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7/1/1991 - Impressions of Azerbaijan (or travels in trans-Turkiye) by Thomas Goltz

NOT FOR PUBLICATION WITHOtJI WRITER SCONSENT INSTITUTEOFCURRENTWORLDAFFAIRS Part III Peter Byrd Martin CA West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 Baku July Dear Peter In effort others might taken aback weight monster report I think instance include table contents Aboard Good Ship Turkmenistan Getting There The Reception Committee January Rasulzade Azeri Nationalism A Quick Walk Through History A Tour Baku Town Oil Field Forests Night Train Nahcivan Turkish De Ararat Albans Gendji Cruise Mobile Azeri Refugees Armenian Homes Among Mullahs Muharram Part III Full Circle As gather chapter headings report deals Soviet Republic Azerbai curious understood piece estate I admit right Eit Eo claimed chunk heart With further I submit Thomas Goltz ICWA fellow investigating Turkic nations Central Asia emphasis those Soviet Union Since InstituteofCurrentWorld Affairs theCrane Rogers Foundation hasprovidedlong termfellowships enable outstanding young adults outside United States write about international areas issues Endowed bythelateCharlesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations Ara AIban IwiIIsparethereaderdetailedde cription casuaI travels suffice former anged across ocial litical cbrum while latter ranqed eadth depth Nahcivan Our first sontaneou quides younq family Asker Mehmet local govern administration Turks determine please second taken Hassan fanatically Tu univer ofessor archaeoloqical history current opposition Member Parliament Agha 8eyidov himself incongruoust close Nahcivan native stwhite Azeri sttonq CP Centcal Committee membe wanning Brezshnev Hayda Aliev tried Baku third spent Hassan uncle Zahit municipal government keeper alonq unken opusi MP Abdullah final Zakir former student cheoloqy coincidence uncJer Hassan father ivate Cooperative estaurants Nahcivan pretended expert probo Aeri Albans With Men Asker toured checkec scanty monuments which cenbut conical monument Mrs Muamina Khatun It covered scaffolding I bother picture After commie Turkish conver ation inner private Kebab their could local Nith Hassan friendly drive visited north central sector Nahcivan opping Union famous facto Badamli bottles Moscow pharmacies where discover factory closec because Baku supplied The Armenian blockade teeth From there proceded 8hahbuz eneur owner brewed different types picked herbal series villages beyond Cholonli grace4 mosque const ucted Bwo local scription roubles addition corvex manpower donat materials hefty local folks A children chart picture Imam Khomeini graced walls latter Cyrillic inscription Ignr Islam arrived Wit Zahib inebr iabed A ullah traveled westward abaghlar century Selouk sbyle mosque medFese complex under appeae pepet thence Shakhrur Nahcivan Tur Ar menian border triangle He under northern Mount Afar viewed ogress Nahcivan lgdir ighway delicious wafermelons grown reminder fecund At valley bibable house vegetables coveted Tur onbier Iqdi F oranges other immediate Ar Our Zakir archaeologist sever obscur A central secSor including impressive church 8altakh Ab akunu ussian which renbly granar second church converted mosque village fhanasa Snake Mount iously ndicular massi 4ominat fertile Nahcivan plain Pt eminded nothing Devil Tower Wyoming cleft summit result bottom Noah scrapping submerged before landing Ararat kilomet West Along primar guides others famous waterfall inside Nahcivan water emersing mossy local museum nothing scial tantalizing repeat ences mysterious pro5o Aze Aln singula inability quidelguardians explain anything about couple pleasant outdoor shops couple sweaty hamam Tu right hotel obher video feaburing excruciatingly bloody Kuns flicks spiked cocktails designed please commercial It meanderings interesting tentat quick quest about Albans For appear zecent Azeri nationaliet discover piciously Turkish claim Hit Tu Sadl Ididn imeoundownmuchmoz einformationonthe group acquired casual conversation cross examinat essence newly discovezed prDbo Azez would appeaz Tur people ssiblzi guise Scyt hians rived southez Cau3usu midst founded eviously unknown hipping Zor laser embraced C3hristianity inguishing themselves neighboring A menians dis4aining nament Swast Maltese cross their sacral architecture although their esemble Armenians 3eorgians evenly respect Indeed seems greatest schola obstacle pointing separate ident although Alban inscript Armenian scFip Zakir others Albans could A menian Eit inscr beenbr anslated operly church Nahcivan conver muscle iding gymnasium spurious additions etched stone afher mendacious Armenians order erase