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11/17/1956 - The Sudan: First Impressions by Smith Hempstone Jr.

NOT FOR PUBLICATION INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS SH November The Firs Im_ ressions Gramd Ho Kharoum The Sudan Walter S Rogers Institute Current World Affairs Fifth Avenue New York York Dear Rogers The haboobs south winds which scatter black desert eventu torrential rains Sudan baked towns emded white winter already dered slreels hartoum Now winds seadily ruffling fields country sighing through minarets Nahdi murmuring amids leaes banyan trees which hitchemer Avenue trace course Blue Nile The temperature reasonably comfort shade South Abbas Square narrow streets crowded raisei country people hurry market robes which originally white which timate contact acquired ochre color Surrounding market called cofJee houses shaded inevitable arcade Of cooled slowly turning overhead In corner vigorous backgamon caracterized violence which Dieces slammed going sedate cards progress There apers which there about alone And there Ik olitics Arab state deeply concerned question hartoum today unsheathed onets smiling itself matter country ofiicil state emergency since French forces Sue Canl Zone The airpor under heavy allowed airort restaurant terrace which commands landin field Several hundred young drill daily SH Omdurman parade ground northwest They volunteers liberate Egypt Western Imperialism They weapons uniforms having trouble young soldiers learning about falling their faces There question sharp click heels since shoes They without financial backing On November arrived aboard blacked airliner which skirted Egypt flying Libya Sudanese government subscribed pounds support volunteers asked generous gifts people To local press reported following donations pounds cattle bulls Yet quiet There demonstration All shops Europeans greeted courteously streets A social events cancel being taste during period national emergency But What I sought answer shaded terrace Sudan Cultural Centre The SCC unior British officers It stands directly opposite All Saints Anglican Cathedral It boasts swimming ladies Tuesdays Nuslim Sudan three rather parched grass tennis courts It decent library about thousand members piastres month membership It center social orificial Khartoum business professional Three groups about seven terr_ace Nost spped drinks infinitesimal Turkish coffee A Westernized drank whiskey All smoked incessantly A lonely Scot bacteriologist hired Sudanese governent moodily himself neither smoking drinkin The Assistant anager theclub I eviousl introduced smaller group They eaking English The group included Conunissioner L editor moderate U N tionalist newspaper wealth trader recentl returned South minor officials inisry Finance The convers_ ranged budgetary problems SH Suez crisis difficulty assimilating Southerners republic extension Gezira Scheme The Labor Commissioner explained I questioned Sudanese people differentiated government great sympathy Egyptians He three causes Natural sympathy engendered racial religious affinity The strong almost successful propaganda drive E ptian government which resulted election National Unionist Party union Egypt anschluss The continued presence Egypti teachers secondary school level All several hundred volunteers Egypt under twenty years Other Sudanese I talked general agree The government seems sufficient moves gratify feelings rabid Egyptian element pound donation granting Abbas barracks Omdurman house volunteers without doing anything provoke Western elements within country Western Powers themselves This government attitude government titude sources A belief neutralism policy Sudan A desire avoid government crisis Actuall elements enter educated Sudanese since serious mutiny Southern troops Fear willing admit third million their country inhaDitants ethnically turally Africa Arab League And politicalky before first pendence The government majority substantial paper But coalition government Liberals Soutiern P D P People Democratic larty ogzptian In opposition N U P Nationl nionist Party Dro union Egypt basically Western To maint0in majorit efnment enoui I D P independent U L folLouers rtt_ored there would generl election Lere T mornin newsp announced parlimen exDire January SH extended months avoid constitutional vacuum So politics Back Soot He rePresents problems facing month nation adequately trained personnel condu machinery government He represents problem which Sudanese themselves created insisted their government should almost totally Sudanized immediately Public opinion forced government ficial confided It would impossible politically British remain There overnment officials admit enough trained Sudanese machinery government moving proper Consequently government hiring Pakistani Indian Egyptian British technicians When Karl Krotki another point Krotki Pole birth naturalized Briton He earned British citizen Polish Brigade which fought Greece Libyan desert almost wiped Cassino Krotki Sudan British govern servant He stayed under republic winding biggest government Sudan first census He Sudanese assistant eventually replace But government seems function smooth reasonable manner there little pomposity braggadocio There obvious pride freedom realization physical economic limitations country determination produce those limitations possibly little beyond I leave Tuesday Gezira Sudan cotton source foreign exchange these theoretical goals being realized practical level Sincerely Received New York