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2/1/2000 - Muribeca: The Making of a CD Cover and other Stories by Tyrone L. Turner

Muribeca The Making CD Coverand Other Stories February JUAZEIRO DO NORTE Cear Brazil PeterMartin Executive Director Institute ofCurrentWorldAffairs FourWestWheelockStreet HanoverNH 03755 Dear Peter TheBR 101highwayheadingsouthfromRecifepassesthesuburbanclus townofPrazeres afterwhichthere isanexitforMuribeca TheBRdesig nates Brazilian federal highway should stand Big Ravines cause impassability stretches The turnoff crammed mechanics shops overflowing bodies spare parts small groceries roadsidebeer stands The commercial congestion drops quickly reveal brick smokestackofEngenhoMuribeca theMuribecasugarmill andthelands Thirteen oldRodrigoscans thetrashoftheMuribecamunicipalgarbagedump foraluminumcansasvulturesdry theirwings thebackground Hesaidthathe reais weekly about U S minimum salary reais month about U S With money helped householdexpensesas wellasboughtthingsforhimself However becauseof working school years could write oncebelongedto Once wavesofsugarcanedomi nated horizon Now square patches marksites forfutureapartmentsandgas stations The surrounding hills being eaten being scraped loaded trucks construction landfill It amounts leveling Recife periphery redistribution hillscomedownandbuildings The Muribeca hardly positive estate world though That sbecause beyond ruins engenho beyond terveningfavela isanever growingmountainoftrash When Muribeca mentioned municipal bagedumpiswhattheyaretalkingabout When I visited Nicaragua after Sandinistas stepped international tentionhadfallenawayfromthe strugglingcountry I wenttoManagua trash deposit Afriend tookmeto people lived worked there cious competition basic elements glass paper plastic thattherestofsocietyhaddiscarded feltsorryforthem apopulationofpoorsouls women children literally scraping bottom thehumanbarrel survive Theysawthemselves honest workers choosing fields trash their families rather thanbeg steal Comingto Brazil Iknewthat similar sceneswere repeatedacross itslandscape AccordingtoUNICEF Top Ayoungboystepsthroughpilesoftrashonhisway lookformorealuminumcans Above Aneight oldboy helps hismotherbycarryingsacksofcansfromwhereshe pickingthemoutofthetrash theirholdingplace TLT 88percentofBrazil citieshadopentrashdumps Insome ofthesedumps halfofworkforcewerechildren When I arrived Recife Muribeca popped I talked different people aboutchildlabor Iwantedtovisitthedump Ihadin Manag document happening My freelance sociologist friend AndreVasconcellos offered tohelpmevisitthe Itwasabout3 clock inthe afternoononabeautiful Sunday Andre rolled silver Fiat Devot0sdoOdio HateDevotees abandfromtheAltoJosd doPinhoneighborhoodinRecife stickerinthebackwindow Our friend Massacre Faces Suburbio Faces Suburb Alto Josd Pinho frontpassenger seatdeckedhead inchicsurfer grungewearprovided freebyoneofthe sponsorsofhisband MywifeSusanand Ijumpedinto thebackwith ourcamerabags andwewereon ourway I Massacre spresencemuchthought thatheseemedtoknowhowto gettoMuribecabet terthanAndre Werolledalong itwasn tuntilwe stopped roadside stand ruins Muribeca engenho Massacre sprang question Hey ifyouguysgetsomegoodpictures canItake atthemfor possible cover forournextCD Wenoddedpositively Istarted tellinghim about difference between journalistic commer picture Injournalism whenphotograph inapublic place intheUnited States Iusually needapprovalfromthepeopleinthepicture ifitwasto bepublished inamagazine ornewspaper However subject usually I there I taskthepermissionofthesubject Andiftheysaid Iusuallyputdownthecamera Using photograph commercial different To product photo whether image label advertising person With pacifier mouth oldAdriana covers rainstorm moves Muribeca Adrianaandfiveyoungbrothersandsisters agesseven thirteen helped theirmother Maria herworkatthedump Sincethefamilylivedoveranhouraway inCabo Pernambuco theywouldsleep tentatthedumpfromMonday toSaturday Sincethestartofthe bolsaescola schoolstipend Maria stopped bringing children instead putting school TheBraziliannon governmental organization Misso Criana Chilld Mission estimates childrenworkin garbage dumps across Brazil Institute ofCurrentWorld Affairs Acrowdofmenandteenagersfollowabulldozerthat isspreadingoutthepilesoftrash picking valuable materials uncovered photo