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2/1/1993 - Caucasus Note Book: Part One - In Cold And Grim Armenia, A Snow Job by Thomas Goltz

NOT FOR PUBLICATION wm4OUTWRnER SCONSENT INSTITUTEOFCURRENTWORLDAFFAIRS TCG Peter Bird Martin Institute Current World Affairs West Wheelock Street Hanover NH 03755 Fb Thomas Goltz The fields began border dprhe froni ndmrr rugged orested beauty native oeorg_ stopped plateau Armen Now OT s_uotion plateau become desFrate person Bnnnr could conrvw dying Pxten repnr ppmpd confrm detai ountry reduEed hnnrb Eh citizens obliged trees sarvng Ipm Tnrmpr their starving oners We Hp media awakened world threatened catastrophe there petroleum medicinp addition reatr inEnn niants forrpd radio broadcasin_q andhdr npwspaper Acco Red F between O CiOA dieoverhewndpes rprpanddeprrr All blockade Christian Armenia Shiite neighbor Azerbaijan Reeneiy rnnprenrp Armenia capital Yerevan Junior Massachuseut5 F nngressman Kennpdv dhhphd npvprseenrhhLmans ahehemhppnh nwnbyhisArmenanh ndurnnh thery pungent ending hroughnhhospEi orphanages hrefuqep Bak Wi T Of L adinn_ Azerbai mentor T acmep rmmpnnsbiifies aiong regional Im dmrship hmfhmr npinq mammive rmenia suited T _mkey interests Thomas T B3 fpllr dying emerging rppuhiic_ former Sov Car Central Asia Since1925theInstituteofCurrentWorldAffairs theCrane RogersFoundatio hasprovidedlong termfellowshipsto enable outstandingyoungadultstoliveoutsidetheUnitedStatesandwriteaboutinternationalareasandissues Endowed bythelateCharlesR Crane theInstituteisalsosupportedbycontributionsfromlike mindedindividualsand foundations Perhaps axiomatic journalistsand researchers alwaysfindhaeeheyarelookingfor burndifferentw Armenian experience Congressman Kennedy I wonder reality Armenia cynral exanoraed order aeerre pouring sympathy Additionaily there larger question about being Beca lsanMs eoedy starvenn around Yerevan Azeri blockade Armeni Mountainous Nagorno Karabakh condLcting massive successfu offensive Azeris eabinQ_ K ehree weeks virtua territoryos Aerbai3an months The ramifr stunning defea government Baku profound extension letter But Armenia Given extreme circumstances prevail country I oined small caravan 3ourna myself We prepared In addition blankets extra canisters gasoline NIVAandrover WemaMreo paEkrng aweebnnv bread water ourselves Then drove South Georgian apita Tib through bandit rsoJrtry until reaced Armenian froneer pLeces griedmeaeinMrey nmatosaucesr eaendbet wewnd thenweek Then crossed border fields The first object inter T Armni bnrdr cemeery Tp Cr mhtonpq snqpd lburilq evirted place F Armenia Thiswi eFPinn hpraL semnfofthp aiiablp other riipR nnrnm friogprpM pxniiqirnr C O Azeri_ Kurds Armpni P pris__ insis fhat_ firs__ U qhese PlP responsible poqroms_ Sumqi ppnplp innking rrogate virtims Fenl_ TPn homes single_ cemmtey_ ovemb evidence important auouL L hnym__ trees Tnr leaving Inn_ incapable summer shade I appprpd about decimation Y rnrobah weveP tankers parked Sir P BVBFy aEEord pFess Feports raffiE U O statdst Th F But prices rising further frontier At border liter container about gallons roubles about kilometers inland amount roubles In Yerevan prices ranged between Q0 roubles regul_ octane twice price Tib times Baku If almost insanely expensive rrnrding Soviet nricnq_ systpm stopped trair gasoline everywherp avail More importany primp rnghly JuB_riaized_ world One Lnterpretaon_ Armenians being dragged economy prLes oveKnment price above current A sight prrpd ining first gestion heradpd rnphe Armenia medium fhroug deign Armpn nlving bpdpvied