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5/15/2006 - Democracy Crossing: The King vs. Kathmandu by Richard D. Connerney

ICWA LETTERS Since Institute Current World Affairs Crane Rogers Foundation provided fellowships enable outstanding young professionals outside United States write about international areas issues An exempt operating foundation endowed Charles R Crane Institute supported contributions minded individuals foundations TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Joseph Battat Mary Lynne Bird Steven Butler Sharon F Doorasamy Peter Geithner Gary Hartshorn Katherine Roth Kono Cheng Li Peter Bird Martin Dasa Obereigner David Z Robinson Carol Rose John Spencer Edmund Sutton HONORARY TRUSTEES David Elliot David Hapgood Pat M Holt Edwin S Munger Richard H Nolte Albert Ravenholt Phillips Talbot Institute Current World Affairs The Crane Rogers Foundation Four West Wheelock Street Hanover New Hampshire 03755 U S A RDC SOUTH ASIA Richard Connerney Phillips Talbot Fellow studying influe impact religion Indian society Democracy Crossing The King Kathmandu By Richard D Connerney MAY KATHMANDU Nepa One morning breakfast I looked Times India servant Sona crouched floor eating morning paratha flatbread Servants Lucknow expected floor I never really thought about before On morning however thing bothered about seeing Sona crouched ground while I table It might empty chairs America friends Himalayas escape summer I lonely So whether desire fairness company I asked Sona would table Nahin Bhai nahain shaking vigorously No brother I tried again Sona I I normal culture I strange sitting there Please She smiled shyly stood hopped chair dangling above floor She seemed uncomfort Have never chair before I teased Then inspira I added See baraabar equal Yes baraabar expression I couldn quite The morning encouragement Sona break joined table Ah I thought myself victory egalitarian social progress Bhai Sona There sugar The sugar cabinet I answered Yes I Go I tired This first extraordinary demands Sona In Sona sitting chairs little furniture reclining remained dusted She asked When I bought color wrong I should another Unnerved sudden change attitude I decided I At breakfast later I looked across table hesitantly Sona maybe should floor today She pretended That evening I sleeping conditioner running blast I still steaming about Sona behav later I virtually empty Indian Airlines tainous Kathmandu Valley Nepal As I gazed Himalayan foothills I mulled Sona ingratitude I I given remarkable privileges taken advantage She progressive views caste women excuse laziness I dered I should Indian Airlines little giving lunch flight Delhi Kathmandu There people board surplus By plane cleared Kathmandu Valley I spirits After I still I I going Sona awaited Nepal I Nepal several reasons One escape Uttar Pradesh enjoy Nepal vibrant nightlife More importantly research Indian embassy Kathmandu The problem Kingdom Nepal midst prolonged political crisis Images riots burning vehicles crowded television screens newspapers Indian Western press The government posed strict curfew Kathmandu accompanied shoot sight order If number protesters lated curfew anyway indication King Gyanendra become perhaps popular monarch since Louis XVI As I stepped airplane I could thing wrong While flight almost empty departure lounge packed people trying leave country Even stranger single greeted airport Instead government buses waited fellow travelers through deserted streets hotels The signs crossed Nepali soldiers camouflage A tourist Texas disturbed silence Is there holiday today asked Being there curfew exclaimed A curfew Why I haven curfew since school What Western travelers remained Nepal holed hotels Thamel tourist district Kathmandu On surface seemed taking stride At Kathmandu Guest House guests RDC lounged sunned themselves garden Even oasis gathering storm however When I ordered Irish coffee hotel I cream How about Pepsi Sorry I drink shipments through At dinner I handed remaining option dinner veggie burgers In evening I drunk Nepali nearby As Newar Nepali Buddhist tribe spoke neither Hindi Nepali lisping drink I could derstand trying emphatically Finally frustration grabbed looked passionately English Nepal finished Nepal finished Out streets young onstrations tomorrow would Ratna Park Kathmandu He Thamel demonstrations I should careful walking around Down alley large group soldiers fingering their M Throughout Thamel weeks llected garbage rotting April Nauseated smell I returned I stood balcony looked rooftops A beautiful Nepali flowing raven black appeared window adjacent building She stood still moment thinking noise leaned forward vomited alley below Yesterday Massacre The morning April I turned TV catch almost every channel showed static CNN BBC MTV Only channel Nepali language channel visible It broadcasting endless Hindu astrology When ended program began about Panda bears Across bottom screen single message scrolling repeatedly right The government announced curfew Without television trekking sightseeing other usual activities residents Kathmandu Guest House getting restless Some stuck Kathmandu weeks unable flight What looked carefree lounging garden previous night today looked stultification induced stimulus I decided leave Thamel I could demonstrations This easier The police diers surrounded Thamel checkpoints allowing foreign travelers neighborhood After being turned check point I decided Unfor tunately I I approached diers confronted young woman officer Where going asked To visit friend I Nepali What friend demanded I forgot It Nepali She looked Where friend I thought moment declared I where lives I going She looked pained expression Go hotel A storekeeper nearby witnessed exchange He advice Not served I I clever Don speak Nepali scolded They think Pretend French right His advice sound At checkpoint I tended understand anything soldiers Nepali English Bonjour I cheerfully The storekeeper right A person could speak common language carrying televi camera interest Eventu