release authorizing In minor guardians minor authorize usage Soonwecould theimmensemoundofMuribeca rising above distance Thick black smokebillowedfromoneside Vulturescircledinthe The glinted offpiles refuse Wefollowed signs entranceand turned ofthemainroad Andremarveledatthenine footbarbed wirefence circlingthedump theblue uniformedguards posted large trancethatwewererollingupto Thelasttimehehadbeento Muribeca almost years before system ofcontrolexisted nofences noguards tehouse Aguardapproached Fiat Obviously weweren there todoanyunloading Andre slipped winning Brazilian jeitinho manner where pretty withasmileandsomesmall Establishingapersonal relationship person authority tobend inganyrules Como How going everything Andrelaughinglysaidleaningout ofthewindow He mentioned something about theguard askedwhywewere going thedump We doingsome researchandwejustwanted people working pliedAndr6 Like looking drugs weapons sweptthroughthe spottingtheAndr6 scamerabag between Susan Do cameras withyou Theyoungmanwenton thatacouple ofmonthsago aGermanTVcrewhaddone report about children working Muribeca andnow filming authorized municipal authorities Iwasflabbergasted I tstruckmethatthewaythey weredealingwiththeproblemofchildlaborinMuribeca wasnotbygettingthekidsoutofthere Itwasbykeep those could problems That whatthebarbedwireandthegateswere nottopre ventkids fromsneaking inandworking there Furthermore wanted write aboutwhatwasinMuribeca ifweweregoingto shootpicturesof Itaffirmedthepowerofimages whatneeded controlledwas notwhatpeople orheard butwhatthey Andre maneuvered deftly saying TIT broughthiscameraalong Hehanded itover Hesmiled asked With Susanand Iscootedourowncamerabagsfartherunder seats Theguardnodded steppedbackandletus Fromthe dirtroad forked intwo directions thatledaround thesamedumpingarea Wetook forkinstead offollowing directlybehindthe churn ingtrucksontheirwayto offarea Proximity garbageproduced horrible stench thatbrought tasteofbiletomythroat Itwasaveritablemountainof garbage baking under brutal refuse lionpeople forwhombasic sanitationwas luxury Cresting ridge wecould seemoreclearly The highest roughly football fields already capped covered theMississippi redmudcommontothe Pipespoked fromthegroundwhere firesburned offexcessmethane produced decomposition trash As Andre explained these weren there gases would mulate mountain garbage would eventually explode That covered field surrounded three Left Agroup ofyoung girls relax makeshift thegarbage offpointin theMuribeca This where their families sleep passing night Below Young ofthe overnight tents sides equally large lower areas uncovered trash Only however active Twenty hours trucks arrived leave theirs contents The people worked setupwoodenshackswithblackplasticforroofs terfrom thebrutal sleep night For there seemed three options Young menwrestledforthepickoffreshdepositsastheyspilled theback trucks Othershugged theback Cat erpillarbulldozers thatspread thetrashoverthe surface Above Isabel picks through garbage brother Izake center helps Right Ayoung plays aluminum mother picked ofthe trash Manyofthe mothers bring their children dumpfor ofchildcare Muribeca daycare center butmanydonot likeleaving their children there because rumors ofpoor Theywould anything unearthed machines The fanned sacks stooping leftovers anything Andr6stopped close largestconcentra ofworkers Wary guards keepingwatch camera behind wandered wherepeoplewere stuffingaluminumcans intobags Aswewalkedamongthetrashcollectors Iwondered whyAndreandMassacrewereso silent Myinstinctive TLT responsewastoacknowledgetheeyesstaringatme withthedumpandtentsinthebackground Ididn tlike sayhello EvenwithmyaccentedPortuguese itseemed thecompositionterriblymuch andchangedpositions theonlywaytobridgethegapofunknowingandthreat untilIfoundsomethingacceptable Inthebackofmy eningsilencebetweenstrangers ButAndreandMassa wasplanningtoreturnto really photograph credidn tspeak IespeciallyfoundMassacre shesitation theseandtheotherchildren Susan AndreandMassacre baffling givenhisupbringinginapoorerworking class keptalook outforguardsincasetheysawwhatwewere neighborhood music whose lyrics speak doing reality somanypoor mostlyblackyouthfrom theviolentneighborhoodsringingthe Perhapsbe Finishing IpromptedMassacretofindtheirparents Recifenses felttoo close tohowtheir citizenswere living I quicklydecided