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10/2/1954 - Bolivia--An Introductory Report by Richard W. Patch

NOT FOR INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS P Hotel Colon Bolivia An Introductory Repot Cochabamba BoliVia October Mr Walter S Roers 5Fifth Avenue New York New York Dear Mr Rogers Bolivia country which broken suddenly dramatically consciously The wreckage construction confusingly every times indistinguishable other Fo I traveling Andean plateau which along western boundary Bolivia capital La Paz through agricultural valleys central Bolivia forests pampas department Santa Cruz which Brazil Paraguay south Now enormous variety first impressions bewilderlnly different points persons I talked Vice President Republic Guarani speaking Indians Jungle begin overall sense I hastening first impressions Early morning September I splendid colonial Arequipa Perd La Paz Bolivia For hours train seemed climb straight above rugged mountains famous volcano Arequipao We reached altitude which would expect torturous descent other place world rugged Andes level enormou plateau called altilano I traveled night following between I above level This Ite years Central Railroad Perd which reaches OOO Cerro Pasco there certain sense drama heiht worried lookin carried cylinder compressed oxygen waftin passengers faces obviously intensely absorbing experience travelin known Perd hihest ndard railroad world Travelin altiplano contrary nobody seemed havin e_erience The altitude theressin scenery matter Course I difficulty seein goin8 through because passengers pulled indow shades sleep But samples altiplano ficient because characteristic incredibly onotonou sameness The altiplano appears desert durin present season ringed fabulous ranges capped ountains distance occasional equally impressive volcanic peaks The brown expanse barren trees shrubs punctuated enormous lakes which coldest places earth apparently supportin peculiar little water birds skitter frenetically across water approach train The people infreouent settlements train stops brown Thei brown complexions matched their knitted flaps They distrust bright colors cheer would emphaslze dreariness their universe The impressive unheated railway huddled overcoat hands pockets lookin amazement people slttirIn doorways round often mostly women As first rains season which turned light finally pounding still women shepherdin their llamas vicua miles house settlement The railroad inspire confidence The locomotive which pulled Arequipa became tired climbed finally exhausted capacities grade We waited another machine called continue climb A freight engine atlast original engin ignominiously relegated backing freight One derailed paased passenger coaches explanation fault engineer rails spread seemed satisfy Unfortunately freight engine electrical connections passenger trains arrived Puno Petal after coaches candles which served hands In Puno I encountered difficulty entering country which because plague smugglers political consoirators maintains elaborate rigid requirements entrance country Americas especially those persons entering Perd whose relations Bolivia cordial First baggage through Peruvian customs I permit leave Perd I Bolivian consul Puno although I already obtained New York Another agency permission enter Bolivia I finally received statement Peruvian government I country I allowed aboard S S Inca English Channel steamer built years Scotland sailed Arica Perd pieces there shipped railroad Puno together evermore waters Lake Titicaca between Puno Perd Guaqui Bolivia Lake Titlcaca about Lake Erie about highest navigable world But highest world banality Bolivia highest hi6hest airport other records At until steam length Guaqui losin crossed Eastern Atlantic Lake Titicaca splendid sight peaks distance thousands small fields s_a_yaas clustered advautae climate Mo these rmers spend considerable their fishln passed through their fleets which consisted hundreds boats woven dried reeds which profusely substitute nicely existent Each handwoven manned person successfully navigate length bresdth In Guaqui baggage scrutinized Bolivian customs officials really object importation shrunken heads La Paz I listed everything I hoped eventually leave country passport stamped I entered country On train Guaqul La Paz c6ntin across Bolivian itiplano One first train stops Tiahuanacu fortunately close enough ruins culture which spread unlikely through Perd north Colombia south Chile Argentina before Incas military quest influence artistic products Before arriving La Paz I surrendered passport would returned after I repoted police department immi6ration authorities At La Paz Alto reached inter ruption altiplano descended La Paz suddenly apoeared thousand below level plateau straggles sides moUntains uptown downtown figures speech The O00 altitude first finds walking tremendous exertion rapidly becomes acclimated The restless nervousness people La Paz their expressed hopes their apparent fears their newly realized aspirations their chronic privations microcosm country wrenching adjustment after fundamental chane change which reshaping Bolivia being closely followed other countries South Am erica The revolution Bolivia April something profound generally understood Latin American revol ution Latin American politics stereotyped newspapers United States identity planned attempted frustrated successful revolution But reported revolution Latin American republic often result ordered understood Latin America process designed shift power small group leaders another equally small group representing essentially interests