memory Albans In essence Azeri scholarly argumen5 Albans summed Azeris belong where because before wandering hieves darlings Armenians nabive Who knows Maybe Buh appear obBuse disingenuous efforts aimed rewrit iradicat history please scholar technique I plenty familiar hanks years Tur Still seFved underline ional Azeris against Ar menians doubt versa The along would undeFlining highl Jii J Cr M Aided Fmrliamenta 2onbact problems acquiring ticket aboard Aeroflot Baku sinful price Roubles Sl The Kazim abode Masht Kazim Be household friends returned Ever would heard three simply assume worst They spent waiting phone The telephones explained anyway Of think But prises store hosts While Nahcivan learned inadvertently enber Azel kijan during Shiite pasion month lunar Muharram Zhat approaching pinnacle suffer aZonemenZ Ashura Imam Husein Ali grandson Pr Muhammad Peace Blessing Be Upon Him muderously along follower field Karbala wicked Umaywad neral laZer Caliph Yezid occasion remembered relive4 Shiites displays passion rangin incessant weeping whacking initially planned depart Tashkent fourth lunar prospect nesin Ashua Azer empbing informed hosts delaying depart And rather Jen esence ation thought might north Baku Eoad Nazi Hanim squealed hadya woman husband Kazim Merchant muttered Dt planning buying cheese Sheki replied Nazila taking control along visit Imam Zade Senti Gendji visit Jones If exactly content conversation minutes ement vague pJans North Nazi anno2ced busine would doublec cance would travel second largest Azerbaijan 3enci which Imam Huesein center pilgr image oughout approach Ashura major inaticn pious Accordingly joine Kahraman fifth morning Kazim vehicles shell Volga sedan without cabch calle cruise mobile Wee cried Nazi Hanim through aform forest I haven Bak Hmmph replied Kazim Bey pushed pedal I Volga could gotten desolation quicker first hours seven cruise ediou depressing Following reiion equally austere depressing landscape olling denuded plains devoid human animal And having problems specifically flabs Our firmer happened about kilometers Baku Happily local Kolkoz coilecbive happened moving again But taken opportunity check other seemed unlike Kazim Bek money Lbbei brought matter Why think other Volga sitting blocks orically It tires The second happened rocky mount leading Karabagh discovered repair spare shoddy eaked eatened happen seven night Baku although prospec havin seemed likely rolling holed baldies useless smile white other wearing double ongues where ubber pealed loose And aside Kolkoz epair I noticed anoZhe Nor other familiar sight blight There billboar traffic signs services dinar number electrical communication poles lining highway ather sight achut ooper gliding Dr commando operation Now hardly expected Taco Bell olden Arches break signal dearth erprise truly astounding I guess I subsequently visual Feminder commerce point where highway billboar seems wholly nor0mal I think first essions before I grown blind Then hungr thirsty needing break finally espied shack couple tables chais pulled It indeed obliged supply picnic The personnel enough provide glasses hermos Sat Oumped cruise mobile shift mount backs before esting slope overlooking fecund Aghsu Valley descending flats toward 3enci To perfectly honest impressive place Dominated aluminium plant whose killed vicinity place plans production quotas It which knots young khaki unifor whilin their being called break Azeri Ar menian violence eorgia South events epublic Achi urally speaking 8enci Aside brick mosque downt ended mainly older Azeri period archi thodox Russiar church attended mainly eldez lussian ladies erest uctur three storey private dwelling least embellished hundreds dinary cement lending residence ginger effect Elsewhere sight Gol manner would invite assumption owner total placing plastic flowers front house because couldn afford initial expense plant Hut within context Soviet Union bottles manner extraordinary extravagance because U88 cannot local equivalent drink water without having first delivered sized bottle store People empty bottles And owner zuite literally flaunting wealth announcing chose empty bottles facade In bourgeoisie indulgence might called 3ulaq Even oboect visit Imam Zade disappointment The turbe complex about kilometers mixed Revolution cemetery lacked unqle inscr tombs comes expect Muslim graveyard iqnificnce Most deceased honored nearly kitchy headstones their survivor their favorite portrait lithographed I believe technique stone underneath which stood birth death individual ticulars written Cyrillic The imaginative these graves visual expression cause death accidents plane crash etcbut peculiarities I other