photographs afternoon people pictures another However Massacre asked shoot something He couchand asking three standingnearby couch I agreed shoot permission first In monthsthatfollowed Iwouldregretthatslip framed Ronaldo Rodrigo Jaqueline golden light afternoon They saton couch looking Top PatriciadaConcei4o holdsherfour month oldbrother Jefferson theirhomein theMuribeca Invasion favela Patriciaused tohelphermotherworkin thedump leftbecauseoftheviolence Shestayshome tocareforher twoyoungbrotherswhilehermotherworks thedump Becauseofherroleasa caregiver shehasnotattendedschoolfor overa Above WhilehisauntNildaworks thedump Rodrigo sweepsouttheyardofherhouse wherehe presently lives Thefa milydog hiszeal toprotect thefamily wanted takeapieceoutofthevisitingphotographer NowthatRodrigoreceives bolsaescola scholstipend money hedoesn thave toworkin thedumpanymore returning school Pointingtoatentashortdistanceaway littlecrowd walked andweintroducedourselves toSeverina Ronaldo smother Massacreexplainedthepurposeofthe photo thatitmightbeused aCDcoverfor theirband Though younger people around heard really their music Severina noddedaffirmatively Itookdownheraddress Wewalkedaroundabit Ishotonlyafewmore pictures Walkingbacktothe bothAndreandMas sacre excited about possibilities picture ofthe three onthe couch Getting Muribeca proved harder wethought Wetooka spinaround coveredpart thedumpto afavela nestled hillside nearby Continuing outward wetried ifthe roads another future reference maybe guarded On small throughs Andre broughtthe ahaltinfrontofwhatseemedawet muddy stretch Susanseemedsure thatwecouldpass Andre accelerated enough force downsecurely With Andre wheel Susan I stepped front Massacre designer tennis shoes opted theback amuchcleaner propo sition We rocked compared sonal clothingdamage Susanand Ilost With Fiat looking world muddiedcross country racer wedescended gates gotAndre camera andwenthome The picture kidswas hitwithAndre Massa producer Faces CD Universal Music Theywanted picture cover subse quently hired shoot pictures their Recife neighborhood Alto Jose Pinho I enjoyed involved project learningmore about musicalmovementattheAlto However ofwrit tenreleasesfromtheparentsofthekidsatMuribeca still leftusopentolawsuits ifthephotowereused FivemonthspassedduringwhichIbecameinvolved documenting lives addicted street Recife InSeptember Massacrestarted callingmeabout getting releases returning their parents We delay meant therewas chance ofnot finding anyone OntheMondayafternoon thatwefinally started search gettingthroughthefrontgatewaseasier Strangely In theMuribeca Invasion favela childrenplayon thehalf builtbrickwallsofahouseunderconstruction See TLT formore aboutAlto Josd Pinho TLT The photo started From right Rodrigo Jaqueline Ronaldo anoldcouchinthemiddleofMuribeca This isthepicturethatUniversalchoseastheCDcover guards approached waved through teenage lounging small They grasped Climbingthehill Irealizedthatthelandscapehad atthephotoa ndaskedwhowewere Massacresaidthat changed Theactiveareawasmuchhigherandbuilt hewasfrom FacesdoSuburbio andthattheymightuse theshackshadbeenmovedtodifferentlocations Wegot thepicforaCD Thekidssatup theirfacesbrightened outofthecarandwalkedaroundlikepoliceinvestiga Suddenlytheyhadarealcelebrityinfrontofthem The photoinhand askingifanyoneknewthewhere dambroke noweveryoneknewwherethekidsinthe aboutsofRonaldo RodrigoandJaqueline Peopletreated photolived likewewerecops nothing That isRodrigo HisauntisNilda Theylivedown Gettingnowhere westartedtalkingtoonegroupof intheInvasion saidoneboymunchingonapackageof Mercia holds breakfrom working Muribeca A residentofthe Invasion favela Mercia toldme lastyearshewasrapedat gunpoint worked night She authoritiesforfear ofreprisal Rodrigo stands beforeamoundoftrashin thegarbagedump Thoughhe doesn there order thefamily cookieshehadfoundnearby Crumbsfellfromhisgrimy fingers pointedbacktowards Recife The Invasion everyone called favela MuribecaJardim wasonlysixyearsold feltnew It stretched about along heading andwas about Belying feeling Invasion small brick houses various stages completion orderly blocks along unpaved streets least until veryback where patternbroke Electrical wires lined streets andpublicphones corners Oursearchroutinerepeated itselfintheInvasion We parkedthecarontheedge startedwalking Aswe showedthepicturearound