often persons political idelogy differing details deposed leadership There strict rules revolution adhered sides The quietly secure support sections armed forces police effective power possible believe enough force unlikely event pitched battle inform situation But often perfectly aware situation making counter proposals power roups If succeed former flock embassies capital where technically foreign granted asylum nearly sacred Latin American political tradition eventually receive con6ucts exile If privilege An revolution happened Perd recently General Norie_a attempted President Manuel Odria loriea Qresident cabinet ministers position given Odria because directed military force instrumental Odria accession power However Noriega thought enjoy Dower proceeded solicit units armed forces cause However Odria aware Noriea activities consolidated Eovernment called chief unctionaries Lima One eruvian diplomat befor attempt reached climax bound Callao Lima explainin fellow paener there revolutiou Impendln Lima summoned ahead When Odria position telephoned Noriega informing units favorable Noriega surrounded units loyal Odria Noriega given conduct matter course Panama thereafter press conference New York despotic state government Petal The important point persons countries wouldn slightest difference Noriea Odria charge overnment which regardless titular leader dedicated preservation social status which present economic system country depeuds Particularly countries large Indian populatio parti cipants restricted political arena exercise greatest awaken sense political participation Indians indeed national scene except vital cheap laborers agriculture mines Bolivia previous April suffered state affairsmore other American republic having sustained revolutions violent illegal changes government since pendence Further Bolivia suffered fierce exploitation succession natural resources singular series national catastrophes pendence Bolivia always extreme position In colonial period richest Spanish colonies silver suffered accordingly ferocity sought For years republic Bolivia proto Latin American political temperammnt dedicated solely llderismo blind extatlc following personality capture imagination command Perhaps strange Bolivia again reacting extremely extremities Bolivia first country begin unorganized fighting aainst Spanish It independence In intervening years there regular rather bands armed under leaders called caudillos Sim6n Bolivar after having fought major battles aaiSt Spanish Antonio Jos Sucre finally caudillos gaining independence Audencia Charas which first pertained Viceroyalty Lms Buenos Aires But immediately Bolivia began fight invaders Perd sought reannex mineral Upper Perd Lower Perd Lima The country might suffered gained abundance resources In latter century nitrogenous deposits Bolivian Pacific coast guano Bolivian coastal islands became immensely valuable fertilizers The deposits became object Chillan exploiters closer contact withthe Bolivian coast Bolivia itself whose government population centered highlands eperated coast western Andes In Chilian troops occupied Bolivian Antofagast Perd Joined Bolivi against Chile War Pacific Bolivi waswithout organized military force retired losing entire coastal Chile Bolivia became empletely landlocked country Americas Paraguay least river navigation through Argentina At century rubber suddenly became important resource Bolivia important supply region Arcs bordering Brazil When Bolivia sought establish river world market through Ace Brazil resisted Bolivia fought Brazil until Bolivia defeat forced region Arcs Brazil exchange OOO pounds sterling behind first rubber In possession Gran Chaco between south eastern foothills Andes Rio Paraguay nearly worthless pampa potentially valuable resources became object violent controversy between Bolivia Paraguay In spite strong opposition Bolivians against armed conflict Bolivia Paraguay July Bolivi declared Chaco War partly reasons national prestige partly theexpectatlon victory Paraguay minute eculpped However continued brilliant military strategy Paraguayan Marshall Estigarribla ineptness General Hans Kundt German eaded military mission Bolivia together Bolivians ignorance warfare waterless expanses Chaco submerged Bolivia utter humiliating defeat The least Bolivian lives population percentage Paraguayans bankrupted countries The heritage disruption 0time which neither country fully recovered Since BoliVia territory But Bolivia Chaco War beginning spirit nationalism leveling process which Indians mestizos mixed Indian Spanish fought together lived together three years common unparalleled break tradition mestizo superiority Both groups became acquainted familiar Indians mestizos Bolivians might together common The political fermentwaS further learned early universities imbued socialist Marxist ideologies This particularly significant Bolivia because Bolivia Latin American countries universities center violent political aitation sources political orientations Tin magnates Sim6n Patio whose income period years greater national overnment became symbolm upper class spised miners Slowly large landowners estates latifund0S whose agriculture depended unpaid labor peons system dating feudalistic Spain became associated popular stereotype exploiters capitalists feudaliSts enemies people Bolivia The owners landowners years government Bolivia actin through monotonoua series dictators shape target rising political movement This movement supported mines Ind impoverished estizos other former political nonentities majority population stirrin object lesson President Germgn