theme graves I And rived early trail pilrims would swell O Muhar Ashura visit there couple folks ciroumambulat pinning coins wishing stone complex After Imam Zade nijht newly acquired suburban abode Kazim Bey Rashit Bey happened equivalent chief police Senti envir landlor Kahraman doing militar service I think fairest maintain impressions ashit suddenly cjarden thrown strode broad quick steady strangers house instantly mine4 iende Still approached Hello still extending keeping revolvet Sir I began We thank hospitality It begun If extent overwhelmed You welcome It anything quests Turkey Tur It difficult determine happened The Turks rolled welcome Now accepted quest there thing Eat luttony drink oblivion It started asually enough usual preparation barbecue diverse salads Rashit brought double special oBally alcoholic I ially oneously assumed Kazim seemingly Zomless remely mulberry spiris elevat experience infamous Chinese whiskey Mau Tay Bot vodka inkin_u compared artier devils I forswore anymore But And light fluid liquid loquacious lashi Bey became Here My Breaking bread anyone breaks bread drinks forever iends Forever Hoop Me ahraman St years Family ender moanings speech perhaps J5 years obese wrong areas drinkin proverbial I anoPher before hearZ second wreck DWI first And oblivion lashi Zook mulber liquid subec ernal iendship meaning e_rit communis opping iminals profi abusing years house garden J presence master black keZeer Kazim Bey Zake I guest profound abiding hhings Turkish Then finally mulber Rashib subecb really wanbed about The Armenians anything demanded where You I alking I clueless My My Four And weapons suppl during deserved hquake We But I You Zomorrow They never I managed sauce cellars Hoop One memory Rashit appearec addit enfor cing5 disbricbs Genci esponsible Chaykenb lovely homes Azeri hihqhlands tokgol several craber bhquake lakes favored Genci crowd which found above series Pioneer summer camps mourbains commie about wilds F3haykenb happened bhree exclusively Armenian lement explosive Kaiabagh remain Azerbaijan following deport abion Azeris Ai menia IgL9 result expulsion Armenians livin Azerbaijan Hut until April dozens A menian families least their managed their homes Chaykent forming Armenian enclave Azerbaijan Karabagh Genci limits It Rashit And course doing And their memory obsessed The Chaykent nevev ashit emained singularly drunk tirae moments cohecence So conversaSion happier topics eternal friendship eaking brothet because broken night before I offer fishing mountains I think enough 8till I hlieve should having chance militiaman thickly cohoots economic esteem Kaim Bey undiminished citique thoroughly committed driving devilish Armenians forever No I egFet moment ashit nasty corrupb hypocritical lying bitch presented another roush Soviet Azerbaijan voweur would think denying himself But hardo times especially subject religion specifically lagellat performed hiibe penibenbs brick being taught youth Aze baijan impor Iranian cleric ashib thought excellent himself another mulht pFoceeded It beaches ashib slurred Me I cannot louse louse No school Decided drink libble wealth I managed aside Let mullahs teach epent Let Teheran ashib confessed eligion recently touched heart would swore telrain drink three following Ashur respecb Husein Land cbions There Azer Refugees A_rmenian Homes I following morning throbbing after snorts mulber miset Few standar vodka admit But ashit Bey duties Chaykent learne collect mountain picnic shores recently opened Gokgol crater oceeded The climb plains esque I Soon flats wheat fields motor wooded backs C haykent Younj Pioneer Camps above Local ladies quick ealize visit families needed heart bread ovens egula flogsins their delicious loaves Ot accout rement eadilw bhose makins luscious piles ucumber hunks spiZZing Zhen ineviZablw liZer 8Zoli lesser cousin usskawa Vodka I 8hiiZe ai5onement Azeri Muslim ende4 summer weekend eveFy weekday Finally passin9 seven Youn9 Pioneer C oache4 uppeF eaches C hayken along babblins river several hundr below Steep alpine sZyle punched hrough canopy grape arbor hunde4 hundred balconies unabashedly raspbe bushes stood ready picked apple swave4 under weight babbling brook tempted What about C Whet Armenian Nesto buger always manaje pleasant beautiful valleys plant villages while Muslims occupy flats below An4 because beaut place I filled overwhelmin sense sadness I Sot ruins closer ction signs reveal emselves 8omet awful occur Admittedly facts I enough uncomfort The Azeris Baku Nahcivan 8enci maintained unsuspect Ar menian eventide really directed against Ot toman Turkey allee4 enocide A menian leade wisdom demanded Kar abash cede4 Azer