia Hungary Latvia Romania Slovenia Ukraine Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues Author Connerney Richard D Title ICWA Letters South Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia The Americas Europe Russia Mideast North Africa Sub Saharan Africa ICWA Letters ISSN published Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The provided charge members ICWA available libraries profes sional researchers subscription Phone Fax E Mail valley Web address Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Administrator Brent Jacobson Publications Design Management Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Af fairs The Crane Rogers Foundation This newsletter reprinted republished without express written consent Institute Cur World Affairs