Busch Busch young popular Chaco War assumed conplete dictatoi power Buch expropriated properties companies Bolivia formed national petroleum corporation On June II Busch decreed iO0percent proceeds exportation minerals turned ovenment which would payment national currency On August Busch committed suicide usherin period political chaos The people Bolivia another taste power revolution Lieut Col Gu Iberto Vill rroel government A political party formed called Movlmlento N Revolucionario represent miners landless Indians esziz6s The M N R mainly Victor Paz Estenssoro former profes economics university La Paz organizer brilliant orator Documents seized American Army Germany published United States State Department Blue Book February indi6ate P Estens soroconspired President Juan Per6n Argentina German asents bring about Bolivian revolution Paz Estenssoro became Finance Minister under Villarroel The first regime M N R consolidated powmr plowed under reaction Germany The overnment unusually violent R July President Villarroel haned plaza La Paz front Government Palace Incre violence showed basic difference between struggle Bolivia powerful roups fIEhtinE survival usually bloodless coups other Latin American republics whose ifferences often simply personalities A constitutional election May which exiled Victor Paz stenssoro almost percen ballots Since M N R followers illiterate since changed evident powerful political force Bolivia Although Paz nearest opponent O00 votes receive absolute majority constitutionaly Congress would selected president three candidates backed ruling overnment But May President Urrolaoiti resined turned government Junta three generals seven colonels Chile attempt block M N R cession power Urriolagoiti provoked major revolution 179th April This revolution nearly civil between forces representing owners landowners other vested interests fi6hting expropriation their property thousands representatives miners Indians destitute mestizos fightin nationalization mines political representation Three thousand persons killed La Paz alone Victor Paz Estens became resident Bolivia April This revolution again unlike revolutions Latin America probably irreversible The former ruling class stripped politica power mportant economic power agrarian reform nationalization mines The campesinos small often subsistence farmers miners fiercely loyal consider their party Capture military would longer capture country One oppostion group Falange attempted demon strate weakness M N R government timed coincide visit United States Senator Homer Capehart La Paz This abortive attempt matter union members succeeded demonstrating weakness opposition Thus Bolivia broken other country Latin America aside Mexico But perhaps important significance Bolivia potential significance osuch demonstration heart South America center nations shared Bolivia history since coming Spaniards common heritage Inca Empire Cnsidered narrowest scope Bolivian experience cannot cause repercussions Perd Ecuador share problems economic backwardness their dependence labor large politically inert Indian population These Indians aspire mestizohood aware anthropologists studied problem barriers against their achievement social racial attempts distinguish between Indi mestizos basis physiological differences proven futile rather barriers cultural ignorance Spanish nguae maintenance traditional dress customs communSties hciendas isolated mestizo towns Many Indians become recognized mestizos through their efforts change which occured Bolivia ceasing emphasize cultural differences Indians providing their education their economic independence their participation national affairs previously exclusive domain mestizo Some signs outside repercussions already evident Indians altiplano Puno Perd appeared La Paz offices National Ararian Reform Service askin Officials there explained Bolivian Agrarian Reform applies Bolivia The Ecuadorian government requested United Nations agrari reform expert study problems country These examoles attention effects experiment which other overnments ponderin seriously I remained La Paz September until Septeme La OOO bustling movement Perhaps bustle natural effect crowding these persons space years There construction Latin American cities colonial buildings patios shutters still The Peace Signs dollar shortage scarcity capital everywhere The steel concrete skeletons office buildings apartments hotels paralysed since Taking youare likely invited start llars scarce batteries Vehicle owners perform miracles patchin threadb tires Electric power turned night different section Families their bathtubs filled water guarding against pressure failures One primary reasons dollar shortage Bolivia lopsided dependence exportation percent foreign exchange Althoug I production declined since nationalization mines October world price U S refined pound October recent price pound disas trous Bolivia Bolivia producer compared Malaya I mines cover expenses latter price The streets La Paz precipitous After heavy moderate inclines because polished slippery bricks steeper hills worse San Francisco streets Restaurants located L Paz cosmopolitan proportion modest Bolivia encouraged immigration Europe causeaby World War II neighboring countries erecting barriers German Polish Italian constantly heard streets I usually restaurant known theHoAu_stric_o Austrian In capital I talked President National Ararlan Reform Servlce Eduardo Arze Loureiro Vice President Republic Hernn Siles Zuazo directed commission which framed agrarian reform Foreign Minister Republic Walter Guevara Arze considered intellectual