westillweremetwithempty looks Westarted askforNilda andthatgotsome positive response However allweredead As wepenetrateddeeperintheneighborhood Ihadafeel thatwewouldnotbe successfulonthis first The shadowsweregetting longer ghtmoregolden prettysoonwewouldhave Aswetalked tooneperson shesaidsheknewwhere someofthegarbagedumpfamilieslived intheInvasion She pointed reaches directions finished telling around Quem Roma Literally Who mouth Rome which means If tions toyour destination laughed Massacre flash silver capped tooth This rememberaswetroopedalongunnamedstreetsandpast unnumbered dwellings residents poking their heads passers Unexpectedly wecameuponamakeshiftsoccerfield built theback before dropped swampylowland andfinally smallpolluted river Massacre suddenly screamed toward group posts remarkably recognizing Rodrigo hisback partially turned toward Wehad found Rome Even photo I little difficulty recog nizing Rodri He remembered immediately shook hands electric smile Weasked about Ronaldo Jaqueline Rodrigo livedinthesamearea thattalkingtothemwouldbeeasy We gather other their families They simply appeared spread TLT arrival Severina Ronaldo mother invited everyone crowd fenced front porch their tingonthe couchand chairs This covered spacewasactuallywhereSeverinaandherhusbandhad runasoupprogramfor152childrenoftheInvasion They receivedmoneyfor materials themu nicipal government cooked their stove serveda dailylunch Unfortunately thatassistancehadbeen offmonths earlier withoutanypromise ofrenewal Massacre began explain wanted photo required Authorization problem With excited about theirpictureonthe cover ofaCD theparents agreed immediately Theproble completing written authoriza tions Asimple JohnHancock wouldn The entsneeded tohave identitypapers Andtheir signature hadtobefiledwiththelocalcartorio Thatway thesig naturewouldbelegallyon incaseanyonedisputed authorizations Luckily Ronaldoandhisparentshad their identity papers order In trust allowedMassacreandmetotake theirdocumentsso wecould register signatures following RodrigoandJaqueline authorizations onthe other tookabouttwoweeksto clearup Rodrigo smother kickedhim ofherhouse years before aunts Nilda Fatima taken Though nothing official registered acted guardian Rodrigo didnothave identitypapers Fatima Jaqueline mother agreed Jaqueline document stolen Fatima identity process getting papers Jaqueline WebroughtFatima figuring theycouldregisterthesignatureifthepersonwasinfront Unfortunately blank faced young clerk toldus thatwasnotpossiblewithoutheridentitypapers To Fatima papers wehad director ofthe garbagedump daycare center awoman known Dona Fatima Being vague about purpose needing Fatima ID papers judge becauseweweren tsupposedtohavebeeninthedump shooting pictures begin Dona Fatima promise shewouldget thepapersbackintwo Two later Dona Fatima still Fatima document return again finally pickthemup InthemeantimewelearnedthatFatimawas illiter Thoughwehadherpapers whichhadaphotoonit westillhadtobringherphysicallytothe cartorio toprove documentbelonged correct person In wepressed herthumb inkpadand paper clerkwitnessed Finally ordealwas Afterstraighteningoutthe releases Ibeganretur document child labor Muribeca garbage Fortransportationandashelp Ihiredmytaxi driver friend Loinha bright eyedmanwhocould strikeupaconversationwithawall Ifanyoneenoughjeitinho distracttheguardswithsome talltales itwouldbeLoinha Thefirsttime returnedwasatsixo clockonaSat urday morning light peeked through cloudsbuilding amorningrain Loinhawavedto guards Muribeca shouted thing thatmade laugh which their earlymorn trick We proceeded through climbedthenow familiar hillandhepulledhis redFiatstationwagonneartheunloadingarea This wasno discreet entrance Igotoutandstartingphotographing movingamong shadowy figures clouds swept maining light The misty drops turned torrent rainjust Ispottedaneight girlpickingatop trashpile awhitepacifierstuckinhermouth Shepulled asheetofcardboardoverherhead thepacifier asprotection Iwassoakedtothebone Looking cover three young offered under their cardboard shelter Duting downpour Iaskedif Icouldshootapicture ofthem One smiled cryptically Yeah thepermissionofthe chefeurubu theheadvulture Ithoughthemightmeanaguyinchargethat Ihad foolishlyoverlooked HeknewIdidn tunderstand pointed arowofblackvulturesperched ridge In planation thatthere