formpr nrnblp Repbirs Tt nIvaizin effort Karabakh everyone Ln untryhused tuched I people toued Deember IRRyEn killed partmen daing _1960s crashing OEEL B The hundreds sands virims initially reported quption quakp pffprt pourkng inteKnaf2nna especially reconstruction adequate AI alnng there pvdpu massive project create might termed sfrLcturallv partmenf idinqs_ touch Due difficufip building winter Ipd there visible ivity sites Mo earthquake emerqency icrEoFdinomnfrer0 Armeniawa FsuchMirestr hpgau Azerhijani But Lt BakuhadinLerdpMpnprOvSL pniies L LE Nnr Hmer Civi Thp hptween Armp Ea Georgia trucks AA wheat receney_ ransshipppd Ame company prppnt EOUrrv FhSTb oaMSouth Trns overhichadandtradefrothe smirRep L Bur claim T acfiv partrlpang Azr hInrade Armenia VBrV Thp chocolate cigarettes plethora nther consumer goods stamped Made Turkey wrappers That source providence triangular Georgia Ukraine onfir T miles outside encountered trailer S rkish license plates blown drctn Alfhn position pulled discovered hmanhad drnnped_ InadOci cigarettes AmaretD Yerevan Istanbu another The Armenahadnn beenrducd nsurv v_nq_onsugar Trb chocol rrivd T Vn nnrponyentihen ne_our rooms werpdsfrr rooms canisters vnthesipr hmnnn inhhe We descended inquired manager informed kirhen hoever rrnmmnd known La arrEvd ready rlose nnpdr_ andweereqnnnphoton pdnnnp fnprhnPLS npoinfed_ rooms seated plates bofflp bervLce Ldd almost terhnn T Phenwe z_how fheyman rmenan nernaLanai 4fhnut exdNeration years F living former equivalent aTOUnt Raku ayOTnr Meant generai hnnifiifv_ L thFALF Lhat nfluer On water impor necessary A noveFn Fif L sunnefH C T mrond rmmfaur T L their fnrmer wners Whe pointed several proud owners walking their handsome animals leashes crinnpd shame blamed _loon story edienrs Par rlaiming eninn paragraphs thae_ eerbuted All having abused manner distant editor other agreed study original pronounce guilt innocence Ehrgp qross_ exaqgera__nn reference paths miniml hripd conyr _Jubn material 2ncludng referenrp water ectricty country theeic atribufpd Red Cross deriving biockade The drector F nmmteenhpRed Koss Yerevan pgnKr haLhorganizatnn anythLnq_ number named Jean P _erre Mas_yah Whn questioned proession Eianz waswithayoungSwr nnbrbnfnrthe liaison Karabak Hewasnpr gbark aside perind shelling Stepanakert Yerpvn innmanvwv T erewconstantp Fm grind J opters nroundpd _ainment An H C_ manaq tricity wgenP The hnmpitals Yerevan rMrrga mediEines antihero FnrM P P F M P O I F mainlympty hmnmoo T T Papayan waited every Turkey break blockade apparently unaware snack specialzng usual chocolates cigarettes drinks impnrted urbey paienf lounge A similar state affairs prevailed another ciini visited responsible health employees factories Yerevan indusriai seven which chemica One these Narit Chemical 1ged_y argesf producer resins former fime_ rmenian Movemenf produced Narlt Troniaily Green Movemene CommLttee whLch impetus urrent nzeYmhan E Azeri Erabakh embargo whLch Insure Ars enias industrial factor inluding Nar parks Dr Fmi J pechwerr hnhffdnnly byktoncrewsdue hnrtage pecurcty plpment common problem But dirprerr ncenn lkewithhu nrreofnp rrp_hpve rFLSLm Fmm Yn ininn Armenia manufacturing industrial Rnv inuegr world economy None LLpntssufferedrn antofr_ beinq_ lowed provi L dounced dppip KiS jmmb_ Armenia F essitpd reactvat country indubtFy proviH Yerevan flight O L A T terin lndafterth actra maketheideaofr Tr closer fhjthWMown EveF We sought interview director A western diplomat Yerevan closely monitoring plant though concrete information dlrector