leader Movlmiento Nacionalista Revolucionario Party Edmundo Flores Mexican inagrarianreform problems Bolivia years atthat country Food Agriculture Organization United Nations assisted writin agrarian reform Thomas A Hart Inter Americ Educational Service William J Greeh Inter Amerlcan Agricultural Service number government officials persons Opposition government dispossessed landholders persons academic fields Theseconversatlons wealth material confusing contradictory times sifting comparison political economic problems country particularly agrarian reform program conceived regarded La Paz The agrarian reform social document interesting vision social ideal It written commission eminently capable spent months their preparing treatise covering aspects concrete economic application their concept social function society envisaEe It thorough specifying sweeping profound changes imaginable Olympian disregard enormous difficultie implementation The decree establishes first original right Nation waters territory Republic This following abstracts Decretos Ley Numerous o34____4 0347_ Reforma Agra_ia e__qn B01_ivi Edmundo Flores The comments interpretations The State recognizes guarantees agrarian private property fulfills useful function society The State recognizes following forms agrarian private property peasant homesite small holding operated farmer family subsistence purposes medium holdin operated hired labor agriculture machinery purpose marketing produce Indian communities agrarian cooperative holding finally agriculOural enterprise Specifically State recognize legality fundio rural property large which accordi eoraphical location remains exploited deficiently extensive system capital inputs relative other factors obsolete tools practices which serves perpetuate serfdom submission peasant Theme feudal estates subject expropriation their entirety They often Spanish times characterized their depen dence labor peons three without lands patron return continued permission their small subsistence plots The illeal latifundio distinguished recognized agricultural enterprise latter conceived intensive operated large capital investments producing market labor wages enjoying right organize participate collective bargaining regardless amount enterprise The recog aricultural enterprise reflection commission desire maintain level aricultural production their concern amount scarce dollars impor basic foods which could produced within country The decree fixes maximum sizes holdings which varies accordin whether holdings plateau altiplano areas mainly utilized livestock grazing valleys eastern tropical region cultivable alone being taking account The holdings different regions based careful studies reports trained agron omists specialists necessary satisfy needs rural family The decree establishes rights Indian communities recover lands which usurped These Indian munities actually communes derive their origins communal organization Inca Empire holdin6 worklug coopers tively These communes widespread Andean Area becomin because particularly susceptible mestizos desire Most communes taken Indians turned latifundios As promulgation decree Aug communities which claim resti tution rights occupy toward which claims There great difficulties considerable strif appllcstlon provision decree In community members comnos diven peons imported other hacienda Now imported peons former comunros rights All Bolivian citizens years sexes Intend receive grants wherever there available lands condition cultivate within priod years Pasants subjected feudal regime exploitation declared owners occupying workin until National Ararian Rform Srvice grants lands which rights accordanc definition small holding Th right prefrenc individual receive grants rests prmannt resldnc farmer In areas there enough lands rants family alloting small holding dfined particular region family If lands suffic grant family grant reduced necessary proportion accomodat legally preferential rights Th pasants insufficiently provid presrv their rights grants other rgions availabl lands Asid already mntiond grants pasant altiplano valleys which xtrmly ulation densities receive hectares acres Eastern frontier provided applies these lands fulfills obligation beginning within years Edmundo Flores noted problems raised application above provisions decree First impossibility granting peasant families lands approaching ideally determined small holdings large areas Bolivia particularly altiplano central valleys where population densities reach levels Second fragmenation these lands necessary accordance provisions decree reduce holdings these areas uheconomic Sizes adequat subsistence pitiful level present population which growing estimated percent Flores defense decree government published May 19_64 Issure Land Economics An attempt Altiplano region agricultural units close hypothetical optimum would require complete disregard population pressure Id require simultaneous transfer population surpluses other regions other productive activities Since measures impossible immediately alternatives either maintain status redistribute either collectively individually according workable system elgibillty priority Land redistribution tradi tionally farmed congested areas achive provide stepping stone incorporate peasants political social country technological improvement ariculture Altipla consequent increase eSsndard living peasants Expropriated lands according their nurent astral value bonds which capitalized inter percent annum mature years The benefitted peasants cadastral value granted lands maximum period years The mortgage debts