baijan include4 Armenian bizar anomaly already anomalous U88 An4 decline4 Armenians expellin Azer midst Not easonably esulte4 8chadenfr amens efugees A menia Leninikan thquake December Aze God Wr Hell Bells But Hel Belle appear God Armenians provide means impor amounts weapons deliver under earthquake relief effor Those weapons infilt Kar 2haykent Azeris their homes Such Azer an40onspir F But erstwhile esidents Chaykent really repreerlt Armenian olumn oaches Karabagh Were really supplied helicopt Armenia itself order against legitimate Jt Azeri Ilice Were really orisb bandis merely tlered sucked ionalistic played their ethnic leader Where start where When woman finally No I I simply abancon house father mother efabhes because someone issue esponse No I simply cause bheir ighbs The lovely deserted raised quest without enough information concrebe answers overwhelmincj Jnc edlbly obvious feeling ional nationalism danc_erous world Jne anbiciDatie bloody future aQainst And doesn anticipate round seems iocjical Deme Armenians exact those disposed individuals places C ykenb Jlitic Erivan nonsense first place 8ound sided Palest And refugee Azer moved Ohaykent As I moved around I opped iatted mined hebic group Dave Joe Jane Nancy eally plain folks swept events beyond their understanding onbrol driven houses forced mount passe point middle wintel familiar libany pillage prabion associated efugees ywher point In world hheg_EE Turkish fundamenbal Drisb O_Q nehow deser Me I bunch ducks trying refugee decoy wonderix where Following proceeded drire mountain salmon spawning E aspian salmon I heard befog swore national forest ineffect raffic riers Gokgol Sky Lake A above evidently favorite Kodak point tiven folks waiting smile collection number Fr Gokgol oceeded higher mountains along public stream barbeque seemed burning behind every Bug Rashit special place demanded carry despite growing hunger wanning still seven drive Baku complete Then second obliged abandon favor quickly Fequisibioned police landpoveF conbinued climb tandem ashit Niva wheeler Pidiculously rutted allegedly leading natural mineral spring beyond timber But after misery I pulled guest weight stopped caravan demanding BBQ commence immediately exactly where There revol approval everyone Rashit directed continue collect several gallons prized returning fluid tasted bottled mineral water overnight while brother together bonfire BBQ using breath Rashi I meanwhile paper target little lunch pistol practice sadly embarrassing Rashit discovered leaving great police effectivelw unarmed Finally served Again cheers toasts promises eternal undying friendship having broken bread again surfeit seasoned scorch cooked flesh again slide hosts banter amusin pickled interlocutors again familiar question I doing liste The answer though stroll boulder clogged which provided necessary distance reflection Soviet Azerbaijan being entertained drunken killer radical 8hiit tendencies least logies within spitting distance Karabagh Armenia Tell could One To participate least closely observe culmination years repressed Shiit passion represent 81asnost approved celebration Imam Hussein martyrdom Muharr Azerbaian capital Baku It event I think worth waiting Amonq Mullahs Muharram The reader succinct explanat igins 8hiism other chapters Still those light memory those amazingly oceeded through missive without about Shiite provide following general information Th Shiiah emotional descendants those early Muslims Ali first follower cousin Prophet Muhammad should given Muslim community after Prophet death ramiiy connecZions In event other close ssociates P ophet direct family memtr lowed assume Khal Caliphate first before becoming fourth calle Pious Caliphs Because mosque question succession reopened again results major Muslims along succession strong Damascus Muawiya while dedicated minor cause Ali Hussein qiandson Pr ophet The lauihter latter field Karbal while capital Kufa today souther Iraq In practical terms split Muslims distinct qroups Sunnites adher democr principle consensus within community 8hiites partisans royal family Muhammad Thr oughou cenbur though there plenty overlapping royal family 8unnites point today leaders Arab Ii Sad Ham Hussein Tiktriti Jordan King Hussein Morroco King Hassan claim descent Pro emain mainstr Sunni politicians The irony 8hiiah least found among Ar Muslims If anions Pakistnis Azeri Tur Kazim Bey I finished second 3ttle vodka watching naked Tur flick video burst Dad Kazim Bey named Turan whose folks called Tugut honor Turkish President Mister Ozal You should Whack Nlck I managed chain Ivi Morn ontinued junior massage Kazim Bey looked pride first smiled Grandad 8word crack