saying thatbefore person matterwhat couldwork hadto getthepermissionofthe chefe urubu Theylaughed Iloggedinmyfirstexperiencewithdumphumor FromthecomedianIalsolearnedthattheywelcomed asuncomfortable itmightbe Waterloggedpapertilts thescalesquiteabitmore andtheygotpaidbyweight After clouds broke brutal heated fallen water clingy vapor Photographicallycrippledbytherainandsteam I letthe scene aroundmesink Within htwere about andyoung teenagers somewith parents ghastly mounds One plump eight carried sacks ofaluminumcansfromwherehis mother slaved their collection He point ripping packaging ofsome crackers found trash crumbs spilling sootyblack shirt An11 girlsatagainstabro bicycle wearied morning hands Severalothersmallboysplayedhide seekon discarded furniture their mother separated sellable paperfromworthless Hardly place human being child inhospitable surroundingswashometomany They slept worked played there Though garbage daycare center themothersentrustedthecenterwiththeirchildren Some adult entered center rooms andsometimeswalkedaroundnakedorpartially dressed Other mothers responded opposite point wanting children because daycare center ingbutplay wandered bulldozers heard someone screaming version Fatima mother Jaqueline Rodrigo approached filled sackofaluminumcansoverhershoulder Idon tknow I would recognized darkness grime shadow against She Rodrigo spent night there going toworkthroughSundaymorning The operated hours families Iknew Withfewerpeopleworkingatnight there trash person money could Since illuminated workers carried flashlights darkness In Fatima explained onceshe started toworkitwasfoolishto stopand sleep Hercollectedtrashhadtobeguarded SheandRodrigo vigilant through night thieveswould garbage These robbers silent footed types thatmadeoffundetectedwith valuablemetalsandcard board As explained sometimesmenwithgunsbra zenlywalkedup themiddle night Violence common conversation among friendswhoworkedinMuribeca Thereare alltypesof peoplehere murderers drugdealers escaped convicts Fatima Armed assaults regularly place night butsometimes inbroad daylight Youhavetohavecouragebecausethereissomuchdan gerinthere Rodrigoadmitted Mosttalkedaboutthis goingin iftheyweredescribingabattle Everyonehad stories ofthings thathadhappenedto personally second rumors As Mercia young mother Invasion wrapped around confided events night months before Two walked herwith agunandraped Shewas alone could nothing She didnot authorities After Loinha I Muribeca after Satur morning session photography murdered Fatimawarnedmeaboutreturningsincemany knewIh adcameras andwere ficandodeolho theywere casing She recounted experience I hadwhereamanbecameangrybecause Iwouldn tgive money I understood thing mutteredbeforehewalked Fatimahadheard According themansaidhe would abullet She thatthe IknewfromtheInvasionfeared formysafety Worstofall Fatima saidthatifsomethinghappenedthey couldn anything defend Retribu tionwouldbeworseforthem iftheydid Whetherthey liked returning working inMuribeca order survive Rodrigo Ronaldo Jaquelineswore tomeonedaywhen IwasintheInva All theneighborhoodknewthis He child Muribeca Rodrigo mother Neida dispelled rumor However whenhewas eightmonths shebeganbringinghim tothedump nothavinganyotherdaycare options When hewas 11heleftschoolandstartedworkinginthedum With brief period schooling beenin thedumpever since At hewas veteran His mother kicked Rodrigo shrugged shoulders accepted theblame Yethismessagewasmixed hesaidhewas broughtupbadly thathe twantto listen anything Neida When things wantedtohitme hesaid andhewouldrunawayfromher Rodrigo sauntsalsomentionedsomethingaboutNeidasell bicycle Rodrigo bought money earned Hismotherfinallyputhimout ofthehouse aunts assumed guardianship When I talked lived Nilda three ofherown through With sparkle sunburn bridge ofhisnose thatonanotherboymighthavemeant beach soccer field shirtless Rodrigo continued catando collecting minumcans Hisglovedhandrestedontheframeofthemon strousbulldozerthatchurnedupnewtreasuresas piles trash His splashed white tennis shoes treadadangerousmixture fetidfood brokenglass plastic industrial hospital wastes The possibilities being getting increase nentiallyjustbywalkingthrough Muribeca gates Rodrigo eagle spotting His earnings He claims reais aboutU S 23weekly asmuchormorethanamini mumsalary reaispermonth oraboutU S With