incurred pients grantswill subect pereent interest annum value received Pavment annual installmsnt payments Ispse period installments revert public domain The Stte grant other oeasants under terms considered convenient State This sounds impressively planned eventual practicality application doubted light grave difficulties government representatives encountered their attempts adjudi legalize campesiams already taken their hands This discussed further below observations actual state agrarian reform program areas I visited T opposition government seemed resigned agraorisn reform program outlined decree owever these persons stressed matters beyond limits decree cases overnment control Former landholders affected decree ridiculed published announce ments National Agraris Reform Service informing former proprietors their right present their claims indemnification title medium holding formerly their cultivators wages The majority those former landowners opposition government present claims This because physical violence their former peasant clsims local ararian ludges Juntas rurales where dispossessed landowuers formerly nmost these landholgers cities precisely escape campesinos Other ndowners still hoping change political cimate fsvorble preSudice consider their clear title entering Sudication campesinos Some persons other spoke progress Ararian eform Service legalizing campesinos right lands taken No dfinitive final titles granted approximstely preliminary confirmations title Indians former latifundios altiplano Actually Service nearly oaralysed relisblelsnd surveys technicians capable making Presi Paz Estenssoro issued special decree authorizing Service utilize personnel proceeding rapidly possible surveys On September La Pa Cochabamba traveling which country difficult mountain roads excllnt service St Elias A lcaar Agrarian Sr specialist problems concerning Indian couns accompanied W remained overnight mining Oruro place dominated mining magnats contolld mining workers union Mnumnts ralsd mining demonstrators years order Pearanda The following continuedthe precipitous descent plateau serpentine which constantly presented vistas which would expect airplane truck The mountains bounding great Cochabamba Valley central Bolivia Sight hours before finally reached valley floor We constantly stopped barricades erected across official control points depart mental governments campesinos provide somee revenue I advised attempt travel night The Cochabamba VaIley aratively above level delightful Mediterranean climate Irrigation necessary valley supports wealth trees Other tation which traveler altiplano impression arrival Elysian fields The densely populated crowded altiplano campesinos difficulty wringing subsistence plots Most families unsuccessful forced carry supplemental trade member family Argentina cutting sugar season The trades varied often ingenious Some carpenters blacksmiths manufacturing crude knives sickles horseshoes construct lanterns discarded Indian women Of valley peculiar varnished white crown least highest potters nearly everybody makes chicha maize astonishing alcoholic content A campesinos talked timated spend percent their income chicha On I ventured Cochabamba kilometers Indian hamlet Ana Rancho district UcureHa province A El Angostura constructed recently short distance south Cochabamba Rio Tamborada purposes irrigation hydroelectric power The backed waters flooded hectares O00 acres valley adding knotty problem resettlement these farmers already burdened nearly insurmountable problems We passed gleaming apparently maintained refinery Bolivia constructed expropriated Standard Oil Company Near refinery agricultural experiment station Tamborada three Bolivia plateau Belen another Saavedra lowlands eastern frontier A series incidents recently befallen these agricultural experiment stations which serve illustrate unanticipated developments arising agrarian reform The Belen station altiplano scarcity Belen hacienda worked peons until acquired Bolivian government years operated 8ricultural experiment station ointly Intr Amerlcan Agricultural Service United States Technical Assists_nc Program A months former peons retaiued ststion laborers exDerimental lends lands themselves force claiming since worked lands peons right under Ars Reform Decree The national government considered using troops drive Indians eventually dcided action present there technical personnel station The secon experiment station Tamborada Cochabamba conspicuous holdings considerable pressure Although supposedly inviblate under government property being operated common interest meuaced campesinos Bolivian American officials responsible operstion distributed trying experimental purposes The region Ucurea where I going known through Bolivia principal focus agrarian reform It village August decree signed President Republic Cabinet Here campesinos unalterably determined secure moreland themselves either within without There bdrnin resentment against landowners resist expropriation their Four landowuers killed nearly allve threatened One finc__a medium estate known throughout valley model agricultural operation It heavily capitalized large quantity machinery intensively farmed modern practices It easily within decree definition cultural euterprise legally exempt expropriation However former campesino laborers finca occupied possession chinry including vehicles drove former owner Even residence turned hospital campesinos The situation further compli number other esinos nearby village Isidro their lands flooding caused construction Angostura Dam attemptiug possession fincs Finally