skull until blood Ashura warmly related Turan Turqut while pouring another Then waking headache nothin Daddy Turan Turqut I It I mullh Kazim troking Me Ran Kazim econd One enouqh cautioned Kazim Aww moaned I Ian chanted Turan Turgut round voice Young Rahan mollified I invited computer prinbe The I leaned returned their nightly catechism lessons local mosque factory mosque design inculcate faith their forefather 8hiite Ilam taught recently imported divine Tabriz Everyone sending their Kazim explained little defenively I asked about Per language leson Qursh memorization classes attended every nighb until eleven reliQion gotten about He seemed pretty confbrt attitude during nitial house third Muhar Kazim slightly taken event returning AM welts their backs Nazila Hanim either young Turan Tur increaingly balking about going Iran study suggested opriat clothing delicate esence sleeveless dresses accustomed teacher women should covered Its going I mysel angement local establishments None particularly beautiful inspiring century const which loSe4 destr 8baiin which taken econ4 Gorby GIasnos5 See minaret asked Kazim brother Farid house painter ofession I chipped I00 Roubles passed rebuild It thank God touring neighborhood looking typical mosque selected Mashbaga Jammi Fr mosque It after clock night Muharram arte4 mosque place after A5 there perhaps devot twice eleven numbered They moustaches beards usually associated pious Islamic practice others looking exactly driver waiters house Daint 8till looked merchants Kazim level bureaucrats udenbs Kahi amari Many black shirts pants Shiibe mourning month atonement those black bands distribut mosque All their mosque evening equivalent vespel context chanting accomnied rhythmic cadence beating their easts their fists Karbala Kar Karbala Kal As devot entered mosque their ablutions prayers gentlemen mosque administr ation chanted passion Imam Hussein begun mission innocence gathered followers across desert there cruelet Yezid Kr Kar Kbala Kabal Th apping highs slappin knees volume Ka Oh Kar Karbala Oh Kar Aain ophone anohe elemen unfoldin Yezid Jdin demanded submission Hussein 4eclined sayins submission alone bless Yezid eaened faithful Hussein eplied Th happed gheir knowin Zhe Karbala Oh Kar Oh Karbala Then mosque opened among phous believers in4ivi4uals Zeacher level eaucrat an4ing inciple assist front bunch cowe4 school children uFbans bless Masht presen Muhar Mul Irar One fairly faced youth whose aine4 cheek above Zo baken iously He disciple clear sonal nosed glaes pepper bear4 whose fun4ament physiognomy familiar FBI Most 4aned posZeF I I somewher befor press somet couldn And I ecognized Zoo The flagellat penit immediat inensifie4 devo3ees abandoning knees Zhishs favor KABALA OH KARBALA KARBALA OH KARBALA The anonymous mullah himself inkin Zapping contentedly watching Zhe flock slowly emselves passion KARBALA OH KARBALA KARBALA OH KARBALA It becoming uncomfor I aske4 Kazim sbrohemoakemeoffoanobhermosque imehe Tu Turgu Rashan Quranic night Here aZmospher charsed hardly subdued Fait Imam Khomeini black Fa Ar scmawled another A windows looking alley ainsZ which I minbar pulpit angle const uobion esent oward Mecca Sadly building former aligned nabur indicaZor Kabaa along walls happily local savanbs Zheir pious sever bunch floor The however seemed oblivious Zo niceties qibla minbal They swayin 4ouble facin other ranging around perhaps beating themselves breast their hands At stood mousey looking youth maybe years dressed black straggly beard ectJng faulty breast beating techniques generally urging young penitents greater feats passion In humbed confiaining iyrics being chanted group dirge 4evot Hussein Karbala Karbala Karbala Karbala Just couple standing inges group complesed their prepatory prayers willed faces Sunnit hDwed plastic placed beBween foreheads prayer Amen unison Then their number corner picked large appeare4 heavy carried Back opened pulled bangle chain On inspect I realized whips multiple metal slashes tachedo wooden handle whistled young companions fon41ing instrument several broke ranks The mullahs Iran played Santa Claus thoughtful erough bring JSe disZibuZion their Soviet Azeri kinsmen The missing The passion Zhe leaders logging whips while devot found themselves bliged their beast greasier blows imitat farbala Kabala Karbala KaFbala I mes3id iazim Tur Turgut reach whips quire His beaF4ed young unblinking gleam fanat icism conveniently slashed shoulder holes tunic naked flesh There moments professional voyeur though But Ashura committed least capture The venue owded cemetery Mashtaga place called Nadir Here unlike Imam Zade sever mosque complexs around general people clawing