wandered interrogate somebody I slipped street In alleys I asked people where today demonstrations received conflicting answers Some people pointed north I rickshaw driver named Ram where demonstrations could where yesterday massacre occurred Due blackout newspapers I heard yesterday massacre Ram three people neighborhood Kalanki Ram INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS As described event soldiers opened demonstrators without provocation Ram would Kalanki I liked Since between neighbor hoods strictly bidden through alleys roads We walked through Kathmandu pressed neighborhoods shacks scrap plastic sheets clustered along rancid smelling stream called Vishnumati River We crossed river suspect footbridge wobbly planks When reached other heard shouting distance Following sound found small procession about people waving communist flags shouting slogans Unable emerge roads testers marched forth between shantytowns preaching converted Eventually reached Swayambhu temple about Kalanki We climbed temple steps looked westward The Kalanki packed trucks soldiers Could through alleys I asked Ram shook We could would reach there before I The prospect trying navigate alleys without guide daunting I better Ram finally They curfew tomorrow morning hours I drive I agreed walked together Thamel We conver sation stumbled checkpoint A woman officer approached yelled Ram Nepali You cannot foreigner Thamel This permitted I pretended understand Back Thamel finally lobby TV A large demonstration gathered Bhuneshwar How gather there I asked Nepali There answered And nobody communicate phones there newspapers People noise possible others I thought about moment It seemed appro priate Information Age social revolution Nepal information anything The palace attempted prevent political Kathmandu communicating other blocking television programs newspapers mobile phones The people medium their voices On evening April King Gyanendra dressed nation He expressed desire peace kingdom asked political parties present candidate Prime Minister would power To sounded King number important concessions Few Nepalis however He power again feels hotel lobby This nothing given nothing Oddly despite King announce ments widespread disdain little situation government lifted curfew morning April anyway When Ram I reached Kalanki about large crowds already gathered The streets strewn broken glass burnt tires government office intersec trashed At where viously least three demonstrators RDC death soldiers somebody painted Lokatantra Chowk Democracy Crossing large letters We England Japan kings Kumar Swasta resident Kathmandu Laxman Singh teacher echoed saying while historical tural Nepal power G B Acharya student Tribhuvan University summed feelings protesters He given nothing republic For these protesters others I spoke write Nepali constitution abdica would satisfy Certain clauses Constitution Articles respectively allow solve governments If political parties allowed palace initiate government under Article would implicitly King power dissolve government under Article The King already these several years Nepalis I spoke recent speech dance As Nepali constitution allowed palace power whenever there could peace agitation To protesters political parties represented seemed eaded The agreed power political parties background I consider malicious individual simply desired power power The occasional interference palace Nepali politics honored affair after ruled worse Nepal coalition ernment It seemed stubborn perpetuate unbridled lence civic unrest because small constitu tional imperfections A River People Back Thamel afternoon I check local internet As I computer I heard shouting alley outside It continued steadily louder I stepped going alley countless protesters They shouted slogans toward Durbar Square For least I watched demonstration A European tourist standing opinion there could people Kathmandu I happening They going circle seeing people again I disagreed I least million people attended rally before I thought simply demonstration similar She argued point claiming remembered protesters passing To settle argument I joined procession indeed going around circle I allowed swept people followed through alleyways In middle cession I noticed blonde woman carrying She petite getting jostled crowd I worried safety decided I would protect pushing shoving masses I introduced myself She freelance photogra Poland As along I could I correct demonstration moving circle extremely large It heading south turning attempting emerge streets directly south palace All sudden people reversed direction swept backward running screaming torrent people Tear someone yelled Hundreds thousands people suddenly started stampeding through narrow alleyways Kathmandu palace It unnerv Fearing I would caught underfoot I crowd ducked doorway When I caught breath I realized I Polish woman chaos I afraid would trampled I gathered courage emerged I worried I found perched doorstep calmly taking photos surging crowd She looked You It looked I responded Actu I orchestrating retreat With hundreds thousands coursing through streets Kathmandu I could imagine police soldiers could possibly control On April demonstrators whelmed police outposts sheer numbers approached palace The soldiers responded beatings bullets Hun dreds people reported seriously injured Luckily rained afternoon About driving hailstorm poured Kathmandu Valley cooling revolutionary ardor throwing balance contest That evening Thamel The events taken their people attitudes Former prime minister Sher Deuba example appointed under Article dismissed under Article INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS Protesters police gather Kalanki Democracy Crossing morning April At dinner England confronted drunken calling humorless bastard I failed laugh impersonation moose I respond taunts When people being beaten streets battling their government having fight besotted possibly shell shocked British tourist nothing seemed beyond petty When response looked confused