group miners rights under crtsin conditions started complex legalistic proceeding secure themselves finca This another illustration xtent extra legal effects reform Such examples clear study importance aspects necessary actually visit these rural areas campesinos former landholders dtermine whether simply phase whether there sibility legal adudicatlon whether activities agrarian regardless lawmakers La Paz The befor reaching vills Ucure Cliza which certain different Bolivia Its inhabi tsuts become identified fingered profession Clizeos emmigrate other parts Bolivia never admit Cliza rather Pucats short vivid reputation Th villag Ucura sprawled Th sidents semed suprlsd rival vhlcles commandeered campesinos friendly helpful beliimy expecta tions baleful stars knives belts I dstin ation Aria Rancho kilometers beyond Ucra One campesino however volunteered which years footpath He consulted lnEth others Quechua Indian languag apparently Spanish words Quchua inflctions which I understand about dubious bridges He agreed accompany found bridges nothing thrown across irlgation channels chinked blocks livestock wouldn through I dtrmind unfortunately matter prlncipl driver Cosm Cosm rearranged gunned motor across great sound falling adobes W miraculously cross other idges arrived Ana Rancho Cosm wearing triumphant smile I wished visit Ana Rancho because present being pofoundly affected agrarian rform because Agrarian Reform Srvice begun colonization proJct narly uninhabited lowlands Depar Santa Cruz resettlement persons Cochabamba Valley volunteers first group sttlrs Ana Rancho Th hamlet scattering about houses mostly grouped located midst numberless plots which surround sttlmnt The campesinos speak Quchua languag Inc which still spoken Andan Indians Southern Colombia through Ecuador Prd Bolivia places other ndignous languagm still surviv notably altiplano majority Indians speak Aymar Fortunately however people alley speak least Spanish particularly schooling speak Spanish fluently peculiarly I spent going house talking patti cularly colonis first stint Santa Cruz clearing Jungl planting helping their families prpaations spring planting which first rains October This group colonlmts return Santa Cruz scond group sttlrs returns it__s prlimlnary labors After stopping third house I compli cated greeting which I encountered other Latin America It combination handshake Latin abrazo consists shaking hands unless person preparing chicha which dangling wrist grasp upper stepping quickly together traditional abraz0 which around other shoulder other under which around shoulder brief thumping other backs finally final Th Ifficulty occurs abrazo_ accidntly aloft which abrazo looks collision ducks broken wings A really accomplished prformr thing sconds The people friendly seemed pleased When I explained I interrupt their replied thing plenty tim__e their small fields provide opportunity particularly there fsmily At there troupe least twenty persons making rounds At house Sr Alcazar community specialist I required boiled drink calabash chichaU luxury consumed these people towns bolivianos Since those campesuos daily receives approximately bolivlanos presented Sr Alcazar family represent fourth average daily earnings A boliviano Bolivian currency worth hundreths U S xchange bolivianos for0nellar Bolivia currency cheapest American republics I impressed enthusiasm possibilities colony Each sssured hectares acres farming clear This princely amount compared fraction hectare possesse typical family Ana Rancho Only colony which helping weaken belief eastern lowlands veritable deathtrap The Santa Cruz where colony located malaria relatively temperate climate anxious return colony maize yucca nearly tasteless nutritious communal somption first construct houses their families The colonists working cooperatively until clear enough eventual individual distribution Apparently families Aua ancho expect benefit distribution Agrsrlan ervlce Their lands which belonged monastary which leased periodically highest bidder worked Ana Rancho peons belonged families Ana private property since taken monastary partitioned among c8moesinos reform years there still enough Sr Eduardo Arze Loureiro Presideut National Agrarian Reform Service La Paz Cochabambs September We arranged before I La Ps rapid general progress agrsrian reform Cochabamba Santa Cruz inspect St Arze rural sociologist aronomist trained Michigan State Colleg Inter Amrlcan Agriculture Srvic tsching experiment center Turrialba Costa Eica He staff member Institute Agricultural Sciences ssslgned Andean under Dr Carlos Madrid Bing Bolivian Arze naturally interested Bolivia agricultmral roblems particularly intrigued possibility resettlement program Cochabamba Valley Santa Cruz H formulated proposal Institute Bolivia attempt carry In La Paz participated Agrarian Commission dlibrations during writing decree eventually President newly formed National Ararian eform Srvlce The Bolivian ricultural Develop Corporation Corporacin Boliviano Fomnto Srvic million bolivianos O00 financ ttlment xperimnt Arze member Movimiento Nacionlista Rvolucionario mainly becus politician deeply sympathizes party social He profound regard United Stats regard shared M N R leaders Above 0uickly grssp reality situation visualize prsctical attain goals rconiz barriers Unfortunately latter uality often called daily ideal Abraham Lincoln He resvatlons about Geo Washington suspects Gorge probably kicked slaves round while Arz I drove Cliza provincial capital Juris diction Ucurea district agrarian President Rural Junta charged adjudication legalization claims campesinos