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3/15/1948 - Istanbul: Modernization and Restoration by Richard D. Robinson

RDR I OT FOR PUBLICATION Robert College Istanbul Turkey March Mr Walter S Rogers Intiue Current World Affair Fifth Avenue New York New York Dear Mr Rogers This about Istanbul which To perhaps teeming metropolis still remains Constantlnople fabulous Sublime P which exists which visitedastudied chiefly relics quity ancient crumbling walls tulip fountains somber Ottoman fortresses overlooking Bosporus ruins great palaces multi doomed mosques their families spindly minarets But Muezzin minaret calls Faithful prayer drowned modern stanbul below around people busily engaged building world place outworn struggling catch which their horizons The Arabic script language Koran sprawling artistically across fountain palace mosqueIs longer decipherable young citizen Turkey youth looking towards West turning Meccae Not psychologically Istanbul differ Istanbul Golden Horn takin youthful contours One winding cobble stone streets making boulevards better adapted milling traffic Sections being demolished parks recreation areas housin developments Honking flotillas shiny latest school buildings translations Stateside sellers almost released American public swing bands worst western films amazing evolution The twentieth century Istnbulth vengeance It May night Fatih Mehmet If leader Ottoman Turkse silently pulled attack boats Bospomus skidded inland greased runways Before launched Golden Horn behiri great chain which Byzantine defenders onstantineple stretched confidently access Cornuceplan inlet where spills contents Sea armera As broke taken surprise unexpected force relatively unprotected quarter The Ottoman besiegers storming taking And Istanbul plans commemorate 500th Turkish stain intBnaional exhibition It somethin nature comin which Turkey proudly pesent Istanbul world Istanbul being groomed event zealous group planners The immediate these planners major civic lifting Job accomplished prior exhibition Actually amazing amount already Starting nothing maize narow mesnderin byways hopeless Jointed buildings modernization swaths through Jungle millin humanity For those familiar amiss these improvements years Included A large stadium Delmabahche modernity The broad Ataturk Bridge across Golden Horn divided Ataturk Boulevard connecting bridg Istanbul The break parkway where traffic lanes divide passageways between asslve maser pylons supporting Roman eduet A modernistic plaza sunken garden extensive Taxim district where barracks stand A divided parkway Taxim northward toward Shishll A luxurious YelJu Salenu Travelers Salen waterfront Here located customs tourists restaurant lounges A plaza grens Beyazit entrance Istanbul University A renovated Spice Bazaar Yeni Jamii New Mosque Eminonu A large modernistic radio building along toward completion Itanbul curiously enough radio station Turkey radio Government transmitter Ankara Wide boulevards leading stadium Dolmabahche Taxis Machka A Bebek north European Bosporus Istinye Ii A public seaslde resort Flerya PlaJlar Marmots A large square between Yani Jmli Golden Horn This involved clearin sizable congested buildings An expansive plaza Beshlktash opening Bosp Those projects planning stage which there realization before Ig53 inclue An extension Taxis northwar Harblye R Coversion entire valley Delmabahche The French owned works A large public simming theatre amphi theatre athletic felda included prepesod development At least large modern hotel Taxis The hotel swanky small Park Hotel Clearance maize retting buildings Fish Bazaar along Golden Horn construction modern markets warehomsea A widened Beshiktash northward along Bosporus Bebek An improved yacht harbor Fener Bahche vehicle tunnel under Pera network modern boulevards parkways Res9ratioa historic sites including clearance relatively buildings Hippodrome This latter district surrounded vacant rubbish strewn acres between Sultan Ahmet Mosque Blue Osque Aya Sophia likewise A relative project enumerated above might nterest Some excavation restoration famous landmarks recent years The energetic attempted renovation monumental Aya Sophia which turned Byzantine museum complete official guides Its great walls repaired magnificent mosaics Christian origin cleaned their Ottoman plawter covering excavations carried beneath floor building However stroll through ruins Justinisns palace disheartening The little which remains being allowed decay disintegrate Practically entire blighted Middle Eastern worst The great arches columns which palace famous gradually disappearing entirely searchers after bricks stones chisel unmerclfu Nearby seaside marble relics Justinlans iperlal going restless Sea Marmots gnaws unprotected Here characteristic imperial monogram Justinian Theedor carved marble awaitin unscrupulous chisel acquisitive archeologist souvenir hunter The great underground cisterns supported fabulous mrble columns filling earth debris One chamber which I visited short being stable Everwhere neglect Fewer fewer people remember access these underground structures Even I accompanied fecal archeologist versed Byzantine little about encompassing before entrance largest these underground chambers could trance prove flight stone steps leading darMess RDR shaft opening which choked bushes debris It situated garbage strewn vacant adjacent appears Junk Nearby ancient Byzantine frescoes believed among oldest world protected crude wooden shelter Meanwhile moisture their Most paintin obliterated Actually thing neighborhood which effort toward adequate protection apparent As mosaic entrance Justinian palace This reputedly magnificent floor moslac uncovered excavators years beneatha Jule rubble During process incidentally mosaic inadvertently peared Now section mosaic topped heavy layer solid cement protection against weather vandallsm interested Another panel covered thick carpet which caretaker refuses brush aside anyone Se Thi apparent interest hitherto Turkish Government protecting relics least understardable It government which straining every fiber clean cultural break turning people binding traditions mores bygone manner vigorous philosophy That conditioning process steadily forward there indication relics Turkey great history again their fetters symbols proud nationalistic Turkey Psychologically would Turkish Government attention Old hates emotions dylag objectivity comln Modern Turkey outdone Turkey feelin inferiority toward largely The visitor Exhlbiion probably least historic larmarks restored proudly displayed rather hidden among slums piles debris On other tourist Turk proud Istanbul However Juncture admit remains Istanbul compete actively tourist trade In spite recent improvements still difficult tourist house amuse himself If fails secure pitifully small Park Hotel content himself rather second third hotel If finds extravagant price Abdullah Prk handle pressed track attractive place If wishes through crowd mediocre theatres The infrequent productions reputation There literally locally produced music worthy Other P Hotel Taxim Oasino handfull third nightclubs sociae remain unsatisfied shortcomings least planners rectify restorin historio sites providing tourist comforts doubt powers Istanbul placed level teurlst Rome Athens Yours sincerely Richard D oblnson Received Iew York