their alleyways leading complex impossible attempt lesser visitations headed straight There difficult trying ssraight place special crush pious icipate flagellation vicariously experience appzoximate The Muharram A__hu Baku suburb Naian focal point celebr death emotional founder 8hiism Hussein All I anian Sovieh Azerbaian T Golt intet ested answer historical efiect querie Husse Nhy yoursel To remember Hussein To closer Turkey It I Nhab think future Azerbaiian should An Islamic Republic And younger inberlocutors devoutly determined became I sobering Iran crystal cleat ahead obhers Grea Game southern Caucasus winnin hearts minds Azeri Turks The final messa exhortation printed above portrait mullah I Mashtaga mosque HaIka The ranslabion would Muhammad Emin Rasulzade grave No characters language Better Cyrillic godless commies Latin Turkey Satanic Nest Departing Nadiran complex I discarded skull Hicran shawl Thank God I disguise folks initially assumed I Russian obably KGB wandering around snapping pictures fancy Pentax Emotions until Kahraman stepped explain presence running something He cousin Turkey working contemporar Islam Azerbaijan proceeded local 8hiite equivalent C namely imprimatur Hussein father Prophet cousin first follower All himself there hores Caspian Sea within spitting distance Kamra Hanim naphthal sanatorium The sacred place Elinin Ayakhizi Impt_ Ali Foot The scene decidedly sober compared activities cemetery evening spent touring Masht mosques Her hundreds folks waited patiently opportunity enter small cement block cubicle containing I print All embedded stone wedding their indent quietly shedding unhappy prophetic family Those patience would circumambulate structure exterior walls those greatest devotion would outside inside quick water sprayed pious local attendant Ladies additiona pleasure visiting adjacent mesjid distr ibuted Within confines pictur Khomeini qauze Imam behold womenfolk within photoqraphic entation charac known boneless described Hican beinq wither despie miaculous identifiable hands chair pictur None I hasten tanqe bizarre pletho weeping rocks shadows photo optic associated popular Chr belief beyond alist iosity I found primarily significant specifically 8hiite visitations mentioned above occurr within Soviet Union 4isplays eligious passion bnned decades By afternoon Ashura petering adyanbae ocoasion Hanim sanatorium litst since oceede final flagellation festival after Baku mosques devotion expreec Azerbaian Accordingly Shamit Bey eplaced Kahraman escort evening whose night I braffic emenbione arounc dropping Igt Ott style mosque across which maybe significantly planbe nament WWII facing A1 manner folks streaming Dub center stage abtract young whipping themselves Teheran pplied chains while iting passion Hussein Karbaia whack farba Again seveal 4ew3t flagellants donne quasi muscle shirt vestments better diplay Fape backs Desp light mosque aised camez The eponse instanbaneou A Azei suddenly Je whether I mission record holiest event Shamir befor defZly cealZ situation announcing secur I Tur Tur esear chinq Azeri Islam Have spoken Sheikh nequit confessing usherec esence Sir I began especbfully sweating plump robed I scholai Tui They occasion pious epithet Ai I managed bother epeab I sermon I receiv In essence evolve4 arounc Hussein arbala cenbuFies evious bot5om attempts 4ivi4e Sunni Shii As voice aised higher igher casual passersby 4ozen Sheikh raising level voice every arrival until toward shouting point blank God curse those divide cried sheikh eschin distorting features Muslims praise God Amen whispered 8hamir I Amen 8hamir especially feeling uncomforbab seemed little learned continued inter views sheikh masochistic murids decided As Ashura trail Baku Friday mosque Administration afkashian Muslims where 8hamir But arrival crowds already disporsed clean crews sweeping dibrius pious single peripatetic divine readin palms dispensing blessings small regular looking folks willing simony place Shamir friend meanwhile already escort Iranian guests boFder Ashura Full circle The adopted family Mashtaga checked castle Turkestan There privacy allot captain docked I began assessing adventures I attempted account including incidental profound You judge myself I cannot remember experiences True confession I started these notes Bahu I completing shabby apartment Tashkent Yes Ne finally Uzbekisban I initial impression disappointing especially after reception Azerbaijan Aside dramatic exceptions Turkishness appear carry maybe spoiled More point sponsors university increasingly trying 9ouge CNA while deliver nothing return A initial report follow shortly Thomas Goitz Tashkent UzSSR July Received Hanover