scientist regarded reactor P P Tplf there would another earthquake anytime Ofhprs suggf fhprp manipuitOF madnp Ter Pptrosyan turning Metsmnr IEne tanamnn maiiing Turkey supplyi Armenia power addition eprririy Yerevan receive dproyng T electricity T Rose hroadrts front npenlyrpTirbpyn MnQndhpnQ_hp supply AKmpri Meanwhile Armpnia ilpnlyin Tiirbpyk medicines This Mvlnpmn F fiFst_ former uross Turkish Trnrfpr A weekly ninakan T F M hlrkets iliggipd S CICi Turkey The rurity foFmer KGB border nkenbr T Foniec V ppreher SCi _nterd4r export mrgency interdic rnnir Yerevan addluloF J maria U CaCtS F grown RF V Li IPq flesh Et npninq I The Yereran rrnMn could USdai P PcTiOF P C S carrots other tuber tangerines winter In starving The about trees having hacked desperate residents false least gross exaggeration Trees outskirts families lived individual Yerevan structure preserved trees boulevards parks ithout installing burning stove replete stovepipe fifth floor window apartment dwellers chopping buying thnse A cursory protruding_ apartment blocks ggesd apartments equipped probably Cooking another matter Most ovens stoves Armenia natural Turkmen Eazabhstan passed Azerhijan Aze lines Armen Annt marne thrngh eorga individuals Aeri pnrgLa abntaginQ Thp result resorted tubedgor without drink The imnated exmeeding diffir unless waipd between clock mnrnn9 EameonandeEouldboi Frm Tp alternativewto sreets U OG cigarpp burnLng stove Eo there operating generators butane It first refugees Baku atractive woman Her sense aithough hbasemen salonandark andbik9hf where tables ended where chairs Accordingly transla perched ourselves offip Lena several friend werei boutthe Engdownnrees theknf andthnt hnrrihlp horrblp Len And blockade What experf asked named This first _nterln Tn mpanh Ip pxpec pnpmv condUCt 9Lenas rppnnsp different Karahabh Iv_ T They kinns fhprp fhpri Inev M This warily M How T asbed Ebe Because there vacations From No looking I idiot From Baku Really I Said leave everyone You happy gotten I suggested Happy Here Lena almost wailed We everything there It international Armenians Azeris Jews everyone And J I chance Maybe believe I speak better Azeri Armenian decided changed languages M I asked Azeri replied little dumbfounded And amazement characters sitting around office launched conversaeion about about driion nding nrnmnO introduce friends would Armenian woman married Azeri I En about decided discrete Yerevan opposed Baku This dynamite because however ridcu nationalists Armenian claim Armenians haveI Azerbaijan Azeris demon Armenians expelled Azeris Here evidence contrary But returned appointed r_hanqed_ I9 casual encounters prnductve offica official interviews meetings mixed The first these efficient Das hnaksutiun genlman The agency natural oreign corresponden becau setprovided abattery1computersahdsatei transmission quick informatior nstartncnmQarthDhnakn ivlenf Azerha anxcn lnr_al T anyfng Mnha_ Zpri hropd tpnminn ihthey three The Dasbnak fices packard Ac Hiffprenl nninL Of ArEeniaofTigrare5fhprpat ahrdiwhoopnraF 4ilii J_ Vini Jr medipvl Armenia K Crusader Armenia Cilir describig rmenian dgnedfn ehadhr PM L OF enawh Lhird righf idhdtachd Karahakh Tn Keco L former Armenia today Repubtic within Soviet frontiers The Dashnaks bones about where potitica hearts Now detailed history Dashnaks People write polemical books subject But essential profile would probably heIpfuI Founded Armenia exist Dashnaks alternatively cooperated rebelled against Sultan Czar depending which approach would secure greater gains ultimate achieving