moment cursed measure wandered alley Later I moved Tom Jerry Pub where I discussed events expatriates Everest beers while The Sex Pistols God Save Queen played stereo God Save Queen The fascist regime God Save Queen She human being A group restaurateur Holland En glish teacher Scotland musician Greece apparently unemployed natured London other foreign residents Kathmandu ended Kathmandu oldest located directly across street royal Our gradually improved flowed RDC laughed drank danced ourselves pleasant oblivion ended sunrise Sometimes close proximity disaster creates strong desire pleasure least nothing Or companions night bellowed about We doomed Where corkscrew When I emerged April I walked boulevards south royal burnt tires smashed bottles sleepy Nepali soldiers huddled behind squat green armored vehicles sitting rhino sized beetles before palace gates I looked empty streets would filled transport trucks police ambulances wished I wanted protesters political parties accept concessions Mostly I wanted friendly I loved again I wanted breakfast A night revelry ravenous curfews shortages limited dining options Suddenly I wished Sona there And Sona How unfair I I wanted sitting chair dusting furniture But I consider herself equal And I furniture I never should Of course I really wanted equality terms contingent continued satisfac Such formulation equality enough respecting person Offering chair ultimately disingenuous wonder deliberately antagonized neglecting duties That morning I stood street corner looked battlefield Kathmandu become occurred relationship So King Gyanendra relationship Nepali people Democracy bestowed King overshadowed constant threat resumed royal tyranny democracy Of course protesters thought speech Accepting King concessions would allow reigning monarch again dissolve government royal proclamation future It would short appearance mocracy progress result further authoritarianism followed additional paroxysms civil unrest Unlike Nepalis blame brother King Birendra I never consid King individual In larger context Nepali history actions unprecedented Nepali kings taken power times crisis century Moreover violence April police rarely deadly force depend asked casualties three weeks civil unrest somewhere between Kathmandu Tiananmen Square The Prince Paras however gained reputation volatile brutal individual The frightening scenario I imagine Nepal events month under reign unsteady truly cruel monarch At I could where those headed protesters Kalanki If Nepal going brighter future needed constitution government depend judgments sound unsound hereditary ruler Postscript The political parties Nepal called massive onstrations April Their encircle demonstrations along Kathmandu Ring Road converge palace Late evening however King addressed nation By royal proclamation convened parliament which since This considerable concession itical parties mention provision constitutional amendment dication The proposing government people people kindness immediate future until palace decided needed dissolved again On other weeks uncollected garbage undelivered taking their protesters On morning seven political parties discuss newest palace concession The meeting Ring Road jubilant I asked people thought offer convene parliament enough Most responded totally satisfactory could first Many admitted after three weeks curfews riots conclusion uprising cially which least appeared submit people attractive option A hours later chann announced politi parties accepted offer called demonstrations The agitation erupted celebration I joined The Thamel again after rioting I needed drink About morning I found myself standing corner Fire Club popular dance Thamel A haired Nepali stood friends Suddenly about eight licemen wearing signature camouflage walked grabbed haired shirt 2What obvious millions everyday Nepalis however seemingly beyond comprehension Western ernments That Western embassies urged political parties comply royal scheme seemed their expressed democracy human rights INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS dragged outside while beating their After difficult information about arrested One bartender could Another Nepali patron something during demonstrations could exactly Mostly everybody wanted forget happened dancing drinking Ke garne What bartender Would another drink The event wonder benefits people Nepal really gained As I write King Gyanendra still lives palace continues unique political powers This political parties struggled posal constituent assembly redraw Nepali constitution progress If history measure Nepali political parties tendency bicker themselves stagnation there strong possibility relative unity currently enjoy memory upris If happens constitution changed would leave Articles firmly human rights shaky footing Nepal Institute Fellows chosen basis character previous experience promise They young professionals funded spend minimum years carrying designed programs study writing outside United States The Fellows required report their findings experiences field month They write subject formally informally The result unique reporting analysis periodic assessment interna tional events issues Author Connerney Richard D Title ICWA Letters South Asia ISSN Imprint Institute Current World Affairs Hanover NH Material Type Serial Language English Frequency Monthly Other Regions East Asia The Americas Europe Russia Mideast North Africa Sub Saharan Africa ICWA Letters ISSN lished Institute Current World Affairs Inc exempt operating foundation incorporated New York State offices located West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 The letters provided charge members ICWA available libraries profes sional researchers subscription Phone Fax E Mail valley Web address Executive Director Peter Bird Martin Program Administrator Brent Jacobson Publications Design Management Ellen Kozak Institute Current World Af fairs The Crane Rogers Foundation This newsletter reprinted republished without express written consent Institute Cur World Affairs