thatmoneyhecouldhelp hisauntwiththeexpensesof thehousehold Orhecouldbuyhimselfapair ofjeans TLT shirt Though enjoy liked economicpowerthat itgavehim Whathe suffered though educa thatwouldallowhima choice futurebesides thedump Sincehewasten hehadhad onlyone school Even admitted interested soccer Asaresult thisboywhowouldturn14inApril illiterate At recognized letters alphabet The I visited Invasion things changed dramatically The families finally receiv bolsa escola school stipend thatthe authorities promising months The reais month U S child between seven compensate families pulling childrenout ofthedangerousworkinthegarbagedump keepingthemin school It seemed working Sitting outside Nilda shome Rodrigotoldmethatbecauseofthe bolsa hehadalreadystoppedworkinginthedumpandwould soonreturn school In Nildahadthree childrenbe sideshernephewthatnolongeraccompaniedhertowork inMuribecabecause ofthe financial Shepointed ofbricks front ofherwoodenshackand declared first month bolsa escola money To Rodrigo garbage complicated It because children should school It children wanted Muribeca You there family According would better mornings studied afternoons worked As Rodrigomused aboutgoingback school andhis future Iwanttobe worker whatever Anythingbutadrugdealer sniffer orrobber The other youths I originally photo graphed Ronaldo Jaqueline receivethe bolsa escola buthadquitworkinginthedump anyway Jaqueline leftbecauseofpersistentrespira problems doctors needs operation cataracts In spite health problems sheplanned continue schoolwork Ronaldo wasexcited thathehadrecentlypassed grade level Recently landed timejob thatwouldnot interferewith school Hehelped amanwhoboughtaluminumcansfromthedump sorted It could makemoney reaisaweek aboutU S without staying thedumpfull InJanuary Iwentintot heMuribecadumpforalast Manyofthekids Ihadgottentoknowonmyother visits there The mother eight pacifier daughter likedcomingto thedumptoworkandgotupset havingto stayhome However themotherwastrying abidebytherules andsaidthatsheknew itwasbetter thatway Though children I weren there other familieswithotherchildrenhavetakentheirplace Fatima claimed thatthemothersheardaboutthe bolsa escolaand wereflockingtogettheirownmoney Ibelievethemo islesssinisterbutjustassad thatthere isnolackof families forwhompicking trash stepup Until nextmonth The bolsa escola school stipend generally refers governmentalProgramfor Eradication ofChildLabor PETI Started families significant areas child labor sugarcane cutting charcoal production R U S month child three children seven years About bolsas distributed nationallyrightnow asmallamount giventhatanestimated4millionchildrendonotattendschoolbecausetheyneedto However according Fabio Moraes Recife office UNICEF R U S monthly botsas famiuliesofMuribecaarereceivingarenotpartofPETI Rather theseare bolsas CidadgoBancdrio CitizenBank organizedby theNGO Missgo Crianfa ChildMission which alongwithUNICEF raisesprivatemoney offerthese bolsas tohelpend child labor Brazil In June UNICEF National Forum Trash Citizenship launched nationwide Children Garbage Never Again campaign which putting pressure national state municipal govern ments implement change eradicate nationalproblembefore Institute ofCurrentWorld Affairs Sao Paulo Sao Paulo A abandonados abandoned Alagoas alcoholism Alto Jos Pinho Summit Joseph Pines Andrad Selma Aruajo Maria B Bahia Banhado Batista Cfcero Romano beata Beberibe River begging Bezerra Mello Almeri bloco frevo Boa Viagem bolsa escola BR highway Brazilian Banana Party Busca Ativa Cabral Pedro Paulista Camarajibe Olinda R PERNAMBUC Muribeca Cabral Pedro Alvarez cachaa sugar cafezinho caldinho light broth beans shrimp chicken Candelaria murders Candombl Canudos Canudos rebellion Capibaribe River Capim Cheiro Fragrant Grass capoeira Carnaval Carnival CearA Centro Educacional Vida Nova New Life Educational Center Centro Interuniversitario Estudos America Latina AfricaeAsia CIELA The Interuniversity Center Latin America Africa Asia cheira sniffer child labor Churc Our Lady Candelaria Coelhos Cabo Comando Vermelho Red Command Conselheiros Antonio Copacabana Corinthians credit crime Cruzeiros currency policy addiction drugs E economic conditions trends embolada improvised musical poetry using guitar Encruzilhada Engenho Muribeca Muribeca sugar Espinheiros F FacesdoSuburbio Faces ofthe Suburb favela