independent state lands nominaIty betonging Ottoman Russian empirp It Dashnaks Armpn partisan separatist resistance Ottoman East during World War insLruaenta setflng shorf Ived Armenian Republic Nt surprisin sheviks Dashnaks represented burgeEie Armenian nainal2sm andrh definEt2n ppsed Sviet Enternatina Acnrdiny Dashnaks became visible resonan mmunist opposition group Armenian diaspora TO Bu Eo1a rpturn Armenia mixture nation Tep2ng Tnsed Erh ppnrt Armenia before today Dashnaks would capture Of Fhe seats En ieqislature L889 nllpr T lnqq_ zrrTpr Frr quite clear CalzfoFna Rafi Hovanisyan Chat Dshnn ArmenLan President Ter Petrosyars ArmenLan Nati J Movement L aithoug ratinn adding Ter F etrnqyan personal popularity hovers around regar Ter Ppfrosyan opportun Armenia zftle political Tub_ire Nfher qnirh Tiirfhprrriqn Tpr Ppfi L fherr crimp being KGB agent father critics Jit PF Ptrnvn pparpr thifnnniifrusn theory ggests arhkh contin innpr hpHpd Armenian thing Tp F pYrosyan rrson EomrrandeK calted Lachin Corridor Karabakh Harlki_an presidential elections brought Ter Petrosyan power rigged Ter Petrosyan using securit apparatus sustain autocramic class communist fashion In recent protest Harikian organized demonstration rpported attended 100000 people The almost dissuaded attacking presidential building intervention Harikian cohorts UNSD We briefly demonstration Opera SqLare Congressman Joseph Kennedy presumably staged visiting Congressman evprb Tpr Pptrosb speab country Althmugh large F gathered Ln fallng crowd intensely Harikian In dditin reitera positimn Karabakh muppmrd Righ Self rminatinr remognitimn RepLbir Mountainous Karabakh F st_te speech igning Ter Petrmmyan accusing diverse replanq autocr presidency Sov Ls prnbabiy smpie replac2 Prsyan But Hat Ter Petrny everybody happyhh demonqer disgruntled fLndamenets Armenian around banner vestmeneO desEerl Karh Nr deeILned enken Eapgorv rMemnp GodandtheN dhimetdothe former theysay hasgivenexrlytmpressconfe encesice election President Far Defence although onehr mnder their worth despite ruing eviden Armenians arbakh inciir adman MeLes troop Armenia Terely irterd bserve _rabakh Deen F J I hppnishlv AFt Lng Defense contr L2 Dooliyan allowed there might foreign soldiers theater Armenia itself solicited specia other republir Commonwealth Independen build Armenian Karabakhians might similar policy Lting forein soldiers The Azeris doing pilots Ukrainian other aRohad aptured after their panes Karabakh A total Azer aircraft brought first weeks identity other pilots known either subsequent crash prachuted lines A French ournais spends dpmrribed captive after lured protpred Eagp rockp Azeris picking their radio signals rommander tormed raged Stepanak dppite rppptpd Fg Lhe their planes mission N D oliyan sressed again thpre A involved fighting Nr Defense Ministry involved FiL nieum suppl faFmhkh My F vision equipment communicainns which vital David vprqq Goliath Armenan againf numerically pprnr Ap Karh independent state equipment purrhased international marKe Monated The AMD asapy nprafprtfpph Azerbai DooI hargpd currently Ti comparisr nrmnr several A territorial enclaves Armenm L implv IF Inn AF AFTeF proper Arm D Frppd territorial hitions ErdsRpph decl_ Zoroarimn further Apri Sevan Armen Hrmen efprtivply I recen pprtar arginhy heErhkhfur rYhrr movpm againe Armpnim M survival Jntrpri inglv_ rejer would Azerbaijan legally Mountainous Karabakh corridor Armenia exchange Zangez which would connect Azer territory Nakhjivan mainland Azerbaijar This impossible Dooliyan possible solution