prietors Both Junta Judge partisans campesinos Juntas throughout Bolivia Tey pointed President Republic their rcommendation their militsnt party support If Judge Junta becom unpopular campesinos campesinos ptition President offenders replaced Th President Rurs Junta Cliza small landholder hectares acres enough attract campesinos dispossessed hectares The President Junta resigned himself situation without power nforce partm decree protecting other landowners Arze directed prepare summary situation various affected fincas which Arze present Presldnt Paz stenssoro resol The three Arze Elias Alcazar I Cocha Santa Cruz September again truck We traveled spanking Cocabsmba Santa Cruz Port chuelo highway officially inaugurated later President Paz Estenssoro States Assists Secretary State Latin American Affairs Holland The given final scrapeing preparation President party magnificent condition compared Wlth La Paz Cochabamba The overall descent Cochabamba Santa Cruz OOO intervening ranges final great undulations Andes before Amazon basin The views spectacular From lofty ridge I counted ranges disappearing horizon As descended countryside trees peculiar scrubby incredibly twisted little trees supporting their burden mosses parssitic growths Down further penetrated through dense forests larger variety calledSd_e Tor____o Thes trees light colored crszily twisted intertwined branches heavily overgrown hanging sites there other growth presented wierd picture But denly climbed again nothing barren Santa Cuz capital Depa rtment Santa Cruz Cochabambs colonial There little struction adobe brick buildings plaster cracking front reminds comparative newness republic compared years Spanish At sntrance pvement which intermittently evidence kilometer approach Santa altogether surrendered uagmires streets For tunately earth muddy comparatively navigate I learn vital ifference sandy We stayed overnight after considerable difficulty fining hotel available rooms The fiesta patron saint Santa Cruz September prolonged merge stlvities President impending arrival There dances progress every restaurant psssed The following morning continued Montero passinE trouEh indisputable evidence activity caused completion highway markets The lined fincs being cleared maize sugar cotton cotton mills every direction bricks burned constructions At Montero turning disreputable trsck through country Ls Loma Ararian P eform Serice colony beyond Rio Grande The incredible twisting turning avoid which torrential rains reduced bottomless holes The three types reflecting intermediate position between pampas Grsn Argentina southeast forests Beni Brazil north Th natives classify relatively clear bushes farming because organic content sandy black level little cover matter occasionally farmed heavily overgrown tyoical forest vgets mahogsny variety other I unable recognize The monte hvily fvored cultur spite breakin necesss clear Arriving hacienda buildings Compaia Agropecuario Oriente elcomed Juan Pyrera Ibis company hectares O00 acres which cultivates pproxims hectares It voluntarily hectares acres unclesred government distributed among I00 families coonlsts These lands colony kilometers farther along Rio Grands beyond buildings theCompaia Since houses completed colony advantage St Peyrera generous hospitality boarded Casa Hacienda That afternoon I talked colonists group cleaIng Una Rncho Ucurea another called KJari Jlna The J represent sound Quechua throat finally emerging explosive gutteral The enthusiastic about prospects colony uniformly anxious complete clearing planting house construction Again heeded arnings sbout scratching insect bites other wished return Ucurea saying maadJusted The following colony started early mornin Montero Portachuelo participate ceremonies welcoming Prei4ent Paz Estenssoro arrived Henry Holland inauguration highway Nobody seemed Henry Holland partlcularly The important thing President Republic visit hinterland which feels itself isolated national overnment La Pan A tropical started which turned morass Th colonists truck manag sandy stretches unfortunately constructed crown truck havily ditch However olonists determined themselves befor their president truck shovel earth thirty shoulders spinning managed truck This happened twenty times efore reaching Montero clock afternoon All rolled trousers knees shucked shoes muddy continuing downpour looking pioneers presidential reception Since President party aleady passed Montero inspecting shgar furthe Portachuelo colonists ahead formed themselves their banner s_ayIng Viva Reforma Agraria colonizaci6n ochabamba llano They Bolivian somewhere practicing their cheers Viva Refoma Agraria Viva Pan Estens Presldente Constitucional Republlca Viva Movimiento Nacionalista Revolu clonario Viva However passing stopped spgrt shirt hopped shook hands thirty congratulating their colonists stood absolutely being COnstitutional President Republic The President party continued lunching rusticly banks Rio Piruay We followed procession Paz speech Portachuelo The bridge hasomet built across Piruay ministers automobil loaded which hauled La Paz crossing Paz howev inslstd tryin river amazingly succeeded although truck behud mired pulled Th little Portachulo having important history The prefect rambling speech municipal building which nobody could beyond first thousands packed plaza There cheering Paz mounted careful attention speech given commanding manner The President addressed group comrades previous governments Bolivia which xceptions those Busch Villarroel indifferent common people Then spoke great difference government which proven devotion