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6/20/1967 - The Road to Murmansk by William G. Mattox

INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS WGM I9 Akandevej The Road Murmansk Lille Vmrlose Denmark June Mr Richard H Nolte Institute Current World Affairs Madison Avenue New York New York 10017 Dear Dick In weeks I heading North Norway Svalbard Spitsbergen northern North Atlantic In September I brief visit Svalbard together Dartmouth colleague Don Charles Foote Our occasion against advice Norway We almost spent winter Svalbard storm which delayed boatrs return North Norway enabling aboard before winter closed connections south I hhink performance repeated I chosen softer means tourist which makes eleven round trips during summer between Norway Svalbard northern archipelago which Norway overeignty After return Tromso North Norway I visit Kirkenes Norway northeast possibly Murmansk Kirkenes Soviet Union If getting there itself should happening Before getting there I series laughs frustrations comic opera level The North Norway Svalbard junket rather straightforward One complica however I would visit Russian mines operating Svalbard tourist there The Russian mines located complex Norwegian mines But tourist schedule tight allows stops hours place Nor local transport possi bilities promising To supply about exhausted Svalbard writing If tanker arrive fresh supplies sailing around Sv albard The presence Russians Svalbard allowed Treaty really interesting reasons visiting islands Because foiled attempt visit Soviet I shall harder succeed The tourist M S Skule formerly Soroy stops Longyearbyen hours before sailing northernmost reaches Svalbard arctic north I quick reconnoiter transport possibilities during Then Longyearbyen three later I shall small around fjord Russians expected leave Norway following If looks promising I shall chances Of course I scheduled hours Longyearbyen order Norwegian operation there additional reason finishing Skule All quite I written Ar kugol Russian Arctic Coal Mining Trust Moscow informhem I contact Norwegian authorities On return Norway I visit Kirkenes shipping nearby fields Kirkenes Norwegian Russian border Farther Soviet Murmansk fishing Russia headquarters scientific investigations northern North Atlantic The visiting lurmansk suggested Trevor Lloyd while enjoyed lunch other country Copenhagen The Professor LloydWs Murraansk earlier I fascinated process getting there obvious value visiting northern After talking Trevor Lloyd I looked matter getting Murmansko I never Soviet Union therefore method approach except Lloyd course gaining entry other necessary items I prerequisite Step One approaching travel agent My Svalbard arrangers seemed logical choice Soviet trips They pointed across Rdhusplads Danish headquarters Intourist official Soviet travel agency through which visitors funneled The Intourist office useless except providing travel brochure urmansk In three languages brochure challenged Interested Soviet North Be contact INTOURIST Murmansk I assured Intourist representative I indeed interested Soviet North I moment contacting Murmansk The answer there equivalent OK buddy press thing I should point brochure Danish heading translates Are interested Soviet North INTOURIST arrange Murmansk And Swedish stated Are interested Soviet North INTOURIST travel lurmansk I quickly sensed which stream flowing world further energy expenditure hasty retreat think matter through chilled Tub0rg Danish pilsner often source great inspiration In wisdom printed paper sticker around Tuborg flask stated Norway common border Soviet Union kilometers Of course whole thing crystal clear I would approach Norwegian traveI agent about proposed obviously versed Norway USStt travel procedure But first I would sensible enough visit Soviet consulate Copenhagen questions I would ventually issued there The Soviet Consulate around corner American Embassy I trouble finding A large plaque stated Consulate Well until I devoting systems challenge Next I Russian Consulate A friendly sympathetic gentIeman ushered great living comfortable I stated mission I interested Soviet North I wanted visit lurmansk He would problem I should visit certain Wilson Travel Bureau which secialized trips Soviet Union eight authorized agents Intourist Denmark After sharing pleasant friendly Russian consul children Derauark years found expensive difficulties finding place liked Denmark I leave attacked ilson Travel Bureau I attack directly because minutes place But I things definitely upswing Wilson Co young price arranges Russian tours Soren Nielsen offered chair cigar coffee while completed pressing matters I settled chair I enough smoke Danish offices having breathe minutes heart matter I announced opener I would visit Murmansk North Norway It impossible announced Soren Nielsen associates This I learned typical Danish response I countered I friend there implying rather dishonestly North Norway Intourist Murmansk crying visitors which Yell first encounter results other sugges I Norwegian travel agent Tuborg really around Nielsen matter course Intouris They nothing reply fully anticipated I decided Nielsen copies urmansk brochure peaceful suburb Lille Varlose north L Novy SVALBARD WGM E5 Svalbard agency office Oslo I request phone reply following letter which stated We investigations through Soviet Embassy Oslo through ministry foreign affairs through Norwegian State foreign office sorry inform individual tourists cross boarder between Norway U S S R points Ve suggest Kirkenes through Finland Rovaniemi further Helsinki whole cross boarder going Helsinki Leningrad Yours faithfully They might added Leningrad Murmansk hours This state things Soren Nielsen I before price Wilson Co telex Intourist Moscow received positive answer transportation rates Kirkenes Norway Nikel USSR private Nikel Murmansk return train hotel rates Intouris hotel 4urmansko Come Sren Nielsen arrange I again inner Copenhagen minutes eventually spawning parking ticket bread butter making final arrangements Murmansk By I about beaten humility after involved business leading putting everything counter I little heart Nielsen I unable definite dazes I could border In naive thinking I assumed I could tentative arrangements visit lurmansk things their course Oh I exact I could proceed Kirkenes Nikel Nikel train Murmansk To produce vouchers hotel reservation Murmansk A could issued prior following reserva tions leeway convenience travelers Ah therein stickiest wickets For remember I jumping Svalbard chance getting local Russian mines catch North Norway To final dates Murmansk stated order hotel reservations vouchers thereunto And reserve You In I carried sanguine planning extreme guessed suitable dates arrangements follow In following I Russian consul times agreed leeway The final provided friend Sren Nielsen yesterday informed Intourist Moscow decided Mr Mattox allowed Murmansk rather Mr attox shall Murmansk July period telex So there where situation stands But I suppose I consolation travel agent couldn visit Murmansk except Interested Soviet North Be contact INTOURIST arrange Murmansk I further other advice authorized Intou agents I received about visiting Murmansk Suffice Murmansk rocky Had I written about would climax doubtol0red vivid impressions Svalbard biurmansk I found I I seasoned travelers ICWA family pretty stuff compared recent Aiddle East experiences But Middle East Middle North newsletter I addressing Dick temptation ramble insuppressible Your successor Dennison Rusinow seasoned world getting blast impressions Svalbard beyond Sincerely Wo G Matox Received New York July I andstart SASsoweCouMdo these Polar trips comfort