because hrrdr Iran It would solution Azerbaijan would connect Azeris Turkey The A compromise confl nrlpenrl Noun Karaba Th leadtgoodrei_a_onisbefween_ threestaf We meefing abouf future really better nterviews There other meetings mnnrf rprfir general picturem Yerevan reason country found itself unrnmfrfh affairs because pursuing neighboring tradLtiona transporf energy arerip exaEfiy reasonable expect Azerhai LSLai Armenia OFn again I pressed interl utors finally admZt warth As penrjing catastrophe blackd mosf_alsoshyly_dffmdthathyodfh propaganda abroad L Amazing certaLn American offiri involved Ln Discrete sources U emhqy Yerevan three daycnnverqm ionin U S rpdto EonvinEe AYTiiii government OT rnntar cmmunLr desEgr Soviet Fep section Unifed istance under other A other assistance under Tif V Act Government Azerbaian President determines Congress Govrn T A takin demnstrab steps other nffnive Armenia N Er The rider pffecfive nprfnrmpd influerrp definitnn constif offensive Mountainous modify Karabakh instead Russian adjective Nagorno Perhaps should least misnomer enclave wording This fuzziness effort exemplified Congressman Joseph Kennedy visit Yerevan It without saying hosts Armenian Assembly America Mafia Restaurant Hospital Clinic meeting refugees Baku Lena coffee And thing wanted omote I whatever deprivations Armenia experiencing result territorial ambitions nighborng TF Azer bokade embargn Armenia directly connected Yerevan participation promotion Karabakh Ihnghttinapnrnnrte Congressman Kennedy during course party press conference Armenian Assembly freezing rooms Ministry Agriculture I intended Baku other No there Hi Te Yerevan rinwprPt vexepLinn pprhaps ithad nmphi constituents Waterton Mass Then I asked personal question T Douq ennev Vilr hrnther FF I OOLtOie anwpred onqrpmn SOr O Ping cider hrohers rpprvp M younoeYihinqs Whydoyousk Hp hnlip reqard fArfl I rnnfiilnn Sure iKenF N trimsomeprettyilH about Then cocktail party broke er7dv rrompanyng A nrpgnn ipntb eFimhFtxoverotheM EaU ureoF steak kebabs Eaviar nevitably A T Dnr RedCrn Among Oi trench Red Cross companin drank sixth floor rmenia Mrab clean tryEng assess experience Giumri there Soviet style apartment buildings tumbling pleasant single storey stone ctures owned individuals along century public buildings downtown mostly survived unscathed Everyone shouldn build higher tories thegovernmentdimanyways dUitaSDavvn construction engineer His father owned Turkey supplied ommission which stopped coffee Nuake survvors onversation house After fortifying ourselves hospitality ognaE proceeded downtown Despite rppairs surviving buIdngs Giumra oretty depresdn_ place The roads lined stumps advertised uecimation Yervan parks levards seekers exageration enough At least trees chopped second locbed doomed inter wasout kdssawed upper branchesof thereman nntrp whilddndolderbrotherbhacbpMav depor rewslowed repair H requisfe machines A mechaniE reman E ableffrfhi5 howevF remetery dedicfed Q T hadrnf Tur bishMof Trot tieratfh isfpninr fnfhrnnanLMr airplanes anding story hpreasiI Rnvipfnionfhpn andviqre iournal BU LJ driving bound Lhe fFoniier renamed Rumri noeher F O budge Llrii Lii Of V Fig rirfformri appointed pushing meters G throug ieids arrived again Spitak Nor The forEsf cheered L L ppfrn tnkerm lined rheck L L bandit suthern 3eoFgi mafia terina Tihl apart Rqiars SLEhLmi rtasfrnnhic Zrn Lri Fe moriths water brought No riing asJkL beeause hrinQ Fhruary Leeived Hanover Marh29 Upper scavengers outside btumr Leninkan L_owec Left Alfr Pork Chop stand Lower Right Row snack