peopl nationalization mines agrarian rform He concluded stressing necessity nited States sistanc capital cited Holland evidence United Stats Bolivia Th crowd cheered enthusiastically until another downpour scattered everybody shelter The roads Dac colony vening beyond blief We resolved could Were spared prospect thoughtfulness Pyrera tractor The rains actually first known region surazo weather brought steady south winds blowing Ar across pampas Chaco Boreal turning tropics Santa Cruz blustery icebox The continu roads impassabl impossibl It strange feelin dense mahogany forests monkeys chattrin outraged sulrrls parrots flyin overhead still chilled wishing lined mackintosh Fortunately Don Juan Peyra inexhaustabl conversation alist informed about precarious state agriculture Santa Cruz He spoke lugth difficulties agricultural enterprise attem oting produce surplus market aside threat partition under agrarian reform In first government prices basic correspond official exchange bolivianos dollar compared exchange bolivianos dollar Since Don Juan costs machinery imports dollars purchased market products artificially prices unable costs raising certain crops other products margin extremely Because great popular pressure against living government decontrol prices Because wages livin already thought unreasonably A cabinet minister receives equivalent month experienced tractor driver dollar common laborer cents Second government fills large importing wheat other commodities cheap official exchange These imported commodities undersell domestic producers disastrous results market oriented enterprises Third grave difficulty placing minor parts machinery Replacement nearly unobtainabl Bolivia importers payment dollars However importation gasket requires impert prmit takes weeks prmit Import prmits cafully scrutinized becaus great volum contraband Argentina Prd caused prics Bolivia goodm imported bollvianos dollar A person Bollvla sllln dollars buying goods belivianos impertd official obtains goods fractien their dollar United Stats Fourth interference local authorities often independently national government La Paz Don Juan trucks requisitioned carry campesinos surrounding country Montero order respectmble crowd welcome President Paz Estenssoro Don J required lumber sawmill construction benches church Monter0 He invited contribute bollvianos welcome President All Don Juan workers excused three welcome President because period officially declared holiday Don Juan fined bolivianos because reports being delivered authorities Montero delayed because during One trucks three Montero because carry medicine chest officially recuired traffic control authorities Don Juan accused sabotaging President welcome Portachuelo because party persons Santa Cruz after President passed through Montero Fifth critical workers The underpopulated Depart Santa Cruz always suffered shortage workers depended mainly Guarayo Yndians Rio Grands However greatly eightened activity caused accessilllty markets agricultural agricultural enterprises competing limited labor force Furthermore these Guarani speakin8 Indians learned Spanish rapidly assimilated mestizo population The slackened enough truck through colony La Loma So colony consists about hectares cleared bulldozers Inter American Agricultural Service hectares cleared first colonists returned Ana Rancho hectares cleared second group still workin total about acres present To clear group works chopping trees which valueless construction purpemes The trees eventually sawed lumber standing Another group heavy underbrush machetes Ti fallen timber underbrush months burned The valuable trees which standing_ harmed In burning cults incomplete leaving larger trunks falln timber Planting around these trunks until sufficiently decomposed allow culti vation tractors The cleared first group burned prematurely after month still thicket trunks nches The present group anxious maize harvest July planting possible method pointed stick small perferations threw krnels maize tamped earth holes heels perforations climbing around fallen debris The worked although never handled machete before their lives ontended proiferation vegetation They crude rations yucca Jerked gusto retuned their uarters night singing They talked crops would chickens would settled permanently their families On first October Eduardo Arze received mother colony immediately Cochabamba I returned Santa Cruz attempt about operation agrarian reform program Department The highway seems effect aspect The program uuexploited expanses farmln8 available trouble clearing taken strange Campesinos laying claim established fincas along highway because increased greatly vaiUe proximity highway The olitical situation Santa Cruz dominated S andovgl perfectly Bolivian pronounced functionary gained immense popular following 6istributin8 valuable entrances highway He gained enemies extorting money small number businessman He entirely independently national govern M N R party His independence reached climax recently killed Santa Cruz military officer active M N None police milit officers Santa would could arrest Mor6n The Cabinet extraordinary session La Paz finally troops planes Santa Cruz The troops surrounded arrested Mor6n La Paz But government yielded pressure allow ior6n stand trial Santa Crz permitted return where apparent command situation These impressions after three weeks travel conversations seelng They disorganized recorded happened struck I spade Ucurea write coherent detailed escription happening district which overnment itselfhas selected showplace reform program Sincerely Rec dNewYorkI0 Ric P